Maintenance & Technical > KX250 / KX125

Kx250 1994 clutch issue 😡😡

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motorman455:
Have your tried adjusting the in-line cable adjuster usually 6" from the handle bar lever end of the cable? If the lever adjuster maxes out, you can get extra adjustment there. If it works,  turn the clutch lever adjuster in half way and adjust the inline from there so you can have adjustment at the lever when needed.

motorman455:
Sometimes there is a washer required between the pushrod end and hub pressure plate. Without it, it will make for more travel required and also make the lower lever arm rotated more than it should be.

Murch1995:
Motorman455 , I have tried various adjustments but if I understand your explanation correctly, your saying fit cable adjust the adjuster on the cable if it runs out of adjustment at the perch ? And the perch adjuster should be half way in the bracket? As mentioned I’ve fitted new clutch plates and a new cable, I got a brief clutch with one adjustment but the cable seems really smooth ,  of course new cables must make it lighter but this seems like there is no resistance at all , with the clutch case off I can see the push rod and bearing moving and clutch appears to be disengaging but do you have any idea how much the clutch has to disengage? Obviously thicker new plates are fitted so I’m thinking they may need more movement to ensure they are fully disengaged ? The basket is very slightly  rough but I’m only talking a slight marking due to the contact point, I might just file them to ensure that possible fault is eliminated. As you mentioned a washer , would that sit on the bearing? Meaning it realistically is extended the push rod right?  My only concern is wouldn’t the washer fall into the engine / clutch basket once you release the clutch ?? Also i can’t  imagine it’s my oil as it’s new,
Other than the obvious I’m completely stuck!! I really apologise for going on and on and boring you to tears but it’s really bugging me and I need as much help as I can get , I’m so great full, thanks again, Lee.

motorman455:
I only mention the washer if there is supposed to be one stock. The clutch pack doesn't need to move much to disengage. 1-2mm sounds fine. If you have all the plates out, measure the overall thickness of all of them (ie the pack) stacked together. The service manual should have a spec for overall thickness. That ensures you have all of the correct thickness plates.  Too thick overall and that would indicate a problem. As for the cable, I would screw the clutch lever adjust almost all the way in and then adjust the inline cable adjustment out until all the freeplay is gone. That should get you in the ballpark and then you can make adjustments back at the lever. This assumes you have the inline adjustment in the cable. I would try this first as its easy.

Murch1995:
Motorman, I’m hoping to get time at the weekend and I’m going to impeach the basket very very slight grooving and file it just to eliminate that, then I will measure the plates they are all new so I can’t imagine a issue but it’s worth a check, that’s correct the cable had a online adjuster around 6” roughly from the perch I will try to adjust the cable following your guide lines and I will test from there , while the clutch cover is first taken off I will ensure no plates are stuck together but I’m certain they won’t be but once again best to check rather than ignore, and regarding the cable considering the cable is new is it meant to be light and no resistance or not? As it’s easy to pull in and I also noticed the actuator arm doesn’t seem spring back very fast it goes back to a rest position but then I can push it back further almost like the the cable is to slack would I be right in thinking that it’s to slack? Thank you so much once again I will sort it very soon hopfulky! Many thanks lee.

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