KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX100 / KX85 / KX80 / KX65 / KX60 => Topic started by: chris-mets on April 06, 2011, 02:12:01 PM
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I recently bought a 2000 KX60 and rode it wrong. It just died out and then later that day replaced the spark plug and it push started. 2 weeks later it didnt even push start. I opened the engine up and the cylinder head and piston were all chewed up with scrappy metal gouges. On the inside wall of the cylinder was a big gouge. The piston rings were shot too so I think it didnt have enough compression after 2 push starts in second gear. I purchased a wiseco piston kit with everything, a cylinder head, and a cylinder. I do not want to put these on yet because I am afraid some of the chewed up metal is in the engine and will shoot up into the cylinder and the same thing will happen. The connecting rod is also really shaky. It wobbles side to side. I took off the clutch cover and it looked good. Then I took off the crankcase and everything looked good. I don't want to fool around with any gears or take apart the inside of the engine because I am scared something will go wrong. I have no more money. I do not want to take chances. How am I going to clean out the engine. I am 13 and I just started into bikes a year ago. Please Help! Thanks.
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Is the motor out of the Bike?
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Where are you located.... If your anywhere near me.. Ill clear a spot on my bench for ya... and walk ya through it...
(thats not a offer that happens very often) :-o
But to answer your questions..
The rod play side to side isnt much to be worried about (unless its EXCESSIVE)... UP AND DOWN is what you need to worry about...
as far as flushing the cases.... its a judgement call...
is it due for crank seals? are crank seals the reason the piston and rings went? or other things?
so on..
if everything in the bottom end is on the up and up, and only a SMALL ammount of alum went through them.... you can get away with flushing the lower end with gasoline several times, (or other various solvents)... But once again.. this is a judgement call...
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The motor is not out of the bike. I am located in Midland Park, NJ. I will check if the rod goes up and down without cranking it. I recently found 1 little peice of tiny metal on the crankshaft 2 circle things connected to the connecting rod. I was riding in second gear long andstupidly, then I went down to first and it died out. Tahnks for the replies!
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Grasp the flywheel and try to move it in and out. Grasp the rod and check for up/down movement. If the flywheel moves, crank main bearings are bad. If the rod moves AT ALL up and down you need a crank rebuild or a new crank.
From the looks of that damage, it is very similar to what the KX60 looked like when I first bought it for my nephew. My suspicion is the lower rod bearings went. These little 60's are VERY high strung engines.
It also looks like maybe it's running lean. What pre-mix ration are you running?
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Coop. Thank you. The connecting rod shakes a lot side to side and a little bit up and down. I think I would just need to buy a connecting rod and bearings, right? The thing is can you guide me on how to get to the crankshaft so I can buy the rod kit and put it in? I am running very high 52:1 ratio in super gas. Should I worry about cleaning the engine out of all little metal pieces? I think the lower rod bearings were shot and that caused the piston to go a little higher and continuously hit the head and smush metal pieces to eachother. Thanks for the help.
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Coop. Thank you. The connecting rod shakes a lot side to side and a little bit up and down. I think I would just need to buy a connecting rod and bearings, right? The thing is can you guide me on how to get to the crankshaft so I can buy the rod kit and put it in? I am running very high 52:1 ratio in super gas. Should I worry about cleaning the engine out of all little metal pieces? I think the lower rod bearings were shot and that caused the piston to go a little higher and continuously hit the head and smush metal pieces to eachother. Thanks for the help.
you would have to buy a rod kit, then you would have to split the cases then take the crank to a bike shop or machine shop to have them put the rod on because they use a press to get the rod out and when they press it back together then they have to true the crank. and for a motor that revs as high as a 60 does , you should be running a 32:1 mix. and you should thoroughly clean out the bottom end.
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I just checked and the flywheel does no shake or even move a bit. But the rod shakes a lot side to side and little up and down. How do I get the crank out? Is it those 3 phillips screws holding the flywheel on? Would I have to take the motor off the bike? What does trueing the crank mean? I am using this bike just to ride around and not race. Thanks.
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I just checked and the flywheel does no shake or even move a bit. But the rod shakes a lot side to side and little up and down. How do I get the crank out? Is it those 3 phillips screws holding the flywheel on? Would I have to take the motor off the bike? What does trueing the crank mean? I am using this bike just to ride around and not race. Thanks.
you must remove the motor from the bike then you have to disassemble the motor completely then you have to take a case splitter the split the case then you have to take a crank puller to remove the crank then you take the crank to a machine shop or a bike shop. if you dont true the crank (theres no way around it, you must) , it will feel like you are riding a jack hammer.
truing means that each half of the crank must be ''straight'' its hard to explain, maybe someone else will explain
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Will it cost a lot for a machine shop to put the connecting rod and bearings on then true the crank? I am going to try to take the engine off the bike right now.
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Will it cost a lot for a machine shop to put the connecting rod and bearings on then true the crank? I am going to try to take the engine off the bike right now.
when i had my crank rebuilt it costed $81 for the rod kit and i think it was like $100 +/- for labour , and you must buy crank main bearings too which is $43 through all balls. do you have the case splitter and crank puller? if not your best to have the bike shop do the whole thing which will be $$$. when i had my 250s engine overhauled by the shop which was replacing the tranny , rebuilding the crank and truing it and putting the top end together , so basically putting the motor together from bolts cost me around $600 and thats WITHOUT parts
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also i might add, once you get everything back together with the crank rebuilt, and when its all good you will need the carb jetted for a 32:1 mix. make sure you do it right the first time!
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Yeah I'm 13 and so I am probably going to just take the crankshaft out myself and the only thing I am going to do maybe from a machine shop is take the rod off, put the new one on and true it. The crank bearings are good still...the flywheel is still..
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Yeah I'm 13 and so I am probably going to just take the crankshaft out myself and the only thing I am going to do maybe from a machine shop is take the rod off, put the new one on and true it. The crank bearings are good still...the flywheel is still..
it doesnt matter if the crank bearings are good or not you must replace them along with the seals. if all that shrapnel went through the motor , then it must have passed through the bearings
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make sure you get crank bearing and seals
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it looks like it would be a whack of a lot cheaper to just get a new crank
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-HOTRODS-CRANKSHAFT-CRANK-KAWASAKI-KX60-1986-2003-/220763617568?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3366897920
http://cgi.ebay.ca/CRANK-SHAFT-BEARING-KIT-KAWASAKI-KX-60-KX60-1983-2003-/230599641193?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b0cf4869
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I found a connecting rod with bearings for 65 then he said he could put it on for 30 more bucks.
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I took the engine off the bike and am trying to split the engine. I stripped half of the phillips head screws already. They are not coming out. Please help.
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I'm going to give you the best advice so far, save your money and take it to somebody that knows what they are doing. I give you an A for enthusiam and an F for knowledge, those make a bad combination, I know this from personal experience. At a little older than you my bike was a 125 Hodaka Combat Wombat, every dime I made went into that bike, mostly because I thought I knew what I was doing and probably didn't. I could also say thats why I know what I know but back in those days a piston was only like $12 and granted that was alot of money back then. The kx 60 is a grenade waiting to happen, I have seen countless 60's blown up usually its the crank from doing exactly what you described riding in a low gear and revving to the moon. So either fix it right or plan on going into it again and again and so on.
Are you just learning to ride? 13 for a 60 seems a bit old
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Yeah I'm focusing on getting the screws out. I am doing everything right. I bought a new cylinder, cylinder head, and wiseco piston. I am planning on once I get the engine split to buy a connecting rod and bearings. I have had one bike before this and it was a ttr90. I like speed so I got a kx60 and i am fairly small...5 foot and 90 pounds
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I found a connecting rod with bearings for 65 then he said he could put it on for 30 more bucks.
who said he could put it on for $30
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the listing on ebay. but nevermind. I am going to open the engine then take the crankshaft out and take the old rod out and put the new bearing and rod in. It's held in by a pin just like the piston so it's not hard.
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the listing on ebay. but nevermind. I am going to open the engine then take the crankshaft out and take the old rod out and put the new bearing and rod in. It's held in by a pin just like the piston so it's not hard.
its not like a piston pin, your going to need a big press to do it , but it is not practical . you need to take it to a shop
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i unscrew the two allen holes on the bottom of the connecting rod then replace the bearing and rod
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i unscrew the two allen holes on the bottom of the connecting rod then replace the bearing and rod
what allen holes?
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http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20Engine%20Overhaul/Piston%20and%20Connecting%20Rod%20Assemble.htm
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http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20Engine%20Overhaul/Piston%20and%20Connecting%20Rod%20Assemble.htm
that pic is of a four stroke rod. its different for a 2 stroke, the crank needs to be split
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if i take out the crankshaft and buy the rod and bearings would u be able to do it for me if i sent it to you
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if i take out the crankshaft and buy the rod and bearings would u be able to do it for me if i sent it to you
WHO ME???!!! i dont have the capabilities to do that
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how did you learn how to do all of this then?
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how did you learn how to do all of this then?
i dont know where i learned it from. i just know
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oh haha so right now I am looking at trying to split the engine. 3 of the 5 phillips screws are stripped. once i split it I will clean out the engine of all metal bits, then should I look at buying the rod and bearing or a new crankshaft. A new crankshaft is about 130 bucks but a rod and bearing is 60
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here is what a 2 stroke rod looks like.and the bearing to the left is the one we are talking about
EDIT:
sorry i said right bearing but i made i mistake, its the left
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oh haha so right now I am looking at trying to split the engine. 3 of the 5 phillips screws are stripped. once i split it I will clean out the engine of all metal bits, then should I look at buying the rod and bearing or a new crankshaft. A new crankshaft is about 130 bucks but a rod and bearing is 60
yeah a rod is $60 and labour is around $130 so 130+60= $190 for rebuild. 130 for new crank. so i think we came to a conclusion.
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yes I understand. I can see a little and the lower bearing on the rod doesnt move with the rod and it is cracked. I think this link is perfectly what I need.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wiseco-crankshaft-kit-Kawasaki-KX60-KX-60-85-03-crank-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a60f81131QQitemZ250734973233QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
but after the bike is altogether do I kick it and it will recompress itself? also the piston is the right size for the cylinder but when the piston has the rings on it it doesnt slide in the cylinder?
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i heard those cranks are made in china. not good when you are building an engine.
but after the bike is altogether do I kick it and it will recompress itself? also the piston is the right size for the cylinder but when the piston has the rings on it it doesnt slide in the cylinder?
you said you ordered a NEW cylinder didnt you? are you pressing the rings with your fingers before sliding it into the cyl.? and are the rings in their locating pins? or if it is a new cyl and the piston WONT fit, did you order a standard sized piston?
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wiseco makes parts that perform better than the nos parts. and yes I bought the standard sized piston and cylinder which is 43mm. The rings are in there locating pins. I take the cylinder and piston and try to put the piston in the cylinder with my hands but the rings are shaky which i think they are supposed to be.
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wiseco makes parts that perform better than the nos parts. and yes I bought the standard sized piston and cylinder which is 43mm. The rings are in there locating pins. I take the cylinder and piston and try to put the piston in the cylinder with my hands but the rings are shaky which i think they are supposed to be.
the rings are shaky? :?
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yes, i took the piston and rings out of the box and put them both on. they spin and dont stay in their little pin spot. Do I bend them in or something. People say usually the ring gaps are always loose out of the box
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thats because you have to keep them pressed in with your finger
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Ok I will try right now. Even if the piston and rings are that tight on the cylinder it will still move fast with it inside?
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yep. I pushed the rings in with my fingers and it went in. It's just that when its in the cylinder I can't move it anymore. It's really tight in there.
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yep. I pushed the rings in with my fingers and it went in. It's just that when its in the cylinder I can't move it anymore. It's really tight in there.
did you oil the bore?
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Not yet. I will once I open the engine and clean it and get the crank altogether. Once the bottom end is done I will do that. Do I have to dip all the parts in oil before I put them in? like all the bearings, the cylinder walls, the head, and the piston? or what?
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Not yet. I will once I open the engine and clean it and get the crank altogether. Once the bottom end is done I will do that. Do I have to dip all the parts in oil before I put them in? like all the bearings, the cylinder walls, the head, and the piston? or what?
if you were test fitting the piston then you will need to put oil on your fingers and spread it all over the cylinder and piston.
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Ok so I rub oil with my fingers everywhere when I finally finish the engine. Then I fill it up with the oil.
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Ok so I rub oil with my fingers everywhere when I finally finish the engine. Then I fill it up with the oil.
only coat the cyl, piston , rod bearings, crank bearings. then put in the tranny oil
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Ok thanks. Will do but for now im working on the stripped screws holding the engine together.
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yep. I pushed the rings in with my fingers and it went in. It's just that when its in the cylinder I can't move it anymore. It's really tight in there.
Sure the rings are lined up with the locating pins? and you put it all together straight...
Sounds like ring hooking a port to me...
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Nevermind I solved that problem. Thanks Anyway!
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Nevermind I solved that problem. Thanks Anyway!
What was the problem?
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Well It didn't slide up and down without oil and then I couldnt get it in the cylinder because I didn't squeeze the rings together.
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Make sure the letter on the ring is facing up too.
DoldGuy
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Yes, I checked last night and they are both up...both rings just said N100 on them and I put both words up
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Ok guys, this is where I am at right now. I got my local shop to take the phillips engine bolts out then the next day I got help from them again with taking out the flywheel. The guy was nice and did it for free even though he doesn't even work on dirt bikes. I don't want to bother him again. I have the flywheel and stator off of the bike. I am trying to split the engine so I have to take the clutch and the primary gear and the kick start idler off, correct? The bolts are all too tight I can't get them. The thing is I would need a case splitter and a crank puller installer after I get those bolts off. I would also need to buy the crankshaft that comes with seals, bearings, and gaskets. Does anyone have the tools I could borrow? I am already far into this project. After I buy the crankshaft kit I am 950 into this bike. I would be very greatful if someone would let me borrow their tools for splitting the cases and putting the crank off and on. Thank you.
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you can make a case splitter. use a square piece of 8-10 mm steel, a centre hole with a thread for end of crank, and 2 threaded holes to put screws into the stator holes and voila, case entry. theres a thread on here with a pic, cant remember where tho. hopefully someone does.hth.
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Your local auto parts store normaly "rents" tools. Mostly they are free.. You put down a deposite, and they refund you when you return the tool...
Steering wheel pullers work great ;). With some appropriately sourced bolts.
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Well it's a store that sells and repairs/services on snowblowers, lawnmowers, weedwackers, leafblowers, etc. The guy there let me borrow his impact driver but I couldn't do it so I brought the engine to him and he loosened these bolts. Then I got to some more bolts that were too tight. So he did it again. Now I have more bolts that are too tight again.
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Ok guys. I purchased this crankshaft with a lot of needed things:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250734973233&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Now I gotta get the engine apart. I have the motor off the bike and the flywheel and stator off. I have the engine phillips head bolts off that splits the engine. On the other side of the engine I can't get the clutch center bolt off or the primary gear bolt off.
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go onto fleabay and search item number 160558022565.its a us auto place that will rent you a splitter for 5 days for 10 us dollars.sorted.
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Ok I received the crankshaft with the bearings, seals, and gaskets, but I cannot dissasemble the engine. I took off the front sprocket on the engine and I took off the flywheel and stator but thats all I can do. I can't loosen the center bolt on the clutch or the center bolt on the primary gear. I tried putting a washer in between the gears to loosen but no luck. Someone help. It's been about 6 months since I've heard this thing run. :( Help would be appreciated!
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borrow someones air compressor to use your air tools like i suggested before
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Appart is the easy bit..... how are you going to hold it all to TORQUE the nut durring assembly?
Washers in gears, is a good way to have to buy gears... (teeth bust off)
No offence, but if you dont have the right tools... take it to somone who does, or buy the tools...
Clutch hub holding tool is what you need at this point... and a torque wrench, and a crankshaft Jig, and, and , and.
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you cant half ass an engine rebuild
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I'm not. I am going to my friends house to loosen the bolts with my air tools and his compressor. I talked to a guy before and he said he didn't use any special tools to rebuild his kx60 engine like case splitters or pullers or anything. He used a rubber mallet and other normal things. If the washer is aluminum is doesn't hurt the teeth. I will tighten the bolts the same way I loosened them.
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it was just a suggestion. tell us how it goes :-D
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-universal-Compressor-Clutch-holding-tool-/110643040055?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19c2d6cf37
Would this work?
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no, this will
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Motorcycle-Clutch-Flywheel-Sprocket-Holder-Holding-tool-/390307464592?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5ae0234590
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Is that all I need to do the whole engine?
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this too
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Crankcase-Splitter-Crank-puller-installer-combo-ATV-/160478380331?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item255d41c12b
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So those 3 things? and thats all I need?
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So those 3 things? and thats all I need?
should be, unless i am forgetting something
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Just an update that I just bought those 2 listings on ebay.
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cool, did you manage to remove the clutch assembly?
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Well I bought them today so I have to wait for arrival.
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Well I bought them today so I have to wait for arrival.
oh yeah i forgot
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I admire your spirit kid. some of the other bits and pieces you may need are a torquewrench, and non drying sealer such as blue hylomar, and some grease.a clymer manual off ebay is also a must.best 20 dollars you,ll spend. As for making this a bit easier for you, go onto youtube and search '2 stroke engine rebuild'. there are a couple of good ones on there from rocky mountain atv and tobys2strokes. watch them both, and when you,ve watched em both.............................................................
watch em again.................. :wink:
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something else for you to think about whilst your at it, if you rev an engine flat out for a long time in say,.......2nd gear, when the engine gets to its maximum speed, it stops accelerating the bike as you havent changed up.this means the engine is no longer under load.an engine revving flat out whilst not under load will eat itself quickly.won't it?get on your pushbike, take the chain off the crank whilst leaning the bars against a wall, and with the crank disconnected from the back wheel, try to pedal as fast as you can.if your doing it right, your knees will feel the difference of not being under load.its not pleasant at pedalling speed, needless to say at 14000 rpm it can get downright expensive.have a good read thru the threads on here, you'll learn a lot.K.
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Buy the tools and the service manuals dude!! best $$ you will ever spend!! best thing you could buy for your bike if you plan on taking them apart, trust me! :mrgreen:
I WISH I STARTED THIS STUFF WHEN I WAS 13! YOUR ON YOUR WAY EARLY, FEEL GOOD ABOUT IT! GREAT LESSON IN $$ MANAGEMENT!
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@kwakman I understood every word you said lol! I will probably buy a service manual when I regain some money. I bought the bike for 550 and im already $1150 into it meanwhile the most I could sell the bike is about 750. I have watched rocky mountain atv's rebuild video about 4 times haha.
@delphipro5 I am planning on purchasing a manual. My friend got me into this stuff because he has a klx 140 and when my bike runs I don't know who would win down a straight street. lol
Thanks for the advice everyone!
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here is the very cheapest manual on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Kawasaki-KX60-KX80-Service-Manual-1983-1990-/330515584050?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4cf4439432
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Thanks! but I do not have any money to spend for anything else. I owe my parents 70 dollars still lol. I use to owe them 180 but I sold a mac I found in the garbage for 80 and a bike I found in the garbage for 30 :)
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Thanks! but I do not have any money to spend for anything else. I owe my parents 70 dollars still lol. I use to owe them 180 but I sold a mac I found in the garbage for 80 and a bike I found in the garbage for 30 :)
hahaha i cracked up when i read you sold a mac :-D . must have been a good one to be sold for 80 bucks.
should think of some other things to sell like some old xbox games you dont use anymore.
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got any grandparents to flog? get em on ebay sharpish.none of us do this bike building thing to sell our own bike on at a profit, doesnt work that way on the whole.if you like goin fast, havin a laugh and learnin stuff (and bein broke) your in the right place.K.
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you should go looking around the house for stuff to sell to fund the bike.
for example i sold a soccer ball on ebay for $200 and i bought a clutch hub, clutch springs and swing arm bearings. for my 94 rm250
not a bad deal for a dusty old soccer ball!
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just to clarify, i was only joking about selling the grandparents.you'd have trouble shipping them....
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+1 +1 +1 all great advice. Chris, it is going to make you puke how much$$ goes into this! If you get into doing this type of stuff especially on dirt bikes. You will never be able to sell them for what you put into them! But what you will LEARN, just doing a carb. rebuild (THE RIGHT WAY!) is tremendous! The experience will be indespensible later in life. Worth every penny. Check out my thread labeled-- "My 2004 KDX 220" Almost got it runnin, and I now call that bike "The learning experience" :mrgreen: Are you experienced :mrgreen: (sorry guys, had to make the hendrix comment) :lol:
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got any grandparents to flog? get em on ebay sharpish.none of us do this bike building thing to sell our own bike on at a profit, doesnt work that way on the whole.if you like goin fast, havin a laugh and learnin stuff (and bein broke) your in the right place.K.
Hahahahahaha ...... Reading this qoute made me feel alot better! :-)
@Chris-mets dont worry mate i'm 27 and only just started this as a hobby, i been riding for years but buying scrappers
chucking bikes away when they are done! Finally thought i wanna take care of something and have it in top condition...
Trust me, even if you've done a thousand things wrong, you still did the first one right.... Joing kxriders! Guys here are so helpful! Second step buy a manual! Then pick up a spanner! let us know how you get on! I'm still doing my 91 kx250 rebuild....so far i've done Frame, breaks, suspension, swing arm, all bearings replaced, sproket's, chain and tyres.....
ONLY now have i decided to pull the engine out and look at that.....
But reading this has made me feel better about where i am too, so thank you for that!! Just stick at it and take your time as a wise man once said to me lol (1989kawasaki)
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Thanks everyone for the help! I remember when I got my first bike I didn't even know how to turn the ignition key on :) I thought it was broken the little ttr90 :) I am almost done with the funding. All I might need is the sealing glue you put on when you reseal the middle cases. My friend has a torque wrench. I was thinking the only torquing I probably need to do is the 4 head bolts. What do I torque it to? Thanks everyone!
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Thanks everyone for the help! I remember when I got my first bike I didn't even know how to turn the ignition key on :) I thought it was broken the little ttr90 :) I am almost done with the funding. All I might need is the sealing glue you put on when you reseal the middle cases. My friend has a torque wrench. I was thinking the only torquing I probably need to do is the 4 head bolts. What do I torque it to? Thanks everyone!
that is why you need a manual. my buddy has a kx60 manual i might borrow off him
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the 'ONLY' things you need to set the torque on are cyl head bolts, cyl to cases bolts, clutch basket, clutch pressure plate, crank primary drive gear,engine mounting bolts, head stay, and swingarm bolt.(and there'll be some i forgot too)dont ignore the proper torque settings just to get out on it half an hour earlier, no point spending all that dough to break sumthin else cos you didnt set the torque on the relevant parts...... :-o
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well pm me your address i will send you a manual for free. and i am glad everyone is helping you out instead of flaming you shows you the integrity of this forum.
