KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: bigtwin100 on May 16, 2011, 03:12:49 AM
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Here's an old timer tip for sealing up that pesky exhaust port if your new orings don't do the trick. Wrap Teflon tape around the header pipe over the orings. Couple wraps should do it. You guy's probably know this but I've been doing this for years and it works excellent.
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Here's an old timer tip for sealing up that pesky exhaust port if your new orings don't do the trick. Wrap Teflon tape around the header pipe over the orings. Couple wraps should do it. You guy's probably know this but I've been doing this for years and it works excellent.
If your jetted spot on, and run 40:1 premix you should'nt have any leaking to begin with :wink:
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Here's an old timer tip for sealing up that pesky exhaust port if your new orings don't do the trick. Wrap Teflon tape around the header pipe over the orings. Couple wraps should do it. You guy's probably know this but I've been doing this for years and it works excellent.
If your jetted spot on, and run 40:1 premix you should'nt have any leaking to begin with :wink:
Well maybe that's why it works for me :wink:
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Here's an old timer tip for sealing up that pesky exhaust port if your new orings don't do the trick. Wrap Teflon tape around the header pipe over the orings. Couple wraps should do it. You guy's probably know this but I've been doing this for years and it works excellent.
If your jetted spot on, and run 40:1 premix you should'nt have any leaking to begin with :wink:
Well maybe that's why it works for me :wink:
all ball breaking aside, if you are experiencing excessive "spooge" blowing past the o rings you can probably lean your jetting a bit more and try a little less premix ratio. I do have a small amount of leakage, but nowhere near when i tried running stock jetting and 32:1 ...
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Thanks for the tip. I don't have alot of spooge but sometimes that port is worn and new orings don't seal and I hate globbing RTV on anything. I run 44:1 and probably going to go to 50:1
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Thanks for the tip. I don't have alot of spooge but sometimes that port is worn and new orings don't seal and I hate globbing RTV on anything. I run 44:1 and probably going to go to 50:1
Are you running stock jetting ? If you don't have the space to allow the engine to rev WO for longer periods, excessive spooge will also ba an issue. Try leaning your needle clip one position and see if that helps... 44:1 premix is right where you want to be, so im thinking jetting. Do you know for sure you have a healthy top end also ?
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It's just a tip. My jetting is fine. Just passing on a little trick
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Try rescue tape.(the stuff for fixing holes in radiator hose ) It will seal much better than teflon tape, and hold up to fuel exaust fumes and high temperature much better. You will only need one layer or so. Teflon tape is not meant for fuel/oil high temp. applications. this stuff IS. Personally though I use red RTV.
I have heard of putting an x-tra crush ring in to move the seating surface of the o-rings out slightly, so they are no longer in the grooves. But this may adversley effect perfomance by moving the pipe out from the head ever so slightly. Not sure, but if you could get them to seat in a different location that would get them to seal better. I would also condition ALL of my o-rings with dielectric grease(silicone jelly, R/C Car diff lube) prior to using them.
With a grooved exaust port even brand new o-rings will not seat properly without some sort of assistance. The only real way to solve the problem is have the walls of the port filled up with material (weld) and machined back to spec. ($$$) :wink:
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If you've got spooge blowing out, you've also got air, water, dirt, etc... being sucked back into the engine.
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Used to use this stuff back in the day on my 1985-86 and 88 CR125's. Works great.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p14700&leafCatId=&mmyId=
We would use it on both ends of the pipe, the exhaust flange and the silencer connection.
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Another tip. If your not getting a good sealing surface. There may be other issues.
Here's one.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7262.0.html
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Used to use this stuff back in the day on my 1985-86 and 88 CR125's. Works great.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p14700&leafCatId=&mmyId=
We would use it on both ends of the pipe, the exhaust flange and the silencer connection.
I used that stuff also. I didnt know it was still available!
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Used to use this stuff back in the day on my 1985-86 and 88 CR125's. Works great.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p14700&leafCatId=&mmyId=
We would use it on both ends of the pipe, the exhaust flange and the silencer connection.
