KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Polar-Bus on November 12, 2009, 12:10:41 PM
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Well, been thinking of this mod for a while, and thanks to Ebay, and a few new 1999 KDX200 components, it's ready for the assembly transformation. My goal was to have a NH DOT legal KX500. I like the aftermarket kits, but they are $440+ . I purchased all the Ebay KDX lighting components and wiring harness for under $140. I had to purchase a new KDX headlamp/numberplate assembly, and this was the most expensive part at a whopping $75 ! I also purchased a new Moose KX500 lighting coil which was $69. So I came in at $284, and the best part is with KDX components, there is no need for splicing and hacking. The KX500's ignition wiring will perfectly merge with the KDX lighting harness and components. Lastly the OEM KDX headlight looks perfect on the KX500 ! I'll update this thread as progress advances.
So phase 1: Is retro'ing the KDX headlamp assembly to the KX500's triple tree. The upper brackets were a simple bolt on mod ! SWEET ! They are installed as pictured, and will work perfect for the upper mount of the headlight assembly:
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2171/710ig.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/710ig.jpg/)
Now things got more challenging. The lower bracket on the KDX's bolts to two casted standoffs on the lower triple tree. The KDX's standoffs are about 5-1/2" apart. The good news is there is two standoffs on the KX500's as well, BUT they are only 5" apart. I tried for hours to simply bend the lower bracket, but just could not make it work right. So a buddy of mine cut notches in the bracket tabs, bent them inward to 5", then tig weld filled the notches. I also had to machine flat the KX500 standoffs and tap two M6 holes to mount the lower bracket.
Here's a pic stock KX500, you can see the misalignment issue :
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/747/712t.jpg) (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/712t.jpg/)
Here's a pic of the finished mounting. The lower triple tree is machined flat, tapped, and the bracket ears are cut, and re-welded :
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6384/717a.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/717a.jpg/)
So thats it for phase one. Here's a pic of the final mod. Looks OEM SWEET !! :
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9463/718h.jpg) (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/718h.jpg/)
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4623/79197485.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/79197485.jpg/)
Next I move on to modifying the stator plate, stay tuned for phase 2.
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This mod is not going to be as bad as I thought. The great news is that the KX500 already has the necessary two M5 tapped standoffs ( I'm guessing KX500's use the older , early 90's KDX250's stator plate), and to my delight the Moose lighting coil will bolt right on. The bad news is in stock form, the inside of the flywheel hits the coil when installed. Moose does comment in the instructions that "some" KX500 stator plates will have this occurance. Moose further instructs you to remove 2mm of the surface of the standoffs to gain the necessary flywheel clearence. Other than that, all's that's needed is to carefully route the new additional yellow lighting through the stator, through the rubber grommet, and inside the wire shield. I melted an additional hole in the grommet with a hot thin steel wire, and then sprayed WD40 on the wire and slowly fed the wire up through the existing KX500's stator outer plastic shielding. It's a tight fit, and takes patients, but looks OEM, and won't be affected by the elements. Here's a pic of the stock stator with the flywheel removed:
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6166/44047145.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/44047145.jpg/)
Here's a pic of the lighting coil kit:
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8339/711ir.jpg) (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/711ir.jpg/)
You will need two M5X30 mm bolts to install the coil to the stator plate. And a pic of the lighting coil installed:
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/7671/714h.jpg) (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/714h.jpg/)
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/34/002vtq.jpg) (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/002vtq.jpg/)
Well, that's it for now. Next I move on to the tail light, and finding a home to mount the KDX voltage regulator. Stay tuned for more pics!
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very nice! I'm looking to do a similar conversion this winter. The only worry i've had was the lighting coil. How did you take off the required 2mm on the flywheel?
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haha
Thats awesome.
get rid of the 500 stickers and go sport bike hunting.
Hammer on a few hardleys too.... they like that! Haha
:mrgreen:
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very nice! I'm looking to do a similar conversion this winter. The only worry i've had was the lighting coil. How did you take off the required 2mm on the flywheel?
You don't machine the flywheel, you machine 2 mm off the face of the lighting coil mounts on the stator plate. This moves the coil away from hitting the inside of the flywheel. Thank god for a Bridgeport milling machine and a great welder, otherwise this KDX conversion would have been a lot more challenging.
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Ahh Ok thats sounds a heck of a lot easier then trying to alter the flywheel! :-D
So is this correct? Think it cant me done with a dremel? :evil: If not i suppose a trip to the machinist is in order.
