Maintenance & Technical > KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60

KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

<< < (109/122) > >>

Friar-Tuck:
Chris,
 You said your getting alot of white smoke with the larger pilot.
 If the bike ran better with the #35 go back down on the pilot and increase your main if you think the bike can handle it. If the clicking noise you are hearing is detonation the larger main should fix that.  You should have one size larger main in the last order that came a #230.
      If you continue to get alot of white smoke below 1/2 to 3/4 throttle you will start to see the dreaded oil spooge start to appear.     The larger main should give you more fuel from  1/2 to full throttle.
   
  Why do you think you need to adjust the timing?    The bike ran well before the meltdown, and I didn't change the port timing enough to warrant it.   By matching the ports, and cleaning up the casting flaws the flow will increase. 
   Raising and widening the exhaust will start the exhaust blowdown a bit earlier but I don't think enough that it would warrant a timing change.   
  You surely can try to go either way, but I think you will have to remove the flywheel to get to the screws that will allow you to move the stator plate.

   I'm glad the bike is finnally running better.  It may take a bit more tweaking but I'm sure you'll get it.
    Remember as the temp continues to drop you will have to increase your jet sizes as there is more oxygen in the air (per cubic foot of the atmosphere ).   
  So you will have to richen the mixture.   
 Take Care, and hang in there.
  T\o/

chris-mets:
Hey Tuck,

I cant tell if it ran better or worse with the 35 but there certainly was much more smoke with the 37.5...
Should I go into the bike again tomorrow and run 37.5 with a 230 main?

I remember reading somewhere that if you move the stator up or down that it will give more of a kick with the powerband...THe bike use to have a crazy powerband in any gear even first. Now there is no powerband except in 6th at full throttle. Say if im wrong or not.

Also I remember my bikes always ran the same way in hot or cold weather. I think if I get it at one base where it runs perfect then it wont be so bad. Tell me if Im wrong again.

Let me know what I should do with the jets. 37.5 with 230?

THanks.
Chris

Friar-Tuck:
Chris,
 The pilot jet is what the bike is idleing and running primarily up to about half throttle or so.
From around half throttle to full throttle is your main jet.
 The needle and clip adjustment will help with how well the bike makes the transition from Idle to full throttle, or  how cleanly the bike accellerates.
  What is not right, and what does your plug look like?   Does the bike start easily or is a buggar.
Go back through the fuel section of your clymer and there is a breakdown of what circuit in the carb is working or overlapping to the next circuit. 

 If you have a reason to believe you need to adjust the timing make small adjustments.  You can always start over at the stock setting.  This is just part of learning, it just takes time.

  Hang in there buddy.
    Tuck\o/

chris-mets:
That made me understand more. I actually did notice a difference in starting the bike. With the 35 it started first kick everytime without the choke. Now with the 37.5 it starts with like 4 kicks and I want it back to 1 kick since it was just rebuilt...

Im going to do my homework now then Im going into the garage. I will look at the plug then try 35 with 230 main.

After understanding that the main does half to full throttle I think thats the problem instead of the timing.

Thanks
Chris

Friar-Tuck:

 You may be right Chris,
  But You have to be methodical in going through the systems and like the other guys have stated , Only make one change at a time.  That's the only way you can Isolate the problem.   If you have enough Money to throw at a problem you can eventually fix or find it.  But being responsible with your cash on hand is something your parents will be watching.  It certainly will tell other people how responsible you are with what you have.
  The downside is it does take time...However the more you work with troubleshooting,
The quicker you can recognize symptoms or similar symptoms that lead to solutions.
  If manipulating the main doesn't get what you feel the engine should have in it.
Then you can move to the next area you feel isn't right.  If  you feel the timing needs to be checked there is a way to verify it's correct.   I hate to keep saying it... but have a look in the Clymer in the ignition section and and read through how to check it.
  Tuck\o/  :-D

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version