KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60 => Topic started by: gwcrim on January 17, 2007, 01:15:17 AM
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I'm trying to remove the clutch basket from our KX85. I tried my weak and tired impact gun to no avail. A good one might work, but mine is a POS. Any other ideas?
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Are you sure it isn't a lefty thread? Heat it with a hot air gun! Get a bigger impact! All else fails air chisel!
Good luck! :roll:
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How do I know if it's a lefty or not?
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check manual, If you can see the thread you can tell or if the rotation is such that if would unscrew it self during normal running it would normally be left hand.
Alan :-)
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GW, I called House of Kawasaki in OKC because I don't have a book for the KX85. Service told me it will be Right hand threads. Like Alan says look at the threds and make sure. I would use my torque wrench and set it a little higher than the factory setting. That way if you are going the wrong way it will click before you over tighten it to much, then try it the other way. Let us know what you find.
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Well Day-am! Thanks Mr. Danger!
I'm thinking worst case, I'll drill the sucka off.
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Crim, are you holding the basket still while you impact away or are y ou letting it spin? Take a towel or the likes and a large pair of plyers (towel to protect) and hit it a few times with an impact. Works every time. Even with a weak one.. Believe it or not, my new snap on impact sucks compared to my old tired craftsman.. Go figure.
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I tried it in gear, holding the wheel with my hand. No go. I'll try to delicately hold it with a big set of channel locks. But I ended up breaking the one on my 500 when I tried to remove it. So my track record is less than stellar.
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I hear you. That's why I use a nice shop towel to grip, but not metal to metal grip. The inner basket is weak and breaks easy. I only recommend it with an impact. I'm amazed it didn't budge in gear. It's a shame you aren't from around here, I have a DPAC impact I'd give you..
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I removed the nut on my flywheel today to add a Steahly flywheel weight. I know for sure the direction of the nut and used a impact to knock it off. I'm going to copy the installation instructions from the Steahly Flywheel Weight because it will work for removal/install on your clutch basket. Use one of the ideas below to keep the flywheel assembly (crank shaft) from turning when you loosen the nut. Some of these methods could cause damage if you are not careful.
A. Use a Steahly Engine Lock Up Tool, part # E-3, for most two strokes up to 380cc. It screws into the spark plug hole and the piston hits the plastic tip, which stops the flywheel rotation.
B.Use an air powered impact wrench to quickly spin the nut loose. However, it will not allow accurate torque when tightening the flywheel weight and may cause damage to the flywheel weight.
C. Remove the spark plug and bring the piston up to about one inch from top dead center. Feed in a few inches of rope (leave some hanging out so you can pull it back out). Make sure that the rope does not go into any of the cylinder ports. Now slowly turn the engine over compressing the rope between the cylinder and the head until the flywheel stops turning. Use only smooth torque action while loosening and tightening nuts. Do not use hammers or breaker bars.
D. Put the transmission in high gear and hold the rear brake on. Be careful, if you get too rough you could break your brake caliper bracket.
D did not work for me, but B and C did. I think this would work for the clutch basket.
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I thought about stopping the piston with rope but the inner basket drives the rear wheel and when the clutch plates are out the crank is not effected. I also tried to heat the nut with a torch and then hit it with the impact gun. No go.
Would it be tacky to take the bike to the local Kaw shop and ask them to remove the nut only? They're the ones who put it on so danged tight when the put the crank in it!
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The nut you are trying to remove, is it on the crank shaft?
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No. It's the nut that holds the clutch basket assy. in. And when it spins the rear wheel turns, not the crank. The outer basket is turned by the crank. The inner (which is held on by the BIG nut) drives the rear wheel.
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No. It's the nut that holds the clutch basket assy. in. And when it spins the rear wheel turns, not the crank. The outer basket is turned by the crank. The inner (which is held on by the BIG nut) drives the rear wheel.
Know any friends in the automotive business? Anybody with an air impact that could just pop it off?
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Can you snap a picture for us?
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Crim, if all else fails.. But a clutch basket tool. It will cost you the SAME price as the dealer to take it off and it is ALWAYS nice to have one around. I have one and have never used it. My impact has always done the trick and is faster and lose less skin (from my hands).