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Thank you very much! just an update everyone that the cases are split and the old crankshaft is out. I do not know if I should replace the bearing and seal that is in the case to the right side. It looks good but I don't know. Also do I have to seal the cases with silicon again when I reseal the cases? Thanks.
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Thank you very much! just an update everyone that the cases are split and the old crankshaft is out. I do not know if I should replace the bearing and seal that is in the case to the right side. It looks good but I don't know. Also do I have to seal the cases with silicon again when I reseal the cases? Thanks.
Silicone=Bad.
Yamabond 4=good (honda Bond, Three bond 1194, etc etc)
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I do not know if I should replace the bearing and seal that is in the case to the right side. It looks good but I don't know.
Replace it! no point in taking the risk...tiny metal shards prob ended up lodged in there!
for the price and how much extra work it is from this point far outweighs the price of having to do it 2 hours after you put the bike back together!
This can be done with no specialist tools.... BUT ALOT of attention.. Heat the case to 200c (use spit test) and freeze the bearings for an hour, cold bearings should drop straight into a hot case with no need for a press, make sure they drop in straight tho.. For instructions look to you tube.
Do not put it back together without replacing the bottom end bearings, its just not worth it and i'd hate to see you have to do all this again!
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Always replace the seals if you have it appart...
They are cheap... and its NOT CHEAP if they fail... (motor go boom)
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Ok thanks for the advice. I just sold a bike I found in the garbage to some guy in Pennsylvania for $80! haha I will look for some type of bond for it and try to get the bearing and seal out. My friend has mr.gasket I think he said would that work? and Im borrowing his torque wrench too. The motor is at my friend's house right now cause we had to use the air compressor. The engine is split and the old shaft is off. There was a lottt of gunk stuff on the bottom where the shaft is and it looked like dirt but it wasnt. Im gonna clean the whole thing up. Thanks.
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and also how much yamabond do I buy?
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and also how much yamabond do I buy?
1 tube is enough for many motors...
Mr Gasket is a gasket dressing... ment to put on automotive gaskets before assembly.... not the same thing as what yamabond ETC. does.. as they are a Case sealant..
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Ok thanks but how much yamabond? 3 oz? theres different sizes.
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Ok thanks but how much yamabond? 3 oz? theres different sizes.
3oz tube is the only size any motorcycle shop I have delt with has..
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Thank you very much! just an update everyone that the cases are split and the old crankshaft is out. I do not know if I should replace the bearing and seal that is in the case to the right side. It looks good but I don't know. Also do I have to seal the cases with silicon again when I reseal the cases? Thanks.
Silicone=Bad.
Yamabond 4=good (honda Bond, Three bond 1194, etc etc)
YAMABOND 4 is sorta like fat bottom girls......
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What about HYLOMAR? Not the same as yamabond?
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What about HYLOMAR? Not the same as yamabond?
I use halomar for intake gaskets..
But it will NOT WORK as case sealer..
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Thanks, good to know.
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Ok guys here is where I am. I could not get the bearing or seal off of the case where the shaft goes. It would not come out without a press. So I put the new crankshaft(was fairly very easy with light taps of a rubber mallet) in the case and am trying to get the other bearing on the shaft. I got in on halfway but Its really hard and I think it isnt moving anymore. I tried wd40 to slide it on more and it wouldnt work. This is the only thing stopping me. I got the yamabond in the mail and I got the torque wrench from my friend. Thanks.
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Dont knock The crank out of true withthat hammer of yours.. It's VERY easy to do..
If you used the proper heat and cold method, everythign should have just fallen on...
The main bearing would have fallen out with the same method... You may regret not changing that crank seal...
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why dont you use your crank installer?
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Been quiet in here.. What's going on?
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The motor is at my friends house and his dad is taking it to TKO shop to get the bearings pressed in and out. He is taking very long. I am getting very scared that when I put it all back together and I try to kick it something will go wrong
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The motor is at my friends house and his dad is taking it to TKO shop to get the bearings pressed in and out. He is taking very long. I am getting very scared that when I put it all back together and I try to kick it something will go wrong
I wouldnt loose sleep over it, I rebuilt my 250 in the same manner as you, and it has many hours on it now. As long as you didnt knock the crank out of true, and everything goes together without damage, it should run fine.
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FML. I got the bearings pressed and put the engine together and when I spin the clutch it doesnt move the crankshaft. When I get a wrench on the primary gear bolt on the crankshaft, it moves very tough. PLEASE HELP I WANT THE BIKE RUNNING SUNDAY.
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are the primary gears on?
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Yes the one gear that goes on the crankshaft is on...I think it is not moving because I didnt oil the seals or bearings.
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are the clutch plates in?
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The clutch plates are in but the springs arent on...and the flywheel isnt on
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weird,, so when you grab the basket and turn it the crank wont turn with it?
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correct...I take a torque wrench to the gear that is connected to the crankshaft and it turns but very rough
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is the top end put together?
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nope the piston isnt even on...i think I have to split the engine again and oil the bearings and seals..right?
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what happens if you remove the primary gears and just grab the con rod and rotate the crank,, then does it move freely?
if it does then it could be other issues....
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when the primary gear isnt on it still is stuck. Isnt it cause of no oil or am I wrong??
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then you probably put the crank in crooked
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Ok thanks. Tomorrow I will reopen the case and oil the bearings and seals and try again.
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make sure everything goes in straight!
ok buddy , lets us know what happens.
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nope the piston isnt even on...i think I have to split the engine again and oil the bearings and seals..right?
Chris,
Slow down.....we have all been in your position before, and can tell you from mistakes made....be patient. Oil is NOT going to make the crank turn over easy, investigate why it's "rough" turning over. Pull the clutch off & try again....you want to isolate the crank...it will have more friction/drag than when you first pulled it apart. If it still feels rough, you will need to split the cases & research the cause. During assembly, I always lube the crank seals with premix oil & the trans seals with gear box oil to help prevent tearing the seal.
Patients will reward you!
DoldGuy
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nope the piston isnt even on...i think I have to split the engine again and oil the bearings and seals..right?
Chris,
Slow down.....we have all been in your position before, and can tell you from mistakes made....be patient. Oil is NOT going to make the crank turn over easy, investigate why it's "rough" turning over. Pull the clutch off & try again....you want to isolate the crank...it will have more friction/drag than when you first pulled it apart. If it still feels rough, you will need to split the cases & research the cause. During assembly, I always lube the crank seals with premix oil & the trans seals with gear box oil to help prevent tearing the seal.
Patients will reward you!
DoldGuy
hes right
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could be the crank isnt centered causing it to bind on the case. make sure both crank webs have the same amount of space on either side
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Ok, today I loosened all the screws to take off the half of the case and I took the clutch and primary gear off and it move a tiny bit tough but i think thats normal for new seals...but when i tighten them it doesnt move a bit. and when you look down where the crank is you can see a gap on one side and I think marco is right.
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and i always have my cell phone so my number is 201 835 5486....i want this done asap cause i want to ride it to school on the last day :)) pleaseee help. thanks
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Ok I just resplit the engine and saw how the crank moved without oil on the one side then took the crank out put oil on bearing and seal and shaft and it moved how it should! then I looked at the other side and saw that the machine shop didnt push the bearing in all the way I think...so im gonna put a rag on the bearing and hit it hard...the bad thing is I bought a wiseco piston 3 months ago and cant find it...so I have to buy a new one FML please text
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hitting the crank and the bearing will damage it. take 10 mins and go to a shop that will do it properly in 2 seconds......
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I got the bearing all the way on and oiled the bearings and seals and crank...so i went ahead and tried putting on the case halve and I made sure it went on straight. It has about 1/4 of an inch left to tighten until its on all the way but when I tighten from here it doesnt move. I wish someone can like come over and help. I would greatly appreciate it.
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I meant when I tighten more the crank doesnt move
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Okay.. Ill jump in here...
Not going to lecture on hitting bearings with hammers etc...
first.. I normaly like to install the bearings into the cases FIRST... as it makes the process a bit easyer
But since you are the other way around... here is how I would go about it..
Find yourself some scrap steel, old sockets, etc that are big enough to fit around where the bearings go in the cases (But not touch the crank seals)..
Put them in the oven at 500Deg F..
put your crank and bearings in the freezer for ATLEAST 4 hours...
put the heated sockets on the cases.. wait about 4min.. (now is a good time to put on your Yamabond).. go get another... put on the case.... go get your crank..
Crank should DROP IN the clutch side case... But since your working the other way around... BE PREPARED for it not to... 60% chance it wont.. (Did I mention you should have already applied your Yamabond??)
WORK FAST..
get the ignition side case, and drop it on... it should go on fairly easy... torque all case bolts to 1/2 spec... then to 3/4 spec... then to 100% spec...
You can also do this by putting both cases in the oven set at 180D F... NOTE NITRILE TEMP RATING IS 250d f SO......
This doesnt work as good, as it wont get the cases as hot as the socket way of going.. but if you dont have sockets big enough, etc... it is the way to go
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some reading
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,599.msg3291.html#msg3291
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motorrad...i was texting you and you didnt reply lol...and I have both bearings and seals in the cases....none are on the crank....I get the crank in the tranny side of the case and it goes in with light tap...when i try to evenly put the empty case halve I cant get it on without making the crank not move....
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Have you tryed the Heat, freeze method?
I think without it, your binding things up
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i thought that method only works to get the bearings in the cases...do I just freeze the crank then try to put it in again?
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i thought that method only works to get the bearings in the cases...do I just freeze the crank then try to put it in again?
Okay. berings in cases..
Heat some sockets (the SAME size as the INNER RACE ofthe bearing.. to 500D F...
Hold on.. I have a explination of my own somewhre... Ill ink to..
But yes.. it works to..
Need to have the crank in the freezer for like 4 hrs... MINIMUM...
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Here it is...
Get some Juice in a Sippy cup, since your not old enough to have a beer :-P
Didnt see the "adaptor".. Didnt follow this post till just now
Here is my order.... Not for the faint of heart, or the SLOW worker.. as it all happens VERY VERY fast..
Get a Beer...
I install crank seals, then mains in the cases Using Heat/freeze method (drink a beer).... install tranny... (dont forget to GREASE ALL SEALS)
Oil crank.... put in freezer overnight... Have another beer or 4
Next day... turn oven on to 500F.. put in 4 impact sockets, that are same size as "inner race" on mains.. Have a beer.
let sockets heat for about an hour... or so.. have 2 beers
take 2 sockets out... Place on the inner race of each case.. for about 4min... This method keeps all heat away from crank seals (your next to the freezer, get another beer)
While those are on there... Put Case sealer on Primary side case..
Get other 2 sockets... Place on mains (take other 2 off).. (need another beer?)
let sit for 2 min... then go get the crank (my freezer is a 1min round trip from bench).. (no time for beer need to work fast at this point.)
Drop crank in Clutch side case (the one the tranny is in)... it will fall all the way through and go "CLUNK" against the main... (have to have case proped up so crank end wont hit bench).. I have a universal motor stand built out of 2x4's for this...
Imediatly get ignition side case.. and Drop on...
Make quick sure it spins free and is centered.. now is the quick time for a light tap with a rubber hammer to undo any bind your in...
Install Case bolts you ALREADY HAVE LAYED OUT.. In order... along with proper tools.....
Torque to half spec...
...........Have a sip of beer................
Torque to full spec...
Have a beer.. you did good..
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Here is the thread that quote came from BTW... if you want to do more reading
Doug and Tsari have a hibreed way of doing it.. that isnt as... FAST.. May be better for you... My way.. MOVES FAST.. have to have all your ducks in a row..
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,8811.msg71771.html#msg71771
I have also done it my way, in stages...
Heat clutch side case, freeze crank... drop in.... Then Freeze ENTIRE tranny and crank AGAIN.. (god bless Chest freezers) and repeat with ignition side case...
(reasons I do this way is... when all my ducks dont line up.. and I have to abort mission half way through...... :roll: :roll: )
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Ok well I will freeze the crank overnight....but I dont understand what heating the sockets are for....the seals and bearings are in the case already
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Ok well I will freeze the crank overnight....but I dont understand what heating the sockets are for....the seals and bearings are in the case already
To heat up the INNER race of the bearing.... to Expand it... So the crank will just FALL IN.. the greater tempurature variance you can have, the easyer it will go together..
also note... Using this method.. the crank wont spin free till all your temps equalize...
Also from Ricks post I linked you to... a tap of the crank with a dead blow is somthing I left out... JUST A TAP.. dont bend things.. a crank Jig is your friend..
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ok lets make things clear....so i put the crank in the freezer overnight and it will be in there until 3 pm tomorrow...then I heat a socket that fits in the circle of the bearing at 500f for an hour then I take it right out after an hour and press it against the 2 bearings for like a minute? then i place the crank in the tranny side then i place the other side on easily...then wait 5 mins then done? and i screw all the screws in? please correct me
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ok lets make things clear....so i put the crank in the freezer overnight and it will be in there until 3 pm tomorrow...then I heat a socket that fits in the circle of the bearing at 500f for an hour then I take it right out after an hour and press it against the 2 bearings for like a minute? then i place the crank in the tranny side then i place the other side on easily...then wait 5 mins then done? and i screw all the screws in? please correct me
Read the quote I wrote 4 more times..... Its pretty step by step...
To clarify the sockets... NOT IN THE CIRLE... on the circle..
See picture..
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/DSC_6244.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/DSC_6245.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/DSC_6246.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Motorrad/DSC_6247.jpg)
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Ohhhh hahah thanks...about heating the socket....i put in for an hour at 500f and do i turn it off after an hour and wait like 20 mins for it to cool down cause how would i pick that thing up without burning my hand off??? and do I just get the socket and place it on the bearings and wait a minute on each bearing?
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Ohhhh hahah thanks...about heating the socket....i put in for an hour at 500f and do i turn it off after an hour and wait like 20 mins for it to cool down cause how would i pick that thing up without burning my hand off??? and do I just get the socket and place it on the bearings and wait a minute on each bearing?
Channel locks, tongs., vice grips.... a dumb friend.... etc.. the purpose of the HOT socket, is to be HOT.. and transfer the heat to the bearing race..
4 min per socket swap (read directions again, its there)
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Ok I put the crankshaft in the freezer...tomorrow around 3 pm I will cook the socket at 500f for an hour than take it out with a vice grip...then I take the crankshaft out and hold the socket on the 2 bearings 4 minutes each...then I place the crank in the tranny side...then I put the yamalube on the other side and place it on and screw some screws on tight...correcto?
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:-D You could have put the crank in a plastic bag (shopping bag etc) but thats the Idea. MoRads thread also said to lay out your case bolts in advance, and put them in half torque first have a beer while things are equalizing, and then final torque.
I think it would be easier if you took the long post and broke it down to one step at a time on 3x5 index cards.
Thank you for taking the time to post all the information and set up the photo's.
You will be glad you did when it comes time to write the book. That chapter would be done! 8-)
Unless you told him how to use the pick-up truck press method.. :lol:
Tuck\o/
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:-D You could have put the crank in a plastic bag (shopping bag etc) but thats the Idea. MoRads thread also said to lay out your case bolts in advance, and put them in half torque first have a beer while things are equalizing, and then final torque.
I think it would be easier if you took the long post and broke it down to one step at a time on 3x5 index cards.
Thank you for taking the time to post all the information and set up the photo's.
You will be glad you did when it comes time to write the book. That chapter would be done! 8-)
Unless you told him how to use the pick-up truck press method.. :lol:
Tuck\o/
The last time I used the "pick-Up" truck press method was To use a camp stove, that I brought the wrong type of butane/propane for.... (backpacking stove)
I just "truck pressed" it into the bottle, with a cut up piece of inertube to act as a gasket.... and cooked my maccaronni and cheese..
This was in the desert, and it was... Umm.. thanks giving.. me and the wife decided to spend it out there, riding bikes instead of with the fam, last year... but for some reason or another, camped out of the back of my 1967 FJ40 instead of taking the camper... Hmm dont know why now.. Gas prices?
YES... all the questions you are asking are WRITTEN out step BY STEP in the directions I posted.... take your time.. read it 6 more times.. make notes, idex cards, etc.... what ever it takes...
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FML I give up...im going to kawasaki...I got the crank in good and it moved good and all and I put the engine in the bike and It doesnt shift down or up or anything. I give up unless one of you can come to my house and help.
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FML I give up...im going to kawasaki...I got the crank in good and it moved good and all and I put the engine in the bike and It doesnt shift down or up or anything. I give up unless one of you can come to my house and help.
are you turning the counter shaft sprocket while trying to shift?
alot of bikes wont shift unless you are turning that.. as if the bike is rolling..
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it shifts really weird and not properly...can one of you come and ill pay you or do I have to bring it to kawasaki and pay like 400 more dollars...im already 1100 into this bike thats only worth 600
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it shifts really weird and not properly...can one of you come and ill pay you or do I have to bring it to kawasaki and pay like 400 more dollars...im already 1100 into this bike thats only worth 600
I would... But NJ is a bit of a drive from california..
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Thanks....can anyone near nj come help?? how much do you think kawasaki would charge me to fix it as is right now?
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Do you have a videocamera? So we can see what "shifting weird" is
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sorry I dont...would I be able to ship the engine to you and you repair it haha
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sorry I dont...would I be able to ship the engine to you and you repair it haha
I doubt you want that....
I will find more wrong with it than you would believe.. And I don't compromise.. Parts are out of spec, they don't go back in.... Just look at my Jeff Ward Round 2 motor build thread... look at the replacement parts list... this was AFTER a known motor builder went through it... 2 gallons since he had...
Seriously though... fresh motors feel a bit Odd shifting on the bench.. Especially Japanese stuff...
Does it click through all 5 (or is it 6 on those?) gears?
you HAVE TO BE turning the motor over (either rotating the crank, or spinning the output shaft of the tranny) in order to run through the gears.... NO MOTOR will do it at a stand still.. (Okay My BMW will, but they are crazy germans). no shift dogs will line up...
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are you 100% sure cause that made me very releived and im hoping thats the fact. I just get on the bike and start clicking through the gears...it clicks 1 down then goes to 3 or 2 i think...its all weird...I think when the bike was running before i could shift through all the gears stand still.
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that has happen to me before, took the clutch cover off and realized i put the shift shaft and spring mechanism weren't put together right. I would take off the cover and look in your manual how the shift shaft should go together, and try shifting it without the cover before you put it all back together
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Rats... Big Fat Rats with Long Hairy Tails..... Ok .. Rant Over...
Hey Chris, I'm sorry dude, In a few years you will look back and laugh about the whole stinkin' ordeal...
You do understand what Mo is talking about having to turn the drive sprocket at the same time you attempt to shift
Right?
.I think when the bike was running before i could shift through all the gears stand still.
Yes chris that would be correct, you see the engine is spinning (Idling) while you were going through the gears.
That's why you have to turn the drive sprocket/countershaft at the same time you click the shifter up and down through the gears.
Look through this clutch "How to" (with pic's) by another member and see if this helps...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,6752.0.html
I'm sorry Bro I'm in Northern Ca. ,
and can't afford the gaskets to put it back together let alone ship it back to you. And like Mo says,
If there is something " not right," It'll have to be repaired and or replaced...
Don't give up just yet... One washer out of place in the clutch assembly could be putting the Kabosh on the whole project...
I have a REAL PROBLEM giving up....
It's so bad in fact, I have been known to FIX things until they WERE broke....??
Tuck\o/
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anything thats worth doing is not usually easy.you've come this far, dont lose sight of your goal.....K.
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Hi guys, thanks for all the advice and support. I looked more into the bike and kept turning and shaking the drive sprocket while shifting up without a clutch or anything and i got it up to fourth but weirdly...I just ordered the piston on ebay... I hope I can just put the piston on then the cylinder and head...and put all the rest of the parts on....put oil in and gas and it will start right up.
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Ok I put the whole bike together today except the top end cause I didnt have the piston. Then I found the piston at my friends house and put that on...and while I tried to get one circlip on it fell down into the crankshaft...Do I have to worry about this? after this i pushed the bike and put it in first gear not thinking and the new piston cracked in half FML. I ordered a new one last night though
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what you mean you didnt put a rag around the opening to stop the clip from going down?
you MUST get it out. you probably have to tip the motor upside down and shake it around and then it should just drop out. OR if you have one of those telescopic magnet sticks (not sure of the proper name) you may be able to fish it out.
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I was thinking of a vacuum...
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Hey Chris,
A vacuum might work, you do actually have to see the circlip come out. Putting a rag or two around the opening in the crankcase is pretty much standard operating procedure. Now you know why
.. Good news is you can get it out.!
I think you are now officially a student at the School of Hard Knocks... I've been attending for about 40yrs. now.
The first memory I have beeing enrolled was when I took apart my old mans Brand spankin' new Lawn Boy.
He showed me how to cut the grass on saturday after we picked it up.
And I promptly took it apart Monday while he was at work. Needless to say I got most of it apart by simply "Borrowing some of his tools !
I swear I got beat for two weeks for that one... I think the old timer at the lawnmower shop gave him a discount on reassembling the mower.. He couldn't stop Laughing when we took it back to him only fourdays after he sold it to my old man brand new...
There is no moral to the story... I just thought you could use a good laugh...
P.S. Being an old timer myself now, there is something I don't understand in your previous posts...
I'm pretty sure I know what FM stands for.... But cannot figure out the "L".
In my youth I could finnish the FM part with any of the following...
Blind, Runnin' , Hard, Silly, ...
I thought maybe it meant Long... But that didn't quite fit, that seems it would need
another letter like "and Hard" any ways.. please keep it clean. I don't talk like that anymore and hope you don't either... :-D
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys...Im waiting on somehow getting that clip out so i can put the piston on and be done...I tried a magnet....I tried draining a whole quart of oil...no luck...I am NOT splitting the cases again or taking the engine out of the bike....There must be some way or would a mechanic do it? if so probably how much? and can I get away without getting the clip out? also when I get the clip out or whatever I do....Im gonna put the cloth in so it doesnt happen again but...WHen I get the piston on I cant get the 2 clips on...Is there a tool? Please answer all the questions...THanks!
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Hey guys...Im waiting on somehow getting that clip out so i can put the piston on and be done...I tried a magnet....I tried draining a whole quart of oil...no luck...I am NOT splitting the cases again or taking the engine out of the bike....There must be some way or would a mechanic do it? if so probably how much? and can I get away without getting the clip out? also when I get the clip out or whatever I do....Im gonna put the cloth in so it doesnt happen again but...WHen I get the piston on I cant get the 2 clips on...Is there a tool? Please answer all the questions...THanks!
draining the oil was a waste cause on a 2 stroke the actual engine and the gear box is separate. so there is no tranny oil where the clip is.
you CANNOT leave the clip in there, dont even try to leave it in there or it will come back and bite you in the butt the next time you start the bike.
my suggestion is to remove the motor and tip it upside down and shake it around until the clip comes out.
when my motor was out of my bike and i took the clip out , it fell into the cases ,so i had to hold the engine upside down and shook it and the clip came right out.
so i suggest you do that too...
