KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: Narkotik666 on June 28, 2010, 09:04:37 PM
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Okay, so this topic was touched on in a previous thread....so i thought, t'd start a new one.
first off...i ride a 2005 KX250 2T (that i am setting up for trails....)
The Clutch pull is "fine"....but after about an hour of riding....i can't hold on to the bar, let alone pull the clutch.
the problem is, the motor is VERY "ON/OFF"...and i HAVE to ride with the Clutch to control it......i will add a flywheel to help with that...
but i was wondering, what adjustments can i do on the clutch....if i can make it lighter or less "pull distace" it would be great.
but, i don't have a manual....and i would just like to know, what i can adjust on the clutch housing.....like the big dial and and and?
what are they there for? what do they do, and what is possible on the STOCK Clutch housing of the KX, adjustment wise?
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firstly, you can get a msv raptor clutch perch and lever, supposedly a 325% improvement over stock.also, u can extend the clutch actuating arm by 7mm, which improves the leverage.however, if you havent cleaned and lubed and checked the routing of your cable to make sure there are no tight curves in the cable, its possible to get a good improvement for free.alkso check clutch basket for grooving as this increases the friction involved.hth.
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Sounds like you are running stock gear ratio. If I am right, try a 13 countershaft. That should save some clutching. Could also be a needle adjustment. If you are a step too rich it will have a flat spot in acceleration before it comes on the pipe.
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hmmm.....325% improvement isn't something to scoff at....i like that idea...and it's reasonably cheap. considering that my clutch perch is rather knacked....hangs like a drunken giraffe.....with tourettes.But a washer will fix that.....okay...thanks for the info....really wanted to know how much i can change, without replacing the ACTUAL clutch.....so, i guess 325% improvement from just the clutch perch is plenty! thanks. apparently the Stock CR perches are also really good. are they?
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I had the Raptor and didnt like it. It has 3 cable holes and none of them felt right, it was easier but I just couldnt get used to the engagement/disengagement points. The lever that I mentioned in the other post of yours felt alot better. Not only in the ease of pull but also in the actuation points. Also, you will become a better rider by using the clutch to control the power delivery, this is something that I noticed that alot of people cant or dont do and get themselves into trouble.
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hmmm.....325% improvement isn't something to scoff at....i like that idea...and it's reasonably cheap. considering that my clutch perch is rather knacked....hangs like a drunken giraffe.....with tourettes.But a washer will fix that.....okay...thanks for the info....really wanted to know how much i can change, without replacing the ACTUAL clutch.....so, i guess 325% improvement from just the clutch perch is plenty! thanks. apparently the Stock CR perches are also really good. are they?
As I mentioned before the Raptor is very easy to pull, but runs a fatter lever. And as far as the CR perches and levers, that is my personal preference. What's the best choice? Whatever works best for you and makes you more comfortable.
BTW, you can make your own easy pull lever by drilling an extra hole in a stock lever.
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Hmmmm. Drilling a hole in the stock lever....sounds cheapest....everything in SA is crazy expensive...since everythings inmported. so, modding stock is best.
Last nite, i adjusted the "free play"....took it ALL away....so, i can pull the lever in all the way....and still have space to hold on te the grip....so, not crushing my finger the whole time....i am gonna try this setup....have it wound REAAAALLY tight....maybe it'll work a bit better....i am gonna ride this weekend, and i will try my friends STOCK CR250...if it "feels" beter..
Quick Question......i assume that the dial on the perch is just there to adjust free play on the cable....i cant DAMAGE the clutch by dialing it in ALL THE WAy....the lever is really tight now....and it engages at the TOP of the pull.......took out some smoothness i guess, cut it won't crush my finger....I cant pull it all the way to the grip.......and less pulling action....meanse less strain, well, in my head i guess...i will try it.....might POP a few accidental wheelies.....(i be honest, all my wheelies are accidental....)
but this cant damage the perch/clutch.....if its wound TOO tight?
