General > Riding Tips & Tricks

Attacking...

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mikesmith:
Another thing you can do to help keep the attack position with "elbows up" is to over grip the throttle,otherwise to run WFO with out over gripping your elbow drops.You want your elbow to stay up,over grip so your elbow doesnt drop as you open it up.I also like to ride with my hands turned inward on the grips as it makes my elbows go up.When you ride most of the time you should be on the balls of your feet,it gives you more control,suspension and allows you to react faster.I never was sure why some boots have a replaceable area on the boot sole by your heel/arch?That shouldnt be the area for the most wear.

John:
The riding position is really the key to the whole riding experience, elbows out, stand up, squeeze the tank with your knees and all!

Maybe this is kind of low level basics but it is still useful information.

The angles of your arms changes when you stand up as opposed to sitting down. When standing up on the bike yore arms are in a steeper angle relative to the ground.

Tip 1; adjust the brake and clutch lever so your fingers (when resting on the levers) are in a straight line with your arms when standing up (possible even pointing slightly down) - rather than in a straight line when sitting down. The levers will be pointing more towards the ground. It might feel a bit strange until you get used to the feeling but it is worth it. This will also lessen the fatigue in your arms when you?re riding standing up, which is not a bad thing. 8)

Tip 2; unless you already have loosened the levers on the handle bar, you should. Ideally, it should be possible to turn the levers on the handle bar with hand force. If they are somewhat loose, in most cases it will stop them from braking when you hit the dirt. They will just twist around the handle bars. 8)
 
/John

rhinogrrrl:
Now THIS is what I was talking about when I asked to add a "riding techniques section"!  :mrgreen:  Isn't this fun?!!

Some info is totally new to some...and other things we all know but we all can get lazy...so definitely add your knowledge!  :wink:

Paul:
Yeah, its fun but I look like a flag on that beast :lol:

Rick:
Yup, if you can't see your front number plate from your peripheral vision, you're not standing far enough forward.  On the levers, if your running stock levers, wrap a few turns of teflon tape around the bar before you install the perch.  Make sure the teflon tape extends just outside the edges of the perch, and then put loctite on the threads of the perch bolts.  Tighten the bolts so the lever will turn with a little pressure, but stay in place as you pound the whoops.  This will help the lever spin in a crash.  

Also, in the correct standing position, your levers should be much lower on the bar, and actually be awkward to use in the seated position.  My levers are mounted at about 70 degrees from parallel to the ground, and my sons give me a hard time about the position.  However, I have found that by moving the levers lower, it forced me to have the correct attack position, so I have just grown acustomed to the low levers.  

Manny is 100% correct.  Improve your riding position, and you'll have an easier time staying on the bike.  I wear out the insides of my knees so quickly on new pants, that I have a local leather shop sew a light leather piece right over the top of the kevlar knee piece on the inside of each leg.  I still wear through the leather, but at least it takes a couple of months.

Rick

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