I used that stuff also. I didnt know it was still available!
its not available. heres what it says
Order Info
Innovation Racing Exhaust Sealant Tape
Dennis Kirk Part #: 14700
This Product is No Longer Available
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I always had spooge out the silencer,but a lot of the decent oils you discuss,i never see em this side of the pond so ran castrol super tt at 32:1.everyday's a schoolday.
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Sorry, didnt say it was still available, just stated that it was what we used anyone with this issue and wants to use a fix of this nature, could Google "Chamber Seal" and come up with compareable products. Just throwing out ideas.
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Sorry, didnt say it was still available, just stated that it was what we used anyone with this issue and wants to use a fix of this nature, could Google "Chamber Seal" and come up with compareable products. Just throwing out ideas.
the flyin hawiian said that, but anyways im sure there are other brands just like you said
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Another tip. If your not getting a good sealing surface. There may be other issues.
Here's one.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7262.0.html
IS THIS OPTION STILL AVAILABLE BY ANYONE HERE? And what about just putting material back on by weld, then machining back to spec. Is that possible or are the sleeves the only way to do this???
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I'd say haveing a good flat seal against the copper washer/cylinder is very inportant. If your pipe is bent or twisted a little it changes that seal, some times loosening all your mounts and letting your pipe hang by the springs, then adjusting mounts/sometimes bending tabs on pipe for proper fit. I start from the front and then work my way back. It does take time, but a good mechanic doesnt rush things. Even brand new pipes dont fit perfect, they need adjusted/bent for proper fit, mostly the exhaust tabs/mounts on pipe.
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I'd say haveing a good flat seal against the copper washer/cylinder is very inportant. If your pipe is bent or twisted a little it changes that seal, some times loosening all your mounts and letting your pipe hang by the springs, then adjusting mounts/sometimes bending tabs on pipe for proper fit. I start from the front and then work my way back. It does take time, but a good mechanic doesnt rush things. Even brand new pipes dont fit perfect, they need adjusted/bent for proper fit, mostly the exhaust tabs/mounts on pipe.
Not sure which brand of pipes you're referring to,but I've been using Pro Circuit for just about 30 years,and FMF for 8 years....and I have never,never had to "bend" any "tab/mount" on any of them.Only loosen the rubber mount that attatches to the frame and to the pipe...and they fit and line up perfect,every time....never an issue....and I can assure you,that if I had bought more than two pipes that required "bending" of any kind...I would'nt buy them ever again,I'd just stick with stockers. Just my 2 cents.
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Well ok fox, I have had to bend tabs at times, both on pro circuit, and fmf, I havent given up on them there good pipes, My herd of k5's are not perfect, 86 87 88 89 92 94 99 02 and 04, But there all in pretty good shape. I've installed pipes (mounts) and some times the bolt distance center to center (hole in dampner) is different, (mount hole in frame) sometimes to short, sometimes to long. and yes I've played with these K5's for quite a few years. Thats how I've got a herd of them. JUst because manufactures dont make things absolutely perfect, doesnt mean I give up on them. I've bought after market sub frames, brand new and the ends were to fat, to go into the mounts on the frame, I had to grind them, and make them thinner to fit. I just make it work, and most of the time better then factory. Shoot I've been building exhaust mounts for years twice as strong and adjustable for manufacteries defects and crashes. I've swaped sub frames from old style to new style, swings arms the same,wheels, rear brakes, front fork, small dia to large. cylinders swaped back and forth. old style to new style, new style to old style. on on on on , Yes i've played with these old bikes, quite a few years. I ride them even more though, usually 4 times a week. tuesdays thursday sat sun. All year long, winter to. 15 degrees is chilly on a 500, note might consider rejetting at those temps. The bike gets pretty pingee at those temp. I really dont sweat the small stuff like you do, I just make it work. O did I forget to mention, I'm installing a 05 artic cat king cat 900 twin cylinder two stroke motor in a 200 k5 frame hillclimbing bike. 150hp stock. Whole new drive train, with jack shafts. Like I said I just make s**t work. And work well. I do not break down on my k5's, Where I ride its way up canyons. It would take all day to walk out. Here in Wyoming. Yep ive played with these old bikes. thanks
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Well ok then, your world is perfect mines not. I still have to bend them at times, but I'm not going to give up on neither manufctures pro circuit nor fmf. On any of my K5's 86 87 88 89 92 94 99 02 or 04. I've played with them also. And yes I've done alot of swaping around from old style bikes to newer style, more so on the 80's bikes, I just make stuff work and work right. Thanks though.