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No, it won't damage your perch but it will damage your clutch for sure. You can't beat using your owners manual. If you don't have one, find one or find one on line. The owners manual is the best way to keep up on the minor adjustments. The bike companies want your bike to last long enough to make you feel that you got your moneys worth. They want you to by another bike from them. If your are going to do major mechanical work then you need the bikes bible---"The Shop Manual". I have both for every bike I own. I even found a reprint for my 1976 KT250. There are many things about the KT250 I have never had on any other bike. For example the automatic chain oilier.
If you take out the cable play your clutch will be on the edge of disengagement. It won't fully engage. It will lead to clutch slippage and premature clutch wear. You need at least 1/8 inch of free play. When you lightly touch the lever it should open the distance of the thickness of a coin. Here in the states the thickness of a nickel or a quarter.
I use C/5 Series Pro Model Shorty front brake lever and clutch perch with hot start. You need the Shorty's if you run hand guards. They are not cheap ($155 for the clutch perch w/hot start) but they sure work well and if you bend one they will replace it when you return it to them. They are adjustable to fit your hand length. I've ordered set's for 3 bikes and ASV runs 3 weeks to a month behind on orders. So keep your original levers. It took a month to get the new front brake lever I bent back from them. I just used the old lever so I could still ride the bike.
http://asvinventions.com/Unbreakable-Levers/
Larry is developing a remote compression release that utilizes the hot start lever.
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okay, Thanks danger....i'll loosen the thing up a bit tonite...
you're setup is wiiicked.....me likey.
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As Danger said, no free play equals mullered clutch.The play allows expansion in the clutch plates when they get hot. The CR lever and perch are a cheap alternative to an asv, and are a widely approved mod in Kwakland.
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I run a 08 CR500 front brake master cylinder.
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This is the lever I use. I cut the ball end off and file it round.
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Here's something to try. how old is your cable and when's the last time you lubed it also is your lever pivot worn. It probably worked good when it was new. for me i like stock length levers
good luck JM
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A lot of people just go ahead and put a new cable on and run it dry. U should lube your cable when it brand new. You should use a new lever with a bushing and a new pivot bolt. be sure to put some good high pressure grease on the lever pivot bolt. Your lever pull will be so much better. I def recomend the honda style lever. get the good lever with the brass bushing. If all this is done right your clutch will feel like it did on the show room floor.
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i am going to take a CR250 for a spin this weekend, and i will feel it a bit.....
weird coincidence...i bought the KX at a Honda Dealer......so, i can easily get a CR perch if needs be....and they are apparently really good from what i've read.
the thing is....i think my cable is pretty well lube and NEW....it FEELS normal....smooth.....no clinks or anything....it just gets a bit much after 3 hours on HARD trails....but MAYBE that's normal too...
but I would hate to blame my WEAK forearms....and just blame KX levers instead. :P
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Compared to older KX250s, the clutch pull is harder with the 05 and up models. They changed the way the clutch is activated by moving the clutch arm inside the left magneto cover as opposed to on top of the cases. This, and possibly stiffer springs from the factory, has made the pull harder. You really cant compare a CR pull because they are 2 completly differant bikes. The CR may have a easier pull but not from just the clutch lever and perch alone.
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if you decide to go for a different brand of lever, you need to measure the centre to centre distance of your kx lever, from pivot bolt centre to cable hole centre.dont know measurement off the top of my head, but say its 50mm, your replacement lever should have a shorter measurement to make the pull easier, say 44mm.the bigger the difference, the less your plates will disengage at full lever, so dont go too far.hth.
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thanks kwakman....i think i understand what you mean.....
I am an Art Director with serious ADHD and a spout of dyslexia....so, i see in pictures...and thats it...LOLOLOLOLOL...i could disarm n nuke if the instructions comes with pictures....but ask me to read the instructions of a toaster....NON COMPRENDE!
(i guess my parents werent good breeding stock, or i am just not y2k compliant)
but i think understand....
and it makes sense.....shorter....more pull...yeah.
will go do some window shopping this weekend....and maybe speak to some "experts" (yeah...right) at the shops.