Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original

Renthal Front Sprocket

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dmazz71:
Hi All,

Is anyone using a Renthal front sprocket (14T) on the (03) 500?  It seems a lot of people are running the stock Kawasaki front sprocket, so it makes my curious as to why.  The Renthal seems to fit great with a tight fit, but I don?t want to run this sprocket if it will cause any issues.

Thanks

meangreen:
I ran a 14T Renthal with no issues.  I ran it with a RK x-ring chain and didn't have any clearance issues either.  My Renthal rear sprocket (47T), on the other hand, I thought wore out a bit prematurely.

MG

Hillclimb#42:
All Renthal Sprockets are great sprockets. They would be my preference for sure. They not only perform well, but look good too. All front sprockets are steel and should wear about the same, brand to brand, as long as they are ran with a good chain. Stretched and worn chains will chew up any sprocket. The renthal rear sprockets are Aluminum. Made well, look nice, but will wear out faster than steel sprockets. JT Steel brand sprockets are a cheaper alternative to the Renthal Aluminum. The pros and cons really are mostly weight related. A steel sprocket is designed to last, an aluminum is designed for all-out weight reduction (with color).  8-)
  Was that the x-ring that has no master link? I was not a fan of flaring the chain rivots...

meangreen:
I run the pressed master link with the standard outer clip - it has always worked for me, I have run lots of them.

What I meant by premature wear was an apples to apples comparison between the wear of a Renthal and a similar aluminum sprocket such as Sprocket Specialties or PBI.  The dirt cleaning grooves on the Renthal effectively reduce the surface area of the "saddle" that the chain roller will sit in on the gear tooth profile.  The SS and PBI parts have no grooves and maintain the full width of the sprocket throughout the gear tooth profile.  They normally run another 25% longer for me.  I still have a PBI on my KX as a matter of fact.

MG

Hillclimb#42:
Yeah, me too. I like the standard master link. I got an x-ring and it was called a continuous chain, where you had to flare the rivot like a street bike chain, so there was no master at all. Would have saved some time for me to understand it, before I got it. I thought that I lost the master link clip, and went through the trash before reading the instructions, :lol:

 I guess that I switch gearing enough to save on wear. I play ride the 250, and usually run steel on the back. I just think alot of it is from a chain for me. Keeping it new and with the right slack, is important. If its muddy, the chain will tighten way up, and some chains just stretch more than others. I had a new DID chain once that was crap from the box. It was not syncronized for about 12" of the new chain.

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