KX Riders
General => In General... => Topic started by: dave916 on September 29, 2011, 08:30:25 AM
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Any tips and settings for tig welding my cases, only done a couple of hours on the tig , never done alloy so any help on setting would be appreciated
got 1mm 4240a filler rod , 1+1.6mm white tip tungsten
main question would be the setting amps and Cleaning setting
and do i need to change the torch to the +polarity on AC setting
My welder does not have a foot pedal ,herae are a few pics THANKS
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/P1040120.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/tig1.jpg
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make sure all the seals around area are out the ali gets super hot , use clutch brake cleaner to clean out the crack or youl get shed loads of porosity,casings are crap to weld done my mates yz125 ..it was a struggle, i personaly would set up on a scrap piece of ali first ,ill try and find out some settings 2moz if thats any help ( i work for ozweld international).
dont forget to drill the end of the crack, stops it creeping...if its possible
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Anyone with a few base settings?
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You'll need to use the AC setting.
If you use brake cleaner, make sure it's NON-chlorinated. Chlorinated brake cleaner, when heated up and exposed to argon gas, can form a poisonous gas called phosgene. There was a big to-do on the Web a couple of years ago when a guy from Brew Racing Frames used chlorinated brake cleaner by accident and then began TIG welding on what he'd just cleaned. He got a small puff of the phosgene and it messed him up badly--his body began shutting down.
Here's a link to the story below:
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
I would guess around 80-100 amps. Is there a way to get a foot pedal on your machine? If so I would make the investment because it will make a world of difference--meaning it will be much easier to control the weld and thereby produce better results.
Aluminum dissipates heat very quickly, so you'll have to put a lot of heat into it to get the weld puddle started. The problem is that the heat can quickly build up to the point that it melts a hole in your cases if you can't control the heat input.
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You'll need to use the AC setting.
If you use brake cleaner, make sure it's NON-chlorinated. Chlorinated brake cleaner, when heated up and exposed to argon gas, can form a poisonous gas called phosgene. There was a big to-do on the Web a couple of years ago when a guy from Brew Racing Frames used chlorinated brake cleaner by accident and then began TIG welding on what he'd just cleaned. He got a small puff of the phosgene and it messed him up badly--his body began shutting down.
Here's a link to the story below:
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
I would guess around 80-100 amps. Is there a way to get a foot pedal on your machine? If so I would make the investment because it will make a world of difference--meaning it will be much easier to control the weld and thereby produce better results.
Aluminum dissipates heat very quickly, so you'll have to put a lot of heat into it to get the weld puddle started. The problem is that the heat can quickly build up to the point that it melts a hole in your cases if you can't control the heat input.
thanks i will wait till i get a pedal or maybe just pay someone as i dont want yo ruin a set of cases, been a bit windy here for outdoor tig welding, cheers