Maintenance & Technical > KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60
KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!
chris-mets:
I believe it was gas. I am 90 percent sure it was gas. transmission...check. carb secured but you forgot to send the little clamp that clamps the reed part to the carb. fuel line connected to carb...check...Im gonna check the cdi and all the wiring after im done with the shelving in my garage. those two stator wires are connected and clicked in. I dont know what it is. I know that your suppose to check for spark by putting the spark plug tip against another peice of metal but that never worked for me. I have never seen a spark so I dont know. And why do you think the backwheel isnt locking when I put it in gear? TThanks.
Chris
Friar-Tuck:
The carb boot clamp was on the boot and the reed block was bolted on, Check and see if the clamp didn't get snagged on the plastic bag and got pulled off. See last pic (below) before she went "In The Box"
I was retyping while you posted check above for spark test.
How much slack do you have in the clutch lever?
T\o/
chris-mets:
I will check again for the carb boot clamp tomorrow. I dont know why it wont start. Do you know why the back wheel doesnt lock? Before I sent you my engine, the clutch mechanism in the case that you bought moved back and forth and when I received it it doesnt move so it was very hard to put the cord on. The clutch is very tight.
Chris
Friar-Tuck:
Sorry, we had a power failure for a coupl hrs. go figure...
The washer was missing between the clutch release button, and the thrust bearing. I Fixed (or replaced) it.
When you hooked up your clutch it was adjusted to take up the slack (or space) the washer should have.
All you had to do was adjust your clutch freeplay.
When you remove your cable the clutch arm moves quite freely, I polished it, and the corner of arm that cams over the release button.
What you have right now is a clutch that is always applied or Slipping.
It's a good thing the engine didn't start.
You would have fried the clutch!
So Step by Step:
Get a crescent wrench and open it to fit the clutch arm. Don't use Channel locks, pliers or vice grips, it digs into the clutch arm and leaves sharp edges. I filed them down so you wouldn't get cut.
Apply pressure and remove the cable. (towards the little Perch that holds the adjuster)
WE have to start over.
Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable at the little perch and let all the slack out.
Unwind or put back all the slack available in your clutch lever at the perch.
Now you should be able to hook up your clutch cable.
We are gonna adjust out most of the freeplay at the cable near the clutch arm or the bottom end of the cable.
That way you can quickly adjust the lever if you need to later up top.
Check your Clymer for the amount of clutch freeplay and dial it in.
Lock the cable in at the bottom there are usually two nuts 10 or 12 mm.
Tuck\o/
chris-mets:
No problem.
I have a crescent wrench or as I know it as called an adjustable wrench :p
I dont really understand what I have to do. Do I have to buy a washer? cause the cable and everything is attached. are you saying that the case that you had to replace has to be taken off and worked on?
Chris
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