Maintenance & Technical > KX250 / KX125
Main Bearing Repacement
mustangfury:
I tried running bel ray gear saver but the clutch was sticking really bad with it. When I would go to put the bike in first it would not go in easy. It would slam in and try to take off if I did not hold in the front brake. I don't know why. I was told you could use 10W-40 motor oil and that is what I have been running. When I put the motor oil in, I did not have the clutch problem anymore. It works fine? From experience, has anyone found motor oil to be a bad idea? If you have found it causes problems, what is the best to use to avoid wear?
Thanks.
alward25:
10w40 oil is fine as long as it meets the standard for motorcycles. Friction inhibitors are bad for clutches, it makes them slip. I ran ATF based on a after reading some chatter on this site. In 5th gear pinned I had the oil build up enough pressure it pushed out the countershaft sprocket seal. Going back to motor oil never had the problem. Stewart runs 30 weight non synthetic in his engines for what that is worth. Gear oil like a Bel-ray gear saver or Amsoil type stuff I would think would be good. I like most have run about every oil out there over the years and have my preferences like most people. Run what works for you. I run Amsoil 10w40 motorcycle in my K5.
Good luck!!!
mustangfury:
What designates oil meets the standard for motorcycle Transmissions? I am assuming it is one of the two letter codes/standards on the bottle? If so, which one(s) should I look for? Would synthetic be worse or better? I ran walmarts supertech non-synthetic.
alward25:
Usually API Service SG, SL/CF/CG-4, Jaso MA/MA2, ISO-L-EMA2 are all ratings that will work. Rotella 15w40 is a great all round oil. I have used it in 2 and 4 strokes and it is a great inexpensive oil that you can get at Wal-mart for less than $13 a gallon. It is made for diesel engines and holds up awesome.
--- Quote from: mustangfury on September 21, 2010, 08:57:58 AM ---What designates oil meets the standard for motorcycle Transmissions? I am assuming it is one of the two letter codes/standards on the bottle? If so, which one(s) should I look for? Would synthetic be worse or better? I ran walmarts supertech non-synthetic.
--- End quote ---
mustangfury:
(1) when you heat up the cases to put the bearing in, do you have to get all the bearings in with one heating or can you reheat it one bearing at a time?
(2) Will heating up the case with other bearings in it cause the case to crack because of different expansion rates of steel and aluminum?
(3)When you say the bearings will drop right in, do you literally mean you can just set them in or will you have to tap them in with a hammer and socket?
(4) how quick do you usually need to get them in before it cools too much: seconds, minutes, 10 minutes?
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