KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Verde Grande on August 31, 2011, 10:18:53 AM
-
Hey all,
Just thought I'd share a couple little tips that make things a touch easier.
I apologize for the crappy photos; I only had my iPhone with me today.
Ever had your day shortened when you fell on the right side of the bike and the brake lever
punched a small hole in the case? I have and it was a drag. Expensive, too.
So I take a preemptive measure by cutting a small piece of aluminum to the shape shown, give
it a little concave with a ball peen hammer so it matches the contour a little better, and
then epoxy it in place.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/mortophoto/KX500%20parts%20and%20stuff/IMG_1193.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/mortophoto/KX500%20parts%20and%20stuff/IMG_1189.jpg)
You know how when you're pulling the air filter, that top lip is loaded with dirt and sooner or later you're going
to drop some in the boot. Crap!!! I put a piece of tape that overlaps the filter just a little to prevent this. It's not really stuck to the filter so any airflow loss is negligible. You don't need to overlap it as much as shown here; I just did that for emphasis.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/mortophoto/KX500%20parts%20and%20stuff/IMG_1194.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/mortophoto/KX500%20parts%20and%20stuff/IMG_1195.jpg)
You're going to like this one! Everyone knows the 500 is a vibrating mofo and everyone knows about filling the bars with silicone. One day I had my subframe off and tossed it on the garage floor. It rang out like a tuning fork gone berserk. Hmmmmmmmm . . . . So I drilled a couple small holes and filled the subby with silicone. (I later realized that you can simply squirt the silicone in the various bolt inserts scattered throughout the subby. Oh well, live and learn.) It does help . . . a little. Not a lot; it's not the holy grail of vibration reduction but it does help just a touch.
(No photo for this mod.)
Morton, reporting for KXRiders, over and out.
Braaaapppppp!!
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f249/mortophoto/ChipCahuilla-071711-104-V2.jpg)
-
That clutch cover mod looks right nice, I was wondering what to do for mine.
I really like these little tricks , when I used to subscibe to dirt rider in the late 80's early 90's I came across this one. Put a cross hatch in your levers, you can use a file or hacksaw to do it. It gives you a better grip but the part I like best about it is that it gives the lever a spot to break when you lay it down on a lever. Then your atleast left with a stub & it can save your mastercylinder as well. I dont want to spring for the unbreakable lever set up, so I just use this & it works.
-
I put about a 3mm score in every clutch and brake lever i buy.. about 2'' from the end of the knob ... i should just invest in some asv levers
-
I like the clutch cover preventative patch. Looks better than a gob of jb weld that everyone seems to use after they crack their cover.
Mine has already been welded so if it happens again the crack will be somewhere else. If I ever need a new cover I will definitely do this mod. I crash a lot lol. Always pushing the limits of myself haven't found the K5's limits probably never will.
Thanks
-
I like the clutch cover mod and really like the tape on the filter lip!
-
i would do that clutch cover bit.... but not on the last brand new clutch cover i could find for my kx250
-
i think seeing as the 250 from 85 to 90 and 500 from at least 85 to 04 uses the same lower cradle shape its about time we had some wardy esque case saving bars bent as per Motorrads bike.the only difficulty here is making sure they clear the pipe being used as the pipes differ substantially and if you can you may as well make sure it protects the water pump whilst your at it.this is where pipe clearance becomes critical.gona look into this a bit deeper,may need some pipe/water pump clearance measurements though.(Ironically, my millet wont allow use of these,but they're a good idea).K.
-
Great mods and tips ! Even an old skool dirt bastard like me can learn something new and fresh ! Thanks for taking the time to share !
-
Hey dude next time you put a clutch pack on your 5, take your clutch housing to your nearest welder and have him weld your break on the inside. Looks alot better then your patch. I just cut my clutch and brake levers off two fingers deep. They dont stick out so far then. Dont break them as often either
-
Hey dude next time you put a clutch pack on your 5, take your clutch housing to your nearest welder and have him weld your break on the inside. Looks alot better then your patch.
Too risky. What happens if your brake lever wears through the case, and the welds on the inside are not 100% sealed ? Tranny fluid will leak, and now you need to weld again. What about possible metal to metal interference from the internal spinning clutch hub ? Sorry to pee all over your idea, but the brake pedal buffer on the outside is far more functional.
I just cut my clutch and brake levers off two fingers deep. They dont stick out so far then. Dont break them as often either
You must have gorilla finger strength, cause there is NO way I could ride a KX500 in the tight woods with a shory clutch lever ! Let alone stubby levers with the end balls sawed off. My final tip to minimise broken /bent levers is to leave the pinch bolts loose. Tighten the pinch bolts so it takes a good whack with your palm to get them the perch assembly to rotate. No more snapped levers, as the perch rotates upon a dirt impact.
-
I always pull out the clutch actuator arm and weld a 1 cm extension to it on every KX500 I have ever owned. It makes the clutch pull a lot easier and less fatigue late in the moto.
I also lubricate the circular sliding windows on the airbox every once in a while so that I can easily open them when I ride, and close them when I wash the bike.
-
Well lets see dude I own 9 k5s and 3 of them Ive welded myself. One I broke the others were broke already . Ive been running one of them for like four years, doesnt leak at all. I gues if you get some dumb ass to weld it then yes it will leak
-
Guess I do have strong fingers I been doing it for years, And da everbody leaves the levers a little loose. And that patch looks like s**t. I wont discrace my bike like that. Weld the inside. Grind it off pretty flush it wont hit the clutch basket. I know what I'm takeing about. When you own (9) K5's you learn alot.
