Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Aluminum Frame Conversion (AFC)
'09 500AF build
jBernard:
thanks!
having the guys that precision ground the Ti clutch pushrod to do the grinding on these as well, then my buddy will part and thread the ends. i'm not going to make the cylinder studs waisted like the stockers are.
i'm going to TRY and broach the ends with a hex head so i dont have to double-nut install them. but that may be hard to do with the quantity i have and be to much $$$.
RoostiusMaximus:
I use these....http://www.vehicleservicepros.com/product/10106652/goodson-tools-and-supplies-stud-removal-and-installation-tools
jBernard:
long overdue update!
have some awesome new people helping with the project, their parts finally came in, so time to give them some recognition.
Ken @ ARC Levers is an oldschool Open class rider and really appreciates my build. The composite levers they offer are amazing, highest quality pieces.
After seeing these my friend called Ken up and got a set for his '14 KTM 250SX and LOVES them. I contemplated going with the ASV levers for a while, but these are a far better product, better price, and the guys at ARC are always trying to help the riders.
Ken accidentally sent me the RC-8 mechanical clutch kit for my bike (very confusing to tell people you have a 1990 KX500 engine in a new AF KXF chassis, that uses a Brembo Hydraulic Clutch) haha!
I almost want to go back to mechanical now! The whole perch, pivot, and lever combo was INSANE! It's a work of art! Sadly sent it back but mine is just as high of quality!
http://www.arclevers.com/
One thing that's been concerning me a bit is how rigid my Yoke is, and how beefy the motor mounts are, but there's a lack of strength between the two for about 3" on the downtubes.
Thought about trying to weld on some alum strips on the inside, but that wouldn't look as nice.
So ended up modeling up some easy pieces to 'extend' down the tubes between the bottom of the yoke and the bottom of the top motor mounts. this should add a lot of aluminum thickness to this area and take my mind off of any kind of stress fractures arising.
Have some updated parts a friend helped me get made to share as well, just some blurry phone pics for now, but once they come in this week I'll get some better ones for everyone.
The stock D Bolt that comes with the Applied triple clamps (bolt that goes thru the bottom bar clamp and mounts it to the top triple) Is a heavy ass 3" long M10 zinc coated steel bolt.
We can do better than that can't we?
Rekluse Clutch spacer is DONE! Left a lot of stock on it for precise fit and hopefully as much chain clearance as I can get.
Teaser of the Mg Linkage shot. those Ti bushings are for this, then I can press in the bearings and it will be DONE finally! Eager to see how much my design weighs compared to the stock. I think it will be a lot.
Inconel 718 stock for cylinder and head studs is FINALLY done being precision ground. Now comes parting and threading each piece.
This stuff is crazy hard, pretty much a nightmare to turn down, so grinding is usually the way to go on this material. Makes Titanium seem like butter, and the only thing I've cut more difficult than it was Stellite 6.
Next steps:
- Weld front headstay bracket on frame
- Mill engine case to fit Rekluse Clutch Spacer
- Weld on lower yoke braces
- Assemble engine!
dave916:
Very tasty work
U should start making a few of them bits for sale,that clutch hyd spacer would be a handy sell and easy to post :-D
jBernard:
Couple of update photos to show finally.
peg bracket assembly finally done.
Racetech Titanium again hooked me up with some Ti peg bolts (fat shorty M12's) and M8's. dished head, just real nice stuff as usual.
Now peg assembly is done. Ti everything, Bolts, Brackets, Custom Pins, Raptor Ti Pegs. looks TRICK!
Here are the lower yoke braces I posted a picture of in the last post from Solidworks. I've held them up so you can see the fitment, I matched the width of the Yoke, and used same radius, so I can just fill that in, grind the joint down, and it will look like a longer yoke, but way more strength.
Headstay front bracket weld-in piece is in, I've taped the Ti uprights and the alum spacer together to show fitment. Of course, there will be 2 M8 bolts going thru it all (holes already in alum piece)
Rekluse Clutch spacer fits crazy tight, looks great.
I'll drill the 3 holes after it's welded to the case, I'm a bit worried about heat distortion on the threads if I do it pre-weld.
Everything except bearings in the linkage is either Ti or Mg
And a cometic gasket kit for upper and lower.
Hopefully getting frame and case to machine shop and welder here within a week to get the rekluse completed as well as the frame rail braces and weld in front headstay mount
Stay tuned!
Crazy the amount of response this is getting, over 18 THOUSAND page hits!
I feel bad for not getting more accomplished sometimes but there's so much on the plate it's staggering. But I think the time and effort to be meticulous is going to pay off with a one off result in the end.
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