General > Riding Tips & Tricks
Fork Seal Strategy
bigbellybob:
every fork is different. i had the 50mm zoks in 97 and they sucked. second ride on a new bike and the seals started leaking. nothing helped the seals leaked almost instantly after rebuilds. i have some 50mm wp's that r very similar to the zoks and they have never leaked.
and not to get into another ATF debate but, i have used ATF in my forks for 10 years now.
Hillclimb#42:
--- Quote from: bigbellybob on November 04, 2010, 05:12:21 AM ---
and not to get into another ATF debate but, i have used ATF in my forks for 10 years now.
--- End quote ---
:lol: That stuff must be good in everything :lol: SCARY, man. Where'd ya hear about that?
Thanks for the info, Don. Thats pretty much my set-up. I look at the forks after riding a bit, and am looking for just a few inches that have not been wiped clean. Got the seals replaced and am hoping to have that behind me for awhile. gonna try to keep them clean, and aligned. That alignment tool deal is funky to me. I looked at a buddies and it seems that you'd have to hold it on the forks up high, then down low, but you'd have to remove the wheel. I'm a carpenter, by trade, but can't seem to find a solid way to measure their alignment with or without a special tool. I pulled the fender and tried getting everything straight looking. I swear, I work on them just as many hours as I get to ride them. Getting things right means riding with confidence. Thanks for the help...
Friar-Tuck:
Hey HC,
The first time I was aware of the ATF in the forks, it was actually recommended in my Honda FSM for my '85 Cr500 & XR600.
The first time I changed the fluid in them both I used syn atf. (Got lots of junk out of both sets)
Then went to 7wt. fork fluid. It worked just fine. But I'm an old and slow trail rider!
Tuck\o/
Hillclimb#42:
That seems weird to me. ATF in the forks, a little cheaper, but how would you know what weight you are using, or be sure that its performing right. Foaming or expansion and contraction with atmospheric changes and riding conditions. It would be hard to tell what's goin on inside there, and its expensive parts to replace, if there is an issue. I'm no expert, not even close, is it the same chemical composition? Does the vicosity of ATF, and the oil that's typically used, react the same to extreme temperature swings? Is the FSM like "Factory Support Manual" or something like that, Tuck? Not stoking a debate, just interested in everyone's opinion, to get a good working knowledge of these forks.
Its also weird that when you dump out the old oil, it looks like used crancase oil or somethin'. What causes it to darken like that? It has to be internal oxidation of parts, don't it? Surely thats not all dirt and grime that passes by the seals. :?
What does it do, if you run a higher oil level than standard, or lower? Does it translate into harder/softer or is it just a recommended window of oil capacity levels? Suicyde?
What is the best method for oil level? Measuring down form the top of the compressed fork, or ratio cup with the recommended amout of ml's? I have been doing both as a double check for my rookie status, but all of the double checking adds to the repair time quite a bit. Thanks for all of the responses, hopefully I am not the only one that needs the education!!!!
BDI:
Its not just the fact that your bottoming out that kills the seals, It's the speed at wich it happens. The forks blast through their travel way faster then they would other wise and the pressure in the forks spikes very fast and very high. Also in my opinion you should use the fork oil that comes in the bike stock. back in the day forks were not adjustable to the degree that they are now so you would have to change the weight of the oil. Now most forks can be adjusted way to soft or stiff by the clickers alone thus making it pointless to change the weight of the oil. In most cases that I have seen people just create head aches by putting the wrong weight oil in their forks.
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