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isnt the clip metal so its just gonna be magnetized to the crankshaft? and so no matter what its in the crank section and not by the tranny or clutch or any of that part of the engine? Ok I will take your advice and take the engine out of the bike.
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just let us know what happens after you do what i suggested
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I took the engine off the bike and shook it and nothing came out...
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I took the engine off the bike and shook it and nothing came out...
Fill lower end with premix... adgitate a bit... flip upside down to drain on a towel (so you can see if the clip came out). should come otu
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I took the engine off the bike and shook it and nothing came out...
did you hear it rattling around?
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I took the engine off the bike and shook it and nothing came out...
did you hear it rattling around?
You would never be able to hear a spring clip "rattling around" in there...
It doesnt weigh enough 1. and 2. all the parts should have a decent coating of oil on them, so its stuck to the side of the crank or somthing..
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I took the engine off the bike and shook it and nothing came out...
did you hear it rattling around?
You would never be able to hear a spring clip "rattling around" in there...
It doesnt weigh enough 1. and 2. all the parts should have a decent coating of oil on them, so its stuck to the side of the crank or somthing..
o
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Dag Nabit...
That buggar should have fallen out when you turned the engine over and shook it...
Magnet didn't work...hmmmm...and your positive you saw it fall in....
Tell you what Chris, if you can ( or want ) to send the motor out here to me I'll find a way to get it sent back.
Wait 'till your piston gets there, box up everything you have for the engine and send it out.
Don't need the carb or pipe, and you've already drained the oil.
I don't want you to give up, and you've already spent so much time,energy and money I can't hardly stand to hear one more gremlin jump in on the project...
I have surgery scheduled for July 27 to have my right hip replaced so I have to ship it back to you in the next few weeks on account I won't be able to get around too well for a while after I get my new ball-joint...
Think about it. Send me a PM and I'll give you my home addy. I definitely have the time. I have a few more chainsaws I can sell for part money and return shipping.
I'll be looking forward to your E-mail.
Tuck\o/
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Wow thanks so much! The piston came the other day...should I ship the top end too? Its gonna cost a ton to ship for me but its worth it since if I did something wrong then you will know what youre doing. Thanks! Ill PM you for more info.
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Dag Nabit...
That buggar should have fallen out when you turned the engine over and shook it...
Magnet didn't work...hmmmm...and your positive you saw it fall in....
Tell you what Chris, if you can ( or want ) to send the motor out here to me I'll find a way to get it sent back.
Wait 'till your piston gets there, box up everything you have for the engine and send it out.
Don't need the carb or pipe, and you've already drained the oil.
I don't want you to give up, and you've already spent so much time,energy and money I can't hardly stand to hear one more gremlin jump in on the project...
I have surgery scheduled for July 27 to have my right hip replaced so I have to ship it back to you in the next few weeks on account I won't be able to get around too well for a while after I get my new ball-joint...
Think about it. Send me a PM and I'll give you my home addy. I definitely have the time. I have a few more chainsaws I can sell for part money and return shipping.
I'll be looking forward to your E-mail.
Tuck\o/
Now thats called "Paying it Back"...........Tuck You Are a Good Man!
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Agreed
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Shoot, if you guys had as much time on your hands as I do right now you'd do it too. :wink:
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any updates chris? tuck?
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Waiting on the Boxes to arrive.
Haven't heard anything in a few days. The poor guy hasn't gotten any help at home, so he may not have even made it to the post yet... I would like to be able to get it resolved.
Mo-Rad has been Faithfully trying to help via the site, and Chris has done the best he can after school and when he could.
The cost of shipping the whole mary-ann across the country may have been the last straw on the 60.
We'll see..
Please Stand By...
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Sorry guys, but when my parents have the time to help me pack it and ship it, that's when it will be shipped. Sorry for taking so long. I will let you guys know when I have shipped the packages out. Thanks for all the help.
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packages? how many is there?
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well tuck said that it would be cheaper if I ship the bottom end in one box and then the carb, manual, top end, a random washer, and the piston in the other box.
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yeah so the boxes will be much smaller, gotcha :-D
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Oky Doke Chris,
I don't want you to badger your folks and have them ticked off. I was just afraid they told you forget it.
I'll be here, no problem.
Tuck\o/
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Good news. I shipped the 1 package today and it was 40 bucks even though the package was 36 pounds. I shipped it parcel and it said it should arrive july 8th. The tracking number is 0309 2880 0001 3820 9269. Thanks.
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Excellent, I knew it wasn't going to be cheap :| I'll be looking for the Box!
Tuck\o/
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Excellent, I knew it wasn't going to be cheap :| I'll be looking for the Box!
Tuck\o/
40 bucks isnt that bad, considering what might have happened if he didnt send it........
plz let us know when you get the stuff and get some pics! :-D
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Hey guys! Tuck texted me to let me know that he got the package today and is working on it already! He said he will post pics tomorrow morning.
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Hey guys! Tuck texted me to let me know that he got the package today and is working on it already! He said he will post pics tomorrow morning.
Sweet. that means he can ship me the parts he sold me off of it... :lol:
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Hey guys! Tuck texted me to let me know that he got the package today and is working on it already! He said he will post pics tomorrow morning.
Sweet. that means he can ship me the parts he sold me off of it... :lol:
Ok, that just made me cough my coffee out.
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Thanks so much for the support mo rad haha
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Hey guys! Tuck texted me to let me know that he got the package today and is working on it already! He said he will post pics tomorrow morning.
Sweet. that means he can ship me the parts he sold me off of it... :lol:
that was actually kind of funny!!! :lol: :lol:
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:lol:
http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/C%20M%20KX%2060/
If not for the shipping damage, all I would have had to do is a good cleaning for the most part...
The water pump shaft is worn and the sidecase is broken. I swear the hardest part is getting the pics uploaded...
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/C%20M%20KX%2060/th_IMGP0027.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/C%20M%20KX%2060/?action=view¤t=IMGP0027.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/C%20M%20KX%2060/th_IMGP0026.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/C%20M%20KX%2060/?action=view¤t=IMGP0026.jpg)
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was the motor packed properly? isnt there insurance on usps packages that cover damage?
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Oh WOW! I am impressed on how you took literally the WHOLE engine apart! When I regain some money Im gonna have to dip into my future car money and pay you back. So you just need to order the one case and the water pump? Where was the clip?!?!? stuck on the crank or just sitting in there? Thanks again Tuck, you saved me and I owe you. Thanks everyone.
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I've been trying to upload some more pics but am about to blow up this computor as it has really ticked me off....
Yes CM I had to take the whole engine down. Today is gonna be mostly cleaning.
I get paid the 10th so I'll have to wait a few days to order a new water pump shaft, woodruff keys, and find a clutch cover.
Don't you dare dip into the car fund, you have no Idea how expensive that's gonna be.!
I'll upload some more pics to the Photobucket acct. If I was better with that kind of stuff I would put it all on disc so you can see whats going on. I'm pretty bad at that stuff so it isn't gonna happen.
I have to get back to work!
Tuck\o/
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Hehe the funny thing is I am excellent at computers, but not so great with these motors. Well I have gotten MUCH better after this engine. What are woodruff keys? I will have to at least pay you some money by mailing it to you in the mail. Haha Im planning on a c3 corvette and Im paying half and my parents are the other half. I am never selling this bike probably in my lifetime cause after all this work it's a life remembrance and I will probably pass it on to future children for them to enjoy. So you are the savior and my future children will hear about all of you helping me with this bike! hahahahah! Good luck and thanks!
Chris
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/97-KX-60-Kawasaki-used-Clutch-Cover-Housing-Water-Pump-/250690908414?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5e57b0fe#ht_2334wt_905
found this on ebay in the U.S is it the right 1 :wink:
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Jinkies Mate!
I will be able to find one here much cheaper! We have a resident breaker (Sandblaster) I'll check with him.
I also have to get a small list of bolts, keys and a waterpump seal and shaft.
Here's the head and cyl after surfacing,
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_headandcylinder.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=headandcylinder.jpg)
Woodruff keys keep something lined up on a shaft.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodruff_key#Woodruff_key
Breaks over, Back to work... :-D
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thats pretty sweet tuck! :-D
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Thanks,
It takes a bit longer by hand. I was trying to take out some of the dings in the head without compramising the sealing surface. Here's the before pic.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0044.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0044.jpg)
This was purchased off ebay previously by the owner as the head and cyl that came with the bike was...unable to perform any further service...or blown up...
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thats awesomeee! Cant believe tuck devoted his time to help me.
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and Tuck Im curious of how you made the head so smooth and shiny? what did you use? and i gotta fool around witht the petcock on the gas tank. Its been sitting so long with no petrol in it so maybe tomorrow i will get a bowl and put carb cleaner and gas in the bowl and throw it in lol
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hey guys...I was wondering but how am I gonna keep this from happening all over again or slowly happen again? I know I have to shift properly but any other advice? ive put so much money into this bike that I wont ever sell it so im probly gonna get some money to buy a uni air filter and new grips. Any advice? thanks.
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run 32:1 oil mix , and keep the air filter clean. and you might want to have your carb rejetted before you ride it for the first time
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Ok ill buy a new uni filter right now lol and i gave tuck my carb and he said hes gonna jet it as close as 32:1 as he can, but he said im probably gonna have to do it...I have no clue what the jet looks like or how to jet it correct...also should I use just sae 10w30 or synthetic 10w30? the whole bottle/quart right? thanks.
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since u said you have no idea how to jet , i suggest you take it to a shop ( a shop charged me $60) to do the jetting.
you dont want to mess around with jetting cause you can make it run really lean and make the motor blow again which will SUCK HUGE .
now for the oil, ive heard synthetic makes the clutch slip cause syn. is more slippery than standard oil.
i personally use Bel-Ray Gear saver 85wt and its great, with perfect shifting.
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Ok I bought the new uni air filter on ebay for 20 bucks and wen I get it Ill oil it then throw it in the case. the stuff im worried about when I get my engine back from tuck is the jetting issue and if the motor will work. Also when I connect the carb to the bike and connect the throttle cable and screw the top back on...I pull the throttle and it goes down but doesnt go back up...is it cause of no gas?
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(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0056.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0057.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0056.jpg)
That's a little better... Crank is in the freezer, looking for something to fit the crank bearing for heat application.
Dropping in the crank and Closing up the case tomorrow.
Wer're getting there...
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Wow Tuck... Nice work :-o
Want a Bultaco motor next?
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Like Um. Yea um...Sure but like, I'm pretty sure you don't have to use a piece of glass to surface your parts!
And Ive seen your work...Sensei..
Here is a good place for Chris to start reading about Jetting.
http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php
Tuck\o/
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Wow Tuck thanks so much! Im gonna go out to a store and look for the right oil for the bike. Im gonna run just regular lawnmower 32:1 oil in the bike with super gas mix. THen im gonna go out to the store and look for a 10w30...any sugestions on what one I should get? I should probably get a good break-in oil? synthetic or no? Tuck, what do you use in your kx60? THanks.
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Ok went to the store and got just mobil regular 10w30 and made sure it didnt say energy conserving in the circle on the back cause thats what causes clutch slippage. All I needa do is go to the gas station and get a gallon and make the mix and im ready for when the engine arrives.
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:-o
Whoa there fella...The motor oil is for the Transmission... Stop running out and buying stuff.
Step back from the keyboard and take a deep breath!
The Air filter was a good Idea, not knowing what condition your present filter is in.
We have lots to talk about. let me e-mail you and we'll get this worked out.
I don't want to waste Dangers Bandwith.
You can be getting the rest of your bike ready to ride. I would like you to get a small plastic bag and wrap up the needle and slide hanging from the frame. I didn't realize you didn't know how to disconnect it and keep it with the carb.
Your going to need a few things you will be able to use.
1) A Ratio Rite Measuring cup. This comes in handy for all kinds of things.
2) Readily available Synthetic Two Stroke Pre-Mix Oil
Is there a motorcycle shop near you that you can get to? If you have to you, can get oil through E-bay.
Automotive places sell pre-mix too. Let me/us know what is available. we'll find an oil that you can get easily,
so you don't have to wait for the brown truck.
One step at a time...
Tuck\o/
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yes make sure you get 2 stroke oil.
and i recommend you mix the gas shortly before you get the bike ready so the gas dont go old
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Hey CM,
Before you get anything else I would like you to get this book. This is your assignment.
I know its a few years old, but it still has some 2stroke stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Motocross-Off-Road-Performance-Handbook-Motorbooks/dp/0760319758/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1310145333&sr=1-1
This is the new one, You will learn alot from it also, http://www.amazon.com/Four-Stroke-Motocross-Off-Road-Performance-Motorbooks/dp/0760340005/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1310145523&sr=1-3
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Whaaa? im confused?? I bought the oil to pour into the crankcase where it says 0.6L. And the thing that really confuses me is that I sent the needle and gold slide thing with the spring already attached when I sent the carb out. I disconnected it from the throttle cable and connected it to the carb. I already have the gas oil mix at 32:1 and ready to go....why would i need that ratio rite cup? I dont really have much money to keep throwing into the bike again. Thanks.
Chris
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Oh and I just opened the exhaust and cleaned and repacked it.
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Im gonna run just regular lawnmower 32:1 oil in the bike with super gas mix.
Thats a Big NO-No there chris.. Never run mower/weed eater/ chainsaw oil in a dirt bike...
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Noo I mean the little black craftsman cannisters of 2 cycle engine oil.
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hey guys. first pic is of the oil that i think im using. up to you guys? second pic is of the chart on the back of the both of the little black oil containers. third pic is of me repacking the kx muffler. and fourth pic is of the bikes and junk in my garage meanwhile we just sold a lot of stuff! lol Thanks guys.
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And to cheer you guys up a bit, I taught my little pup how to clutch! haha
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1. that is weed eater oil... wont work worth a d**n in a motorcycle
2. Mobile 1 is Synthetic oil... will make the clutch plates SWELL so the clutch will stick, and also slip.
3. when packing a mufler.. you wrap the packing around the Silancer (part laying on bench)... TIGHT... tape it, wire it, etc then JAM it back into the pipe..
4. Nice looking dog. :-D
5. I think you need more bicycles You dont have enough :lol:
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Hey Motorrad,
Ive been talking to Tuck and now I know that I am not going to use that craftsman oil. And the Mobil oil I bought is the non synthetic version lol. and Yes when I repacked it I wrapped it around it. Lol thanks about the dog, Ill tell her you said that :). And yeah Ive been trying to buy a warehouse of only like 3000 bikes, thats it haha. Thanks.
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:-D
Thanks Rad, I can use all the help I can get.
And I did find the slide, needle and spring...I still don't know how it all fit in the top of the carb without poking through the throat.
Chris is currently looking for a good pre-mix. Castor 927 would be my first pick as this is a non pv engine.
However it would necessitate keeping the top end clean....I asked him to see what was available local to keep from having to pay shipping charges. let us know what he finds and we can make a recommendation.
Cases are together and flywheel installed with custom woodruffkey (flat file and sore fingers) pics tonight.
I bet MoRad would make an Excellent Teacher...
MoRad's Motorcycle Restoration and Performance School... Beginner to MasterMechanic we have something for everyone!
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Oh ok you found it. I will look tomorrow for a premix. TUck, did the parts you ordered already come or something? didnt you have to order a clutch cover and a few bolts? I agree with the MoRad shop haha. THanks everyone. I will let you know about the premix.
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I went to sears and they didnt have any premix so i have to order that online somewhere...but while I was there I bought antifreeze. It says it protects against aluminum and works on any vehicle.
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sears wont have premix try somewhere else like a bike shop
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Well tomorrow im gonna go to like an auto parts store to try and find premix.
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If you have to go out of the way, just order it and have it shipped. You won't have to bother your folks.
Here's what happened today..
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0059.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0059.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0060.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0060.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0061.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0061.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0062.jpg)[/URL
Please Stand by... (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0062.jpg)
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Amazing Job! I could not thank you enough! Did you order the clutch cover or fix the crack? And did you find out where that random washer I gave you went?
Chris
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BOO-YA! It wasn't looking good when I came home and saw the condition of the box on my doorstep...
The first clue was the trail of peanuts from the curb to the door!
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0063.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0063.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0064.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0064.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_ChrisKX60003.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=ChrisKX60003.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_ChrisKX60001.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=ChrisKX60001.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_ChrisKX60002.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=ChrisKX60002.jpg)
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I went to sears and they didnt have any premix so i have to order that online somewhere...but while I was there I bought antifreeze. It says it protects against aluminum and works on any vehicle.
Just make sure its Silicate free..
silicates (abrasive in nature) damage the water-pump seals.
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Tuck, you should double or even triple box that motor when you send it back, and you should put styrofoam sheets between each box within the biggest box. just a tip :-D
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When I ship mine.. I wrape them in 2 T-shirts... then inside 2 Trashbags.... then I use EXPANDING foam to pack em... HEHE.. poor sucker on the other end gets to Carve it out of the foam..
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Nice! I dont care how long it takes me to unwrap it! As long as it arrives working. and Motorrad I will make sure. Thanks everyone.
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Hey guys,
when I receive the engine and carb and stuff back from tuck, what should I do? Ill throw the engine in the bike and connect everything, fill the oil and coolant, pour some gas in, and kick? Also if it starts how do I ware the rings in right? Thats the thing Im mostly scared about next to carb issues...thanks.
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I made a good post on it somewhere... I'll look for it..
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Don't worry '89 this aint my first BBQ :lol:
I all ready gave the Owner a proper Butt Chewing on following my Instructions for shipping.
We don't know the other side of the story,
and like Grandma's Pancakes...They May be thin, but they got two sides...Nuff said I'm over it.. :-D
I sold some KX-5 parts to pay for the clutchcover, so it may be a few days to get the replacement and install it and ship.
The engine does infact shift and there was no damage done account of the prior work on it.
Chris did do a good job, he just didn't have anyone there to verify his work. I hope he stops thanking me and thank Danger for keeping the doors open and using 16 pages of Bandwith! :-o
All kidding aside, the guys who hung in there with CM deserve all the credit.
Aside from the butt chewing I told him I'd mark the section in the Clymer on break -in of new top end.
Tuck\o/
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One tip I always give everyone...
EVERY TIME you get on the bike... Make sure the throttle opens and closes freely...
Before I start a Bike.. I always give it a full turn.. make sure it runs free... then turn it to 1/4 throttle, and let go of the throttle and make sure i can hear the "thunk" of the slide bottoming...
Had my trials bike try to run away from me once... throttle felt great... But It didnt "thunk".... (which I didnt check at the time)..... You ever try to kill a 300CC trials bike when its stuck at 1/2 throttle?! Yea... not exactly fun.. or easy..
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@ the good friar,
tuck, you are my hero, but you know this anyway. a good job well done.
@ chris,
i'm glad this has been resolved to a satisfactory mechanical standard, just remember to stand back and think about what your trying to do, your obviously a smart young man, but your youthful exuberance sometimes gets in your way, but we where all the same at your age.listen to the advice you get on oil and running the engine in, and follow it to the letter, and enjoy the bike.
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More good advice from "The Crew", Well said.
CM, there is one more part I looked everywhere for, the little clip that keeps the throttle cable in the brass adjuster in the top of the carb.
It looks like a cotter pin, you need that little buggar.
Tuck\o/
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Thanks for the advice everyone and I will surely read the top end wearin procedure. ANd Tuck,the funny thing is every time I had this bike when I attached the carburetor to the bike, it would go full throttle then not return all the way back up. So I have to order this little cotter pin and the water pump thing that you took pictures of?
CHris
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I'll install the waterpump shaft when I install the clutchcover.
The end is slotted and it was forced in once. I was able to clean up the end of the crank where it fits into with a little filing. That's not what did in the pump shaft it is just worn out.
I'll add that clip to the list of things to get, and put it on the carb.
It will all become clear when you see how it keeps the cable secured in the cap.
If your throttle was hanging WFO, more than likely the sheathing of the throttle cable is coming out of the top of the carb and hanging up.
The way I read the previous post it sounded like you were asking why it was doing that now with the carb removed.
Which of course there is no spring to pull it back.
Tuck\o/
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Oh ok I was looking for that clip for the carburetor but I guess youre buying it now lol. The previous post I was talking about it that way when the carb was connected. How much do I owe you Tuck?
Chris
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I Have to get that cover,waterpump shaft and the clip, as soon as I get it all together I'll let you know...
Nothing I hope, The Guy who has the recycling business doesn't have any small bike parts.
Please Stand By...
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Oh ok no problem. Take your time. I told my mom to buy a measuring cup for me soon so I can mix the premix that I bought. THanks everyone. i cant wait to start riding again.
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Oh ok no problem. Take your time. I told my mom to buy a measuring cup for me soon so I can mix the premix that I bought. THanks everyone. i cant wait to start riding again.
Do you have an iPhone chris?
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No, I dont.
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No, I dont.
iPod. Touch?
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Yep but I never use it
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Yep but I never use it
Reason I ask is because there is a KILLER fuel mix app that I use on the go.. That would help ya out...
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Dag Nabit...
That buggar should have fallen out when you turned the engine over and shook it...
Magnet didn't work...hmmmm...and your positive you saw it fall in....
Tell you what Chris, if you can ( or want ) to send the motor out here to me I'll find a way to get it sent back.
Wait 'till your piston gets there, box up everything you have for the engine and send it out.
Don't need the carb or pipe, and you've already drained the oil.
I don't want you to give up, and you've already spent so much time,energy and money I can't hardly stand to hear one more gremlin jump in on the project...
I have surgery scheduled for July 27 to have my right hip replaced so I have to ship it back to you in the next few weeks on account I won't be able to get around too well for a while after I get my new ball-joint...
Think about it. Send me a PM and I'll give you my home addy. I definitely have the time. I have a few more chainsaws I can sell for part money and return shipping.
I'll be looking forward to your E-mail.
Tuck\o/
Now thats called "Paying it Back"...........Tuck You Are a Good Man!
I`m with you brother.
Tuck, You are a Good Man!
Nothing like helping out the youth of the nation.
:mrgreen:
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Sheesh! You guys are killin' me
I know if you guys had the time you would'a done the same thing,
AND
Thanks to another Brotha' here I got the money to pay for the parts & send the engine Back.
If it weren't for you guys it wouldn't have happened. The saws I wanted to sell ended up needing parts. The piston on the 066 had some scoring and the 041 needs a carb kit. I couldn't in good conscience send them off to an e-bayer and have one not run and the other lose a piston.
