Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Front end likes to "wash out".....
Paul:
ShanMan, you are exactly right on your assumption
woodsy:
Thanks you guys!
All the advice was/is greatly appreciated! I will keep you all informed as I progress!
Woodsy
NVR-FNSH:
Shanman,
If you raise the forks in the clamp (more tube sticking out above the TC) you 'effectively' quicken the steering by making the head tube closer to vertical. You also chage the weight split - adding more weight to the front. You will need to adjust your rear sag when you raise the fork tubes.
Raising the fork tubes ~12mm made a HUGE difference on my WR400. I raised the forks on my KX ~12mm but it had been so long since I'd ridden the bike I don't have a base line. I just know I didn't have any trouble with the front end not turning.
Brian
woodsy:
Well gentlemen I had a VERY productive day, thanks in part to all of you!
I took the advice to try some things (good advice to do it one step at a time!!!).
I have not purchased springs. I thought I would try moving my forks up first - mainly cause its free (except fo time).
I started by moving them up to the bottom of the caps - very little change. I moved them up to the second line - WOW!! I spent 4 hours covering everything from tight trail to open/whooped out powerlines (looking for head shake) and it appears that you guys hit the nail on the head! The BIG MEAN GREEN MACHINE no longer feels like a school bus!!
Next move is new springs and resetting of the mono race sag (I think I will try 4 1/2 inches).
Ahhhh, life is great!
Thanks
Woodsy
Rick:
Not sure you want to move to 4 1/2 inches on the shock race sag. Several years ago, I started using Daryl at Acme to tune suspension, and have learned a great deal. Here is the process I have used for years:
- set your static sag at one inch (this is the difference between on a stand with no weight on the back tire, and off the stand with the bike weight only.
- Gear up and check the race sag. If you are 3 3/4 to 4 inches, the spring is about right for your weight/riding position. Much more, you need a heavier spring. Much less, you need a lighter spring. This is a general rule only. I have used this process when setting suspension for others, and have found some folks have had to set their static sag to 2 inches to get close to 4 inches. On the flip side, I have found static at 1/2 inch to get to 4 inches. Swap springs, and they ride much better, and with more confidence.
- A little more or less on the static sag can make a big difference. I actually run 1 1/8 static sag and have for years. However, race sag is still just under 4 inches, but I ride way forward on the bike, so my riding position unweights the rear just a bit.
Like most folks on this site at about 210 lbs, I have swapped to a 5.4 rear, and run heavier springs in the front (although I only run .43 springs. For most folks, the heavier springs are going to be the ticket).
If you think about it, by lowering your race sag in the rear, you are giving up some of the effective travel, which may result in more bottoming of the rear shock. Something you might want to consider in your tuning process.
Good luck
Rick
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