KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: delphipro5 on May 05, 2011, 02:33:23 PM
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:evil: WELCOME :evil: This will take about a week before it really starts to get good. Waiting for my frame back and a final round of parts I ordered.
This thread will have the finish out of the build. :wink:
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It's good that you went with the Platinum 2. It is claimed that the 2 made 3 more hp at 7k RPM than everything else. I've never seen proof of this, but this is what someone with a dyno used to claim, so I'm just relaying that information.
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STILL WAITING! Need to get my frame back from coaters and some parts are taking longer than expected to arrive. BUT I need to get the mess in my shop cleaned up first anyway. So maybe it's a good thing. I think that Pro-circuit may be planning on stopping production of pipes for this bike(Out of stock, no expected arrival date. Don't sound too good!).... So get em while you can guys! :cry: What are they using for a pipe on the service honda bikes? Can you get(buy) them?
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Got my plat. 2 pipe from MOTOSPORT today NOT P. Circuit. I gotta say I do not think I will ever try to buy anything directly from p. circuit ever again. Bad service practices, Way too picky about online security(card problems+need to sign for package?? ups just leaves the stuff in my garage.) And they rip you on shipping!(Why use FedEx for something that will fit in a USPS Flat Rate Box??) And I think they are just about done with the 2t's. They acted like they really did not care about serving me at all. SO I guess it is time to start looking elsewhere, like FMF. But motosport treated me great, they had the pipe in stock and here it is. I just hope it fits!!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1245_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1247_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1248_1.jpg)
Getting the frame+parts back tomorrow, have pics of it then. NOW WE START FINAL ASSEM. :-D
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Got the engine lined up in the frame and tourqed. It looks ok, I'm not too thrilled with the p.coat job. It is VERY HARD to find a reputable powdercoater in my area! I wish I did not jump the gun! I called factory connection and asked them who did the coat job on the spring on the shock, and they gave me the name of the place that does all the p.coat for them! Unfortunatley this was AFTER I had already dropped it off to these guys! SUCK! From now on I will only use a coater I REALLY feel comfortable with. This coat job was junk. AND the guy that did the s.blasting was supposed to be a "bike guy" but he blasted the chrome off the mating surface of the pipe, and the machined oil grooves on the rear brake stud! There is dust all over the black parts too! JUNK!! :|
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1249_1.jpg)(Not the right color!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1250_1.jpg)(Little spray misses everywhere on the frame too!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1258_1.jpg)(Chrome mating surface gone!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1252_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1254_1.jpg)(Dust all over the black parts!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1260_1.jpg)(Not much of a match!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1255_1.jpg)(Pipe looks good though.)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1257_1.jpg)(Now I need to fix that crack!)
NUTS!!
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(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1272_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1273_1.jpg) There it sits!! :-o
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1264_1.jpg) And there HE sits!! lazy mutt's watching TV! :lol:
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I hope they didn't charge you for that job...
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Not trying to pee pee on your parade any more than has already fallen on you, but that is a pretty diappointing looking powdercoat job...to put it lightly. After you went through all the work to strip it down and go that far on the tear down, you want it done right the first time. Are you going to leave it like that? Sorry it came out crappy hope you get it done right looks like it will be a sick project.
Grey
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Wow sorry to hear that you got hosed, I know what it's like to expect something and then want to get going on it then someone doesn't do their part.
It looks like he gave you almost a ford powder blue when you wanted a majestic candy blue I had the same thing happen to all my powdercoating on my truck driveshafts were wrong so was anti sway bar.
Wrong color too light this is ford powder blue
(http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/46513/2429150290034986786S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2429150290034986786wxQaIY)
Should be this color so I feel you and had almost the same color issue.
(http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/9199/2365860450034986786S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2365860450034986786PYaLIP)
(http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/29397/2285241110034986786S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2285241110034986786cbPiIh)
My experience with a bad powdercoater is that they will just tell you to sue them and not take care of their mistake.
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Unfortunatley you are all right with what you have to say. I am not happy with the coat job at all,(worst coat job I have ever seen!) it is totally screwed and def NOT the color I was looking for.
But at this point I have not got the time to get it done right. I am going to put it together as is to break the engine in and dial all the fancy parts I have. And try to get some riding in this season. Now that I know what I know, and have the #'s to some guys that can do this work at the level I am looking to have it done, I am not worried. I know that next fall when the snow starts to fly again, I can pull this whole thing apart and have it done the way I really want it done. Engine work, P.coat all of it. I am finding things that are slight causes for concern. But at this point all I can do is get it back together and hope it does not go BOOM! And if it does then that gives me the reason to do the rebuild myself next time! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP AND INFO this build would not exist without this site.
And yes they charged me $290.00 for the s.blast,p.coat job! :x :x But I am not even going to call them ever again. They have already wrecked my frame and pipe and getting my $$ back won't change that. I feel it was the price I had to pay to learn this game too. my own damb stoopid fault!
Also by the look of it, they need the $$ a LOT more than I do!!
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Lets just skip all that bull and get to the good stuff! P. coat will get fixed later!
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LOL now that's the right attitude skip the bull and get to the good stuff :) the best thing to do is just not use them again and warn others but I have been looking forward to seeing your bike come together since I joined this site and would love to take on such a project but it's a tad out of my ability so I'll live vicariously through your project.