*edit* prettied the picture up a bit :-D
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/drewh14/KX500/lightingcoil.jpg)
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drewh14, Nice ! Yup that's correct. You are awesome at photoshop images mods. (I suck at modding images) . Yes, i'm sure you could just grind the standoffs with a dremel tool, then clean the surface with a file to ensure flatness.
I'll have to steal some of your images, and paste them into my posts for more precise clarification of the details ! Is that ok ?
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I haven't done this, but it looks like another option for mounting the headlight is to use KLX rubber bands. It's the same plastics as KDX, but doesn't use the bolt on brackets. These bikes had the same inverted forks as a KX, so I think the headlight could just be clipped on in a matter of seconds after the original number plate is removed. I'll try this and report back next time I have a reason to pull the number plate off my KX500. Who knows if these rubber bands are still readily available though. A lot of other parts are hard to get for this bike now.
I just figured I'd throw it out there for people that don't have the ability to fabricate the lower bracket.
(http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/snoopjonnyjon/pic038.jpg)
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ahh thats a terrible picture on my part. i had about 5 min before work so it looks terrible. I'll get ya some more clear ones tonight.
Thanks for the tips.
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I haven't done this, but it looks like another option for mounting the headlight is to use KLX rubber bands. It's the same plastics as KDX, but doesn't use the bolt on brackets. These bikes had the same inverted forks as a KX, so I think the headlight could just be clipped on in a matter of seconds after the original number plate is removed. I'll try this and report back next time I have a reason to pull the number plate off my KX500. Who knows if these rubber bands are still readily available though. A lot of other parts are hard to get for this bike now.
I just figured I'd throw it out there for people that don't have the ability to fabricate the lower bracket.
I tried to purchase the rear fender off the '90-93 KDX250 to make a cleaner look when using a KDX tail light, but the fender is NLA from Kawi, dammit ! bummer. The KDX fender looks VERY similar to the KX500 too !!
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When I installed the Moose lighting coil 2mm was not enough, I dont recall the exact measurement, but I think I ended up taking off between 3 and4 MM . I think I milled off about 1MM at a time, then trial fitted it until everything cleared properly. I also used the Moose voltage stabilizer. I used the Acerbis number plate/ light because I liked the look.The Acerbis uses the rubber strap type of mounting and have given no problems for five years. Your KDX plate/ light looks good too. That threaded hole on the center of the upper triple tree, is where I mounted the voltage stabilizer.
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Phase 3, the tail light. First tip for those of you who want something DOT compliant. The stock KDX tail light only has 2 wires which is a running light only. A neat swap trick I learned is that 2001 and up Yamaha WR250/450 uses basically the exact same light assembly, however the WR's use a 3 wire, running AND brake light. Heres a pic of both, The 3 wire WR light is on the left, and the KDX lamp is on the right: :
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2516/003uf.jpg) (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/003uf.jpg/)
Both lights use a simple 3 stud mount :
(http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/7799/006re.jpg) (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/006re.jpg/)
So all's I did was drill the stock KX500 fender to accept the lamp. You want to make sure you place the lamp as far back on the fender as possible to prevent the tire from contacting the bolts on the underside of the fender upon a suspension bottom out:
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/6836/94838675.jpg) (http://img163.imageshack.us/i/94838675.jpg/)
And the semi-final install:
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/5666/33149663u.jpg) (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/33149663u.jpg/)
The only further mod I will need to do to the tail light is to seal the base of the lamp to the fender with some clear RTV silicone. The lamp base is flat, but the fender is curved so I don't want water and mud leaking past the lamp.
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The stock KDX200's mount the voltage regulator under the seat bolted to the top of the frame near the rear of the airbox. Here's a pic of the KDX200 mounting:
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9856/cpp102toc1.jpg) (http://img690.imageshack.us/i/cpp102toc1.jpg/)
This location won't work on a KX500 as there is no room under the seat. So after severall options I found a secure, and convienent location under the LH numberplate. It also makes perfect use of the OEM connector to the KDX wiring harness:
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4573/46486079.jpg) (http://img692.imageshack.us/i/46486079.jpg/)
The only issue I might have with this location is it's bolted to the plastic rear fender. Sometimes voltage regulators run hot, and might melt the plastic fender, so this is something I will have to pay close attention to.