When my wife realized that it wasn't my engine I was working on she went into system overload.
We had just gotten a $575 bill from the spine guy to add to the prev $5k.
I ran that tab up on my suspension work (l-5 S-1) and I still have to have both lower ball joints replaced.
Somehow it always works out. ( It's Good to have Friends In "High Places" :wink: )
CM is pretty bummed that it's gonna take a few more days. ( I swear the young man is doing A Buck Twenty-Five)
However I couldn't order the parts 'till I was sure I had it covered, and I didn't want him to have to spend anymore since I told him I would take care of it if he sent the engine out.
It all is working out and it's not me.
The parts are on the way and are paid for. Twenty minutes for clean-up upon arrival and ten minutes to install.
I like the Idea from Mo Rad about the foam, so 40 min to pack her up and she'll be on her way home.
Bolt it in, hook up the fuel, fill the rads and start the warm-up break in.
Tuck\o/
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Tuck,
Who said I was bummed out?!!?!? haha I said take your time lol. And so when the engine arrives, I am good with not filling the fuel, hooking up the spark plug, putting oil in it, and hooking up the rear brake? I mean who needs brakes! :p...haha just messin with ya Tuck. Its great that all of you came along and helped me out a lot. I enjoy learning about this stuff and working with all this and hopefully I will get better at it someday. Thanks everyone.
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Here is the retaining clip and how to install it.
This should resolve your sticking throttle.
Let me know if you need some pic's on installing the throttle cable to the slide valve.
This little clip is slick, small and hard to see when you drop it... While I was taking these pic's it shot across the garage and i would have never thought I was gonna find it. Small miracles happen every day!
This is the slot in the end of your throttle cable, the clip (When inserted through the slot in the brass adjuster)
Locks the throttle cable sheath to the top of the carb.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_throttlecableclip1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=throttlecableclip1.jpg)
And the slot the clip slides in to keep the whole mess together.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_throttlecableclip4.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=throttlecableclip4.jpg)
Insert the end of the cable into the adjuster, line up the slot in the end of the throttle cable.
Insert the Clip insuring the flat side of the "D" fits into the slot in the end of the throttle cable.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_throttlecableclip3.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=throttlecableclip3.jpg)
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Hey Tuck,
I have installed the throttle cable to the slide before but am new to this clip installation. Should only take me 5 mins to get on how to do it though lol. Did you receive all the parts yet? If so, is the engine shipped out? Thanks.
Chris
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CM,
I'm expecting the parts today or tomorrow, I'll let you know when I get them. You could be riding monday or tuesday.
You will more than likely have to remove the carb to get the engine in, so I'll put it in a separate box. I'll send it off with your book You can hook up the carb and put a zip-loc bag around it and wait for the rest of the engine.
I'll send it off today.
Here is the Slide and needle assembly, I want to make sure you got it.
The slide and needle
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable1.jpg)
Put the spring over the throttle cable
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable2.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable2.jpg)
Hold the spring back and put the cable in the slide and move it over to the "small" side of the keyhole in the slide.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable3.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable3.jpg)
Drop in the retainer and see that it sits flat with the tab in the eye of the keyhole.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable4.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable4.jpg)
Release the spring and see that the spring holds the needle/ cable holder flat in the bottom of the slide.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable5.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable5.jpg)
Drop the slide in the carb slowly minding the needle needs to drop in the needle jet and the large notch in the slide lines up with the idle screw. There is a small notch on the backside of the slide that keeps everything lined up as the slide moves up and down in the carb body.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable6.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Throttleslideneedlethrottlecable6.jpg)
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Ok, now I fully understand. Thank you for taking all the pictures to guide me through. I will be looking for the carb and manual. Where did you end up putting the mystery washer? Ok, lets go through the whole process when I receiv everything back. Ok so take the engine, connect the chain and bolt it in. Connect the carb properly. Connect the spark plug cord and the clutch cable. Connect rear brake. Connect all the hoses and other stuff. Fill with oil. Fill with antifreeze. fill with gas. Put all fenders and seat on. Ready to go?
Chris
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That sounds about right, Bolt the Engine in and fill the Tranny connect your rads and fill. -> Ignition Wires
Carb, There is a little notch in the top of the carb boot, line up the notch on the carb and tighten the clamp(s) Make sure the throttle operates the slide properly The little brass fitting on top of the carb will also adjust your throttle freeplay. Check your clymer in the fuel section.
Spark Plug & Wire -> Chain & Brakes If the kill button malfunctions and you have to kill the engine put it in gear grab both brakes and let out the clutch...
Fuel tank and seat -> Fenders Then start your break-in. I put a sticky note in the section of the book.
It should be pretty straight forward. I'll get the parts on and ship her out as fast as I can. I would like to see a vid of you whooping it up as bad as you would like to make one!!
Oh yea... The washers went on either side of the clutch basket. See Fig.# 92022
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/CLUTCH
Tuck\o/
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Ok sounds great. If I had a video camera I would haha. Thanks everyone.
Chris
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Fig # 92308
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/GENERATOR
Woodruff Key for flywheel. This tells the igntion when to fire and creates the energy for spark.
The key lines everything up. The pressure from the two tapered parts pressed together is what keeps the flywheel tight.
Key #2 Fig #92308 (you have to drag the image up and left to see the end of the crankshaft) same size as previous key.
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/CRANKSHAFT~PISTON%28S%29
This one is on the waterpump drive. One end of the waterpump drive shaft fits in the end of the crankshaft the other end is threaded to recieve the bolt side of the waterpump impeller. They have to be lined up just right when the case half is installed or the ends of the pump and the crank will be damaged. I filed the end of the crank and that will be ok.
The Keyed end of the waterpump was salvageable, however the chrome was wore off the end that passed through the seal in the waterpump housing and would have started leaking if it wasn't allready.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_IMGP0021.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=IMGP0021.jpg)
Computor probs Arghhh Back later
-
Ive never played with a Kx60..... But there has been no mention of coolant bleeding.. etc... just "Put coolant in and go" even bikes that dont need the head bled... cant just Juice and go...
("Put coolant in and go" im trying to read these instructions through chris's eyes)..
also.. do you know how to properly adjust the chain chris? which way the master link goes? etc.... these things will bite you if you dont do it right..
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Mo,
The coolant return is right off the top of the cyl.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_CopyofIMGP0032.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=CopyofIMGP0032.jpg)
The instructions in the clymer for break in include filling the cooling system.
(there are no provisions for bleeding the system I remember reading.)
Fill to the bottom of the neck on rad, warm up and check level after the first heat cycle.
A small coolant overflow/catch tank would be great. However like you said looking at this through the owners perspective, maybe we could start something like that in a follow-up.
Everything a guy needs to know is in there, but you have to actually read through the book.
I couldn't get my boys to even read through their Owners Manual!
I did send the book back along with the carb. (I was going to leave it on and then figured it would have to be removed to get the engine back in the frame.)
Hoping CM would read through it.
Tuck\o/
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If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all!
I got the cover today in the mail!
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Replacementsidecover51-Copy-1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Replacementsidecover51-Copy-1.jpg)
I'll get get right after cleaning it up and pulling the old seals.
it's pretty nasty in person...
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Replacementsidecover52-Copy-1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Replacementsidecover52-Copy-1.jpg)
Plucked out the kickstart seal no probleamo..
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Replacementsidecover53-Copy-1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Replacementsidecover53-Copy-1.jpg)
Turned it over to pull the drain Bolt..WHAT :-o ARE YOU KIDDIN' ME !!
AARrgghh...
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Replacementsidecover55-Copy.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Replacementsidecover55-Copy.jpg)
I don't know Who Has worse Luck CM or ME!
I'm soaking it in penetrating fluid right now.. I am still waiting for the H2o pump shaft.
I'll try a few more ideas while waiting for the pump shaft. (Which should be here tomorrow.7/15)
If I can't get it to budge I'll clean the bolt head up and CM will have to pull the Pump cover to drain the coolant until another sidecover can replace it.
Unfortunately a "New" one is $185.00 plus shipping.
I don't want to keep the Owner waiting any longer. All were waiting for is the Water pumpshaft
Tuck\o/
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Heat it with a torch..
Heli coils at last resort
-
:-D
I'm gonna try the oven first, then the torch.
What I'm afraid of is cracking the case/breaking off the water pump cavity. The aluminum is pretty thin around there.
T\o/
-
:-D
I'm gonna try the oven first, then the torch.
What I'm afraid of is cracking the case/breaking off the water pump cavity. The aluminum is pretty thin around there.
T\o/
Torch. And continuously tap tap tap with a small ball peen hammer.. The heat, and minor shock from the hammer loosens stuff up good..
Minor tap tap.. Like weight of hammer (small one) dropped it's own weight from about 3" up...
Don't get it too hot... Heat cycles are the key... Expand, contract, expand , contract.....
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Dude,
I did the heat, Bang about 7 or 8 times, Then I remembered I had this Freeze spray stuff . Heat case freeze bolt 2x's.
Also chomping away with the Vice grips.
What the heck...Found center of bolt best I could punched it. Worse case senario was the insert...
I put a piece of cardboard on the workbench and tex screwed the case right to the bench. :-o
Made a pilot hole and went three more sizes...
Look where the last drill came out ...They don't call me dead eye for nuthin'...well.. They don't call me dead eye,
for obvious reasons!
Tapped in an easy out and POP! :-o I thought I snapped the case.
That buggar came out and never nicked the threads in the case.
Thank You Lord.. Can I Get an Amen out there! :lol:
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_miraclebolt1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=miraclebolt1.jpg)
What was left of the head before I decided to drill...
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_miraclebolt2.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=miraclebolt2.jpg)
Thank God! I thought I was gonna bust that thing as sure as shootin'...
What was I gonna tell Chris was all I kept thinkin'
Thanks Mo,
Tuck \o/
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Sounds like its all goin good! That bolt still is useful...in the garbage! Tuck, let me know when its ready to go and shipped out. Good news too! My birthday is coming up on August 7th as my 14th birthday and I usually find my birthday present then they buy it so not much of a suprise but...I found a nice little ktm sx 50 pro junior lc....for $350 and it works perfect! Now I have my kx to be a serious rider and not to fool around with then I have a ktm to fool around with lol! Heres the bike:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270781926747&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123
Whadya think?
THanks guys.
Chris
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Oh and TUck...due to my bad luck I was going swimming at my friends house and didnt realize my phone was still in my pocket and there goes the end of the phones life...dpnt bother texting or calling lol! THanks.
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Submerse the phone in a sealed bag of rice & leave it for 2 days. I just learned of this & was told it has saved numerous devices.
DoldGuy
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Haha Doldguy Ive tried that...Ive even tried opening the phone literally to the screen and motherboard...total engine rebuild haha...but I just bought a kin two for 20 bucks...my old phone had a 3.2 mp camera and this new one has an 8.0 mp! better pictures! and Tuck I received your manual today! I wish you didnt spend 12 bucks to just ship the manual thats it.
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Well,
You have something to read to put you to sleep!
There really is alot of good info in there, it explains all about the fuel system and how it works, jetting etc.
If you are gonna get another bike you should get yourself a good torque wrench and take care of it.
The first one should read inch lbs. and a larger one later for Ft. lbs
A KTM Pro for $350, That is a heck of a deal if it's the truth! I think the KX will be on the back burner if you get the KTM.
All kidding aside, even the first part of the clymer has lots of explanation on how to use the tools properly and what you'll need to keep the bikes happy.
Maybe you could have your own section here on the site for guys just starting out. Us old guys forget what it was like and we could get you (or whomever) fast tracked ahead of all the mistakes we made when we were younger.
Sorry to hear about your phone Buddy. I lost count how many devices my three kids went through. Ipods Itouch palm s htc diamond Oiy!!! You know how many tools and parts I could have gotten!
Take Care My Friend, I'm expecting the H2o shaft today!
Tuck\o/
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That KTM is UmmHow would MoRad say it... oh ya SHWEET!!
T\o/
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Actually I was reading it on the couch before. Not much on breaking in the bike though. THat half a page is all. I have a torque wrench but why would I need that for the ktm or the kx? Im not opening the engines anytime soon lol! No doubt the kx will be a faster bike and definetely my favorite. Not quite getting what you said about it being on the back burner. Keep in mind I am 14. haha! I understand. I will be looking forward to receiving the engine. Did the carb clip come in the mail yet?
Chris
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At 14 you're very soon going to outgrow the KTM 50 and KX60. Just curious what size you currently are? I was a big kid at that age, I think I got my 350 at 13.
-
CM,
The carb is in a separate box that should have arrived with the manual. (I sent them the same day)
It might get there tomorrow. I gave you the clip off my 500. (It's in the wiseco bag with the carb.)
You can hook up the carb and cable and have it ready for the engine.
We're waiting for the H2o pump Shaft.
Motosport said it was in stock and I usually get things from them fast.
They have a large warehouse about 200 mi. north of me in Bend Oregon.
Tuck\o/
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that freeze spray is some cool stuff,
but next time don`t aim it at your fingers. :roll:
just kiddin Tuck ol boy.
great job,
and sealed bag and rice?
wtf?
What does that do?
inquiring minds want ta know
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Hey Buddy,
The rice acts as a desiccant and draws the moisture out of the phone.
I got the funds today from our Philanthropist. You will have made a young Brutha' very happy when this things
Fires up. I matched the ports, (there were no two alike) Matched the intake gaskets, raised the exhaust 1.5mm and widened the exhaust to 21 mm & Opened up the exhaust flange to meet the crush ring marks.
Tuck\o/
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I am 5' 1" and 85 pounds lol! The carb didnt arrive today so I will be expecting it tomorrow probably. Ok thats fine.
Chris
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And Tuck USPS arrived today and no carb...Was it shipped usps or ups?
Chris
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Hey Buddy,
The rice acts as a desiccant and draws the moisture out of the phone.
I got the funds today from our Philanthropist. You will have made a young Brutha' very happy when this things
Fires up. I matched the ports, (there were no two alike) Matched the intake gaskets, raised the exhaust 1.5mm and widened the exhaust to 21 mm & Opened up the exhaust flange to meet the crush ring marks.
Tuck\o/
That`s a great idea. A guy can pick up so much stuff.
My thing is I need to slow down and take my time.
I know it`s hard with the way the world is on full throttle mode these days.
Sounds like Chris is gunna have the quickest 60 in town.
Hope the young man has some ridin gear. :wink:
ya know what ya would get if UPS and FedEx went into buisness together.
FeedUp.
Get it Chris.
Hope your bike is as fast as you cat.
Out
COB
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Great...
I sent the carb priority usps. Let me see if I can track it down... I insured it for $100.
Maybe we'll be getting you a carb off an 80...Zoom Zoom!
Well this is just dandy, or should I say Par for the course...
The items at Motosport are in stock waiting to ship at the warehouse....for what I don't know. I sent CM a copy of the e-mail ..I could have ordered direct from Kawasaki by now...
The carb box Shipping #13093480000045899537 zone#8 Priority Mail
The post office has no record of the package or the Clymer I sent the same day Shipping # 13093480000045899414
I could box up the engine and send it Back to CM & fwd the parts on to him when I DO receive them.
The only part of the process that concerns me is the H2o pump shaft has to line up in the slot in the drive gear off the crank, while at the same time passing through the bearing and seal located in the sidecover.
With all the talk about how long it takes to get your work done,
What do you guys think?
Tuck\o/
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Hats off to you Tuck and everyone else thats put in a helping hand. that kx should have many trouble free ride hours ahead of it
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One thing I learned the hard way over the years is patience is a virtue. Especially when dealing with rebuilds. The young fella waited this long he might as well see it through. Sometimes these things happen. To all of us. I say keep it and finish her right. You put alot of time and effort in the build, and I would love to see the young buck get alot of ride time out of the bike. You are the man tuck, wish the world had many more like you!
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the support. Tuck, I would rather wait for you to be done than send it to me and me doing something wrong and getting all sad cause I have to go into the engine again! lol. And Tuck, dont worry how long it takes. I am in no hurry. It's fine. Thanks again.
Chris
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Oky Dokey,
I did get an e-mail the parts we need are indeed enroute, as of 12:30am last night.
Please stand by...
Tuck\o/
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Sounds good. I really hope the carb didnt get lost in the mail...did u get a tracking number with it?
Chris
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The number is also in a previous post, here it is again.
The carb box Shipping #13093480000045899537 zone#8 Priority Mail
I punched in the number and it said not found, if you don't get the carb in the mail today I'll file a claim.
I insured it for $100.00, We'll get you a new carb from a kx80 (Zoom Zoom!) and have it shipped to you.
Let me know if receive the carb today.
Tuck\o/
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Thats weird that it doesnt have record. Anyways about 20 minutes ago I walked into the kitchen and I see a box with my name on it! Its the carb! lol I opened it. Man, did you do quite a nice job packing that thing double boxed and all. I cant wait to unwrap my engine! Anyways the fuel lines look new...weirddd....Anyways it came!
Chris
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Anyways the fuel lines look new...weirddd.... :?
:oops:
Weird? :lol:
Those are Tygon, they won't get brittle,dry or crack. You will have to cut them to length.
I'm glad it arrived, Be careful installing that Clip, they have a tendency to fly across the room!
Make sure the throttle operates without sticking.
Tuck\o/
Tygon Tubing: http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/Tygon-F4040A-Fuel-Tubing.pdf
-
hEY tuCK,
I got to install the carb to the bike and its perfect! It moves correct and doesnt stick! Those tygon tubes are awesome. I can feel the difference between the old ones.
Chris
-
I was concerned the throttle was gonna work properly. good deal..
T\o/
-
Now were waiting on those parts to arrive! Just wondering but whats that washer for?
Chris
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There is a very thin, washer that goes between the bearing and the pin that pushes (or Releases) the clutch.
see fig # 92200 (if you right click on the image and then click "view image" it will be a bigger pic)
It should fit the dia. of the pin just right and put pressure on the bearing face and not the cage.
The washers I had and I got from the auto parts and hardware were too thick.
There was no freeplay in the clutch when installed, it was actually compressing the springs a bit . That would have definitely led to premature clutch failure. Just like the woodruff keys & the mystery washer, the smallest detail can make all the difference.
92200 92200-1197 WASHER, 7X12.5X0.8
(http://partstream.arinet.com/Image?arik=i5afpErLYUAygj6X9I7w&arib=KUS&arim=JvM0ptJQlXU4CWUY_q7DNA2&aria=_6WP9yxqb-c5Q-eIc9Vrrw2&ariz=3)
Tuck\o/
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Ohhh I understand.
-
Its a little dead in here haha. Parts come TUck?
-
:-D
YES!
I had an appointment at the hospital this morning and when I got home I saw the Parts and got to work...
Installed and boxing up engine.
Shipping In the Morning, so you could be Riding by Tuesday!
Gotta get this thing boxed up.
This box is 12x12x16
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Finalpics1.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Finalpics1.jpg)
The parts could be laid on one finger...
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Finalpics2.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Finalpics2.jpg)
All buttoned up!
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Finalpics3.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Finalpics3.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Finalpics4.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Finalpics4.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/th_Finalpics6.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/?action=view¤t=Finalpics6.jpg)
Tuck\o/
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Nice Job! Let me know about the tracking number tomorrow. THanks again!
CHris
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its awesome that tuck did it! :-D good job man 8-)
-
what a cute little engine (im a weirdo :lol:)
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No Sir Marco,
You are correct! :-D
T\o/
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haha, it is a cute engine, isnt it.
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Ok Kiddo,
It's All up to you now...Receipt #03102010000121551523 40# .04oz
I put an old plug in the engine from a chainsaw I repaired, so just throw that away when you get the engine.
That was there just to keep junk out of the cyl.
There is an iridium plug I put in the box with your plug. Run my B8eix while you break in the engine and then check the color if it's not black fouled, run it for your first 1/2 hour and check it again.
It is one heat range hotter than your plug. Since your supposed to take it easy the first ride after the heat cycles you should be fine.
Put your B9 plug in when your ready to find out what she's got. Oh yea, Let us know what you think!
Tuck\o/
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Cant Wait!!! Expected delivery is the 29th and Im going up to connecticut to pick up the ktm 50. So ill be riding the little 50 with not much power until I can do some real riding on my new KX60!!! Thanks so much Tuck! I hope to do the same thing to a kid when I am older!
I will run that B8 plug the first few days as you said then change it to the normal B9...Do you just know and you can feel when it is fully broken in?
Chris
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If I remember the book says to do a few heat cycles and then ride the bike the first half hour at no more than half or 3/4 throttle. After that let's see what she's got! :lol:It's GO TIME! :lol:
You'll have to go back and read it.
After the half hour session check the plug . Your gonna have to determine if you need the #9 plug by what the #8 looks like. Trail riding I would think the 8 is good. but you have to look at the plug and the chart in the manual and make a decision.
If you are holding the throttle wide open for more than 30seconds at a time you need the #9 plug.
Hows that for a rule of thumb.
I have seen those things run 30seconds wide open and you need a lot of real estate to be able to do that in!
The heat ranges on the ngk plugs need more heat to reach operating temp the higher the number.
So a b7es is going to get alot hotter (all things being equal) than a b9es
The plug needs to get hot enough to keep most of the oil burnt off and not foul, but cool enough not to burn a hole in your piston!
T\o/
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Ok I will check. I usually would keep the throttle open for about 20 or 30 seconds. Ill look into it after the engine is all ready and thrown in the bike. The hardest part of me reassembling it is the swingarm bolt and getting the chain on...I put the engine back on the bike without unscrewing the back wheel or anything so its pretty difficult. I doubt this bike will have any problems when its running now. The only thing Im scared about is when Im high in the powerband im scared ill flip the bike. I like speed!
Chris
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make sure you adjust the chain correctly!!! that can cause all sorts of issues
-
Finaly read where I left off...
Love it tuck... Great work...
I cant express enough how good you are to do this for the kiddo...
threads like this are the poster child for the reason KXriders is the best site on the net...
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Well motorrad...i never moved the chain from where it was...I always just unbolted the engine and pulled it out...didnt touch the back wheel...do I still have to do something after you know that?
Chris
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Well motorrad...i never moved the chain from where it was...I always just unbolted the engine and pulled it out...didnt touch the back wheel...do I still have to do something after you know that?
Chris
Have you read your Clymer manual yet!?
If you have.. you would know your answer is wrong... Just because you didnt adjust it, doesnt mean it was right int he first place....
Read your CLymer manual...
if the chain is loose... you risk busting the cases in half.. if your chain is tight, you risk bending the output shaft on the tranny...