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Thank's for noticing! :-)
This is gonna go together as quick as I can make it happen, without screwing it up! no cut corners if I can help it! It's tough to work in and around this project too sometimes! The shop get's pretty messed up with REAL WORK! :-D You know the kind that brings $$ in the door... instead of making it go out! :lol: Luckily we have been getting fair work latley, but summer is here and for some reason it's always slow in the summer... less $$, but more time to RIDE! :evil:
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Yep :) always get the bills paid first and some shops get caught up playing and it's curtains and I must admit that I wish that I was able to do the kind of project you're doing I would love to be able to tear my bike down to nothing and start over making everything look perfect that's the way I like my bikes and I feel more confident knowing everything is right at 90+mph.
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Thank's for noticing! :-)
This is gonna go together as quick as I can make it happen, without screwing it up! no cut corners if I can help it! It's tough to work in and around this project too sometimes! The shop get's pretty messed up with REAL WORK! :-D You know the kind that brings $$ in the door... instead of making it go out! :lol: Luckily we have been getting fair work latley, but summer is here and for some reason it's always slow in the summer... less $$, but more time to RIDE! :evil:
I would redo your powder coat job now. after the bike is done, each time you see the crap powder coat job you will not be happy or other people see it. Plus if you do it down the road only the parts your redo will look new and the other parts will look used finish. When its done it will look new and then you can go get it dirty.
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Unfortunatley, some coners may get cut. I have been busy with work and I have little time. I really want to get this thing ridable this season. I have a riding get-together in sept. to bring it to, And would like it broken in by then! Doin my best, more pics soon!
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Cutting corners is never good...
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For instance I am not going to replace the rear brake pads just because I want them to say renthal on them!! The ones that are in the caliper now are fine. bareley worn at all. So there is one coner cut! It's things like that I mean. Or respoking the wheels just cuz the spokes have brake dust and minor surface corrosion on them... things like that I mean.... Gotta reign in my anal if I ever want this thing done! Can always fix it in the winter. Thinking new rims with street slicks on em! :-o :evil: :-o now that sounds like fun! NEXT YEAR~!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1278_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1279_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1280_1.jpg)
Not sure why the frame looks so baby blue in the pics. It's a lot darker in person.
Gettin somewhere!
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It looks fantastic delphi and I don't ever see myself tearing the bike down like that but hats off to those who can do it I will have to outsource a few things from suspension to internal engine work this winter :(
Are the triple clamps stock angle? just wondering what benefit the aftermarket clamps give besides looking awesome.
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Wow, a K5 frame that still has the upper pipe mount tab in tact ? Are you $hitting me ? Now that's a VIRGIN frame.... (or already been repair welded) :-D
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Yeah, this thing was well taken care of! Came apart like butter, didnt have to force a thing! Unfortunatley, the pipe cracked before the mount did! :lol:
O.K. Been busy and weather has been awesome, so I have been spending any free time in the day riding the KLX on the street, LOTS of fun. BUT I have been doing my best to provide some eye candy for you guys, so here goes :
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1304_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1305_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1308_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1301_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1296_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1298_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1307_1.jpg)
Everything has been going together nice! looks balls out. The brakes came out great and I have a spare set of calipers I will rework in the meantime. Did not get a good shot of the speed bleeders on the forks, but they are there. Everythings going smooth at this point! :wink: I have really been trying to go over this thing with "a fine tooth comb" as I assemble, to make sure it is done correctly. And I am beginning to gain some confidence that I actually know what I am doing here! Cant wait to get my muff back from bristol pack and yell thru it to see if any sound comes out the other side! :lol:
I have been dreaming up a build like this for over 14 years. I am so happy to see it happening! 8-)
By the way, the only gain in the aftermarket clamps is they are a little stiffer in fork torsion. And look wild. :-D
Next up- Carb. work, airbox, and subframe/ kickstand.
Then- Radiators and hoses, and electricals/ cables, controls.
Last- Body panels, tank, seat, and Stickers! :roll:
:evil: FIRE THIS BEAST FROM THE EAST UP :evil:
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I Have some info about this Carb.
It is a C.P.W. 39.5mm PWK.
C.P.W. supposedly does the carbs. for service hondas 500's And this is supposedly set up the same as those carbs are. So I gave it a look today and this is what I found:
39.5 PWK
SLIDE= #7
Needle= DE K
Clip position= 3rd down from top of needle
MAIN= #170
SLOW= #85 !!CORRECTION!! = #58 (06/10/11)
AIRSCREW= Out one turn. (not even a full turn out really!)
Fuel level= 2mm ABOVE float bowl mating surface.
Now here are the stock settings from the manual.
39mm PWK
Slide, they call it throttle valve cutaway= #7
Needle= N82M
Clip Position= 3rd down from top of needle
MAIN= #168
SLOW= #58
AIRSCREW= 2 full turns out
Fuel level= 1mm BELOW float bowl mating surface.
I just figured I would relay this information to see what you thought might not be set right on the carb. The fuel level seems to be high to me.
Check out my fuel level test jig:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1315_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1316_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1317_1.jpg)
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Looks fantastic delphi!
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Looking Good Amigo!