-
I drink lots of red Bull... then pee in my gas.. gives the bike wings... (octane boost) Added benefit... if you eat lots of fried food.. you dont have to add 2T oil :-D
-
I drink lots of red Bull... then pee in my gas.. gives the bike wings... (octane boost) Added benefit... if you eat lots of fried food.. you dont have to add 2T oil :-D
Does this mean you had 9 Red Bulls? And now you are a Bull God? Please share some more. I would really like to hear about all (9) of them. :wink:
-
Well ok 86 87 88 89 92hillclimb bike 94practive hillclimb bike 99 02 and 04 which one do you want to talk obout
-
Sorry, I quoted Motorrad and was referring to his Red Bull addiction. But I'm all ears to hear any reviews of your bikes as well.
-
I was noticing how much my seat was wearing into my sub-frame this past winter,so I thought I would try this.I took some cheap foam rubber weather stripping that you can get at any hardware store...I got mine at Home-Depot,and put a thin layer of Yamabond on the contact points of the seat to sub-frame,and cut three pieces of weather stripping to fit.The weather stripping already has an adhesive backing,but it's just not strong enough to stay stuck on(reason for the Yamabond).So far,I've got around 40-50 hours on the 1st pieces I put on,and just now had to replace the right side one.Not only does it stop the wear on the sub-frame...but also cuts back on the vibrations to the ole cornhole :-D
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/HPIM0839.jpg)
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/HPIM0837.jpg)
-
I was noticing how much my seat was wearing into my sub-frame over the winter,so I thought I would try this.I just took some cheap foam rubber weather stripping that you can get at any hardware store...I got mine at Home-Depot,and put a thin layer of Yamabond on the contact points of the seat to sub-frame,and cut three pieces of weather stripping to fit.The weather stripping already has an adhesive backing,but it's just not strong enough.So far,I've got around 40-50 hours on the 1st pieces I put on,and just now had to replace the right side one.Not only does it stop the wear on the sub-frame...but also cuts back on the vibrations to the ole cornhole :-D
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/HPIM0839.jpg)
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/HPIM0837.jpg)
I have some really heavy duty 1/8" rubber sheets, let me know I can mail you some if you want to try some more durable rubber. Hey do you have some type of chain protector for the inside of your subframe ? The chain saws into the sub frame badly. I have a bunch of 1"X6"X .125" Teflon strips that I gave a buch out to other members. You rivet the teflon pad to the inside of your sub frame tube, no more issues. Let me know i'll mail you one.
-
Polar,I'd be willing to try out some of the rubber you have once I need to replace the strips I have on there now...I'm always willing to give anyones suggestions a shot.
For the left lower leg of the sub-frame,I bought a 2x6 galvanized joist hanger and cut one side off,it's an 1/8" thick,perfectly pre-bent 90 degrees...and pre-drilled.All I had to do was drill a few pilot holes in the frame.Then coated the threads of some self tappers with black RTV,ran a good bead of RTV the length of the hanger on both contact sides of the hanger and frame to help keep out water/moisture,and gently seated the self tappers with a cordless drill.
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/0809121301a1.jpg)
As you can see,there's hardly a scratch on it,and it's been on for just about a year.At this rate,it should last me the life I own the bike.
-
Polar,I'd be willing to try out some of the rubber you have once I need to replace the strips I have on there now...I'm always willing to give anyones suggestions a shot.
For the left lower leg of the sub-frame,I bought a 2x6 galvanized joist hanger and cut one side off,it's an 1/8" thick,perfectly pre-bent 90 degrees...and pre-drilled.All I had to do was drill a few pilot holes in the frame.Then coated the threads of some self tappers with black RTV,ran a good bead of RTV the length of the hanger on both contact sides of the hanger and frame to help keep out water/moisture,and gently seated the self tappers with a cordless drill.
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x393/foxx4afoxx/mxz-x/0809121301a1.jpg)
My subframe was really beat up when I got the bike. The p/o had a JUNK roller chain installed, and stretched floppy roller chains probably are what trash the inner sub frame. Now that i run a top shelf Regina ORN oring and keep the chain tension in spec, even my teflon pad has only slight scratches.
As you can see,there's hardly a scratch on it,and it's been on for just about a year.At this rate,it should last me the life I own the bike.
-
Yeah,that's how mine was too when I got it...it had a D.I.D X-ring that was more played-out than most of the women I've been with!.I'm with you on the Reginas,they've been my choice of chain since the early 90s...but when I started having issues with the case getting chewed up,I did some research on different chains.Part of the problem was it had a spanked 14T Sunstar front and the collar inside the shaft spline was worn,so it enabled the sprocket to woble a bit.So I replaced the o-ring,the collar,the C-clip,and put a new Renthal 14T on...the way the Renthal was designed/machined brought it out away from the case a little more than the Sunstar.Now for the chain,I ended up going with an RK-MXU-ring.....I know,NOT my favorite choice at all,but....it has a 9000lb tensile strength,which is good since my left hand suffers from a disease called "Groping the clutch too much"...where as the Regina was about a respectable 8400lbs,and the MXU is far narrower than any other O-ring I've seen and lighter at about 3.3 pounds.....and I gotta say,I've had it on there for roughly 8 months and only had to re-adjust it once after the 1st ride.I can honestly say,I'm impressed with RK for once.