(and many other bad ugly things)
READ YOUR CLYMER MANUAL OR ILL SHOW UP AND THUMP YOU IN THE HEAD WITH IT
some motivation
(http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/general-sportbikes/88718d1151643759-what-damage-can-loose-chain-cause-268818257_l.jpg)
(http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9332.0;attach=10914)
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Ouch! that motivated me haha! but I dont have any tools. I will read up on the clymer manual and see wat they have after I get back from connecticut for the ktm today.
-
yup listen to Motorrad. Ive had a chain come off and break my shifter shaft (could of been worse)
-
Ouch! that motivated me haha! but I dont have any tools. I will read up on the clymer manual and see wat they have after I get back from connecticut for the ktm today.
If you dont have any tools.. how did you get the motor in and out of your bike?
Only takes 2 wrenches to adjust a chain..
-
Dirt Bike Chain Adjustment and Lubrication
Proper chain adjustment and lubrication on a dirt bike is key to long chain and sprocket life. Specifications for dirt bike chain adjustment can be found within most owner's manuals and can also be found within dirt bike repair manuals.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsBycase5vw&feature=related
Have you read your manual?
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys...I got my ktm today and MAN THAT THING IS LOUD AND FAST!!! LOUDER THAN MY KX!! haha and it has an fmf pipe...I turned the bike on cause it wasnt staying on so i adjusted the idle...also I think this is normal on the ktm and it doesnt move forward until hitting a certain rpm then it will move...also about the chain I just unbolted the 3 bolts under the engine and pulled it out and i put it back in like that too...i didnt touch the chain...cant wait for my engine to get here! Thanks guys
Chris
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Ok Mister Where Are THE PICCY's :-D
it doesnt move forward until hitting a certain rpm then it will move...
The KTM is an Auto clutch,
or Centrifugal Clutch. 50cc liquid cooled engine with 3 shoe adjustable centrifugal clutch assembly. 19mm carbuetor and hydralic disc brakes from and rear.
Did the Prev Owner give you an owners manual or service manual with the bike?
Your Gonna need one CM.
I turned the bike on cause it wasnt staying on so i adjusted the idle...
Slow down Padna, you are talking to Old Timers..
Are you saying the bike was set up not to Idle, so you turned up the idle where you like it. Right?
This is gonna have to be started in the "My Other Bike" thread. Oh Yea, Happy Birthday!
http://ktm50.com/
(http://ktm50.com/ktm50sx.jpg)
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no he didnt give me an owners manual. The idle was set so if you didnt continuously rev the engine the bike would shut off but i like my bikes to stay on so i turned it a half a turn while it was running and it stays on now. And not till august 7th is my birthday! haha but thanks!
Chris
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heres the little 50
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Hey guys,
About the 50 again. After a ride, I turn the killswitch off and the gas off and Im done...Then when I go for a ride again I turn the gas back on and the killswitch on then just start kicking automatically. It takes a lot of kicks to turn over about 10 kicks. I think its probably cause the carburetor is clogged or something. The guy ran 40:1 and Im running 32:1. If I took the carb off of it could I send the carb to someone and they will clean it? amateur at carburetors... Thanks.
Chris
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Hey CM,
Great looking Bike! Why don't you start a new thread in "My Other Bike"
I'm having my new parts installed wed so I'll be out of commission for a bit. :|
There are plenty of video's and write ups on how to service your new carb. I think you can do this.
Save the money it would cost you to take the bike to a service center and get a good chest protector an leat brace.
Think about it..
Tuck\o/
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Hey CM,
Great looking Bike! Why don't you start a new thread in "My Other Bike"
I'm having my new parts installed wed so I'll be out of commission for a bit. :|
There are plenty of video's and write ups on how to service your new carb. I think you can do this.
Save the money it would cost you to take the bike to a service center and get a good chest protector an leat brace.
Think about it..
Tuck\o/
Also... there is a time in life you need to just bite the bullet and learn..
The Clymer manual for your KX is pretty close to what the KTM internals look like.
Just thinking of a friend I have...
He has.. Hmm.. 8 bikes? and only 1 runs. they all ran when he got them.. But.. since he always asked for others to do the work for him.. etc.. he never learned how to do his own wrenching, cant fix them himself (all easy stuff), and cant afford to pay a service center to do it....
READ YOUR CLYMER...
Me and tuck will find somthing on the net that is a good tutorial.. (cleaning out jets)
and DIVE IN... and learn..
If you cant get it to work. that is when you ask for help... not before you even put forth any effort..
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when i bought my 500 in 2006, I knew nowt about strokers.after being on here after discovering this site in 2009, and lots of reading and being systematic theres now no part of the engine which i find daunting.have a pop yourself, if need be take pics so you can see how it went together.K.
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Yeah I knowww...I think i wont touch it for now...I just dont want this bike dying out like the kx. Thanks guys. Good luck with the surgery Tuck!
CHris
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Greatt! I have the best luck with dirt bikes! I go into the garage to try andstart my ktm and it starts and I ride it then a half hour later I go to try to startit and it doesnt start. I took the brand new spark plug out and cleaned it...took off the air filter and tried...choke didnt work...cracking the throttle didnt work...I know it is the carb Im pretty sure. Why must this happen!
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Update: I took the spark plug out cleaned it with wd40..then it fired right up...then I went riding with my friend and it died and it wouldnt go back on...when I got home I cleaned with wd40 and started right back up? just a new spark plug? and what is a spark plug gap? I know I shold start a new thread buuut while theres this much peple in here its fine.
Chris
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carb tuning, you need to learn or have a shop do it for you
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I researched a lot and I came to a point where its either the spark plug gap isnt adjusted correctly or the plug cord isnt putting out enough electrodes...the cord on the spark plug is very loose and doesnt pop on so Im gonna look at it tomorrow. Im gonna buy a little 5 dollar spark plug gapper tool. Thanks.
Chris
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good luck with that
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or you could just get a new spark plug for that thing, should be about the same price and then you know if it's the plug or not!
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Well if the spark plug wire cap doesn't clip onto the plug, there's your problem.
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well I got needle nose pliers in the little cap so it kinda clips on...I contacted the guy I bought it from and he was running 40:1 in it and Im using the 32:1 that im using for my kx too so he said that might be the problem. Waiting for the engine to arrive in the mail today!
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Hey guys.
The kx engine arrived beautifully thanks to Tuck! It looks buffed and polished thats how good it looks! I put it in the bike and I cant get it to start. Everything is connected and every part is on. When I try to second gear drop it, it doesnt start and the back wheel doesnt lock, it just gets harder to push. The next day when I went back in the garage I saw a huge spill on the floor. Probably from leaving the gas on. I dont know if its oil or gas. This thing just wont start. I know its definetely not the engine cause Tuck did a beautiful job with that but possibly the carb or spark. Thanks guys.
Chris
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Oy! I was hoping she would fire in three kicks...
First off what was spilled on the floor?
Here's a quick list off the top of my head.
Filled the transmission Check
Got the carb secured on the intake boot after removing the paper towel. check
And secured the other side of the carb to the airbox boot
The carb cable was already to go, so next would be the fuel line to the carb.
The wires I believe can only be hooked up one way, They are bullet connectors.
Make sure they snap into place and your cdi is mounted securely. There is a ground wire that needs to touch clean metal.
The next thing we'll do is check for spark.
Pull the plug and use that spark plug I shipped with the engine, if you havent already tossed it.
if you don't have it. get a long screwdriver that you can put in the spark plug cap and hold near the engine while you kick. Be Careful! If you are not holding the plasic or rubberend of the screwdriver you will get zapped.
If you do have the plug,Snap it in the plug boot and hold it so its touching the metal on the engine somewhere.
Again, holding either the wire or plug cap is fine. You try to hold the metal on the plug while you kick and you get zapped!
You're gonna have to give the engine a good coupla' kicks and watch the plug for fire.
We are looking for a bright blue spark, you will actually hear a "Snap" on a good spark.
Check that and I'll stick with you. I can only get to the batroom and the kitchen so I won't be far!
T\o/
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I believe it was gas. I am 90 percent sure it was gas. transmission...check. carb secured but you forgot to send the little clamp that clamps the reed part to the carb. fuel line connected to carb...check...Im gonna check the cdi and all the wiring after im done with the shelving in my garage. those two stator wires are connected and clicked in. I dont know what it is. I know that your suppose to check for spark by putting the spark plug tip against another peice of metal but that never worked for me. I have never seen a spark so I dont know. And why do you think the backwheel isnt locking when I put it in gear? TThanks.
Chris
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The carb boot clamp was on the boot and the reed block was bolted on, Check and see if the clamp didn't get snagged on the plastic bag and got pulled off. See last pic (below) before she went "In The Box"
I was retyping while you posted check above for spark test.
How much slack do you have in the clutch lever?
T\o/
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/KX%2060/th_Finalpics6.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/KX%2060/?action=view¤t=Finalpics6.jpg)
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I will check again for the carb boot clamp tomorrow. I dont know why it wont start. Do you know why the back wheel doesnt lock? Before I sent you my engine, the clutch mechanism in the case that you bought moved back and forth and when I received it it doesnt move so it was very hard to put the cord on. The clutch is very tight.
Chris
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Sorry, we had a power failure for a coupl hrs. go figure...
The washer was missing between the clutch release button, and the thrust bearing. I Fixed (or replaced) it.
When you hooked up your clutch it was adjusted to take up the slack (or space) the washer should have.
All you had to do was adjust your clutch freeplay.
When you remove your cable the clutch arm moves quite freely, I polished it, and the corner of arm that cams over the release button.
What you have right now is a clutch that is always applied or Slipping.
It's a good thing the engine didn't start.
You would have fried the clutch!
So Step by Step:
Get a crescent wrench and open it to fit the clutch arm. Don't use Channel locks, pliers or vice grips, it digs into the clutch arm and leaves sharp edges. I filed them down so you wouldn't get cut.
Apply pressure and remove the cable. (towards the little Perch that holds the adjuster)
WE have to start over.
Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable at the little perch and let all the slack out.
Unwind or put back all the slack available in your clutch lever at the perch.
Now you should be able to hook up your clutch cable.
We are gonna adjust out most of the freeplay at the cable near the clutch arm or the bottom end of the cable.
That way you can quickly adjust the lever if you need to later up top.
Check your Clymer for the amount of clutch freeplay and dial it in.
Lock the cable in at the bottom there are usually two nuts 10 or 12 mm.
Tuck\o/
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No problem.
I have a crescent wrench or as I know it as called an adjustable wrench :p
I dont really understand what I have to do. Do I have to buy a washer? cause the cable and everything is attached. are you saying that the case that you had to replace has to be taken off and worked on?
Chris
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#1... if you start it without the Carb clamp on.... You will cook a motor and be right back where you started.....
#2. adjustment for the clutch is made up on the bars... (screw the adjuster all the way in... feel for freeplay and adjust from there)..
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:lol:
SLOW DOWN! I can't type that fast! Re-read the above post. You don't need to buy anything. You don't need to remove any engine parts.
Mo-Rad Is (and Rightly so!) concerned about getting the engine started without the carb secured to the intake Boot.
This will cause a lean condition that (most likely) could lead to a run-away, ruining the engine again and in short order.
I'm going to look for a video on how to adjust your clutch and how to check for spark.
Let me see if I can clear this up, the clutch currently has no freeplay and the clutch is slipping in gear.
What this tells me is there is so much pressure on the clutch arm the bike can be pushed in gear and the tire is rolling.
Just to get the clutch fully released may take more adjustment than what is available at the lever.
That's why I want to make sure the bottom of the cable is not only attached correctly, but most of the adjustment is done, just as you would when you would replace the cable.
We'll do one thing at a time. and figure this out.
You are more lucky than you think.
If the bike would have started the clutch would have fried quickly. The carb clamp not withstanding!
That thing was on pretty snug , and I'm trying to figure out what else was missing from the reed block?
T\o/
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
I think he needs to start from scratch. Well heck, It doesn't matter to me as long as he get's the clutch adjusted :-D
I always made the inital adjustment at the bottom of the cable and left the fine adjustment at the lever.
T\o/
Id much rather have to buy and install a new clutch due to frying it.... than a piston, bearings, etc etc... due to a air leak..
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:lol: :lol:
Oh Good Grief... I said we were gonna do one thing at a time Mo-rad. Stick with the program :lol:
The clamp is there, I can't remember if I used old towels or shirts, then two plastic bags..
( Hey doesn't this sound familiar)
I got a big can of the spray foam and 4 or 5 burlap sacks my kids left here from summer camp last year.
I'm sure there was a big mess to clean up add a little enthusiasm and I think the clamp ended up in the shirt/towel or blue plastic bag.
Bottom line DO NOT TRY TO START THE BIKE WITHOUT THE CARB CLAMP!!
Enuff for tonight it's way too late back east. turn off the computor text me tommorrow at 12:00 noon NJ time and we'll continue!
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Ok I will look for the carb clamp tomorrow. Are you guys talking about me having to open the clutch cover and fool around with stuff or just adjusting the handle and the two bolts on the clutch arm?
Chris
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AARRrghh!
I'm Calling your parents and telling them to duct tape you on a work stool and only leave one hand free to work on the KX.
ONE THING AT A TIME
If You Read this before you call, I want you to release the tension on the clutch.
You Wanna know why the wheel was turning while you tried to push start it.
I am gonna show you why it happened
I am gonna show you How to remedy it (well I already did but we are spinning our wheels here four posts later)
But we are only gonna do one thing at a time... if you want to know whats next.
We are gonna make sure your carb didn't fill your engine with fuel oil mix and figure out why that happened.
That's all you get to know now.
WHY your bike is in gear and you can push it rolling the rear tire.
The washer was missing between the clutch release button, and the thrust bearing.
I Fixed (or replaced) it.
When you hooked up your clutch it was adjusted to take up the slack (or space) the washer should have.
All you had to do was adjust your clutch freeplay. (Which is what we are going to do first.)
When you remove your cable the clutch arm moves quite freely, I polished it, and the corner of arm that cams over the release button.
What you have right now is a clutch that is always applied or Slipping.
It's a good thing the engine didn't start.
You would have fried the clutch! Well Like Mo-Rad Pointed out, the engine probably would have run away without that carb mounted properly, and then it would have been back to square one with a blown engine!
So Step by Step:
Get a crescent or adjustable wrench (or an open end large enough)
and open it to fit the clutch arm. Don't use Channel locks, pliers or vice grips, it digs into the clutch arm and leaves sharp edges. I filed the ones that were on there down, so no-one would get cut.
Apply pressure and remove the cable. (towards the little Perch that holds the adjuster)
WE have to start over.
Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable at the little perch and let all the slack out.
Unwind or put back all the slack available in your clutch lever at the perch.
Now you should be able to hook up your clutch cable.
We are gonna adjust out most of the freeplay at the cable near the clutch arm or the bottom end of the cable.
That way you can quickly adjust the lever if you need to later up top.
Check your Clymer for the amount of clutch freeplay and dial it in.
Lock the cable in at the bottom there are usually two nuts 10 or 12 mm.
Look it up in your CLYMER " how to adjust your clutch freeplay"
Read it follow it it should look something like this.
If there is any question what to do. Stop.
Are you guys talking about me having to open the clutch cover and fool around with stuff or just adjusting the handle and the two bolts on the clutch arm?
No Not even Close....
Help me out here guys:
What am I not getting across. I just want him to adjust the clutch freeplay.
Maybe someone else can fill in the blanks.
We will get to the other problems.
Later
T\o/
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Help me out here guys:
What am I not getting across. I just want him to adjust the clutch freeplay.
I think your stressing it to much Tuck. The engine isnt in your hands anymore. all you can do is give advise and hope for the best
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW6NVS6_9yo
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Thanks MO-Rad
Since CM has to re-attach the cable at the bottom end or Clutch arm, I want to make sure it's attached correctly.
Essentially he is replacing the clutch cable, threading the cable through the bike is allready done.
I have had more than one bike come in with both nuts on same side of cable attachment point.
Take up the largest portion of adjustment in the lower cable adjustment, and dial in the lever.
As it stands, I don't know if he can get enough adjustment out of the lever alone, as there were some parts missing when it was adjusted by prev owner.
I think your stressing it to much Tuck
Yes Marco you are Correct... :|
What I need you to see is how he hooks up the bottom end of the clutch cable to the arm coming out of the sidecase.
The Two nuts on the end of the clutch cable secure it to the mount off the back of your cyl head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHhNsYLZVD0
When that's all good we can move on.
T\o/
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I watched all the videos and took all your advice and I did put the cable in that exact way...Although I didnt adjust it...This whole time I was saying how to adjust it I ment how to TUNE it! LOL! SOrry guys. I will head to the garage for now.
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Well, Hang on lets get this straightened out.
You installed the engine and had to attach and adjust the clutch cable.
Once the cable was attached you Adjusted the Freeplay.
The FreePlay is the amount of travel at the lever Before the clutch starts to engage.
Another way to say it would be how much Free Travel You Have in the cable at the lever Before The Clutch starts to engage.
Look in your clymer for what it is supposed to be.
There will also be directions on how to adjust it.
CM found the Carb clamp and installed it...and before I could type out the next set of instructions He started the bike and blasted off....
Tuck\o/
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After you ride around a bit and settle down we have to address the fuel issue.
So get your Clymer and open it to the fuel section and read the first part about how the carb works and how to adjust your Idle.
Don't forget to turn off your fuel when your done so we don't flood the engine or the garage with fuel.
When your ready we will remove the carb and see about the needle seat and if we can remedy the leaking valve.
Tuck\o/
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WE HAVE LIFTOFF! I found the clamp buried in the box and I adjusted the freeplay. I have to head to the doctors right now but when I get back around 4 I have to adjust the gold idle screw...the bike wouldnt kick start so i second gear dropped it (yes I know its not good but...) and it started but was bogging like crazy and once i stopped giving gas it shut right off....man that powerband is AWESOME! THanks everyone
Chris
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WE HAVE LIFTOFF! I found the clamp buried in the box and I adjusted the freeplay. I have to head to the doctors right now but when I get back around 4 I have to adjust the gold idle screw...the bike wouldnt kick start so i second gear dropped it (yes I know its not good but...) and it started but was bogging like crazy and once i stopped giving gas it shut right off....man that powerband is AWESOME! THanks everyone
Chris
Sounds float needle seat related to me...
I when having carbs shipped back and forth (having old amal carbs bored and sleeved for the worn slides) have had an issue before of a little piece of packing penuts getting to places they shouldnt be...
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Dont tell me you just started ripping on it without breaking it in?!. or did you even replace the piston?
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I Hate Those peanuts thats why I shipped them BACK! :lol:
The carb was sent separately but I'll remember that. We also need to get on the BREAK IN procedure
Tabbed in that Clymer.
This is an excellent video of what's going on in your carb. watch the fuel needle and slide.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_7d1FxZD8U&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
Let me know when your ready to get back to work!
T\o/
I know, I know... don't stress :-o
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Update: I opened the carb with Tuck on the phone guiding me through it and we put the needle clip on the top (1st slot). Then it was still doing the same thing so I gotthe bike running and I kept revving it and I turned the idle switch alot clockwise and it stayed on but still has a little problems in the beginning of throttle. So thats for tomorrow!
Chris
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Update: I opened the carb with Tuck on the phone guiding me through it and we put the needle clip on the top (1st slot). Then it was still doing the same thing so I gotthe bike running and I kept revving it and I turned the idle switch alot clockwise and it stayed on but still has a little problems in the beginning of throttle. So thats for tomorrow!
Chris
EEEEEk!
fuel level check before all that
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Ding Ding Ding!! That's right Bob! Fuel level checked before all that :-D
Well at the Re-build site...
EEEEEk!
:lol:
Now the translation,
After we got the leaking needle jet resolved, (so far so Good) we tried to get the bike to Idle.
CM cannot seem to kick start the bike, However he can bump start it.
After using the throttle to keep the engine running and turning in the idle screw, We are able to keep the bike running.
Apparently there is an off idle stumble.
The last time we looked at the plug (BR8) it was "Dark on the tip and wet on the outside" .
To be continued...
Tuck\o/
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Ding Ding Ding!! That's right Bob! Fuel level checked before all that :-D
Well at the Re-build site...
EEEEEk!
:lol:
Now the translation,
After we got the leaking needle jet resolved, (so far so Good) we tried to get the bike to Idle.
CM cannot seem to kick start the bike, However he can bump start it.
After using the throttle to keep the engine running and turning in the idle screw, We are able to keep the bike running.
Apparently there is an off idle stumble.
The last time we looked at the plug (BR8) it was "Dark on the tip and wet on the outside" .
To be continued...
Tuck\o/
10-4 Tuck... just checking and Filling in the Possible Holes I see..
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No Worries!
I'm open to anything, there is no A.S. on this carb.
Check back for what we come up with tommorrow. Tuning :-) should start about 8;am pacific.
I wish I had that "Go to Meeting" software, the one where you can connect several computers
and interact in real time....That would make things Much easier!
Hey! I got It
"Motorrad's Online Virtual Speed Shop"
Buy the software to have meetings and $9.95 a month to "hang out"
so lets see 9.95 x 1000 = $9950.00 per month x 12mos. = $119,400.00 per annum :-o
Hey Bro, great talkin' to ya! I have to see a man about some software! :lol:
Tuck\o/
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Or you could just set up a meeting on Skype! :-D Makes things a lot easier.
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Or you could just set up a meeting on Skype! :-D Makes things a lot easier.
that would work, but can you do a 3 way conversation? :?
P.s i must say that CM's bike is MINT , have you replaced plastics or painted the frame?
for a bike that is 11 yrs old it looks like it is brand new off the dealer floor :-o
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Oh yes you can have multiple people in there at the same time.
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Or yall can use the chatroom on my website :)
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Actually, I polished the rims but the spokes have a ton of corrosion. The rear fender is new and the radiator guard is new. The frame needs touch up paint but I cant find kawasaki touch up paint anywhere for cheap and not $40. Tuck and me have been talking and moving the needle clip up and down and we went to 4 but it was better at 3 so its at 3 now. We got it to idle but it has a throttle problem. Tuck knows the name of it. We think its the pilot jet.
Chris
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Yes we seem to have run out of tuning options.
I could try manipulate the fuel level, but the right thing to do is get a larger pilot.
We have, from what I gather is a "hanging idle". that would tell me we need more fuel.
When we drop the clip further (enriching the mix) the bike becomes harder to start, and runs worse...
So I guess if CM can swing it it's time for some brass..I would start with the next size up see how she reacts
Tuck\o/
I have used these guys before with no problems
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_dirt/kawasaki_060_KX60.htm
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My ktm has a similar problem too so both my bikes I think I should just take to a shop or something and get the carbs tuned...Thats all both of them need just a cheap tuneup for the carbs...
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Yes we seem to have run out of tuning options.
I could try manipulate the fuel level, but the right thing to do is get a larger pilot.