You have lot's of goodies I would like to have that's for sure. :-D
There is a Team Green Jetting chart (around here somewhere) that has been an excellent place to start if you didn't
start with the stock jets. (I'll look and post back on that) I'm defineatly no tuner, but a #68 pilot ?
Maybe they thought you were running alcohol at the Ice Races :|
You'll have her up and running in no time at this pace.
Tuck\o/
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Looking Good Amigo!
You have lot's of goodies I would like to have that's for sure. :-D
There is a Team Green Jetting chart (around here somewhere) that has been an excellent place to start if you didn't
start with the stock jets. (I'll look and post back on that) I'm defineatly no tuner, but a #68 pilot ?
Maybe they thought you were running alcohol at the Ice Races :|
You'll have her up and running in no time at this pace.
Tuck\o/
Not a #68 pilot, an #85 ! stock is saying #58 (CORRECTION: IT'S A #58, 06/10/11)
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I bet you can almost feel that first ride approaching fast :) I hate waiting for parts and fab work but it's worth it in the end.
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A #85 pilot is huge!!! I could see a lot of fouled plugs with it and a lot of splooj out the tail pipe.
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I sent them a message and they said they put a #55 in. but I looked again today with a magnifier and Beyond a reasonable doubt it says "(star) 8 5 ".....
That is an #85 jet! I think they made a mistake. Now I have to do carb. settings before I go any further. Poopie :x Need a little time....
O.K. I just talked to him on the phone and he says that it is a #55 jet? He has run the company for 30 years and has never had an #85 jet in the wherehouse... Well my eyes do not often decive me and it says #85 so it must be a misprint or a mistake.... He said the airscrew will be different for every bike so I guess I will dial that later.....And he did not seem to care about the fuel level being high...... I don't get it... I really don't.... should I at least bring the fuel level down??? :???? craphole. I got some figurin to do!
Oh yeah, I think my steering damper is crap too.... so that is going back to scotts to be looked at.
And just for the F#@K of it I called falicon to see where they put the balance factor of the crank and the dude told me "somewhere between 55% and 60%"
So at least that sounds right...
Assembly, one step forward two steps back! :lol: :wink:
!!!!!UPDATE: MY MISTAKE! #58 SLOW!!!!!
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Yea i'm thinking misprint. There is NO way that engine will start and idle clean with an 85 pilot ! :-o
I run a 55 in the spring and fall, and a 52 in the hot summer. Correct pilot selection is critical with the big K5 being starting friendly.
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O.K. UUUMMMM Back Up HE-HE-HE Little mistake :roll: It has a #58 slow... Let me explain, I was looking at the wrong thing due to not having had many of these carbs opened up. (maybe 2 at best!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1323_1.jpg) This is what I was looking at! (Airjet?? what is this?) it's an #85
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1331_1.jpg) #170 Main Jet
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1332_1.jpg) And a #58 Slow Jet (he said it was a #55)
SO... My Bad.... just a mistake... just a mix up... I still think I will bring the fuel level down 2mm
I just want it as close as possible before putting it in. I will probably have it in tomorrow.
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Hey D-Pro 5,
No Harm No Foul, That's why most of us are here!
I think most of the guys will concur that the float level will defiantly be a factor in your jetting. It won't take long to get it sorted out.
I found the Team Green chart lots of guys have started out with for some reference.
http://www.teamgreennews.ca/pdf/KX_Tech_Jetting.pdf
Tuck\o/
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Yea i'm thinking misprint. There is NO way that engine will start and idle clean with an 85 pilot ! :-o
I run a 55 in the spring and fall, and a 52 in the hot summer. Correct pilot selection is critical with the big K5 being starting friendly.
Polar is probably correct with the Pilots that would work for you too. You will probably find that the Main will need leaned out a size or two. These guys are setting you up a little fat, probably so you are on the safer side of things.
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Thought you might like these shots. The venting is not really finished correctly... ran out of hose! They need to be longer, only the blue one makes it to the bottom and has it's one way. I know this is complete overkill but I think it looks slick! like im takin it to the dragstrip every weekend or something! I dreamed this all up over the winter and I have to admit... The snow may have just been getting to my head or something! :lol:
Does look cool though, with the little vent filters and stuff.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1350_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1351_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1345_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1348_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1346_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1347_1.jpg)This is what they all should do! I'll fix it later... :roll:
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WoW I thought some one would respond saying how rediculous that looks! :lol: Not sure if im gonna keep it like this... like I said it's just something I was cooking in my head in the dead of winter. :-) not really needed! It's not like I'm gonna be doing triple backflips on this thing!
Not intentionally anyway!! :lol: :-D
It's too bad for new members that we are under cyber attack! Anything we can do to help?? Hold down the fort!
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What is that in the last picture? Chain oiler? Where does the oil come from?
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WoW I thought some one would respond saying how rediculous that looks! :lol: Not sure if im gonna keep it like this... like I said it's just something I was cooking in my head in the dead of winter. :-) not really needed! It's not like I'm gonna be doing triple backflips on this thing!
Not intentionally anyway!! :lol: :-D
It's too bad for new members that we are under cyber attack! Anything we can do to help?? Hold down the fort!
You are going to install a lower chain roller I hope ?
