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1993 kx 500 kips valve tuning
dave916:
To check your pilot
warm the motor to operating temp.
Then set the idle {TOP LEFT SIDE OF CARB} so it so it idleing slightly higher than normal
Then turn the air screw{bottom rear left side carb} all the way in until it bottoms out
Then screw out 1/4 turn at the time, allow 15 seconds between each 1/4 turn for the engine to catch up
Back out until engine idles at highest rpms
This should be between 1 to 2 turn out
IF it revs highest before 1 turn /pilot lean
If it revs highest after 2 turn / pilot rich
after fitting the correct pilot reset your idle to perfered tickover
s**tty low speed running can be down to many issues /air leaks would be top of my list on kx ,case or crank seals, reeds electrics etc,
No point in chasing jetting issues if everthing else in the motor is not perfect
KIPPS will usually give issue at high rev at it preset it low rev position
To check the kipps timing remove exhuast, disconected kipps rod from governer {tiny circlip}
Look up the exhaust port and pull the kipps rod out/ in this position both kipps valves cutouts will be lined up perfect with the exhauts subports
as u push back in the the rod u shoud see the exhaust subport being blocked, {the may overclose slightly , kawaski decompressor/ search overclosing valve 3.3.2
http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/
DONT move the kipp governer by hand on clutch cover as the internal needle bearing can fall apart
b4himdude:
just so you know im at 5200 feet. elevation.
sandblaster:
Yep, your crazy rich for 5000 ft.
You might want to read this:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550
It generally applies to most two strokes but it was wrote specific to the K5
Foxx4Beaver:
--- Quote from: b4himdude on June 08, 2015, 01:32:57 AM ---just so you know im at 5200 feet. elevation.
--- End quote ---
just curious, how does it start?...one or two kicks, or many kicks to get it fired off?...and how does it idle?.
sounds like you've covered most everything else except the jetting.
change your low speed jetting.
99.9% of the time when someone says their bike is running s**tty/sluggish at low speeds, it's because the pilot is too big for their conditions, and/or the needle clip is in the improper position, and usually a different needle is required for fine tuning....and since you said you've gone up another 2000ft in elevation after you got it...well you know where I'm going with that.
it wouldn't hurt to do a leak down test like Blaster mentioned, since you've had it apart and back together...but I'm thinkin you'll find your problem in the carb.
b4himdude:
ok i looked at the link for jetting and i took the slow jet from 60 to 58 . judging from the conditions of the high end rev being spot on and the table in that very informative jetting guide i was linked up with showing my jet needle clip should be exactly where i have it for temperatures as we are coming into. i may want to lean out the slow jet a bit more . but a 58 is definitely in the range for my elevation. maybe a bit warmer and then a leaner by another couple might be in order. but i had a 58 laying around so a 58 is no cost and no trip down to 5th gear bike shop at the other end of town. plus its monday... no bike shops are ever open monday...are they? as i was asked how the bike starts/ idles / i forget what else .oh a leak down test. once i get it back together ill do that post haste. but for now ..heres how the other two questions get answered. starting - im not going to say ALWAYS but 99% of the time when i get the kick starter all the way to the top (a full good hard kick). since i rebuilt it other than when i tested it in the other frame mounted to a board which doesnt really count have i had to kick it more than one time to fire it up. yesterday i kicked it off balance and didnt get the full kick at it on the first try and had to give it a second kick. so first kick choke on but off immediately after it goes. idling.. when its cold it idles till warm when its warm it idles but the cap cable adjuster cant go too much further before it runs out. but i can get a high idle if i adjust it that way. i dont like a high idle. .but without the cap adjuster the idle air mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything too much one way or another. . but lets see after the slow jet i just put in does its job.maybe thatll solve the issue or show promise in the right direction. at least i was too rich. thats the better side at least. well better for not welding the rod to the shaft. i wish i had a picture of how the exhaust rods look in the barrel port from a view from the pipes hole when the bike is off and how the operating rod end is in conjunction with the pull lever thats held on by that 10 mm nut to the shaft that sticks out from the clutch cover. just so i can be 100% certain that i have the clue i know what im doing on that. until i know something by doing it myself and getting the result desired......then i know nothing about it and i dislike not feeling confident about something. i think utube should have a simple video on that. they have one but somebody is actuating the rod with a wrench and you can barely seen the main exhaust valve. that ois the biggest waste of video for the effort put into it. the main valve can only go in ONE way. its the two rod style ones that have marks to line up to another make and a right and a left side valve that mean everything to the system . just a picture with a bike off ,a pipe off ,a lever position with the plastic cover and rubber boot off so a person can see how far the rod is out and the lever is angled ,and the other picture of the right side valve position and left side position with the same bike off and not touched that way i know where to set it all. 3 pics maybe. i just dont know for sure on that. seems like theres only one way it can go. but somebody said something about the lever position and then tighten .. which leads me to believe there is some adjusting that can be done after assembly. but will also lose some of its full open or closed end . one way or the other. anyway oiu have to go guess at this thing one more time. thats where im headed now to do it the same dang way ive done twice before. how the book te;lls me. you know oits kind of questionable on that clymer447-3 book when it says line the marks on the exhaust shaft gears to the marks on the operating rod and then illustrates both marks off just slightly. wtf is that????? believe what i read but refer to figure 100 on page 1439 to see the picture and confuse myself. high performance must be exact. who edit those books. somebody needs to see if they can catch a bullet then illustrate it for me.
thanx guys. dont give up on me yet. from what ive read that youve shared i am very appreciative. how can i post a pic of my bike. you may be pleasantly surprised on how much ive done to my stock thumper...
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