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1993 kx 500 kips valve tuning

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KXDINO:
What thickness is your head gasket and what position is your timing on , another thing to look at is lever that pulls the kips rod out is tighten in the correct position also?

sandblaster:
Just curious, did you check the ohmn specs of the electrical?

http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=163

Out of spec electronics can do all sorts of funny things..
Did you leak down test the engine? Not a compression test, but a leak down?
If you remove the seat, start the bike, put your hand down by the air filter, and rev the engine... do you feel air blowing back through the filter?

b4himdude:
the answers to some of the questions asked  i will answer ... the main jet is stock 168 the pilot jet is stock 60  the jet needle is stock n82m and its on the second or fourth position. when i got the bike i went up about 2000 feet in elevation. so whichever way it was to do whatever the book said for leaner or richer in accordance to elevation is where i went. for some reason i think i did whatever it took to lean the fuel and richen the air . whichever way that was. t think. i dont remember .id have to go look which would be pretty easy now that i have the barrel off and the exhaust valves out again. i changed all the electrical today other than the stator. so as far as ohms ,no testing did i do but changing the ic igniter and the coil didnt change anything. i also went and got a fresh new 32:1 premix of 91 octane. plus i put in a new b8eg or was it es. i have to check the jet needle clip so ill look at that to.yep b8eg and the jet needle clip is on the second from the top. so yep i leaned her a notch.the stator plate is set just slightly on the advanced side of center. not even half way to the advanced notch line. maybe an 8th off of standard. the head gasket is a tusk oem head gasket i dont have a micrometer handy. because i have another new one sitting in the shipping cardboard still for next time.  but i got a little break on time on her today. it was still kinda chokey in the low to low mid rev range . but when she cleared her throat and really got a lung full for me to sprint through the gears i took full advantage of it. i love how fast you can get through the gears and be hitting fast in a matter of no time. . i probably almost have just shy of two hours on the break in now. not a favorable kind of break in. been apart 3 times now sense the initial assembly. god i just want to figure this s**te out.i appreciate all of everyones curiosity. a little more to the why side you ask all these questions might keep me on the same page a little quicker. im not ruling out anything but when you double up; on all parts stock and rebuild oem,. you would expect it all to be in tune. gotta check that kips thread still. and somebody mentioned putting the lever that pulls the exhaust valve rod "tightened in the correct position??" thats something i never knew had a correct position. just even with the grooved piece on the end of the rod all the way in and tight was what i thought was necessary....plus when the exhaust valves are closed to the port that means the solid backside of the valves are facing the exhaust hole blocking the [port completely off. and open means the slotted side faces the hole and is even ??? is that correct.?

sandblaster:
Your pilot is too rich.
At 0-1000ft 55 is a good starting point.
I suspect that at 2000 ft you'll probably need to go to a 52 depending on the air temp.
You'll know if your close if your idling good with the air screw at 1.5 turns out.

Set your needle on the mid or 3rd position to start with.
You may need to go to the 2nd position depending on elevation and temps.



You should notice a immediate improvement.

Foxx4Beaver:
I knew your jetting was way rich!
60 pilot is way too rich...there's a big part of your excessive carbon build-up cause...drop it at least 2 sizes to a 55 to start, and you'll see big improvements!...but I'm thinkin a 52 pilot will be the one you want...especially if you do any trail riding or slow speeds.

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