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Pegger,
I think that is the crankcase vent with a check valve vent. I'll try to find the website. It is a good Idea.
Lets the pressure out and keeps any water or dirt from working its way back in your engine.
Tuck\o/
I knew I'd seen them somewhere...
http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/intakeandcarburetor.htm
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Pegger,
I think that is the crankcase vent with a check valve vent. I'll try to find the website. It is a good Idea.
Lets the pressure out and keeps any water or dirt from working its way back in your engine.
Tuck\o/
No, it's the purge valve for the Nitrous.. :evil:
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Pegger,
I think that is the crankcase vent with a check valve vent. I'll try to find the website. It is a good Idea.
Lets the pressure out and keeps any water or dirt from working its way back in your engine.
Tuck\o/
I knew I'd seen them somewhere...
http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/intakeandcarburetor.htm
Yup Yup, That is where I got the one-ways and the carb vent hose. Thats a one way on the carb bowl overflow. When it's done they will all hang down with the one-ways on them. And the little blue things are vent filters, Stainless mesh. The clear blue hose is the crank vent, Which will also be routed up to a filter. But no one-way on that. Kevins cycle is right in Mass. so it's quick delivery on parts. he's got a lot of stuff too!
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I got to hand it to you Dpro,
It will sure be pretty when she's done! There are quite a few guys who have outstanding machines on the site.
I knew I wouldn't be able to have an AC Cobra, GT 500, Hemi-Cuda or the like with one of those Nelson Racing engines.
http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/engines/chevy.html (you should check out the You tube videos)
But I knew I could have that kind of a DirtBike!
Tuck\o/
I shall not covet my neighbors stuff...I shall not covet my neighbors stuff.... :lol:
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Finally got the sub-frame and airbox on.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1353_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1355_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1354_1.jpg)
Hit a little snag with the kickstand... The top bolt they supply with the stand is too short (25mm) and it ate the first 2 threads out of the weld nut when I tourqed it down... So If you have one of these stands get a 30mm bolt for the top so this does NOT happen. :| I also made my own sleeve that is longer than the supplied one from pro-moto, so now it goes all the way thru both frame ears and the sub-frame. I also drilled the top hole on the stand to accept the sleeve. I cut some 10mm O.D. x 1mm Wall- tubing, to 15mm length for the sleeve. (All Stainless) So now it goes all the way thru the stand, Frame, and sub-frame. To position everything perfect, and take the shear strain off the bolt and weld nut. Like it should! :wink: I also cut a bolt to 33mm and put a thin backing nut on, for extra insurance.
If anyone has one of these stands, I have a bunch extra hdw and correct size tubing all in S.S. If you want me to make a set up to get it right. All you would need to do is drill out the top hole to 10mm(25/64ths) on a drill press and I'd make the hdw. kit. it really is the way it SHOULD be done!
I will post picks of the whole setup later, so you can see what it is im doing here. :wink:
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I should have mentioned that the bolts they send with the pro moto kickstand are too short but if you ask them for the longer bolts they will send them out to you for $4 plus shipping.
Looks real nice delphi and if you are in the market for rollers the TM designs rollers are real nice and at a great price.
They roll much smoother than the stock ones and the chain rides perfectly on the rollers just a thought if you haven't bought rollers yet.
http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_195_166&products_id=324
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Well, well, well :x NO SPARK! NOTHING! I am having trouble with my ign. I think my CDI is toast! Got it all together and checked the ground continuity and all the wires for breaks and shorts. All looks fine. :? Took the plug out and laid it on the the head, cranked er' over a few times good and nothing! :? Checked it over again, shut off the lights :lol: Cranked er'...NOTHING... What to do.... $325 bucks for new parts :roll: oh boy here we go- maybe I should just buy the MZB Ign. that alwards got and stop wasting my time here!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1373_2_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1380_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1381_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1378_1_1.jpg)
?????????????????????????????????? :????????????????????????????????
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Sounds good to me!! I have a CDI, coil, stator I could send for troubleshooting. I am not using them. Or we could compare ohm's. Let me know what I can do to help.
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I see the coil has a good chassis ground, how about the engine case to frame ? Remember the stator is internally grounded via the crankcase....
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Yeah check that paint isn't fouling a ground. Been there after a rebuild involving repainting the frame.
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Went back today and really looked into it, wiggled the wires real good, waved my magic wand :wink:... and vahlla! Good bright well timed spark!! Don't ask me what I did but I got it workin :-D So on to the next head skratcher i guess! Promise not to post till I have made some real progress! Been having trouble finding the time to feed myself latley! Not enough hours in the day! Time to scrounge up some din din.
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Sure does look purdy delphi and the finished product will be well worth it for years of trouble free riding :) I see you have a chain slider what brand did you use?
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Mine had several bad connections in those junky bullet connectors... Redid all connections with marine grade spade lock...
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A friendly tip from experience :
Always make sure you have a tight bullit connection. Sometimes the female connector can get "spread open" :-D and cause a suspect connection. I also strongly recommend silicone die-electric grease on all your connections !
