Maintenance & Technical > KX250 / KX125

KIPS subvalves are out by 1 tooth?

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DoldGuy:
Needsatopend,

A simple confirmation that you do (or don't) have the main valve timed correctly....

Turn the cylinder upside down, remove the center valve and pinion rod & gear. Now only install the side / barrel valves with their marks / dots aligned, pull the rod out & back in to confirm they open & close fully. The rod will be stopped from the bushing that holds the power valve seal on the lower right of the cylinder (lower right in the upright position). I think once you "See" this opening / closing of the side valves it will explain more than I ever could behind a keyboard. Again, hope this points you in the right direction.

DoldGuy

needsatopend:
There is only 1 way to time the flapper valve, and it's on the left side of the motor(upright) with the timing dot on the upper rod gear and alignment mark on the smaller rod

Ok we I lldisconnected the flapper gear upper horizontal shaft, and small rack rod so only the main rack rod and side valves / idler remained....

The side valves do fully open and close when aligned with the timing marks....but as soon as I reinstall the the upper mechanisms for the center / flapper valve, the opening and closing is limited by the flapper (the main part of the center valve that pulls out, it bottoms out and prevents further action)

DoldGuy:
I think you found your answer...

Leave your cylinder upside down with the side valves aligned with the marks, center/flapper valve should be in the raised position (gravity), open the side valves fully & then insert pinion rod in the center valve. Just remember when you turn the cylinder right side up, the side valves NEED to be held in place or they will fall out of time.

DoldGuy

needsatopend:
This really doesn't make sense, no matter how many times I take it apart and reassemble it following the manual intructions

Here is the flapper valve assembled first



Here is the flapper valve timed correctly from the left side



So now I flip the motor upside down and install the 2 side barrel valves so the punch marks point straight out. Then lift them to slide in the main rod(all the way), then push the barrel valves back down to line up the marks



Well this is the result after full assembly, when I open the KIPS by hand...the barrel valve aren't even half way opened



Now if i lift the barrel valves and reposition them by 1 gear tooth from the indicator, then when I open the KIPS, they fully open...doesn't make sense!

needsatopend:
Ok...I tried your method of installing the barrel valves and main rack in the fully open position first(using the marks and short tooth indicators), then installing the flapper valve assemblies(small rack, upper pinion rod and flapper fork)

There are a couple problems. A. there is no way to line up the upper rod pinion gear mark with the small rack line indicator

Not lined up:



B. The short rack protrudes from the hole when in fully open position:



C. The barrel valves are open by a hair when they should be closed



And for good measure, I don't think the main rack rod is able to fully close to catch the side lever (if i reinstalled the jug back on the bike)

This REALLY doesn't make sense. I'm definitely familiar with KIPS and how they work because I owned a KDX first. This mst be some factory defect where the short tooth indicators on the barel valves  were placed incorrectly from the factory.

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