Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Aluminum Frame Conversion (AFC)
How well do you like your KX250F/K5 conversion
sandblaster:
--- Quote from: SS109 on December 07, 2012, 12:45:55 PM ---Instead of using a huge U shaped piece of aluminum on the frame to mount to the bracket how about just a simple wedge sort of like this?
--- End quote ---
I had considered that exact design but when it came to strength I feel the way I am doing it is the strongest.
Here is what I had come up with:
The huge aluminum block started as 2" x 1 3/8" x 1 1/4"
After a few minutes of machine time it does not weigh very much :-)
sandblaster:
--- Quote from: SHLEPY on December 07, 2012, 01:27:13 PM ---This is a 2006 kx 250f frame that was done by Jerry and the ims 3 gal tank fits with no problem hope this will help.
http://s1296.beta.photobucket.com/user/SHLEPY500/media/IMG_0783.jpg.html#/user/SHLEPY500/media/IMG_0786.jpg.html?&_suid=135493337071907457251697957659
--- End quote ---
Thanks!
It's kind of hard to tell what view that is but I think it is using the stock location of the 250F frame.
I originally was going to do something similar to that and I might still.
If one head mount is good, 2 might be better :-o
SS109:
--- Quote from: sandblaster on December 07, 2012, 01:52:28 PM ---I had considered that exact design but when it came to strength I feel the way I am doing it is the strongest.
--- End quote ---
My concern was not weight but of strength. Just not as much welding on the main downtube. Basically the single block only affects one side of the downtube whereas the larger block affects three sides as you would be welding all the way to each side. Eh, just me over thinking stuff as usual! :-D
I do agree that two head mounts might be the way to go. My bike won't be seeing any big air as it will be a desert/hare scramble bike but I don't want to chance cracked/broken rails. I know I plan to use the head mount like is SHLEPY's pic but might add the front mount as well. Of course, I will using a KDX250 engine and not a KX500 so there should be a little more room to work with. I would do the front like what I suggested in my other post but with the front bracket like this (sorry I butchered your pic!) to make engine R&R easier...
sandblaster:
No problem on the pic :-P that is what thread is all about, R&D.
There are tons of good ways and bad ways to do this.
I would never have attempted anything like this before reading all the good info on this site.
The more ideas expressed the better chance of getting the best combo.
sandblaster:
Because a few people had problems breaking their frame rails I wanted to be sure I understood where the transfer of energy was taking place at.
Here is a rough diagram of where the mounting points are in relation to the frame.
As you can see, when coming down hard on a jump the force is transferred in a radial motion pivoting on the 17mm swing arm pivot pin.
So, the rear head stay must be in line as much as possible with the direction of the force to prevent the engine from rotating forward and putting the cradle under tension.
Having the front mount on the head helps to stop any force that is trying to be transferred to the frame rails.
On further review I believe that if I remove the gas tank I can remove the engine without having to remove the front head stay.
Although when I get further into this I will test that theory :-o
Here is some pics of the different views.
Nothing is welded yet but you get the idea:
That's my story and I'm sticking to it for now :D
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version