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(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1390_1_1.jpg) Flushed and bled brakes. VERY positive response now!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1402_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1405_1.jpg) Break guards on.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1398_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1399_1.jpg) FINALLY, it's down off the stand. It's first steps as a newborn. :-D
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1400_1.jpg)Crank vent filter, billet oil plug. OVERKILL! :-D
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1384_1.jpg)Radiator overflow filter. OVERKILL! :lol:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1397_1.jpg)Extra fuel line filter. OVERKILL! :roll:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1396_1.jpg) I have a filter on EVERY vent and fuel hose on this bike! :lol: :roll:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1406_1.jpg) ITS GETTING THERE!
It looks plain without the stickers I plan on putting on. Controls came out really nice, looks killer. Still waiting on my muffler and steering damper to come home on the brown truck. And getting the spacer for the ign. cover soon so the nice factory racing cover will go on instead of the plastic stockie. Pipe is going on tomorrow, filled the tranny with oil today so I don't forget it!!! :wink: Lot more tweeking and fiddling to do though, I'd say 12 more days and this beast will roar. :evil:
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:-D
Very Nice!
I would hate to get her dirty, But I couldn't wait to take her out and see what she could do! :lol:
Tuck\o/
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Beautiful , stickers are overrated. X2 on dielectric, keeps things from corroding. The old blue fork shells would go voondebah
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PIPE WENT ON LIKE BBUUTTAAHH!! :lol:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1407_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1419_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1412_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1414_1.jpg)
MOUNTED RIGHT UP NO PROBLEM.
Check out my fancy shmancy kill button! Little tough to get to in a hairy situation but I like the look of it on the break side. :roll:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1416_1.jpg)
:-o :-D I AM GIDDIE WITH ANTICIPATION AT THIS POINT. LOOKS LIKE IT WILL BE RUNNING SOONER THAT I THOUGHT! :evil: :evil:
Will try to post a high quality video of it running(probably on youtube.) with the best audio I can get on it, so you can really hear what it sounds like.
COMING SOON!
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Outstanding delphi and I am looking at those hoses right now very sharp keep up the good work.
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Got my P.C. spark arrestor/muffler back from Bristol-Core. Sent it to them for a re-pack, and so they could set up a kit for this type of muffler. Good hook up from sniper1. I will give a good review of the product here on this site soon. Thinking of sending them my oem muff so they can make a kit for that too.
This packing is QUALITY! I can already tell. Thinking of having my oem muff. cut down 4-5" too. With this packing you could get away with it without being way too loud! Good stuff.
Still waiting on a few last requests such as my S. damper. It had to go back to Scotts for a base-valve replace. VERY STRANGE! I have no idea what happened to it. I barely even had it out of the box! :? But it's fixed and will be here on Wed. I believe.
And, I have a machining place making a spacer for the ign. cover so I can use the boyesen cover with the steathy flywheel weight... I went there today, my drawing and my pipe(brought that too, to have the crack welded) Are still sitting on the floor where I left them! Too busy to get to it I guess... It's been weeks. :x
BUT I DONT NEED ANY OF THAT TO START IT UP AND BREAK IT IN SO THAT I WILL BE DOING VERY SOON.
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Had a crazy day today. No time. Got my damper back and installed. works good on the stand. :-D
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1437_1.jpg)
And no the crossbar does not contact the damper at all. so it shoud be ok with these bars. It is a TIGHT FIT though! :wink:
BUT I HAVE AN ISSUE (AGAIN)...
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1435_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1436_1.jpg)
Filled it up with coolant the other day and now it is leaking from 4 of the 9 head studs. :?
Keep in mind this is a brand new build that has not been run yet... So I am wondering if maybe I should not have put the coolant in till I was ready to start it up and warm things up.
What I am asking is- Is this a problem that will go away once I have broken it in a bit and got everything warmed up and seated in place. OR... Is this serious cause for concern that should be adressed NOW BEFORE I FIRE IT UP? :?
Hope you guys can give me a little input here. I popped the rad. cap to see how much I had lost and it's not much at all. So at least I know my cylinder is not filled to the brim with coolant! :? :x :?
I DID SOME MORE RESERCH ON HERE AND IT SEEMS OTHERS HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM TOO. I'm thinkin' runna and retighten head nuts after break-in.
I did mount the engine in the frame and tourqed the frame to head mount prior to doing anything else. Could this be the problem? If so, what would the fix be? loosen head mount and retourqe head nuts, then tighten mount again? :?
SHOULD I BE WORRIED? BECAUSE AT THIS POINT I'M NOT REALLY :lol: !!!!HELP!!!!
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Never seen that happen after a fresh gasket, especially without the bike even running. I can only see the problem getting worse once it starts building up pressure. Did you lap the head?
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Loosen the mount and then torque the head in the proper sequence and to the proper torque. The head gasket is easy to replace if it leaks after you start it. If it leaks now, it will only get worse when in runs since added heat means added pressure. PV=nRt for those engineering folk
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Pull the head back off, pull the studs back out. Now when installing the studs use a quality thread sealant. (On the side that goes into cyl)
Put the head back on and I bet your problem goes away.
Bob W
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Pull the head back off, pull the studs back out. Now when installing the studs use a quality thread sealant. (On the side that goes into cyl)
Put the head back on and I bet your problem goes away.
Bob W
That wont help you... No thread sealant needed.
Will only mask the problem..
The K5 has Blind Holes...
Will answer better when not on my phone...