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http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=28288&store=Main&catId=119&productId=p28288&leafCatId=11903&mmyId=
For reference.. But that is an expensive one. I believe I paid around $18 at my dealership for a rip off of the same.
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I was just sitting here looking at the blame thing and then it hit me. I've been in talks with a guy about creating a partnership and buying a Yamaha store. I bet he'd knock it off for me, gratis. He needs me to co-sign!
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Update: Got one of those vise grip type of hub holders and tried the impact gun and the breaker bar to no avail. It's not the greatest of tools but it sure should have done the job.
The only option left is to take it back to the Kaw shop who put the crank in. They tightened it up. Let them take it off. No?
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Man I would find a shop manual and make sure of the direction of the nut maybe House of K told me the wrong direction. Mine on the KX500 came off and retorqued very easy.
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Time for the tourch! :x :evil: :x :-o :-(
The nut must be galled to the threads!
Gulled, .application is known as: a condition where the threads & or mating threads gall, seize, or form a burr due to misalignment, fatigue, or ...
Sorry I had to look it up! He He! :-D :-D
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Time for the tourch! :x :evil: :x :-o :-(
The nut must be galled to the threads!
Gulled, .application is known as: a condition where the threads & or mating threads gall, seize, or form a burr due to misalignment, fatigue, or ...
Sorry I had to look it up! He He! :-D :-D
Absolutely. Heat it up and it will pop off.. They must have installed it with a hub holder + an impact (bad idea). Maybe you ought to stop by a Walmart or Sams and pick up an Air set (impact, wrench, hammer, ect.) for cheap.. I got my friend one for christmas and I don't remember it costing more than $50-$60 for the set..
PS: Also, might try a torque bar, if you have the hub held well, maybe have somebody crank on it..?
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Harborfreight.com http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93296
3/8 drive $19.95
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As I said, I have an impact gun and a breaker bar and a hub holder. None of them worked. So I just got off the phone with All Pro (local Kaw shop) and they said they'd be more than glad to buzz it off for me.
This should be interesting.
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As I said, I have an impact gun and a breaker bar and a hub holder. None of them worked. So I just got off the phone with All Pro (local Kaw shop) and they said they'd be more than glad to buzz it off for me.
This should be interesting.
I'll be waiting to hear how it goes?!?
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Take an old clutch plate and friction plate. line them up in the hub and basket, then clamp them together (needle nose vice grips work great). take em out, drill and bolt them together. you have created a clutch lockup tool.
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When someone would come up with a good idea, my boss I worked for in the oil field would say "Innovating ideas like that make men Presidents". Sounds like a good cheap clutch tool.
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Take an old clutch plate and friction plate. line them up in the hub and basket, then clamp them together (needle nose vice grips work great). take em out, drill and bolt them together. you have created a clutch lockup tool.
That's how I got my 500's clutch apart. Problem is, I don't need new disks on the 85. I'm pretty close to the dealer. Let them get it off.
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Nothing like toting dirtbikes around in 0 degree wind chill. And on top of that, All Pro couldn't get if off, They didn't even have a hub holder. They said that they all come off with a quick buzz off an impact gun. Well not this one!
So my options are heat the living hell out of it or cut it off. I'll try the heat first. But I have tried it before so I'm not real optimistic.
!@#$%^%&#^&!@$!@#%#!$^@!#$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe I'll just wait and see if this Yamaha shop deal materializes and get a blue one.
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I kinda thought that might happen. :x Head it up, it will come off.. I'm mostly a yamaha dude, as all my bikes are yamaha now.. I still can't believe they can't get it off!!
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IT' OFF!!!
I put the hub holder on tight, applied generous amounts of heat via a map gas torch and then whacked it with my impact gun.
Of course, the hub got hot and the holder squeezed it way out of round. In hindsight, I should have known better than to squeeze it so tightly but I was so intent on getting it off that all caution was through out.
Bike Bandit lists them at $37. GRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!
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Newbie here...I am currently having a heck of a time trying to get the bolt off my sons 2004 KX65. Can you confirm that the bolt thread is not reversed? Thanks
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Finally, it is off!!! No, it is not reversed thread to answer my own question. A ton of heat and about 110 psi on the impact wrench finally broke it loose. Great thread!!! Thanks kxriders.
I am in the process of splitting my first case to replace the lower bearing rod so I am sure I will have more questions going forward.