clutch wont disengage

[stig]

Just acquired a KX125 1991 H2 model that needed work.

from the start....

kick start splines knackered so removed outer casing to access gear. Had to remove clutch basket to do this. Dont know if clutch was OK before tearing it down so cant say if it was OK or not. I kept the whole clutch basket assembled, undone the centre main nut and slid the whole lot off the spline, swapped over the kick gear and reassembled the whole cluch in one onto its spline, tightened the centre nut, spings with cover plate centre pin and bearing carrier? before installing the outer case & adjusting cable

Issue is...clutch wont disengage

Q1, according to the manual parts diagram there might be a washer between the bearing carrier and centre pin...theres not on this bike..is it missing or is there not supposed to be one

I've tried rotating the clutch arm to the max with grips...still doesnt disengege

Does anyone have a picture of the clutch when assembled so i know how it SHOULD look

any help appreciated

Thanks
Paul

[stig]

I cant believe with 2500+ members i've not had a single response...theres more chance of a reply in the local morgue 

[sandblaster]

Hi Paul.
The dead have arisen... sorta...
The problem is most guys aren't taking pics of stuff as they are disassembling it.
It simply ads time to what they are trying to do.
I'll see if I have some pics of the parts you are looking for.
They will be disassembled but may help you see what may or may not be missing.

[sandblaster]

Ok, I had a better pic then I thought but it is disassembled.
You might check it out and see if anything you have is missing.

[stig]

Thanks...seems I have all the correct pieces

order of install goes like so..

washer already on shaft against bearing
2 no roller bearings on inner sleeve
outer basket
washer
inner spring carrier
clutch plates/steels (fibre first and last)
outer hub
nut
springs
spring cover
bolts
thrust bearing carrier
centre pin

all tightened to specs, case replaced, cable hooed up at approx 90 degrees to arm

Pull clutch lever in, everything moves but clutch doesnt disengage  . It'll change gear OK and wheel rotates in neutral

am I missing something. Assembled this several times but no change

My lad says that it worked when he first got the bike as thats how he found out the engine was blowing water out the exhaust (after top half strip, later found the O ring missing between the main casing and the right hand side cover...probably letting water into the bottom end and then bypassing the transfers to be blown out the exhaust)

[sandblaster]

So... you move the lever and you can see everything moving in the clutch... Do the plates separate?

[stig]

not quite sure how to check this when its all reassembled (so the arm works)

With the casing off and springs out, the plates slide back and forth OK

There were some grooves on the main basket so i've cleaned them up after ready posts across the web. Being as it worked before and i've not changed anything its got me stumped.......

[sandblaster]

How many metal and fiber plates do you have?
Also, do you have a pic of the basket ears?

[stig]

i'll have to take pics tomorrow, camera battery flat. Also casing on at present so need to disassemble AGAIN        LOL

[motopunk]

make sure that basket and hub of the clutch are free rotating against if you installed it without pressure plate and clutch plates...

i had this problem on my old k5 engine: assembled the engine like it was as i disassembled it. couldnt do the first ride, cause the clutch dont worked and engine died! i threw the bike on the left side and again to the clutch...
i found out this: the bushing of the long needle bearing that makes the space between basket and hub was simply a little bit to short ! and so the basket was not able to rotate free when pulling the clutch lever and the plates were also disengaged i made a 1mm spacer with the inner and outer diameter of this bushing and the problem was gone... 

i think you should take a look at this... 

[stig]

make sure that basket and hub of the clutch are free rotating against if you installed it without pressure plate and clutch plates...

i had this problem on my old k5 engine: assembled the engine like it was as i disassembled it. couldnt do the first ride, cause the clutch dont worked and engine died! i threw the bike on the left side and again to the clutch...
i found out this: the bushing of the long needle bearing that makes the space between basket and hub was simply a little bit to short ! and so the basket was not able to rotate free when pulling the clutch lever and the plates were also disengaged i made a 1mm spacer with the inner and outer diameter of this bushing and the problem was gone... 

i think you should take a look at this... 

Without checking til I get home from work later I think youre onto something there. It sounds exactly right. Where on the parts diagram did you install the spacer?

much appreciated! 

[motopunk]

i installed the spacer first on the shaft before istalling the bushing bearing and the whole clutch assembly ... i hope i could help solving your problem... 

[stig]

i installed the spacer first on the shaft before istalling the bushing bearing and the whole clutch assembly ... i hope i could help solving your problem... 

YOU SIR ARE A STAR!...clutch sorted with spacer and a bit of adjustment on the cable. Cant understand why it worked before disassembly and not afterwards 

Just need to get the d**n thing to start now!. Got compression, fuel (wet plug) and a good spark but will it fire...will it F@*k...even tried bumping it til i'm about to keel over 

[KevinTwoStk]

Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?

[sandblaster]

Dirty carb? Clogged choke or clogged pilot jet? Old premix in the tank? Clogged air filter? Is the air filter in good shape?

Are you sure your on the right thread?