We have, from what I gather is a "hanging idle". that would tell me we need more fuel.
When we drop the clip further (enriching the mix) the bike becomes harder to start, and runs worse...
So I guess if CM can swing it it's time for some brass..I would start with the next size up see how she reacts
Tuck\o/
I have used these guys before with no problems
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_dirt/kawasaki_060_KX60.htm
bookmarked! was looking for somewhere to buy individual jets. thanks
My ktm has a similar problem too so both my bikes I think I should just take to a shop or something and get the carbs tuned...Thats all both of them need just a cheap tuneup for the carbs...
you should really learn at some point, tuning is weather dependent.... but then again i tend to run my bike all year round
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But I dont want to just buy a 6 dollar jet then pay for 8 dollar shipping too for something that might not work...Also when I was sleeping the other day I thought about if someone made clear metal dirt bike casing and special light clear oil, gas, and antifreeze! Just enough so you can see the fluids but still see the crank and everything inside! Just givin some ideas!
Chris
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Mi birthday is todayyyy!
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Happy Birthday!! 8-)
hopefully you get some money to buy something sweet for your bike :-o
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:lol: Well Happy Birthday CM! Enjoy the rest of your Summer.
Tuck\o/
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Thanks guys. And what would i need to buy lol?
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Thanks guys. And what would i need to buy lol?
anything. for my birthday i was lucky enough to get enough money to buy a clutch basket 8-)
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Happy B-Day! :-D
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Happy Birthday a day late, how`s your 60 runnin dude?
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Im absolutely LOVIN the 60 and it starts first kick. Other than the idle lag weirdness its fine...im really trying to think of what it needs for the carb to be fixed.
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you should make a riding video 8-)
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i wish but not good at cameras lol! funny story that happened today...ok so i was gonna go on a ride and pin the bike in 6th, jump the bike, etc. and when I get back from the ride i go put the bike on the kicktand in the garage and go to turn the gas off...guess what happens next...the petcock is gone! The two screws werent tightened all the way cause then it is really difficult to turn the switch so yeah its gone so i needa buy that on ebay lol! I turned the gas off afterwards by putting a flathead in the plastic switch part. THIS BIKE IS SO FAST THAT IT OPENS MY MOUTH WHEN I RIDE AND MAKES ME TEAR THEN THE TEAR GOES IN MY HAIR CAUSE IT MOVES SIDEWAYS HAHA. lovin the bike
Chris
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its the exact same as taking a picture but you have to make sure its on camera mode and just upload the vid to photobucket or youtube.
that does suck that the petcock is gone , if it fell off , wasnt there gas pissing all over the place?
ya know what they say huh? s*** happens LOL but its true..
on a side note, this topic has more replys than any other topic on the entire kxriders fourm :-o :-o
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Yeah i know but no one is there to film lol.
no it just drips a little and i cant find the peices...The whole 1993 petcock on ebay is 30 bucks...
and does it really?
Also guys good news...this guy might buy my ktm tomorrow cause its just so small for me and i want a quad...he might buy it for 900! then this girl is selling a mint 2001 yamaha blaster for 900! I wish I had the money to buy a kwasaki quad.
CHris
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:-o
Young man you better get a pair of goggles, a rock in your eye at speed is not good!
(Tinted lenses ) so you can see where the heck you are going (in bright sun!)
Gloves so you don't end up picking gravel out of your hands, and a good chest protector.
There are some nasty gouges in my boys chest protectors that would have been their back and chest.
Tuck\o/
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Exactly what I was thinking, Tuck. Well put.
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Also the bike use to have much more of a hit on the powerband and more power...Is it cause the stator needs to be adjusted how itwas on those little lines by the magneto? Thanks.
Chris
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Also some pics.
looks like a happy bike in the field.
nice engine, tucks work. thanks again.
Do those rims look 11 years old?!??! I think not! lol mint condish
And my brother got a old beat up coke machine that didnt work and he fixed it up and now when Im thirsty workin on the kx I can always get a coke and many other flavors! haha
Also tomorrow I am probably selling my ktm for 900ish to buy another monster! Probably a 2001 yamaha blaster...I was thinking about a kx100 or kx80 but kx80 would be a tiny bigger and kx100's I cant find anywhere and anyways I wanna try a quad...SO the blaster is 900...Anyone here try one out before? I heard that the brakes go fast...but overall power or anything?
Thanks guys.
Chris
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My only concerns with the quads and my boys was the weight.
I didn't think the boys would be able to get the quad off themselves if it fell on them. The other thing was the area we live has lots of hills. I was afraid of the quad falling/following them down a hill and not being able to get the bike off of themselves. I know lots of guys who have quads and their kids ride and love'em.
I may be forced to ride one if the doc says my new suspension won't stand up to a dirtbike.
I really wish you would get some good safety equipment before you really get hurt.
There are lots of guys here who can attest they might not be here today if it weren't for their gear.
Read some on jetting, then you can verify or manipulate the timing, that's what's holding back your kx.
Take Care Budddy,
Tuck\o/
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get yourself a full body back/chest/arm all in one thingy.and make sure you lids in good shape.if your wearing them, chances are you may never need them.but you can guarantee if you arent wearing them you will end up wishing you were.I got knocked off a mountain bike at 45 mph once,on tarmac, without even a t shirt.the resulting half inch thick scab over bits of gravel and dirt was not pretty, and tickled like hell.and that was without petrol propulsion.safety first.K.
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bought ktm for 350 last week and sol today for 850! time to get a quad! yamaha blaster!
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bought ktm for 350 last week and sol today for 850! time to get a quad! yamaha blaster!
WOW thats awesome 8-)
B.T.W those rims look brand new for being 11 yo , i wish my rims were that shiny. my rims are twice as old as your rims so thats why they are not shiny
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Yeah the rims are the best part of my bike next to the engine as in looks...Since I have so much invested in this bike I might as well make it perfect and try to buy kawasaki lime green and the silver touch up paint cause my bike definetely needs touch up paint. ALso my neighbor said he use to have a yamaha blaster and he loved it but he said to get sunoco and put it at 53 octane? what in the world does that mean haha and hes also like you gotta jet it...
CHris
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ya same here, i have thousands into my bike and i am going further to make it 110% perfect , i will get a new rear fender, mudlfap , gas tank, front fender, seat, powder coat frame and swing arm, restore the lower fork legs , Apply the correct 1989 uni trak decals to the swingarm , oem shifter , take the wheels apart and polish the rims and spokes, and finally a new sprocket cover.
yes i know this will be quite expensive, but the end result will be phenomenal :-o :-o :-o :-o :-o
and its NOT going to make the bike faster or anything like that.
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Dang! lots of money!! I just need work on the two side fender white stickers and the swingarm paint and the frame paint...then the oxidation on the spokes..are the spokes suppose to be chrome?...after all that my bike will be near perfect...also there is always after a ride a big splatter of oil or something on the shifter pedal and on the frame by that spot...I think the chain is just throwing sludge over there i guess?
Chris
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just took off the old ugly chain and bought a brand new pre stretched gold chain for the kx! it was 25 bucks and will make the bike look much better...do I have to lubricate the chain...I hate when I touch the chain and I get a ton of grease on my hand...I dont think it will need lubrication if the links move smoothly...am I correct? I want the chain to look new without any grease so it looks clean.
Chris
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change of plans...I think im gonna go with another bike instead of a quad...either a rm yz or kx...im thinking 125 ish...i just dont know if quad or dirt bike
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125 is a full size bike, but if you think you can touch the ground give her
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change of plans...I think im gonna go with another bike instead of a quad...either a rm yz or kx...im thinking 125 ish...i just dont know if quad or dirt bike
Why not use the money to buy gas, and riding gear...... and go ride your KX.....
I have several friends that have to have EVERY single shiny part for their bikes... but when it comes time to go ride, they first dont have enough money to go... and second if they do, are wearing an old Tshirt, and a 10yr old helmet....
But their bike has every Hop Up, Dirtbike Magazine told them they needed....
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I decided on a very nice 2005 yz85. It has a mad brothers suspension on it and the guy said that suspension is 2000 new and it has renthal bars, renthal pegs and other upgrades. all new fenders and its 1200 but I got them down to 1000. I will be picking it up saturday or sunday of next week! I bet you I will still enjoy my kx much more! Tuck, how are you doing on the surgery? feelin better? I still gotta get you a gift.
Chris
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Where are you getting all this money at your age?!
full KX motor rebuild... (new crank etc)...
a KTM,
Now a YZ?!
When I was your age, I was building all my bikes out of Milk crates, and from the sides of dumpsters,
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haha! Mo rad...I find garbage off the streets and turn it into money and sell stuff...I bought the ktm for 350 and sold for 850 and all that is going to the yz plus 150 of my car money...I know I shouldnt dip into that buuut...yeah now I will enjoy both of these bikes and probably not sell either ever...KX is definetely going to my kids when I have them ofcourse haha and Its gonna stay in the family for years to come hopefully :p I will tell my kids all about mo rad and tuck and 1989 kawasaki and every one! haha
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Hey Chris,
I'm getting around pretty good, but still need crutches. Old guys heal slow so it will be a while :lol:..Thanks for askin',
You don't owe me anything Buddy. Forget it. Plenty of folks help or helped me out. We are all in this together!
Now back on the safety rant!
Get yourself a good Helmet, Goggles, Gloves,Chest Protector and Boots. I would like to see you get a leat brace and
A good set of freestyle riding pants or mx pants with pads. That's gonna set you back a pretty penny, but when you go down hard its worth its weight in gold! Actually, that neck brace could save your life!
You get the 60 jetted and its gonna be fast, the 85 is gonna be faster.... get some gear!!!
Put back some of that money your making for a rainy day or a deal that comes along that you can't pass up. You don't have to stockpile your whole bankroll, just 10% You get 100 put 10 in savings. You will not believe how much you can put away by the time you graduate H.S. 8-) Then you will be able to take the whole summer off before College and do whatever the heck you want while your friends have to work.
Any way,
Take Care,
and stay out of trouble school probly starts in two weeks or so,
Tuck\o/
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At your age you`re all ready plannin ta have kids, slow down
:wink:
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Im glad to hear that Tuck. I will look into getting safety gear after I get these bikes situated....The weird thing is the guy that has the 85 says he rides the bike pretty hard and the guy that he bought it from always ran 50:1 in it so thats what he does...And he called it droll but the oil spooge on the exhaust he said drips out...and he said it smokes a lot...so 2 rich symptoms and 1 lean symptom? But he said its normal for the 85's to not care what the ratio is....And Im like to him why didnt you change the ratio and jet it...he says its a pain to jet the bike...I tell him Im looking forward to two jettings now! haha What should I do about the kx jetting....It starts first kick no problem without the choke...I never use the choke...but it starts then you give it a rev and it has 1 heavy bog then you try again and it catches on to the right sound of how its supposed to run...Thanks guys
Chris
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On the subject of not wearing goggles, I just broke the window of my truck from roost (wasnt smart of me riding that close), imagine that in the eye!
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Just got the YZ today! Man that things big for a 85...it has renthal grips renthal handlebars, uni filter, $2000 mbr suspension, and more. That thing is fast! I can barely hold on! It bogs just like my kx so looks like im doing 2 jettings now haha. The guy told me this happens but the bike is being ran 50:1 and after you get off the bike after 5 mins of riding there is a line of oil down the pipe that came out. Im guessing jetting also...heres some pics
Chris
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Very Cool Chris,
I'm Jealous! Your bikes look great!
Get a manual for 85. (You'll need it to keep the maintenance.) The principals for both bikes will be the same but there will be some specs that differ.
At this point I would say it's probably better to have some spooge and keep cleaning it up than burn up the engines.
The Real answer is to learn how the carb works and jet the bikes correctly. You wouldn't have to take them to a shop and save yourself several hundred dollars. I don't know how long you will be able to ride before the packing in the silencers get plugged up or oil soaked. But the silencer packing is cheaper than a piston and rings also.
Please Get a Helmet,Goggles,Chest Protector, Gloves and Boots.
You don't have to buy new gear, there are lots of good deals on used gear for younger riders as the grow out of it so quickly. Craigs List, Ebay, Local Paper, whatever.
I'm gonna keep hounding you 'till I see some pictures!
Now about trying to hang on...
The next time you take the bikes out, try to squeeze the bike with your legs to "Hold On". Heck you can practice in the garage. I know that sounds weird, and it will be awkward at first, however gripping the bike with your legs leaves your hands and arms free to control the bike.
You won't have a tendency to open the throttle while just trying to hang on.
You know,
Like when the bike hits the powerband and you are trying to let off the throttle, only you are hanging on for dear life and the throttle just keeps opening and you can't let go!
Yea...Been there done that...
There might even be some riding schools around you somewhere, and if not there are some excellent instructional riding video's. (used ones are just as good as new!)
And not the one where the guys are jumping ravines or doing backflips!
Be Careful & Take Care,
Tuck\o/
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Yeah it looks great...I have to find the original decals the the bike use to have cause it looks so plain. THen I have to buy an actualy kickstand...I cant find a stand cheaper than $100!! So your saying the bogging on both bikes is normal? ANd ill try that leg strategy tomorrow...TOmorrow im teaching my two friends how toclutch! :p.....I will look into gear after Im done spending more and more money on these bikes! haha Anywhere where I can get decals and kickstand cheap? really need the stand cause the stand it has now im afraid it will fall any moment cause it barely holds it up...thanks
CHris
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The bog is not normal, and neither is the spooge (oil dripping off the pipe or silencer) the bikes need to be jetted for your altitude and temperature. This will vary with the seasons, spring, summer, fall.
Once you get to know what the bike needs, you will probably only need to change the jetting two or three times a year. Depending on how fast the weather changes and at what temperature/elevation you ride. But you get faster and it's just part of owning a bike, you can consider it maintenance I suppose.
There is lot's of info available for you to read,I don't think I can explain it any better than it is in your clymer in the fuel section.
Read through it and let me know what you don't understand and I'm sure myself and the guys can help.
If you really need me to write up what your carb does and how it works I suppose I could try, but its all in there
and I think you can understand what is written. And There is always You-tube.
As far as the kickstand or stand goes, there are more options other than the $100.00 jobbers.
Next time your out and about look for some milk crates. Turn it upside down and I think your 85 should sit on it with the rear wheel off the ground so you can service it and she won't tip over.
The other alternative is to build a stand out of some 2x4's and a small piece of plywood for the top.
You could get fancy and put some wheels on the bottom so you can roll it around the garage.
There may also be some available on e-bay or craigs list.
The kickstands you can buy for the 85 are probably gonna cost about $100.00 the one style clamps on the swing arm and usually runs about $75.00 so when you add shipping and what not it ends up being $100.00
Pro moto billet might have a nice one but you'll be looking at $125.00
The decals are probably $65. to $125 a set also... :|
Tuck\o/
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Yeah cause the bog on both bikes is the kind where you give it a full throttle rev in neutral and it just gives one BIG bog. Oh and while trying to get up hills with my kx it dies out and bogs...And I have a ton of milk crates and its just not working...I want to have a kickstand so I could stand it up in the field and wherever I am...And I only found a moose racing clamp on one on ebay for 100 bucks! I want the bolt on one for cheaper! haha any places I can buy the stand and decals for cheap? Thanks
Chris
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while trying to get up hills with my kx it dies out and bogs..
Sorry Chris, until the carb gets tuned I don't know how I can help.
Work Stands
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=mini+dirtbike+stand&_sacat=See-All-Categories
This is the cheapest I found on a new sidestand:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/vehicleSelectProd.do?prevVehicleType=2&prevMake=8&prevModel=535&keyword=yz85+kickstand&vehicleTypeId=2&make=8&model=535&applyFilter=Change+Vehicle&year=2005&navTitle=Dirt+Bike+Parts&navType=type&webCatId=19&webTypeId=172&prodFamilyId=24439&stockId=&listingId=&uri=%2FproductDetail.do
Tuck\o/
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Update: I just ordered the a whole bike graphics kit for 100 bucks...there goes more money that I have to gain back....Now I have to find a kick stand that doesnt clamp on the swingarm. I want one that bolts on. Then I gotta get the jetting fixed on both bikes. Thanks guys
Chris
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Make sure you have a look at some video's on how to install those graphics.
There are a few different ways to do it, and you don't get a second chance!
Tuck\o/
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Ohh good idea. Ill go research how now haha. Also I asked a guy in another town how much it would be to jet both my bikes and hes like 100 per bike....and I have to drive them up there like an hour and half way. FORGET THAT! I gotta find a place close to me that will do it cheaper. The guy inanother town also said the yz might be more expensive cause he would probably have to repack the silencer cause its filled with oil he said...EH ill do my research. Thanks.
CHris
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I was afraid it was about $100 per bike, and they will want the air filters clean, fresh fuel, fresh silencer pack.
You can do it Chris. Then you can charge $50 and make back your money on your friends bikes! 8-)
Well it looks like your YZ has a keihin carb. This is where I usually get individual jets if I need them, they have a flat rate of $7.95 for shipping
Here's a link for the YZ
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_dirt/yamaha_085_YZ85_2002-2011.htm
and here's the KX
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_dirt/kawasaki_060_KX60.htm
It's looking like you will be dialing your bikes in. It won't be that bad.
You already know how to move the clip on the needle.
The only other thing you will have to do is change the pilot and main. And you already packed the silencer on the KX , same deal on your YZ!
Let me know when you are ready to tackle it.
Tuck\o/
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Yeah but the thing is I cant deal with rivets on the silencer on the yz...and the yz carb is really complicating and it has screws on top and its weird...and I dont want to mess anything up...also the 50:1 amsoil racing oil premix is empty...and a new one is 17 bucks so Im without riding the yz until I jet it and get more premix...THanks
CHris
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Remember, make one change and check results.
DO NOT make more than one change without checking your progress
( or lack of ) , your doal here should be to figure out what one change can do.
For example: if you repack your yz silencer - your jetting could be spot on.
Do all the simple stuff, clean filter, fresh fuel at the correct ratio,
first before you deside which way to go, if at all, with the jetting.
You have a great coach who is willing and able to help.
Good luck young man.
Lookin forward to your results.
Out
Crazy :-D
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well could i just buy 32:1 premix for the yz and put that in without changing anything? will that work?
CHris
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Read this: Two-Cycle psycho
http://www.maximausa.com/lube-news/summer01.php (http://www.maximausa.com/lube-news/summer01.php)
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Hey tuck,
I read the whole article and I tried fooling with the air screw and it seems that the air screw does nothing to how the bike is running...and it was running at a standstill for a minute and a ton of drool already there..
Chris
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Hey Chris,
The right side of the picture goes to your airbox and the left side of the carb goes to the engine.
Look at the arrow/line for the air screw (down and to the right), follow the path of the air as it mixes with the fuel of the pilot.
This is the pilot circuit showing the air screw allowing more air (or leaning out) the fixed amount of fuel introduced by the pilot jet. (don't be misled by the pic, the pilot and Air Screw are always open regardless of the needle and slide position)
(The top right inset in the pic is looking down at the air screw)
(http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/images/Smaller_PWK_highlow_speed_animation.gif)
Check this link out for the whole article, I know it may be long and boring. read a little at a time and come back and Finnish later. but it does a good job of explaining the whole nine yards :
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html (http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html)
Get yourself a notebook or binder, it doesn't have to be fancy.
We need to record what changes we make and how the bike ran.
You asked earlier if you can run 32:1 in both bikes.
Yes, we can jet both bikes to run with 32:1
That way you only have one fuel can, but I would strongly suggest a good pre-mix oil, preferably synthetic.
If you want to tackle this, which bike do you want to work on first?
If you want to start with the YZ, you will need to remove the carb and write down the Numbers of the jets and what clip position the needle is, in your notebook.
If you want to tackle the KX we will need to get the next size smaller pilot.
Let me know what you want to do.
Tuck \o/
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That picture makes me understand a little more. I think I want to start with the kx since it is probably more simple and we already know all about it. So if I buy a bigger or smaller pilot jet this will fix the problem of all the power loss and bog? Let me know what I have to buy from that jetsrus site and ill go ahead. Also do they combine shipping costs? cause 7 bucks is a lot of money to ship a jet so Im thinking if I buy the yz and kx jets altogether it will be cheaper? Let me know. Im glad your guiding me through this. Thanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
Yes, they will combine the shipping.
If I remember when you were working with the carb on the KX, the bike ran better when went from two to three on the clip, and there is a bog off Idle until the engine picks up. that sounds like you need more fuel. since there is no air screw to help fine tune that pilot circuit, I say get the next size larger pilot.
Before you do anything with the YZ.
Lets see if the pilot is anywhere close. Warm the bike up and pull it in to where you work on it.
Shut it off and we are going to re-set your air screw.
Turn your Air screw in until it gently seats.
The end of the air screw is easily messed up so you have to be careful.
Now you need to turn it out (counterclockwise) 1 1/2 turns.
Find a spot on your carb or make a mark so you can count in 1/2 turns of the screw.
(watch the flat of the screwdriver)
Go ahead and start the bike and take a spin. how does the engine re-act better or worse ?
If you don't notice any difference, shut the bike off and turn the air screw in, a half turn (this will richen the mixture by cutting off some of the air mixing in the pilot circuit)
start the bike and take another spin. Better, worse or still no difference?
No difference? Turn the air screw in another 1/2 turn. Start the bike and take another spin.
There is only a half turn left in the air screw. if you didn't feel any difference in the performance,
we start over.
This time after gently seating the airscrew closed, we will open the air screw 2 full turns from gently seated. we are going to lean the pilot and see if we have an improvement.
Take the bike for a spin. Better worse or no difference?
Bring her in and shut down the bike.
turn your air screw an additional 1/2 out (leaning out the pilot circuit some more)
Take the bike for another spin Better Worse or no Difference
Take another 1/2 turn out (continuing to lean out the pilot circuit)
You should see some difference at three turns out.
It probably takes longer to read all this than it will to test your airscrew/pilot.
You will know if the engine picks up any better or not by the time you hit the end of the driveway!
Report back with what you find and we can go from there.
If you want you can give me a ring tommorrow while you are testing.
Tuck\o/
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Ok good to hear that they combine shipping. Im pretty sure my kx has a 30 pilot jet so I would go 32.5? or 35? or am i thinking the main jet? Ill check in the manual tomorrow. With the yz, I will try what you said to do. When you say gently seat the air screw, do you mean to screw it all the way in? THanks
CHris
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Yep You got it.
the end of the screw is pointed. It fits in a tapered seat. If you crank down on it it could ruin the carb body as it is not repairable, or mushroom the end of the screw (remember its brass)
You will be fine, you can give me a ring after 8am my time.
Tuck\o/
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Ok so I gently screw it in all the way...And what would I go on the kx? 32.5 or 35? and is it the main jet or pilot?
