Maintenance & Technical > KX250 / KX125
Clutch pull question
don46:
The easy pull does the same thing as adding to the clutch arm, inside the triangular box is another arm when adjusted it changes the leverage ratio. If it was me, I would put a new cable and get a h**da clutch assembly, as the ration is different. A 250 shouldn't be that hard to pull, I use 500 springs in mine and it isn't that hard to pull.
Incidentally when referring to cutting the clutch arm, it's not the lever but the arm that goes into the bottom end. I've done it to my 500's, it makes a huge diofference.
The Flyin Hawaiian:
I misunderstood the question, I didnt know that moose was carrying the easy clutch now. If Im thinking right, its that triangular shaped device that hooks up to your stock cable right at the perch. I did try one out but I forgot what bike it was on. I didnt like it because it made my cable bunch up at the top too much and didnt seem to make much differance. I run my bars pretty narrow and also have my crossbar filled with enduro computers, ICO odometer and a roll chart holder. The cable would interfere too much with all this stuff I had on the bars. I raced a 90 KX 250 and did not notice a heavy clutch pull. I would lube the cable or replace it. Check your basket and inner hub, you also might want to look at the where the clutch arm goes into the case. The bearing could be worn as well as the arm itself where it rides on the bearing. My girlfriend used to run a Magura hydraulic clutch on her old 00 cr 250. It was ok at first, then the slave cylinder started leaking. We took it off and switched back to a cable. Its much more reliable in my opinion. I also ran a HEBO hydraulic clutch on my old YZ 426 with the same results. I eventually switched it back to a cable.
Alpinestars2785:
OK, so i decided to change the clutch cable out for the new one I had. While I had it off I took out the clutch arm and took a look at the bearing and arm. The bearing seemed to be fine but i did notice that the arm seemed to be worn where it rides on the bearing. I'm guessing that could be part of the problem. So I guess I'll order a new clutch arm and see if that helps because all the other parts seem to be in working order. I got to wondering as I was looking today, how exactly do you remove that bearing for the clutch arm anyway??? I've decided to not buy the Moose product because I think it'll just get in the way mostly. I've also decided to not get a hydraulic clutch too, not worth the investment, I can spend that money else where on the bike.
Jeeks:
The levers and modifications stated above are merely "band-aids". Your clutch lever should feel the same as any other bike. Find the problem and fix it. Otherwise, you will be wasting your time and money.
FuriouSly:
--- Quote ---The clutch pull on my 1990 KX 250 is extremely stiff and tough to pull in compared to other models. I recently (within the last 6-8 months) replaced the clutch basket and kit and it's still just as hard as ever. Alpinestars2785
--- End quote ---
When you changed the kit, what springs/combo did you use? 3 Stock and 3 medium? 3 Stock and 3 heavy? 3 medium and 3 heavy? All six heavy?? Of course the clutch cable needs to be new or in perfect working order to diagnose this issue. Personally, my KX5 has the ASV C5 pro perch and shorty lever... the bomb. Smooth as silk action with break resistent lever design. I can clutch every gear up and down with 2 fingers. I am pretty sure my clutch is set 3 stock and 3 heavy on the springs and I run H**da 85/90w tranny oil.
I agree with alot of the others that the oil you use in the tranny makes a big difference with clutch pull... how you ask? Well, if you have a slipping clutch under torque, alot of people stiffin up the clutch springs... hence harder clutch pull. Thought I would mention this.
Sly
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