Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Front end likes to "wash out".....
woodsy:
Rick:
Thanks again for ALL the help! I had the 5 out all day today (included some the of narliest, root infested stuff around). Put another 120 miles on her and only had one slight flaw the whole day. Believe it or not, I actually had an understeer stituation on a real tight bermed corner! It almost felt good (just knowing that it will now understeer!).
I am know going ride it for while (while saving my coins for those new springs).
I left my race sag alone and probably will for the time being. When I set it up (when I first bought it) the stock rear spring came out at just under 4" with 1" static. I have now got 4 and 1/16 so it looks pretty good! Setting the sag on this bike is easy to get at (I have been removing the sub frame/air box - is that how you do yours?) but kind of a hassle to do alone - like I always end up doing :) I will probably follow your advice and leave it where its at!
Anyway, thanks again!
Scott
mikesmith:
Have you thought of trying Pro Circuit pull rods?They keep straight line stability,but quicken the steering.
Rick:
On the pull rods, I have thought of using them in the past, but never wanted to lay down the coin. I know Destry uses them, and I talked with him a little about the attributes. I will probably install a set at some point.
On the rear sag adjustment, the correct method is to remove the rear sub frame and use the special wrenches to turn the sring adjustment nuts. Too much work, and I want to get on the trail. I switched to using a long punch, on which I ground an angle to better bite the tabs on the nuts. It works much better than the ol' screw driver, as the flat surface ground to an angle does not mangle the tabs. I also use a black permenant marker to mark one of the tabs before I start any adjustments. I note the position of the marked tab, and can then count the rotations. If I adjust too much, I know how many turns I adjusted, and can adjust the opposite direction about 1/2 way. If I adjusted backwards too much, I split the amount in half again, and adjust in the original direction. With this method, it is easy to dial in your spring because you always know how many rotations (or partial rotations) have been taken. After the initial adjustment, it is simply backwards or forwards in smaller and smaller increments until you achieve the desired sag.
Have fun.
Rick
NVR-FNSH:
On my WR400 I can turn the entire spring to adjust preload. Just use a punch to loosen the locking ring (upper one) and back it off, then turn the spring and the adjuster nut comes along for the ride. Haven't tried this on the KX yet.
Brian
ShanMan:
Turning the spring is exactly how I did it on my KX5...FYI. :D
<edit> subframe off BTW.
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