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This head was gone over by "larry the compression release guy" himself and was in great shape before I sent it to him... The cylinder went to millennium coatings to be replated.... And then the whole thing was rebuilt by a reputable :roll:.... engine builder in my area... new oem gasket... I really think it's just the top engine mount.. I will loosen it and retighten the head nuts to correct tourqe and then retighten the top engine mount.... I really hope that solves the problem... It would blow to have to pull the engine apart again right now... 3 of the 4 that are leaking are the ones directly around that engine mount. :|
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First off, I personally would be concerned. AF should NOT be leaking past the head studs. This "usually" is a tell tale sign of a warped head. If the AF is leaking outside the head, it could be potentially leaking into the cylinder, and down into your crankcase as well. Did this engine run good before the major overhaul ?
When I did my complete top end back in 2008, my engine was in great shape, really didn't even need a top end in hindsight, but after a good cleaning and all fresh OEM gaskets and parts, my engine went together perfect, and still runs perfect today.
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Good Morning Delphi,
Something the guys who have built engines with bigger H.P. numbers all recommend was to lap the head and the cyl.
and chamfer (or counter sink) the cyl. head studs.
As you torque down the head, the studs tend to pull a small ridge up from around the stud itself where it exits the cyl.
And I have had to learn the hard way :| over-torquing the bolts will cause the head to leak.
I'm sure its something simple.
Tuck\o/
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Good Morning Delphi,
Something the guys who have built engines with bigger H.P. numbers all recommend was to lap the head and the cyl.
and chamfer (or counter sink) the cyl. head studs.
As you torque down the head, the studs tend to pull a small ridge up from around the stud itself where it exits the cyl.
And I have had to learn the hard way :| over-torquing the bolts will cause the head to leak.
I'm sure its something simple.
Tuck\o/
If this were true, I would think the af would then tend to leak from between the head gasket ? But hey, a simple lesser head "re-torque" wont cost a dime ! I'd be very curious if this is the issue...
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perhapse your head and Jug were warped... together.... now your head is TRUE and straight.. and your Jug isnt..
As far as I know... no plater checks the gasket surfaces for warpage.. so just because you sent it to them.. doesnt mean anything.. Its your job to check that stuff.
also i like to torque the head like the kips end of the head wasnt there... just torque it like a normal head... .then torque the kips portion last...
a cut and paste from my motor build.. head was TRUE...
Checked the fit of the head to barrel... (while waiting for crank to get cold in the freezer, and sockets to get hot in the oven)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4863.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4864.jpg)
Which resulted in
Lapping the head to the barrel..
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4865.jpg)
And put the crank in the cases... (Hoooray, bottom end is DONE).
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4869.jpg)
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also forgot to add... Im not a fan of the OEM Fiber gaskets..
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perhapse your head and Jug were warped... together.... now your head is TRUE and straight.. and your Jug isnt..
As far as I know... no plater checks the gasket surfaces for warpage.. so just because you sent it to them.. doesnt mean anything.. Its your job to check that stuff.
also i like to torque the head like the kips end of the head wasnt there... just torque it like a normal head... .then torque the kips portion last...
a cut and paste from my motor build.. head was TRUE...
Checked the fit of the head to barrel... (while waiting for crank to get cold in the freezer, and sockets to get hot in the oven)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4863.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4864.jpg)
Which resulted in
Lapping the head to the barrel..
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4865.jpg)
And put the crank in the cases... (Hoooray, bottom end is DONE).
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/Kxmotor%202/DSC_4869.jpg)
+1, Check the cylinder & the Head. I am sure you will find that at least one is not flat.
Just my $.02
DoldGuy
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It would have been my job to check if I didn't have some one else rebuild the engine! I thought he might have known a little bit about this being an engine guy. I retourqed the head nuts with the engine mounts loose and I went up to 22 ft-lbs. and they did not budge. so i think he may have overtightened them and caused it to leak! we shall see if what i did today helps. I WILL NEVER AGAIN LET ANYONE TOUCH ANY OF MY STUFF.... I guess I have finally graduated to doing it all myself if I am to take on anything like this again. Should have known that trying to save myself time I would have cost myself time. Not my first rodeo but I acted like it was and now it's biting me in the ass!
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Polar, I'm sorry I don't understand what difference is if your using a steel frame or an aluminum frame.
I have no formal training, and don't want to spread bad info, so I am wide open to finding out the truth.
The head gets torqued to the cyl and then the head stay is tightened. Are you saying the head stay is pulling the head away from the cyl. and causing the leak due to frame flex? It seems hard to believe, but hey stranger things have happened...
And if this is the case, what is the corrective action?
Thanks for your patients, I like I said I don't want to spread bad dope.
Ohh Dear.... What the heck, No more posting until AFTER my meds kick in!
Thank you again MoRad for the Photo layout, a pic is worth a thousand words!!
Tuck\o/
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Polar, I'm sorry I don't understand what difference is if your using a steel frame or an aluminum frame.
I have no formal training, and don't want to spread bad info, so I am wide open to finding out the truth.
The head gets torqued to the cyl and then the head stay is tightened. Are you saying the head stay is pulling the head away from the cyl. and causing the leak due to frame flex? It seems hard to believe, but hey stranger things have happened...