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Polar, thats a fine job you have done with the light kit, I have been wantng to do the same thing, just havent been intrested in buying that 450.00 kit. Thanks for the tips, are you going to install blinkers too? I wish I could so I could ride on the street ,that would be a lot of fun.
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Polar, thats a fine job you have done with the light kit, I have been wantng to do the same thing, just havent been intrested in buying that 450.00 kit. Thanks for the tips, are you going to install blinkers too? I wish I could so I could ride on the street ,that would be a lot of fun.
I am pondering over installing blinkers. Per NH DOT law, they are NOT required on a motorcycle. They would however be a nice convienent addition, but they add weight, and stick out (possible getting damaged off roading). I have heard that Kawasaki actually made a KDX200 "S" model in Europe that has FULL electrics, and even had oil injection, but info is slim on this model.
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How do you go about getting the KX street legal in terms of the DMV?
I'm not sure about NH, but here in MA its a P.I.T.A. The only two ways i've been able to figure out are make the bike street legal, ie lights horn blinkers etc, and then bring it to the state police for a "custom vehicle inspection". i believe that is the same sorta inspection a garage custom chopper with a self welded frame would go through. but I've heard its not easy to pass. And even harder for a OHV that was never meant for the road.
The alternative (that I know has worked for a buddy) is to find a street legal frame. I'm keeping and eye out for something like a 90's KLX300 or KLR250. Then "adjust" the frame number on the KX500s frame to match. Find an inspection station that'll look the other way, and presto!
Again, theres not much of an easy way to do it in MA
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This step was fairly straight foreward, and the fact I am using a '99 KDX200 wiring harness made this mod "almost plug-n-play. The only real modification was soldering a female bullit connector on to the lighting coil to plug into the KDX wiring harness :
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6108/0022mm.jpg) (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/0022mm.jpg/)
The KDX voltage regulator has a convienent OEM connector:
(http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/2256/0042x.jpg) (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/0042x.jpg/)
The KDX headlight switch mounts nicely on the RH side of the bars, and plugs into the harness behind the headlight housing:
(http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/4571/94560027.jpg) (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/94560027.jpg/)
The headlight/ headlight switch sub harness' plugs into a red and black set of connectors under the fuel tank:
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9271/0062hs.jpg) (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/0062hs.jpg/)
And lastly the rest of the CDI, frame grounds, and kill switch connections are all color matched, and you just plug them all together near the coil:
(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5944/007kjy.jpg) (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/007kjy.jpg/)
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A sweet OEM looking 2001 KDX500 A1 !!!
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/3527/008jh.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/008jh.jpg/)
So that's it for now, this was a LOT of forethought, and i'm mentally spent. I still have to add a brake light banjo bolt switch to complete the swap, but i'm not worried about this now, as winter is almost here, and I will be only riding out on the ice.
Hope this thread detailed all the steps needed to do this swap well, and it will save you a ton of time !
Rich K.
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That is absolutely gorgeous. I think you read my mind for what I planned on doing this winter, and beat me to it! Well now I have an excellent guide!
Thanks in advance!
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If anybody wants to do this, I have a bunch of original KDX parts available.
No need to buy a whole bike for a few parts (unless you need a frame).
headlight sets, light switches, original rear fenders with lights, etc.
No wiring harness, no frame.
PM me.
Barry
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Awesome job...
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If anybody wants to do this, I have a bunch of original KDX parts available.
No need to buy a whole bike for a few parts (unless you need a frame).
headlight sets, light switches, original rear fenders with lights, etc.
No wiring harness, no frame.
PM me.
Barry
Which moder KDX ? (I am looking for a 90-92 KDX250 rear fender ) ?
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awesome conversion so far! what kind of wattage is that lighting coil rated for? the lighting coil on my kx5 is rated for 200w and the lights still dim down at idle.
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awesome conversion so far! what kind of wattage is that lighting coil rated for? the lighting coil on my kx5 is rated for 200w and the lights still dim down at idle.
Reguardless of peak wattage output with a lighting coil, your lights will always go dim at idle. Most all dirtbikes with lighting use an "AC" voltage system. If you converted to a "DC" type system with a 12V battery, the light will stay much brighter at idle, as now the battery is also assisting in the power supply at low rpm's.
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Which moder KDX ? (I am looking for a 90-92 KDX250 rear fender ) ?
I have a 1999 and a 2001. Both are identical except graphics.
Will these work?
I'll send you a picture after this weekend.
Barry
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Which moder KDX ? (I am looking for a 90-92 KDX250 rear fender ) ?
