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HELP chain adjuster bolts seized!

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Mudshark:
Okay..... I have a MAJOR PROBLEM.... the chain adjuster bolts are seized into
the swing-arm. They will only turn about a 3/4 turn under EXTREME FORCE.
I twisted off a 1/4" drive (my own stupidity) trying to get them to go further.

I've been WD40'ing them and turning them in and out as far as they will go.
It does not seem to be helping.. much, I've been at it for 1.5 hours!

HELP what to I do to get them out??

MadKaw:
did you try heating them?

FuriouSly:
OOppss.. stuck this in the wrong post before...   :roll:

Don't keep trying to remove them like you are unless you want to snap the bolts and have to drill/tap to a larger bolt.  What has happened is corrosion/rust has built up on the threaded portion of the bolt extending into the swingarm.  By trying to remove it you are just mashing that crap into the fragile threads of the aluminum swingarm and will seize the steel bolt snapping it off.

I am not sure of the swingarm on the KX5, but most alum swings have small drain holes for water accumulation on the underside of the arms near the adjuster bolts.  I am at work and don't have access to look at my KX5 to double check that info though.

Anyway, you need to either lay your bike on its side or remove the swingarm to remedy the situation.  Make sure to elevate the front end up about two feet or so higher than the rear end.

First: If you don't have holes, drill some small 1/16 inch holes about a inch or so back from where you believe the bolt is exposed on the underside of the swingarm tubes.  This will give you access for a spary nozzle tube to fit inside the arm bar.
Second:  Spray alot of break free, wd40, anti-seize type lube into the swingarm until you are sure it is fully soaking the threaded portion of the bolt completely.  Please be careful with an ignition source because the fume and liquid left behind will be very flammable.  Let this sit for a least an hour if not overnight.
Third:  Slowly remove the bolt out a few threads and then back in again to break the crud free.  The bolt should come out easily and then all the crud will drain out through the bolt hole.  YOu can put silicone over the hole when you are rebuilding the bike later to keep contaminants from reentering the swingarm.

Sly

Mudshark:
Thanks Sly,
hehe... I've put PB Buster in one side of the the swingarm and Liquid Wrench
in the other........ the race is on. Well I can't race the bike, may as well race
the penetrating oils  :-D
I let it sit for a hour, tapped the bolts "gently" with a dead blow hammer, as per
instructions....
Now we wait till the morning. I'll work on them in the day light.
All I did was undo and pull the rear linkage and shock bottom bolts, this
dropped the angle well enough the get the fluids down to the bottom....
provided that there are no ribs inside the swingarm...  :?

I'll have a few beers tonight and forget about it till the morning  :wink:

Polar-Bus:
Heres what I did on my '97 KX250 with the imfamous "siezed from never being antisiezed" adj. bolts. Drill a small .125" hole in the top of the swingarm right on top of the bolt. Then stick the hose from the can of penatrating oil into the hole and spray once a day for a few days. The oil will hopefully loosen the crud and rust from the inside of the bolts. After you get the bolts out, dab a bit of RTV sealant on the drilled hole to keep out water and mud.

PS I like PB Blaster, and another AWESOME oil made by GM called GM heat riser penatrating oil. You can get it at any GM/Chevy dealer

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