And if this is the case, what is the corrective action?
Thanks for your patients, I like I said I don't want to spread bad dope.
Thank you again MoRad for the Photo layout, a pic is worth a thousand words!!
Tuck\o/
Tuck, I think Polar Bus was saying Antifreeze with the AF used as short.
DoldGuy
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Yeah, I get flustered easy. Sorry to all that have to listen to me bitch. :lol:
It looks to me to be solved. I the loosened the engine mounts, and retourqed stud the nuts, then retightened the engine mounts bottom to top. Have not noticed it leak yet since. I only lost about 9ml of fluid from what I can tell.
I will see what it looks like when I get back to the shop tomorrow morning.
Was going to fire it up this afternoon, but the weather is SOOO humid up here right now! :x I would rather it be a crisp, sunny, 75deg. day for initial; break-in. But thats like a needle in a haystack this year! Weather has sucked up here for the last 2 months! And I got on the oil conundrum again as far as break-in goes. Then finally settled on using VP's S.E.F. 94 fuel mixed 40:1 with Golden Spectro semi-synthetic oil. Have used it my whole life and always will. As far as break-in with it, it does have a true petrolieum fraction to it. I don't think It will cause trouble with the rings not seating. After going over it a 1000 times, this was the best mix I can come up with.(for my break-in)
Still. will be doing most of my engine work myself from now on.
The battle continues................
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Yeah, I get flustered easy. Sorry to all that have to listen to me bitch. :lol:
It looks to me to be solved. I the loosened the engine mounts, and retourqed stud the nuts, then retightened the engine mounts bottom to top. Have not noticed it leak yet since. I only lost about 9ml of fluid from what I can tell.
I will see what it looks like when I get back to the shop tomorrow morning.
Was going to fire it up this afternoon, but the weather is SOOO humid up here right now! :x I would rather it be a crisp, sunny, 75deg. day for initial; break-in. But thats like a needle in a haystack this year! Weather has sucked up here for the last 2 months! And I got on the oil conundrum again as far as break-in goes. Then finally settled on using VP's S.E.F. 94 fuel mixed 40:1 with Golden Spectro semi-synthetic oil. Have used it my whole life and always will. As far as break-in with it, it does have a true petrolieum fraction to it. I don't think It will cause trouble with the rings not seating. After going over it a 1000 times, this was the best mix I can come up with.(for my break-in)
Still. will be doing most of my engine work myself from now on.
The battle continues................
Well this is a good initial observation (no leaks) but bear in mind, once the engine is up to operating temps your cooling system builds approx 16 psi of pressure. If there is still an issue, this is when you will see it. If you see no external leaks hot, thats even better. Keep an eye on your AF ( this abbr means ANTI-FREEZE, not ALUMINUM FRAME :-D ) level , if AF is disappearing pull your plug and smell it if it smells sweet like AF you still are leaking AF past the head gasket internally.
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I did a three heat cycle break-in today, then ran it for about 8 min. with a few good revs at the end then shut her down. :-D
This is what I will use for the break-in and first few tanks of fuel. Mixed at first to 40-42:1 and working up to 46-48:1
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1444_1.jpg)
Then move on to running C-10 mixed with G.S. oil 48-50:1
From what I can tell the weeping at the studs is minimal to none now.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1448_1.jpg) This was after it was hot the 2nd cycle.
I have lost more An. fr. from the drain tube than anywhere else? I think it may have been a little overfull to begin with, but I have not had to add any yet. Runs good, I don't smell any an. fr. burning in the exaust smoke so I think all is good for now.
This thing is heating up quick! and gets hot! I have it just sitting still which does not help to cool the rads. And break-in causes extra heat so maybe that is why it is spitting coolant from the overflow a bit.
And it still is a vibrating beast from what I can tell so far... Just sitting on it for the last 8 min. run my hands and ass were numb! :x It's the kind of vibe that shakes nuts and bolts loose and liquifies your forearms. NO real change from before... maybe this will go away when riding at operating RPMS???
Oh well, we shall see... when I take it for it's first ride on saturday.
I have a video of the break in but I still cant get it on my comp. not working for some reason?
All in all it feels and sounds VERY Strong! :evil:
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its spitting af out the overflow because your getting blow by going through the gasket and into the water jacket causing excessive pressure in your cooling system. willing to bet its got af in the combustion chamber :-(
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Did you bleed the head with the bleeder screw? If you didnt, the air bubble at the top of the head could make the motor run dangerously hot.
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flyingfitz is quite on the money. When we install , at work, a newly rebuilt motor you must bleed the air pocket out of the head. 350 chevys you just leave off the theremostat housing & fill to there , 6cyl jeeps have have a heat temp sensor you leave out till it spews, fords are a heater hose fitting...... If you didnt bleed you could have really warped the head on the first fire up.