I have a 1999 and a 2001. Both are identical except graphics.
Will these work?
I'll send you a picture after this weekend.
Barry
Barry, I would like to see if I can get the KDX odometer setup to work on the KX500.. maybe you can help me with some pics. I am mainly wondering how the KDX front wheel hub drives the speedo unit ?
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my kit is dc with a battery, the lights dont go out just dim. just curious how that stator will work, it looks like it wouldnt power much. im constantly looking for options just in case my now-obsolete e-line stator craps out.
i do like that headlight a lot, im still trying to find a good looking replacment for mine.
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Polar,
For a spedo, I use Trail Tech Vapor
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
It uses a magnetic bolt that replaces a bolt that hold the brake rotor, and a sesor mounted to the caliper senses the magnet passes as the wheel rotates.
Whats nice about the Vapor is its also a Tach, (numeric RPM and a bar graph), Ambient and engine temp gauge, odometer, backlight, battery backed up, and about a million other things that are listed on that link.
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Polar,
Using a mechincal speedo is a hassle. I would also suggest the trailtech vapur or a bicycle speedo like I use. The install is simple. I recently took the mech speedo off my sons KTM and replaced it with a bicycle speedo. Cam.
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Cool project, good job so far!!
I started putting together some parts for the same kind of project. I dont know if its something that I'll get done in 2 months... or 2 years.... but I saw the opportunity and went for it
I found a 1989 KDX200 frame on Ebay that came off a bike that was already street licensed / ridden in Iowa... !!
I'm in Missouri, and I hear it can be a bit troublesome to get a 2 stroke street legal, but... if you take a bike thats already been street licensed / titled, its no big deal. The DMV doesn't even notice at that point.
That, and I have a friend at a shop here that will inspect / sign off on anything I bring him, so inspection is no problem.
I've got a 1997 KX500, with a fair number of mods (pipe, ported cylinder, balanced crank, new piston, etc etc), I'm going to put that engine in that KDX frame, and as many of the other KX parts that will fit
Btw, that KDX frame was only $180 shipped .... how could I pass up on that deal ???!
Anyways. Good luck on your project, I'll let you guys know when I start on mine too :)
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When getting the kx street legal, don?t you need certificates for exhaust and noise emissions and stuff like that?
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Cool project, good job so far!!
I started putting together some parts for the same kind of project. I dont know if its something that I'll get done in 2 months... or 2 years.... but I saw the opportunity and went for it
I found a 1989 KDX200 frame on Ebay that came off a bike that was already street licensed / ridden in Iowa... !!
I'm in Missouri, and I hear it can be a bit troublesome to get a 2 stroke street legal, but... if you take a bike thats already been street licensed / titled, its no big deal. The DMV doesn't even notice at that point.
That, and I have a friend at a shop here that will inspect / sign off on anything I bring him, so inspection is no problem.
I've got a 1997 KX500, with a fair number of mods (pipe, ported cylinder, balanced crank, new piston, etc etc), I'm going to put that engine in that KDX frame, and as many of the other KX parts that will fit
Btw, that KDX frame was only $180 shipped .... how could I pass up on that deal ???!
Anyways. Good luck on your project, I'll let you guys know when I start on mine too :)
Keep in mind one serious issue with your project. VIBRATION. The KX500 engine puts out a LOT of vibration, and I would bet my life that the 500 engine will harmonic vibration hammer that KDX frame to death. I would suggest having all the welds beefed and gusseted. Other than that sounds way cool !
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Barry, I would like to see if I can get the KDX odometer setup to work on the KX500.. maybe you can help me with some pics. I am mainly wondering how the KDX front wheel hub drives the speedo unit ?
Rich,
I checked over the holidays and don't have any separate components to photograph. You really can't see it on the Kawasaki company parts listing webpage, but the KDX hub is keyed and the speedo drive is a seal & spacer as well as having a keyed gear that fits the hub. Since I am not using the odos any more, I still need to have the drives to get the sealing and spacing to use the original front wheel/hub. I picked up a used '99 KX250 front wheel with traditional seals that I was going to switch to and make my own spacer, but never have gotten around to it yet.
So, sorry, no pics.
I DID however, get some fender pics. I'll post them tonight from home.
Barry
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Using a Moose lighting coil.
Is there a part #, or what application, did you use?
I'm wanting to buy one from Moose.
thanks
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spend the money and get the crank balanced, save a lot of headache.