CHris
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Chris,
Yes you will Gently seat the Air Screw in on the YZ. and then back it out 1 1/2 turns (to start testing above post).
We are going to dial in the pilot first, just like the write up suggested.
Remember the pilot circuit will always be allowing fuel and air through the carb, whether you have the choke on or off, the throttle is closed or wide open, the pilot circuit is always allowing air/fuel in the engine.
Have a look again at the piccy. The pilot jet is blue. Do you see where the opening is on mouth of the carb?
The air (green bubbles below the red air flow arrow) entering the pilot circuit is regulated by the air screw, as the air passes through a small passageway in the carb body it mixes with fuel from the pilot jet and continues through the carb through a small hole just downstream of the slide valve and enters the engine.
(http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/images/Smaller_PWK_highlow_speed_animation.gif)
I'm pretty sure the next larger Pilot for the KX is the 32.5
There are no guarantees this will be the correct one, I'm sorry but this is trial and error.
Just like when you moved the clip on the needle, we won't know until we try it.
It's up to you if you want to go to the 35 and jump up two sizes or not.
I'm Sorry Buddy but Without actually being there to see and hear what's going on I just have to make a best guess.
I can tell you if your running rich and blubbery or lean and popping, if you are short shifting or over-revving just like most of the other guys, but we're not there.
It might take a little time for you to recognize what the bike is doing or needs. But hang in there, we'll get it.
I'll tell you what, I will buy any of the jets you order and can't use. If you get the 32.5 and we end up getting a smaller one or larger one I'll buy the ones you don't need. Same goes for the Mains if we need those.
You can't beat that. You just have to get them so we can see if they work. The only other option is if I buy the jets,
have them shipped to you and then you ship me the ones you don't need.
Let me know what you want to do.
Tuck\o/
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Tuck,
I will print out what you wrote on your post about the yz and how many turns and stuff. Then Ill try it and let you know what happens. Im pretty sure this is normal but the choke on my yz you have to hold up and it doesnt stay up. I think it would be easier and quicker if you just ship me the jets for the kx then I try them and I use the one that works and pay you for that one and ship the rest back. Also one more thing i was wondering. When you start my bikes by just rolling into second gear does it harm the bike? Also does shifting without the clutch harm it too? Heading back out to the garage now and tryin the yz air screw adjustments. Later today both my gold chains for my yz and kx are coming so I have to put those on too. THanks
CHris
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:lol:
it would be easier and quicker if you just ship me the jets
How did I know you were gonna go for that! :-D
Oky Doke, we have a #138 main and #45 pilot in the YZ
and a #200 main and #30 pilot in the Kx
After some testing, Chris found the bike responded favorably the further Out the Air Screw was turned.
What is happening is by allowing more air in the pilot circuit (leaning it out) the bike runs better, this tells us we need a smaller pilot jet as the current one is too rich.
Roll starting isn't really too bad, as long as you are using the clutch.
But kick starting should be easier than pushing, jumping on and dropping the bike in gear and popping the clutch.
Shifting without the clutch is a tricky subject. I would not recommend it at your stage in the game.
If you are pushing the bike down the drive, jumping on and stabbing the shifter in 2nd without the clutch to get it started, :-o That's REALLY bad for the tranny...
Tuck\o/
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How do you use the clutch to roll start? I remember when I tried using the clutch to roll start it didnt work...when I roll start I jump on the bike and push forward a little then kick 2nd gaer and both bikes start right up...I most of the time kick start though...How do you use the clutch for rolling it?
And I find shifting without the clutch really easy for me...
Heres some pics of the yz carb:
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:-o
And I find shifting without the clutch really easy for me...
I think if you understood what happens in the transmission when you shift gears you wouldn't shift without the clutch anymore..
To push start the bike using the clutch, put it in neutral, run a bit to get started down the drive, jump on and grab the clutch, click the shifter up in second or third and let out the clutch. The only difference between your way and mine,
is that by using the clutch to put the bike in gear its easier on the transmission.
The wear and tear on the clutch is the same, but the clutch is much cheaper to replace than the gears are.
The Carb
Put some rags on the jaws of the vice it won't scratch the carb.
If you turn the carb 90 deg to the right (clockwise), you should be able to hold it in the vice on the sides of the body, the mouth of the carb (large bell end) outside of the jaws. I suppose it will be O.K. the way you are holding it, as long as the vice isn't too tight. I just never tried it like that.
Oh yea, I copied this from the Jets-R-Us site. I usually receive them in three days...
"Thank you for your payment! NORMAL TRANSIT TIME IS 5 to 7 BUSINESS DAYS
Your transaction has been completed, and a receipt for your purchase has been emailed to you."
The jets are on the way...
T\o/
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Yeah, I figured.
Ok thanks for letting me know the right way.
I knew somebody would say something about that about not having rags! haha I just placed it there to get the screws out. For now until the jets get here I put a zip lock bag over the slide hanging off the bike and the car bin a zip lock. What jets did you order? And theyre on their way to your house correct? Im so anxious to get the kx carb off now but then I wont have anything to ride for 2 weeks! haha but no hurry! Thanks
Chris
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Chris,
Did you read what I wrote to you?
Remember, change one thing at a time.
I`ve stood in the shoes you are in and have done more damage than good.
If you make a change, and there is not an improvment-
you can go back and look someplace else.
Just tryin ta help.
Out
Crazy ol Bastard :evil:
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Hey Chris,
I wish I had found this a few days ago, it would have given you better Idea of what you were in for.
http://forums.dirtrider.com/70/6729958/dirt-bike-repair-maintenance/jetting-a-2-stroke-carb-keihin-pwk/index.html
Does it appear that you could change your pilot from the opening made by the 17mm drainbolt (like in the pic)?
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh170/skhasky/th_mainandpilot.jpg)
Rats! You didn't have to remove the carb if that's the case, Sorry Bud.
And why would you have to wait two weeks to ride? Your jets should be there in two or three days...
Tuck\o/
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Yes, I read what you wrote. I have been doing one thing at a time then seeing the effect. Thanks for the advice.
Hey Tuck. It is fine. I wanted to take the whole carb off to see how it comes off and to clean it...Today I put the carb back on temporarily until the jets come.
I thought the jets would take a week to get to your house then 4 days to get to my house then a day to install and do trial and error then I guess I can use the kx premix too. The jets that you ordered are for 32:1 right? THanks guys.
Chris
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that a boy Chris, take your time.
Make a jet swap and read your plug.
I`m sure you have seen the " how to read your plug "
in here.
If not let us know and we can hook ya up with a link.
Take it easy,
out
Crazy.
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Yeah theres a whole chart in my clymer of all the different kinds of plug wear. Im thinking since I love kx's and theres such a GREAT site all about kx's I wish they made a quiet kx...After these two loud bikes my next bike needs to be quiet! Is there a kx out there or any mods that make it REALLY quiet? I want to own a lot of dirt bikes when im older and work on them a lot cause I really enjoy it. Also my yz rear brake doesnt work...Theres brake fluid in it...When you hit it with a hammer down it stays down and locks the back wheel but then you hammer the rear brake lever back up it releases...Any suggestions on a next bike and the rear brake would be appreciated. Thanks.
CHris
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:-o When you hit it with a hammer down it stays down and locks the back wheel :?
I really hope your just sayin' that to see our reaction...
Take a pic of the rear brake from the rear, so we can see the caliper and the brake pad.
Then have a look at the point where the brake lever attaches to the clevis or where the brake adjuster is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y1wv8Uuezw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUAlmm_zf7w&feature=related
Remember you have motocross bikes. They can be setup to be ridden for recreation or trail riding.
After you get your current bikes sorted out you can start looking for a good trailbike, that might be a bit quieter.
take a flashlight and have a look in the silencer of your YZ. I'm thinking it probably has never been re-packed.
A good quality packing materiel may help quiet her down a bit, but it's still a race bike. A good spark arrester/silencer
rated for offroad would help quiet things down.
But before we get off track, you should have both brakes working properly. Let's sort out the brake while you're waiting for parts.
Tuck\o/
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Well you know what I mean...the rear brake foot lever is really really ahrd to push down so you have to hit it with a hammer and it stays down and slows the back wheel so you cant push it forward...its not the brake pads...
Yeah I wouldnt worry about my next bike yet! Probably for christmas is my next bike and I always have to pay more than half with the money I get for my birthdays and christmas haha
A little later I will take a flashlight and have a look in there. The yz isnt that loud actually...KX is MUCH MUCH louder! But Im sure once this jetting is sorted im gonna have to send it to someone to repack it cause
1. its probably filled with a ton of oil
2. I cant do it cause its rivets..
3. It has probably never been repacked
I dont know what to do about the rear brake...never worked with brakes except the brake levers haha! THanks guys
Chris
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The rear brake usually has a pivot point that rarely gets serviced. Check that for how freely it moves.
You will have to remove the return spring and the clevis that pushes the plunger on the master cyl. to get the brake pedal assembly off. If the brakes are hanging up here it will be alot easier to fix than if the rear master cyl. is messed up. I'm thinking the KX and the YZ brake assemblies look similar.
Have a look at the clymer in the rear brake section. then go over to the YZ and see if you can Isolate the problem.
You need that back brake!
Oh yea, the I got an e-mail from Jets-R-Us.. Your Items have been shipped!
Tuck\o/
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The kx and yz brakes look NOTHING alike! lol kx is drum and yz is disk. Ill have to look some info up later
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I think what Tuck is suggesting is remove the pin that moves the arm to the rear brake master cylinder.
Just check the movement of the peddle to start.
It could need to be cleaned up and serviced.
I have another idea but start there.
Good luck Chris
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Im already used to taking the carb on and off the yz so my friends came over and I was bored so I took it off and taught one of them how it works . And do any of you have a video of what you are trying to get across? cause I still dont understand...The guy that I bought the yz from contacted me today asking how I like the bike. I told him how the rear brake doesnt work and he said when he had it he remembers it working...so maybe the fluid...Thanks
Chris
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If you have any Idea's Crazy Please throw it out there.
Yes That's what I was trying to get to at Thanks.
There is only one moving part to the rear brake pedal, and the plunger for the master cyl.
I can understand what would make the pedal so hard to push down, but what would cause the pedal to "Stay down" and not return....
It is a pretty serious problem to have a rear brake that doesn't work properly on a bike that will do 45mph or better.
Tuck\o/
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Well no hurry on the rear brake cause believe it or not but even when I pin my kx I always use the front brake. I would like to fix it but theres no hurry. More focused on the jetting. If any of you have a video to show what I have to do I would get it cause Im not use to these kind of brakes and I never work on brakes. A video would be good. It will do much more than 45! My kx will do more than 45 without the power it had before since it wasnt jetted! Let me know guys! Thanks
Chris
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not read all of this brake thing, but after cleaning and greasing lever and pivot,and clevis,maybe knackered pad pins, divotted, bent(ooh matron) or ungreased????
you need functioning back brake to drop the front wheel if she goes 'hard arise' on ya as shutting throttle is less effective on a 2 stroke (negligible engine braking)and if your north of the balance point the back brake is your only friend.K.
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Ok guys. I went ointo the garage and looked at the rear brake. I took the return spring off. Then I unbolted the plunger cylinder thing off ofthe frame. Then I disconnected the plunger from the pedal and the plunger moves perfect! The issue is that the rear brake pedal part that goes into the frame and is held by that brad clip is not moving. I tried hammering out the brake pedal from the frame but its not coming out..So now we know the cylinder and plunger is good. But the pedal is not moving in the frame. I tried wd40 and hammering it out and it just wont come out. Ill try more...Thanks
Chris
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good ta hear its the peddle, not the hydro circut buggered up.
try ta let it soak and then move it up n down a while to free it up.
soak it good with wd40 then check it the next day.
do you have a heat soarse? torch?
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Yeah I have a propane torch but wouldnt heating it up extend the metal? Thanks for the help
Chris
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Now we're getting somewhere..
If I'm understanding you correctly the pin coming off the frame that supports the brake lever has something holding the brake pedal assembly from moving freely.
There is a cotter pin (#4) are some washers (#2) and (#5) on the inside of the frame holding the brake pedal assembly on.
Remove the cotter pin, pull the washer off and the brake assembly should come off.
(Sorry I can't post the pic, right click on the link and open a new window)
http://partstream.arinet.com/Image?arik=i5afpErLYUAygj6X9I7w&arib=YAM&arim=krN_7cRctHyD8Jr2-nNDmw2&aria=h85T_nsVqKxgkl7HUCHoFg2&ariv=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motosport.com%2Foem-parts&ariz=3
(http://partstream.arinet.com/Image?arik=i5afpErLYUAygj6X9I7w&arib=YAM&arim=krN_7cRctHyD8Jr2-nNDmw2&aria=h85T_nsVqKxgkl7HUCHoFg2&ariv=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motosport.com%2Foem-parts&ariz=3)
Thanks Crazy, But your obviously not the Crazy one here!
Tuck\o/
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I took off everything and it still wont come out...
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Yeah I have a propane torch but wouldnt heating it up extend the metal? Thanks for the help
Chris
It would expand, but if the heat gets to the inner piece,
it will push on the outer making it larger.
then let them cool- they may come apart then.
don`t get them red hot, just heat them up a little.
good luck,
I am guessing the peddle is aluminium and the "post" is steel.
the steel needs more heat for the same reaction.
if you can GENTLY warm just the peddle it may pop apart.
Again, I`m guessing on what the materials are
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I read somewhere not to heat alum. more than one time
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id say if its extremely difficult to remove it just cut it off and get a cheap used one on ebay.
but try to get this one off first
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Ill try again tomorrow..
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Hey guys,
I put all the decals on the yz except for a few that looked really bad on it like the front fender curve that says the website name...and there were 2 others of the same that I cant find where they go...I have to go to a doctors well visit since it was just my birthday so when I get back I will try to repair the rear brake...Thanks
CHris
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I'm wondering why the brake won't slide off... Does it look like it got hit by a rock, or is it just rusted on there Chris?
Something is certainly fishy here...
Hope all went well with The DR. School is just around the corner I hope you can get this stuff worked out before then.
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys,
The brake will not come loose or come off...It doesnt look like it got hit by a rock and its rust free...I have school in 15 days....Oh and Tuck! the jets came today! I owe you! I didnt have time to put the jets in today but ill go ahead and put them in tomorrow...Can you explain what I should do with them....What do I try first? Thanks a bunch!
CHris
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Hey, You don't have to put the amount out there, go back and edit that out please.
Besides you are gonna send me back the ones don't need Right? You only pay for the ones you keep.
plus I sold another chainsaw, so my Honey won't be missing any of the money, and if I pay it back in 30 days there is no interest :wink:.
I certainly don't have alot of money but am willin' to share what we do have.
My wife and daughter are not having to "do without" so I can do little things like sending on the jets or what ever. I only have a few rules to live by my Boss gave me in a Book it's MY Service Manual, The Acronym Spells out Believers Instructions Before Leaving Earth or BIBLE :-D
Now back to the task at hand...
Look around your house for a small magnifying glass, those pilot jet #'s are hard to read.
Check you notes on the size of the pilot for the KX. I got one size smaller and two larger, (I think)
Put the next size larger and warm up the bike.
Give me a call after 8:00 my time and we'll go from there.
Basically it's just better or worse senario just like before.
I think you said you printed out one of the sheets for jetting and have it in the garage... That's what we need to follow.
Rats it's 2:35 Got to sleep,
Tuck\o/
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O.K. Sorry Chris, It was late and I was bushed.
I hope the bike is runnin' better.
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
Sorry for the amount! I edited it out...That was the plan for me to send back the ones I didnt use and pay for the ones I did use!
So your saying go in the garage, read what pilot the kx has in it and put the next size larger and start it up and you will automatically see if it worked? Thanks
Chris
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Hey guys,
I put Tucks 42 pilot in the yz but it performed worse and it was at 45. I saw that 45 was the stock pilot jet so I put it back in and used the exact same mix as my kx takes and thats 32:1. It was running 50:1. It was so much better but still a little bog...The yz is definetely fine where it is with jetting...Now to the kx...By accident we ordered the wrong jets for the kx so we are ordering different ones that will fit...All I gotta do with the yz now is settle this brake problem. Im gonna go out to the garage now and try again on the pedal...
The two problems now that I have to solve is the yz brake pedal and the kx jetting.
Some pictures of the wrong kx jets and before and after of the decals and me on the bike
Please stand by...
THanks
CHris
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Hey Chris,
The Yz Looks like you did an excellent job on the decals. Are you sure you are happy with the way the YZ is running?
We still have to make sure the main is going to be sufficient so as not to damage the cyl/ piston.
I have to take off for a bit but will be back an hour or so to see what we need to get ordered, and about that rear brake!.
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
Thanks so much. I am sure that I am fine with how the yz is running...I like it! haha!
No problem I am going to go into the garage now and I am going to try anything that comes in mind to get this darn thing off! Even a bulldozer! haha just kidding
Thanks
Chris
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Any chance on pic of that brake assembly?
Second set of KX jets are on the way... This better work,, or else!
Tuck\o/
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I will take a pic of it tomorrow. My dad bought an antique malaguti commuter 1 moped from the 70's for 250! runs perfect and I cleaned it up for him and its nice...not even close to as fast as my dirt bikes but its a moped haha...I will be lookin for the jets! Thanks
Chris
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Hey guys,
Tuck, sorry to say this but the jets came today and they are the exact same ones that I had from jets r us before...
Also today I got a 1999 xr70 for 320! runs perfect but needed alot of body work. Pretty much everything was spraypainted...I got the front rim done getting the paint off and its beautiful chrome just like my kx rims! who would cover that with black paint?!?!?! More work on it tomorrow... Let me know Tuck..sorry to say that...
Thanks guys
Chris
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who would cover that with black paint?!?!?!
probably a theif
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haha funny thing about that 1989 kawasaki...when my dad saw it hes like was it stolen? haha so he got the vin and it isnt stolen haha
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wait a sec, I had a 1999 xr70 stolen.
:roll:
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haha lol well its not this cause the record is clean...and guys what works good to get paint off of the fenders? paint thinner? anything? THanks
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Dag Nabit, Im sorry Buddy, What the heck,,, Over? :x I can see one mistake, but I haven't had this much of a problem ordering a few jets. It's a 2000 kx60 I Arghh... well, I have to wait until I get paid for putting together those LT 80's. That will be the 10th....
I think you will find the main (6mm hex) will have the same threads as the round Mikuni main.
Could you check that please?, remove the 6mm hex from the emulsion tube and see if the threads are the same.
somewhere in its life the main easily could have been swapped.
Those pilots look like the right style, but you said they are too large eh? Rats...
The only way I will be able to match them up is if I can ask you to measure them and write down the measurements on a sheet of paper with either a diagram or pointing to the part of the jet the measurment is for and snap a photo.
What a drag man... After all summer it comes down to a few lousy pieces of brass..
Hey lets have a look at the Honda when you get a chance! I had a 71 SL70... I rode the wheels off that thing...
Red just like the piccy http://oldmotorclassic.blogspot.com/2010/01/1971-honda-sl-70-technical.html
Keep all those pilots and mains together for me thanks,
Tuck\o/
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Tuck, please dont worry about buying more and more jets!!! :p....I dont like wasting your time and money. I will take the carb off the kx when I get the chance. This is a busy week for me. Then I will see it the main fits and measure all them and post them up here. Please dont worry!
haha I love all my bikes. The yz is still a bit too powerful and big for me so thats what Im gonna grow into in a year...the kx is my all time favorite once we get the power unleashed out of it again :p I have a little hill in the front of my yard and I swoop the xr around it and ride all on my lawn and when my kx tries to go up the hill in like 2nd gear it dies out then when im at the top the power comes back haha. What do you reccomend to get the paint off of the fenders on the xr?
Thanks tuck and everyone!
Chris
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Trust me I don't like wasting your time either, let me know those sizes when you get a chance, no biggie for me..
I'll be here. I just wanted to see this through to completion.
Other than sanding, the chemicals used to remove the paint can be very caustic.
If you are able to get to a hardware store, take the smallest piece you can with you, like a side panel.
Show them what you have and let them find something you can use without getting to dangerous.
Tuck\o/
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Nope your not wasting my time! I enjoy it and I learn from it for future bikes that I will buy for my kids! haha I will rip the carb off the kx asap when I can.
I tried paint thinner and it barely worked...So I decided to wire brush the loose paint then painted over it. It looks fine! Im not done yet with the rims. I stripped a lot of the parts off of the bike and painted all the stuff original. The side panels, rear fender, front fender, exhaust guards, and frame had to be painted original. Looks much better than before but I still gotta work on the rims and go over the paint again with a second coat and gloss...pics below of before and after of the xr. then me havin fun on the kx. then the effects of the hurricane irene that hit us and the big tree fallen is the street next to me and thats our basement....shoulda kxed down there :p. Sorry for so many pics
Thanks guys
Chris
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Oh Dear Chris,
You didn't mention the storm doing any damage at your place. That's serious water down in the basement.
I hope it didn't get any hihger and ruin anything.. Maybe you should be looking to snag a generator for your folks and a small sump pump to keep the basement from filling up... You're going to need to score some points for taking over the garage!
What happened to the brake on the YZ? Safety First!
That XR looks Good From here! There are a gazillion pitbike parts avaiable for that bike..but I'm sure you already knew that!
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
Theres no damage to our house...just 6 hour straight work of sucking up the water and dumping in a sink.
I have to take a picture of the brake lever, I keep forgetting!!!
Yeah I knew there were a ton of aftermarket parts for hondas...The xr is gonna need some new tires soon....All my dirt bikes actually have dunlops except the xr. The xr has cheng shin's or something like that haha. Gonna need some dunlops soon..My friends dad said he could put the tires on for me so thats good! I will take a pic of the brake lever asap! I dont really ride the yz that much. Once I get bigger I will.
yz = hardcore serious riding when Im bigger
kx = FUN FAST BEAST to keep mint after the jetting is resolved
xr = kind of a beater dirt bike but I still keep it nice...like if I fall all I do is touch it up
Thanks guys
Chris
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Irene got me too! Not as bad as you though, hope you are doing ok! I got power back yesterday morning, was out for about 36 hours. I managed to keep pumping water out of the garage and kept the precious KXs dry! Im south of you near Ft Dix/Maguire AFB.
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Yeah thanks Im doing fine! back to normal! Hope your ok!
Chris
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Hey guys!
its been dead in here lately...Might as well give some updates! I got a chance to snap a photo of the yz rear brake below. Where are we at now? Tuck, you wanted me to take the kx carb off and have a look to see if the main jets fit, am i right? School starts tomorrow :/...Kind of happy about seeing all my friends again and talking about dirt bikes to some of them hahaha! Bummed about the homework part though :/ less time for bikes.
