Kx250 1994 clutch issue 😡😡

[Murch1995]

Hello guys I’m new to this forum, I’m in need of some help regarding my kx250 1994 clutch, I bought the bike and I had a quick ride around and I noticed it would creep in gear and was showing the symptoms of clutch wear so I replaced the clutch plates (which wear worn out )  and new gear oil etc, In the process of clutch replacement I checked the basket which was okay no grooves if I looked closely there was a very slight groove shown but not even enough for the plates to be stuck it was just showing signs of contact. So with the clutch plates replaced and basket okay I checked the push rod and all seems okay bearing is okay no play or wear. I then attempted to adjust the clutch once all back together and at the perch it seemed to run out of adjustment for example seemed like the cable was to short however I then noticed the cable was old and beginning to fray. So I replaced the cable for a new one correct for the bike but still can’t adjust the clutch. I attempted to test the clutch as it stands  so started it up and instantly stalled when I went to select 1st gear. Firstly does anyone know the solution?, secondly will a racing clutch lever and perch rectify the issue for example pro circuit or works or any suggestions of manufacture ? , thirdly is a new cable meant to be easy to pull in as it’s effortless?? , finally where does the clutch actuator arm need to be positioned?? Many apologise for the long essay but I just want the problem solved! Cheers guys!!

[KXDINO]

Sounds like you might have put a part in wrong , only reason i say this as a example a 99-00 kx125 have alignment marks on clutch hub and pressure plate ,there for a reason, so check that out , i know someone who did the same with a 19 yz250f , if not sure get a work shop manual.

[Murch1995]

KXDINO, I’ve inspected  and I can’t see any alignment marks??  A image would help if you could access one many thanks and would the clutch still operate correctly with standard perch I was thinking of replacing it fir a pro circuit or something similar.

[KXDINO]

With the clutch cover off , does the clutch plates move when you pull the lever in ?

[Murch1995]

Hello kxdino I’ve had the clutch cover off but not had the cable in the perch but would of thought pilling the cable is the same as pulling the leaver in however I have pulled the cable and watched the travel of the clutch pack and it moves about 1 to 2 mm and it’s got new plates fitted so can’t emagine the movement being to much seems okay at present put just seems to be when I adjust the cable at the perch I have no clutch and the actuator arm is pulled forward slightly rather than being straight it’s got to be a a very very small fault as all seems okay when cable pulled but I’m unsure 1to 2 mmm is enough to fully release the clutch ,my  oil is new also and plates don’t apppear to be sticking, real weird one but any other ideas? Thanks

[motorman455]

Have your tried adjusting the in-line cable adjuster usually 6" from the handle bar lever end of the cable? If the lever adjuster maxes out, you can get extra adjustment there. If it works,  turn the clutch lever adjuster in half way and adjust the inline from there so you can have adjustment at the lever when needed.

[motorman455]

Sometimes there is a washer required between the pushrod end and hub pressure plate. Without it, it will make for more travel required and also make the lower lever arm rotated more than it should be.

[Murch1995]

Motorman455 , I have tried various adjustments but if I understand your explanation correctly, your saying fit cable adjust the adjuster on the cable if it runs out of adjustment at the perch ? And the perch adjuster should be half way in the bracket? As mentioned I’ve fitted new clutch plates and a new cable, I got a brief clutch with one adjustment but the cable seems really smooth ,  of course new cables must make it lighter but this seems like there is no resistance at all , with the clutch case off I can see the push rod and bearing moving and clutch appears to be disengaging but do you have any idea how much the clutch has to disengage? Obviously thicker new plates are fitted so I’m thinking they may need more movement to ensure they are fully disengaged ? The basket is very slightly  rough but I’m only talking a slight marking due to the contact point, I might just file them to ensure that possible fault is eliminated. As you mentioned a washer , would that sit on the bearing? Meaning it realistically is extended the push rod right?  My only concern is wouldn’t the washer fall into the engine / clutch basket once you release the clutch ?? Also i can’t  imagine it’s my oil as it’s new,
Other than the obvious I’m completely stuck!! I really apologise for going on and on and boring you to tears but it’s really bugging me and I need as much help as I can get , I’m so great full, thanks again, Lee.

[motorman455]

I only mention the washer if there is supposed to be one stock. The clutch pack doesn't need to move much to disengage. 1-2mm sounds fine. If you have all the plates out, measure the overall thickness of all of them (ie the pack) stacked together. The service manual should have a spec for overall thickness. That ensures you have all of the correct thickness plates.  Too thick overall and that would indicate a problem. As for the cable, I would screw the clutch lever adjust almost all the way in and then adjust the inline cable adjustment out until all the freeplay is gone. That should get you in the ballpark and then you can make adjustments back at the lever. This assumes you have the inline adjustment in the cable. I would try this first as its easy.

[Murch1995]

Motorman, I’m hoping to get time at the weekend and I’m going to impeach the basket very very slight grooving and file it just to eliminate that, then I will measure the plates they are all new so I can’t imagine a issue but it’s worth a check, that’s correct the cable had a online adjuster around 6” roughly from the perch I will try to adjust the cable following your guide lines and I will test from there , while the clutch cover is first taken off I will ensure no plates are stuck together but I’m certain they won’t be but once again best to check rather than ignore, and regarding the cable considering the cable is new is it meant to be light and no resistance or not? As it’s easy to pull in and I also noticed the actuator arm doesn’t seem spring back very fast it goes back to a rest position but then I can push it back further almost like the the cable is to slack would I be right in thinking that it’s to slack? Thank you so much once again I will sort it very soon hopfulky! Many thanks lee.

[Murch1995]

And also the original parts diagram shows a washer behind the push rod bearing so I will check to see if that is missing could be something stupid like that perhaps thanks again

[motorman455]

Yup there ya go. If you're missing that,  your symptoms would be as described with running out of travel and actuator arm over rotated in it's normal state.

[Murch1995]

Motorman 455 I will try the mentioned tasks to eliminate the fault but defiantly check the washer as I do t think I noticed one when I removed it but we will see I will report back once I’ve investigated, thanks again your a huge help , Lee

[Murch1995]

Motorman 455, I’ve drained oil and removed clutch cover, and clutch pressure plate and I noticed the plates stuck together but they are all new?? And new oil anything I can do to prevent it? I inspected the basket and that’s okay, the push rod however has just the rod and bearing , , I have noticed a mark on the inside of the pressure plate and the front of the basket can only be described as a circle with a line through it would these be the Marks  previously mentioned to need to be lined up?? Might be cool insistent?l or are these actually marks that need to line up ? 

[motorman455]

Clutch plates will stick together once the have oil on them.  That's normal.  As for the Mark's, I don't think those are for alignment. I never heard of needing to align the pressure plate. Are you able to measure the overall clutch plate pack thickness accurately to the nearest. 001"? Also, according to the parts diagram, there should be a .8mm thick washer on the pushrod to the inside of the thrust bearing.