Also have you replaced the head gasket with all this torqing & retorking. They're pretty well made to bolt down once, with clean prepped surfaces. If you get oilly af on the gasket your pretty well fighting a lost battle in my expierience . I have reused before but you pull the gasket clear out, carb clean surfaces & the gasket, then coppercoat the hell out it on both, or all 6 sides if its the 3 layer . & I would only recommend this on MLS/steel or copper that aint been run long
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Never took the original tourqe off the nuts. never loosened them. just loosened the engine mounts and put a tourqe wrench to the nuts up to 22 ft.-Lbs. then tightened the engine mounts again. ran it for the break-in. leaking stopped. rode it all day today no coolant lost. have not had to put any in at all. so obviously I didnt lose that much. it was well bled, and looks clean. THANK GOD! :lol:
So far so good. Had it do something funky to me one time when I came back to the truck today. I was revving it in neutral and the engine grabbed and made this weird spooling noise... Trust me I was not happy, I got it on vid too! :| But I ran it again after checking it as best I could and it ran fine no problems. Got on it pretty hard at the end of the day and it didnt do anything weired so I really don't know what that was about. :?
Runs good really, popped a pretty nasty wheelie in 4th today.... wasnt even trying to! :-D you could say it's got some power! :evil:
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(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1459_1.jpg) Heading There.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1466_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1467_1.jpg) At the trails.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1468_1.jpg) Heading home.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1469_1.jpg) Finally got it dirty. (well, dusty at least!)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1471_1.jpg) This is what came off the magnetic drain plug. Not bad for a break-in.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1473_1.jpg) The oil looked O.K. and I got 800ml out. I put in 800ml., so thats good.
Here are the links to the vids:
http://youtu.be/ckhqQlsfaFg
http://youtu.be/jKs6VmcdJdI
http://youtu.be/Lwm4dduS7es
http://youtu.be/7YEp9qOnwAs
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Does anyone have any insight as to what this may have been?? Looking at the vid again, I was getting on it too much for being in neutral, on only about it's 5th mile of driving. If you whatch close you can see the bike try to pull itself forward right when the noise happens. Immeidiatly I hit the kill. ran O.K. all day after this too... no slip in the clutch. Also the tranny is so close now, feels brand new! neutral is so small between 1st and 2nd it's tough to find.
:?Maybe the tourqe from the revvs made it drag on second gear somehow. :? Don't know for sure.
Chk It out: http://youtu.be/jKs6VmcdJdI
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its spitting af out the overflow because your getting blow by going through the gasket and into the water jacket causing excessive pressure in your cooling system. willing to bet its got af in the combustion chamber :-(
I had a bad head gasket and it did exactly this. It ran just fine but would almost instantly start dripping out of the overflow on a cold start up. Once it was warm, mine sealed so I only lost a little coolant at first. I thought it was the rad cap but it did nothing. I replaced the head gasket with a cometic and it was fixed.
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Ran it all day again today..... runs fine..... except for the fact that my rear wheel just spins on this dusty hardpack and rocky s**t i'm riding on. Need a new place to ride. Already because of all the rocks, ive put a nice ding in my new pipe and took a good chunk out of the side of the scotts sharkfin. oh well it's just a dirtbike right. YEAH RIGHT. NEED A NEW PLACE TO RIDE!! I have put about 5 gal. of gas thru it so far no real issues. the suspension is the shiznit it's sooo nice and plush, but firm when needed! They really worked wonders for this bikes handling.
Nothing new to show really.... Doesnt look like anyones interested anymore anyway. :cry:
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Not True!
I don't think there is much going on today account the long weekend.
Sorry to hear you got the bike dinged up a bit, it's just part of the territory I suppose...
Glad to hear it's running well!
Tuck\o/
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Wonder how hard it would be to make a carbon fiber pipe guard? seems simple enough kinda want to try it
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Eline makes them for the Pro Circuit and FMF pipes. $140 save some time I guess.
http://www.elineaccessories.com/ecommerce/kawasaki/kawasaki-kx500
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Eline makes them for the Pro Circuit and FMF pipes. $140 save some time I guess.
http://www.elineaccessories.com/ecommerce/kawasaki/kawasaki-kx500
cool didnt think they made them for the k5. need one for a cr5 pipe but if they make them for kawi... google time
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yup, looks like I gotta get me one of those! I always hated the look of the pipe guard and skid plates, but on this terrain they are needed I guess. :|
I wish I rode sand!
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Eline makes them for the Pro Circuit and FMF pipes. $140 save some time I guess.
http://www.elineaccessories.com/ecommerce/kawasaki/kawasaki-kx500
Alex.. any Idea if either of those fit our pipes? (zip-ty)
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How about one like Cam Made
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,2352.0.html
Tuck\o/
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No idea, it might take some shaving but I would like to try one out. I have a guard and it is hard to justify $140 for something I have. I also like the looks of my aluminum one powder coated candy green :-D
Eline makes them for the Pro Circuit and FMF pipes. $140 save some time I guess.
http://www.elineaccessories.com/ecommerce/kawasaki/kawasaki-kx500
Alex.. any Idea if either of those fit our pipes? (zip-ty)
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Yea. its interesting...
But..
Now that I know I bought the LAST PIPE zip-ty has... Kind of makes $140 not seem so bad, vs when I ding this one up...
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Yes, I would buy a the best pipe guard money could buy.
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Always cool to read about what others are doing. Great way to find new intersting tips & tricks. glad its running good for you now. :mrgreen:
Getting the teething pains sorted out is the best part of the battle, where you really learn, nice to have guys share the not perfect build parts as well.
Post up some pics of what you end up with on a pipe guard.