Maintenance & Technical > KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60

lowering a KX 100

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KXcam22:
Welcome to the site.  I have lowered many bikes for my kids as they grew.  The KX100 should be no problem.  Building dogbones is easy.  The best material is 1/8" x 1" steel flatbar since this is a temporary thing and a bit more weight isn't the end of the world.  I have used 1/4 plywood scraps to mock up the dogbones with the bike on a stand. That way it is easy to drill a pair and temporarily mount them to see if you have got the seat height where you want it.  If you can draw with a CAD program, tape the printout to your steel and centerpunch the hole centers right through the paper (a cool trick that I use all the time).  You will need a metric drill bit or two.  Don't be surprised if a couple of mm shorter reduces the seat height by an inch.  The forks can be a bit more work.  If the junior rider is not taking big air the easiest thing is to simply cut the fork spring shorter.  You can add it back in later with a washer to separate them or get new springs. The best way is to disassemble the forks and add an extra top-out spring (which is the length of the amount you cut off the main fork spring).  Best source of the extra springs are automotic valve springs, all sorts of shapes and sizes and usually free (used ones) from an engine rebuilders machine shop. For conventional forks you can do the same thing OR I have often simply pulled one fork up in the tripple clamps so it reduces height while the other one prevents the wheel hitting the fender when bottoming.  Hope this helps. Cam.

cbxracer30:
Just a few things to add drill both pieces of metal at the same time drill one end and if possible bolt them together then drill the other end. Also the steel is cheap and all you have to do is round the ends off on a grinder , so make a couple different sets but like cam said a couple mm will make a big difference. CBX

revin:
Thanks for the info gents, I'm looking for about 1 1/2 inches lower seat height. Do you think 4mm longer link should do the trick?

KXcam22:
Thanks CBX I forgot that part...always drill them sandwiched (and clamped) together as a pair.  The leverage ratios are all a bit different so you have to experiment.  4mm might be right but you can't tell unless you mock it up or measure accurately with the rear wheel held in the desired (new) position. Cam.

cbxracer30:
http://www.koubalink.com/KX80.htm
I forgot about these, if your not very mechanical this might be your better bet. CBX

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