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Well ok fox, I have had to bend tabs at times, both on pro circuit, and fmf, I havent given up on them there good pipes, My herd of k5's are not perfect, 86 87 88 89 92 94 99 02 and 04, But there all in pretty good shape. I've installed pipes (mounts) and some times the bolt distance center to center (hole in dampner) is different, (mount hole in frame) sometimes to short, sometimes to long. and yes I've played with these K5's for quite a few years. Thats how I've got a herd of them. JUst because manufactures dont make things absolutely perfect, doesnt mean I give up on them. I've bought after market sub frames, brand new and the ends were to fat, to go into the mounts on the frame, I had to grind them, and make them thinner to fit. I just make it work, and most of the time better then factory. Shoot I've been building exhaust mounts for years twice as strong and adjustable for manufacteries defects and crashes. I've swaped sub frames from old style to new style, swings arms the same,wheels, rear brakes, front fork, small dia to large. cylinders swaped back and forth. old style to new style, new style to old style. on on on on , Yes i've played with these old bikes, quite a few years. I ride them even more though, usually 4 times a week. tuesdays thursday sat sun. All year long, winter to. 15 degrees is chilly on a 500, note might consider rejetting at those temps. The bike gets pretty pingee at those temp. I really dont sweat the small stuff like you do, I just make it work. O did I forget to mention, I'm installing a 05 artic cat king cat 900 twin cylinder two stroke motor in a 200 k5 frame hillclimbing bike. 150hp stock. Whole new drive train, with jack shafts. Like I said I just make s**t work. And work well. I do not break down on my k5's, Where I ride its way up canyons. It would take all day to walk out. Here in Wyoming. Yep ive played with these old bikes. thanks
LOL....where did you get that I "sweat the small stuff"?......I was just stating I've never had any issues with fitting pipes.For some of us it's easy.Instead of making accusations....why don't you try expressing your opinions,instead of trying to force your beliefs on others.
Don't take this the wrong way,but I get the impression you're quite an angry person on the "inside"....maybe I'm wrong IDK :?
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I'm not making any accusations at all. I've stated for me mounting a pipe can be a pain in the but. For you its just bolting that brand new pipe on. For me its bending exhaust mounts on pipe if nessecary. If those mount are installed under a load, they dont last near as long. Meaning if there crushed on one side and pulling on the other of the rubber part, your loading tension on that mount, and it wont last as long. So its not just bolting the pipe up and here we go. Most people do exactly that. Alot of people have the welded mounts on frame broke off to. K5's the one under the gas tank is the one that breaks the most that I've seen. If done correctly the reward is not near as many broken mounts/broken mounts on frame. Like I stated I like Pro Circuit/FMF buuuut I buy the torque pipe and there quite a bit larger in diameter, than a stock pipe, that means they stick out quite a bit more. Even easier to bend if you lay the bike down. As far as being angry not at all. I'm just stateing what takes place with K5's exhaust systems, and I have enough of them to finally figure them out. Cheers to you fox just bolt the pipe up, call it good.
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Cheers to you fox just bolt the pipe up, call it good.
my 95 still has the original mounts,never broke one....and I can tell you it has some time on it,and has been on it's side more than once.I'm running the FMF woods pipe.I learned a little tip from one of the local experts' mechanics 20+ years ago when I used to break the mount under the tank on my old beater 86 CR250.Run a rubber washer between the dampener,and where the dampener bolts to the frame mount....red Loctite and torque to 8 foot lbs......I was skeptical when he told me this,BUT,I never broke an exhaust frame mount ever again.....and there was no bending required :-o
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ok you dont bend yours. If mine need bent, because there not square or paralell or the right distance (short/long) I'll bent mine. One thing I like about this site is you or I can take advice or leave it. Its pretty simple.