Maintenance & Technical > KDX (KX step child)
Best Vendor / Brand for Steel Braided front brake line KDX 200 '90
Foxx4Beaver:
--- Quote from: Candyman on April 07, 2014, 07:58:14 AM ---Come on fellas. Im a lover not a fighter.
--- End quote ---
it's all in fun.... :-D
I've said it many times before, and I'll say it again....feel free to take a jab at me anytime....just leave mother/father/sibling comments out of it :wink:
easykiwi_rider:
--- Quote from: ID KX500 on April 06, 2014, 05:11:28 AM ---I have had good luck with HEL Performance. They can make them longer if you have tall bars.
http://www.moto-heaven.com/store/product.php?mode=add&productid=16709&cat=480&page=
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I agree ID; I had a hell of a time with my '93;
*new disc
*new pads
*rebuilt master cylinder
*bleed up
*bleed down
*new levers
*tied off brake and left overnight; and still spongy.
In the end the only thing not replaced was the hose; got a Hell one off Wemoto and it was solid enough to ride it up the back of the ute and brake in time. :evil:
With the inverted forks (shouldn't be a problem with your model) I had to modify it; I imagine it might just bolt straight on to your model though.
I'm trying to keep my Katie as original as possible; but front brakes? You can't compromise...
don46:
I have had problems with the older style master cylinders, if you want good brakes get a a newer 250f/450f master cylinder or heavan forbid a honda master. lever position makes a difference also, there is an adjuster for lever position if it is in to far it doesn't feel like you have any brake. thinking further, I used to replace all the front lines on my 250's and 125's, I used Galfer and fast line, both were good.
TheGDog:
I just went thru a whole bottle of brake fluid trying the vacuum bleeder method, with the one from Harbor Freight. I could never get it to stop having bubbles appear at the bleeder valve... but... to be honest I'm pretty sure that's just air sucking in from where the tube is pushed onto the bleeder valve.
Remember... had same feeling of could never get it to feel tight and not spongy... installed caliper rebuild kit. Try again... got back again to same feeling of mildly taught but mostly spongy, where...again... you could squeeze the lever in until it touches the handlebar. Tore-down, cautiously cleaned inside master-cylinder being uber careful not to scratch inside that tube... installed master cylinder rebuild kit... God d**n it... back to only being able to get to a certain amount of tightness in the feel, still quite spongy, still can squeeze enough to have lever touch the handlebar.
NOTE: I have my KX500 right beside it so I can reference that one to know how the lever is supposed to feel.
ALSO NOTE: I DO NOT observe any leaking brake fluid! Not emanating from anywhere in the caliper area... not anywhere around the master cylinder. (There's a teensy bit of spillage at the bleeder valve from removing/placing the bleeder tube, but that's it... and I wiped that area dry before beginning procedure today with the vacuum bleeder.
TheGDog:
--- Quote from: Foxx4Beaver on April 07, 2014, 07:18:21 AM ---ahhhh....here it is, I was way off....read this, maybe it'll be your problem, maybe not :?
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,8219.0.html
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Hrmm... I remember thinking that these spring clips seemed to fit in there in quite a loose fashion. At least... before putting the pads in anyway.
Ugh... since I'm going about this whole thing slowly anyway... where can I order a new set of those spring clips? And where can I order a new steel-braided brake line for this thing?
If there is not a clear 1990 KDX200 front brake hose item I can directly select out there... could some unbelievably nice soul out there tell me whatever measurement info I need to barf-up and mention to which-ever vendor I end-up having to acquire the brake line from?
Sigh.... in the meantime I guess I'll move on to putting in the petcock rebuild kit.
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