Maintenance & Technical > KX250 / KX125

Getting the jet needle out of the throttle valve?

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Friar-Tuck:
 Stang,
  Your Idle is totally personal preference.     You might have to mess with the air screw as the temps start to increase or decrease.  Since the air screw and pilot are always open to all the circuits of your carb, this is a way to fine tune for small elevation,temp,and humidity changes.   once you run out of comfortable adjustment in them it's time to make an adjustment in your main and move these back to a more conservative setting.
  Ok, I got you on the 32:1 premix and finnishing up the 40:1 in the tank or fuel can.   
Once your temps start to stay above 80 during the day  I would change the main (for Summer) and say move to a spring spring fall change for temps of 70 to 80 and if you run winter 60 to 70 or so you might have to Change mains again.
  Got to go to work . I'll be back fri night sat am.
  Tuck\o/   

bigbellybob:

--- Quote ---I know it was not completely hot yet
--- End quote ---
there is no point in puling the plug if you didn't get the bike to full temp and do a proper plug chop. the reading is worthless. get the bike to full temp then go WFO for 100 feet or more then hit the kill switch at the same back off the throttle. get your main jet set to give a good reading when WFO and then we can work on the other jetting ranges. until you get the main jetted right its almost pointless to play with the other jetting parameters.

mustangfury:
I took it to the farm yesterday and got her nice and hot. The bike runs a whole lot better. it has an incredible boost in power.  After getting it up to full operating temperatures, I checked the plug and it seemed to be pretty much the same as when i had it around the yard but the electrode was brown and dry looking. the threads still had the same amount of oil on them.  I took her wide open for about 15-20 seconds in first gear and killed it and pulled the clutch in. i looked at the plug and it looked the same as at slower speeds but maybe with a little more of a dry brown area, not much at all though.  I rode her for a while with my girlfriend, about 1-2 hours, and she still developed a coating of oil on the back fender and the inside of the silencer nose was coated as well.  I think it might be running just a tad bit rich still.  When going about 0 to 1/4 throttle if i nailed the throttle to full it would delay a second or two before taking off.  The weather was about 70 degrees with 30% humidity.

Hillclimb#42:
 I just replaced packing on a silencer on a ktm 105. I had just done it this time last year. The front half was totally saturated and the back half, still basically new. You want the dry brown, and the noticeable increase in power. Getting the jetting right, really helps power. You probably are just dealing with lots of oil in the packing. Its harmless, but changing out the packing will cure it, and will also help your bike, Be careful leaning it out too much. I always start a bit rich, then lean it out only to the point it runs cleanly. Silencer packing is just part of the fun. :-D

mustangfury:
I just repacked it before i put the new jet in.  Yes it is a lot more fun and yes start rich.  I was actually thinking of finding where it runs perfectly clean, then drop back one jet just to reduce wear.  Thanks for the tips.

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