Also a question not related to any of this, but im sure one of you would know. I got a mack bulldog from my friend and it has a lot of pitting so it would need to be re chromed...my dad wants to get it re chromed...how much would something like that be?
Let me know guys.
THanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
Yep, when you have time check if the round mains fit on your KX.
Unfortunately the pilot needs to be sorted out also. and with the temps cooling off soon it will need to be larger.
You are gonna have to find something to put between the frame and the brake lever to get that thing to come off.
What may have happened (besides rust) is a groove has worn in the part of the brake lever that fits through the frame, and the brake lever itself. (or at least the pin that rests in the frame)
You may have to also remove the footpeg to get more up and down movement out of the brake as you pry it off.
Of course when you have time.
I think the chrome shop will want to see the item before they give you an estimate.
What are you guys gonna do with the bulldog after it's done?
I imagine that puppy is gonna be heavy when finnished.. ( yes..pun intended)
Catch you when you have time. try to get some sleep. My daughter couldn't sleep nite before first day. :-D
Tuck\o/
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Almost looks like somebody put a bolt (hex socket) into the brake lever to hold it in, looks totally different from the parts diagramm!? Can't see a pin anywhere on your picture unless you have already taken it off?
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is the whole shaft attached to the brake peddle.
kinda looks like the back part has been beat on and is largerthan the hole it is coming out of.
might need to grind or file it down
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Hey again guys,
Sorry Tuck, ive had no time to take the carb off the kx from all the running around getting school stuff and doing homework. Man 9th grade is much harder than 8th! haha
Yeah were not going to chrome the bulldog, too expensive!
Caddy, I took off everything around the brake lever including the washers, pins, and everything...it should just slide out....If you could post a diagram it would help....maybe im missing something.
Crazy, the pedal is in fine condition. I dont know why it wont just slide out. I think your thinking that the weld spot is larger than the hole...I dont know what to do other than see a diagram...
Thanks a bunch guys!
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Hey guys,
Tuck, I hope I can get time to take the carb off the bike today! I skipped school today to go to a hospital from 8 am to 330 pm! I have ITP which is low platelets and I had to sit in a chair for 7 hours getting medicine into my hand! fun fun fun! I will text you later tuck? Thanks guys
Chris
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Chris,
My middle boy Remington was diagnosed with ITP. The DR.'s tracked us down and had us rush to the hospital....
Turns out his blood platelet count varied every day. They did figure out his levels would spike and drop for no reason at all. One day it was in the toilet and the next it was above normal... He just grew out of it.
15yrs later and no ill effects.
Hope your case turns out to be similar. The Dr.'s wont want you zipping around on your bikes, better listen 'till this all pans out. Take a break from the bikes and stick to school work! it's a bit less dangerous, well for now anyway!
Take care,
Tuck\o/
P.S. I'm still updating the computors. since I'm still using vista there seem to be 10 or 20 microsoft updates everytime I turn the thing on. It Is way faster (almost like new)
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What a coincidence! Hope it turns out the same too! my platelets vary 30,000 to 100,000....hope the treatment helps so I could play soccer this season!
I got the carb off the bike and its sitting in a plastic bag in the garage. I didnt get a chance to try the jets but tomorrow I will try! I will let you guys know. Thanks
Chris
P.P.S. haha Tuck im sure you knew this already but you gotta watch out for what updates you are doing with your computer. Some are viruses and can totally eat up your computer! Other than that the updates are a positive!
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you gotta watch out for what updates you are doing with your computer. Some are viruses and can totally eat up your computer!
That's just wonderful...Since I have PC's I just stick with the microsoft updates... Let me know if the round mains fit the KX carb..
Then we'll check the measurements on the pilot and see about getting those straightened out..
Keep up with the school work so you you don't have a mountain of catch -up. I'm sure things will work out, be a good patient and hang in there. Catch you later.
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
I had a bad fever the other day with a bad headache and hillusination so I wasnt feeling too good the other day...I will probably open the carb today to see if it fits. It is already off the bike so it wont be hard...THanks
CHris
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Hey again,
I just came back from the garage after seeing the jets and the carb...I opened the carb and took the old main jet out and saw if the flathead new jets would fit. They fit but not right...When I tightened it, it didnt stop turning...Then I took it back out and put the old main back in and it wasnt going in normal. Then I tightened it and CRACK! The old jet threads cracked off of the jet...so now until we figure this out no more kx...And it is freezing outside randomly...I wish I could test the kx and see if its normal in cold weather...Some pics of the cracked jet below...
Chris
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This is a link on ebay of what the jet looks like in my carb...well...before it cracked in half lol!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-KAWASAKI-W2-A7-A1-F3-KX60-KDX80-KX80-MAIN-JET-/200559479421?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb246ca7d
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Sorry for posting so many things but Im thinking why this jetting issue is occuring and how they are different...Im starting to think the carb on my bike isnt a 2000...My bike Im 100% sure is a 2000 from the vin number but look at this parts diagram of a 2000 kx60 carb....The main jets that Tuck sent me look like these in the diagram...hmmmm
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-kawasaki-kx60-kx60b16-us/o/m3886#sch61218
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Chris,
According to my sources that main jet fits the 1985 thru 2002 KX60........maybe this is the reason Tuck has had difficulty aquiring the proper jets. Hope this helps.
DoldGuy
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Dag Nab-it! I hate when that happens... the broken jet and the halicinations... Neither one were very good...
Thanks for jumping in Doug, Are you saying the HEX jet is right or it should br the ROUND one?
Sorry for more problems Chris... You can probably get the broken jet out of the emulsion tube with a small easy out. The problem is the threads may be messed up...
I have a few of those tubes I can send out and I'll look for a standard keihin main to replace the broken one...
I should have double checked the carb when I had it. If you look on the side of the carb body there should be some letters and numbers. That may tell us what carb may have been placed on your bike..
Let me get the emulsion tube and some mains headed that way and start again.
I got another Idea, but I don't know if I can swing it...
Take care of yourself and take a break on the bikes until the blood stuff gets stabilized...
Drain the fuel and carbs if you can and take it easy for awhile.
I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Tuck\o/
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Tuck,
Check this link:
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_dirt/kawasaki_060_KX60.htm
Hope it answers some questions,
DoldGuy
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Hey again,
Tuck, I will try to get the other half of the main out of the emulsion tube but its gonna be hard...I think i should just send my carb out to you with all the jets you sent me including some money...then you can see what is meant for the carb...it will be slower if I try...theres definetely something were missing here...And also Tuck I have a question...When youput the kx engine back together how did you know where to put the stator on what lines? I think thats the reason why it has less power...Also The kx wasnt bogging anymore but its revving high...like when you start the bike and you rev it, it like catches on a high rpm then never goes back down all the way...its not the throttle cable...Thanks.
CHris
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Hey Guy's,
Thanks Doug, However that's where I got the jets both times. I thought the first go around may have been a mistake.
Ordered the second time and got the same results. (you know what they say about that)
The jets appear to be correct for the 2000 kx 60 Like Chris said, same ones on several parts diagrams.
So if the carb is off something else it will do no good. Or Somone else swapped out the emulsion tube with one that will use the 6mm hex keihin main...
I can measure the jets that do fit, and cross reference them with a supplier.
What a drag... I hate to spend $40.00 shipping the carb back and forth...
I could have gotten a carb for a KX 65 for about $117.00 + ship (that would have an air screw)
However I am still looking at another three months or so off work. Rats...
Tell you what Chris, Look on the body of the carb and tell me what numbers and letters you see.
I'll find out what you do actually have and go from there. Don't worry about getting the broken threads out of the Tube. I'll get another one..
Also The kx wasnt bogging anymore but its revving high...like when you start the bike and you rev it, it like catches on a high rpm then never goes back down all the way...its not the throttle cable...Thanks
I think what you may have been expieriencing was a lean condition caused by the much cooler temps.
Now if I understand you, there is frost in the morning so it's cooling down quickly.
Apart from an air leak, the hanging Idle would indicate the pilot is lean.
I'll get the some parts headed your way tonight...
Take Care and Thanks D'Gold Guy!
Tuck\o/
Good news..
I was going over several sites and went back to jetsrus and look what I found...
Chris, if you can find a ruler you can I dentify the proper pilot by the length.. There are three different pilots that resemble yours and they are all different lengths..
Pull the pilot and let me know the length, I will get the Mikuni 6mm mains to match.
I believe you have a carb off of a kx65.
http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_identify_that_jet.htm
T\o/
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Hey guys,
Good news! Im playing soccer today after 2 and a half years! Im gonna be a little rusty haha.
Tuck, I cant measure the main jet cause it snapped in half and the other half is in the emulsion tube...now what are we gonna do!
Theres a much cheaper way of shipping the carb even if it takes longer its worth it! Probably 8 dollar range and I will pay for it!
Tuck, after the soccer game I will call you up if thats ok and read the stuff I see on the kx carb although the other day I saw that one set of numbers is partially worn away...OFCOURSE! trying to make it tougher on us!
Ok, lets start on the thing I keep forgetting to post up here! I didnt realize that I had the b8eis or the weird one ment to take more heat I had it in for like a month and forgot to switch it out....during that time the engine always got SUPER hot! I could feel the heat off of the engine on my legs! The plug was blackish...SO about a week ago I put the regular b9es in and I went for a 5 minute ride and checked the plug and still looked new pretty much. I still have to check if the engine gets just as hot with that plug but now I cant until we resolve the jets! Sorry for writing so much!
Tuck, one of those jets looks exact to mine! I looked at the parts diagram of my year carb and it has like a round edge indents emulsion tube then the flathead main jet...mine are both hex...
Also guys, I have not been enjoying my yz that much since there appears to be a hole in the exhaust pipe and its just so big and powerful. someone tried patching the exhaust up. So everyday I see a puddle of oil on the floor and a rear tire coated in oil! A guy made an offer to me today to trade my yz for his 2000 kx100 in great condition! I love kx's! On kbb, the retail value for my yz is 1,220 and the kx is 1,020...But I love kx's soo much from you guys and I know I can get help with any problems. Let me know what I should do with this deal. THanks so much and sorry for so much writing!
CHris
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Good deal on getting out and playin' soccer. I'm lucky I can get to the bathroom! :lol:
Be careful it's a tough sport!
Don't worry about the main jet, there's only one 6mm. I will get the right one's.
( Now that I'm sure the carb is not off a 2000 kx60.)
I will need to know the pilot series.. remove the pilot and tell me which one has the same lenghth and thread patteren.
I will have the jets sent as soon as you can get the description of the pilot.
Two sizes over 200 and one size smaller, same with the pilot, and the emulsion tube or (jet needle) the
main screws into.
I have my phone with me, shoot a text and give me 5 min to clean -up before calling. I'm painting the trim on the house for excercise instead of walking at a track or whatever...
I'm not so sure the plug will cause the bike to run that hot its the jetting. you are running lean and need to richen up the bike before doing any damage.. That's why it was hot.too lean..
Why don't you get another pipe for the YZ? after fixing the rear brake it should run great, no?
What all don't you like about the YZ? I think you are still seeing the efects of the bike being too rich and leaving a trail of oil on your exhaust. Better than being too lean...
I'm sure the guy who wanted to trade the KX isn't doing it out of the kindness of his heart... I could be wrong..
But if your YZ runs great. and his KX needs re-built. It's gonna be an expensive trade.
I would advise you to get someone to look at the KX before making the trade. Or Bargain for some cash plus the bike.
Your YZ has a custome suspension that could have easily cost 300.00 just to re-spring, change seals and oil.
That's not including swaping out shim stacks.. Not everyone is gonna be looking out for your best interest!
It doesn't matter to us Old Guys what bike you end up with we actually enjoy them all.
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys,
Tuck, the pilot jet is 9/10th's of a mm and the threads are a little more than half of the whole pilot jet as i told you on the phone.
The kx doesnt bog anymore but it revs high and stays high...And major loss in power...after the jetting if the power doesnt come back im pretty sure its the stator position...I remember reading online that some people say if the stator is lower it gives less of a powerband and if its higher theres more of a powerband...Although the kx still bogs out and wants to die going up even the smallest hills...
I fixed the exhaust by hammering it back into where it was suppose to be...Still havent fixed the rear brake yet...dont know why it wont budge...my yz still doesnt run just right...in first second and third it doesnt go smoothly...jetting...but theres absolutely no where to ride the yz cause my property is not that big so when me and my friends are old enough that we can drive I will throw my bikes in a trailer or their truck and we will go dirt biking! So no hurry on the yz...more focused on the kx
I decided not to take the deal cause the guy didnt have the title...probably stolen...I just wish I could get my yz seat lower...and my kx seat higher! Im thinking a lot of washers under the three seat screws would lift it a little..I dont want to cut the seat apart but I looked it up and people like lower the forks and put things on the back wheel but I dont want to get that intense! something cheap...
I love all my bikes but I would much rather enjoy all kx's!!! haha Thanks
Chris
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Hey there Chris,
There is taller seat foam available for the kx. The seat on the YZ can have a step cut in it like the bigger bikes.
This is the carb I'm pretty sure you've got and the jets I'll order plus the needle jet.
http://www.jetsrus.com/carburetor/carb_mikuni_VM26-606_carb_exploded_view_parts.html
210 220 230 main 32.5 35 37 pilot & the needle jet.
Have a look and make sure I haven't goofed it up.
I have the parts saved in my cart and ready to pull the trigger if you think this looks right.
Tuck\o/
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hey tuck,
That carb is not mine. It looks similar but the idle screw is straight out and gold colored. And Its a different model...I will list the jet sizes and jet needle size.
jet needle/emulsion tube = 332 N-8 with the mikuni sign in between the two sets of numbers
main jet = 200
pilot jet = 30
CHris
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ALso Tuck, the link that you posted in the previous posts which is this: http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_identify_that_jet.htm
I found my two exact ones! When it starts the Mikuni jets, it is the 2nd one down and the 10th one down.
Chris
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Oky Dokey Chris,
The third time is the Charm...well it better be I'm running out of Items to sell!! If I don't get this right this time around you'll be a grad student at MIT before we get your bikes running right!
Thank you for verifying the jets.
I found my two exact ones! When it starts the Mikuni jets, it is the 2nd one down and the 10th one down./quote]
Let me know when you have them and had a chance to install them. I would go with the #220 main and a #35 pilot for starters
Take Care,
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
I am reimbursing you as much as I can! haha Im trying to find really really cheap dirt bikes that need to be rebuilt after I pay you back so I could have a little fun rebuilding it! haha I watched a 4 stroke rebuild on youtube and I was so confused on how there is an actual chain in the engine which was the timing chain...how in the world do you connect it....
I will let you know when I receive the jets and I will do exactly what you reccomend first!
-
If you want to learn about valvetrains (4 stroke) you have plenty of time and the web has plenty of info.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9tfIfwlmz8&feature=related
Let's just say you get all the bugs worked out and send me the stuff you don't need. The best way to be re-payed is just keep doing what you are supposed to. Work hard at school, be good to your family and friends.
The goods are on the way...AGAIN!
"T" \o/
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Ok no problem Tuck. I will be looking for the package! I cant wait to get this finally sorted out. The jetting is making my bike perform terribly. Ill let you guys know when the jets arrive. THanks!
CHris
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Chris,
have you been changing one thing at a time?
I know a guy just wants to sort ( work ) on all the problems at once,
I am bad at that, then see if it works.
Try ta remember you have plenty of time to get it running like YOU think it should.
One thing at a time bud.
You can do it!
out
Crazy :-P
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Hey crazy,
I have been changing one at a time.
Still haven't received the jets, but Ill be looking everyday!
Thanks guys.
Chris
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Now what :|...they shoulda' been there by now. :x..
let me see what's goin' on...
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys,
Tuck resolved the problem and found out that the needle jet is on backorder so we have to wait till it comes.
Also guys, I rode my yz today and I can tell im gonna love it when I get bigger. But the thing is it still doesnt run right and the giant oil spills....when I walk into the garage theres about a foot long 6 inch wide puddle of oil and the back tire is soaked in the oil drips. I found out where it is coming from. It is coming from the bottom part of the muffler. WHen I bought the bike I noticed that someone put some sort of glue substance that sealed it. I took it off and it started making a huge puddle. I tried hammering it closed but it didnt work...I guess when someone tried repacking it they bent the metal I guess...So I want to open the muffler but I dont knoe how to work with rivets...Dont you drill them out? The bike sounds like it doesnt have to be repacked but I want to open it and clean the packing and fix that leak...If you guys could guide me through that would help! THanks Chris
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I got an e-mail yesterday the jets are on the way. again..
The spooge on the YZ is jetting related but one bike at a time..
The rivets get drilled out. you can replace them with new rivets or just use tek-screws (sheet metal self tapping)
I'll look for a vid on the rivets.
Can you snap a photo of the connection your talking about. With winter coming you may want to remove the pipe and see about getting all the excess oil out. If you keep making an oil mess in the garage it may not go well with the folks if they step in it!
Tuck\o/
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what was the problem with the KX?
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The carb was not the stock piece, finally got the correct jets on the way. I had ordered jets for the bike and had them sent to Chris. Upon arrival the jets were not even close. Re-ordered thinking I made a mistake...
Wrong second time What the heck..
Found out the carb was off a 65 or something similar... Ordered jets again.. back ordered for a week. now they are on the way..again..
(sent Chris the tracking #)
Here's what a pop rivet is and how it works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aoXmzdSf_I&feature=related
To remove them you can grind off the head with a sanding disk or drill the rivet out.
If you don't have a pop rivet gun and rivets you can use self tapping sheetmetal screws to put the silencer back together. After cleaning and re-packing! :-D
Tuck\o/
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Tuck, Im gonna go into the garage and take the muffler off right now and take a look at it cause I have nothing else to do! haha that video made me understand how rivets work. THanks guys. CHris
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No Homework!?
Don't wait till Sunday night!...Check your Hotmail :-)
I have a Another LT-80 I have to put together so My Buddy and his kid can break it in and run it this weekend.
I'll check back later this evening.
"T" \o/
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I know a much easyer way of taking rivets out... sanding is destructive (scratch other parts)..
get a drill bit.. that is about 3/4 the size of the head of the rivet.... drill... it will cut and sepparate the head from the Shaft of the rivet before you get into the pipe, etc...
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YOU SIR! the good friar! you're my hero. Chris, you're in the right place.Although I've not looked in on this for a while, I still admire your enthusiasm, and if you end up building engines for moto xyz 7,000,000,000 in twenty years time, remember where you came from!!! :-D K.
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Hey guys,
Thats great to hear that they are on the way! cant wait to get the kx running right!
I went into the garage and took apart the muffler. It turns out I didnt have to take any rivets out...the rivets held in the billet cap at the end of the pipe. There were 2 screws to take the thing apart. The packing was soaked in oil. So I cleaned it as best as I could and sealed it back up and so far it doesnt leak anymore! We will see if it totally worked tomorrow.
Also if I ever sell one of my dirt bikes it would be the xr. Im thinking of selling the xr for 600ish then paying Tuck as much as I can back and then buy something similar. I think theres something wrong with the gearbox on xr. THats what my friend said today...when you shift it makes a click noise...I dont know if thats normal or not...If I sold it I would want a quiet kx sized bike. THanks for the responses guys.
CHris
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Different bikes make different noises.Dont be spooked into selling it cheap.K.
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Kwack makes a good point,
The xr is a semi-auto right? I don't recall you saying anything about the XR acting up.
Don't sell the bike account you feel you owe me anything.
I still have several parts saws I have to get listed on ebay, that's where I get my spending cash :wink: It's not getting nicked out of the household expenses.
You are going to have to replace that silencer packing when possible, it's not really performing as intended soaked with oil.. :|
Catch you later,
Tuck\o/
Oh Yea, I found this in our gallery on the "correct" :wink: method for removing rivets! I know...Facsinating :-D
http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=3
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Yeah, with the xr Im not sure if its normal or if its a problem but it has no effect on performance so im leaning towards the "its normal" side. The xr is a semi auto with 3 gears.
I plan on repacking it when I get christmas money or something. WHat is the absolute best stuff to buy that will make it as quiet as possible?
Also guys I came across an insane deal! I have a listing on craigslist saying I want your junky dirt bikes. A guy texted me and said he has a 1984 suzuki dr100. It runs but is in rough condition. I asked how much he wanted. He said $75! Unfortunately its 1 hour and 10 away so my dad said he might take me on sunday afternoon! It will be something fun to do to fix it up and sell it for like 500 on craigslist and put that money towards dirtbike parts and a car. Thanks guys.
Chris
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chris-mets
the youngest motorcycle dealer in the U.S.A.
:-P
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Hey Chris,
Get ahold of 1989 kawasaki and ask him how much it costs restoring an old bike... Spending some time with Pop is Great Idea, ecspecially if he spends most time working. But you can drop several hundred dollars on a bike and not do any cosmetic repairs, be careful!
The exhaust packing is usually less than $20.00 There will probably be enough for both of your bikes easily. Unless you get a package specifically for mini's.
If you need to quiet down the exhaust note you will have to look into a different silencer. But, that's more dough...
The new packing will help quiet the bikes down some but not a whole lot. Remember the KX and YZ are motocross bikes so they weren't built with alot of sound reduction as a consideration. The XR shouldn't be too loud is it? .
When you are able to ride a bigger bike there are more options as far as sound deadening, but it won't be so quiet the neighbors won't know your riding.
There is a contraption called a DB Snorkle.
It looks kind of crazy but I'm told it works great. ( http://www.thedbsnorkel.com/ )
T\o/
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Haha Thats what my whole family says...With my childhood I find garbage on the street and sell it on craigslist. I found a tractor and it didnt run...I sprayed starting fluid and fired right up...sold it for 120 haha and there was much more such as leafblowers, a snowblower, and bikes and other stuff...
Im not planning on restoring the bike but looking the best it can get without spending any money. I am going to make it fully functional which Im pretty sure he already said it is...then fix it up cosmetically...
The xr sounds like a motorcycle and is perfect sounding with the exhaust. I like the xr just how it is...no bog or smoke...well its a four stroke soo...
When I am done with other stuff Ive been doing and I earn some money I am going to go ahead and buy new packing after the jetting is fixed...Cause I didnt get all of the oil out of the packing so it still is dripping but not nearly as bad...The thing is I dont want to buy new packing then soak it again cause of the jetting...
The dr is from what I see as the specs on the internet its about the same size as my kx with the seat height of 30 inches...but much longer and it has valves and light. No clue how valves work either haha. I actually decided like a week ago that im choosing to be in the auto engineering/mechanic field. I would try to own my own store too to make more dough.So try to teach me anything possible
That DB Snorkle looks awesome! Its so unique. I tried to look at pricing and theyre all sold out. THey must me good.
Thanks guys.
CHris
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Hey guys,
I bought the dr on sunday for 75 bucks! Im liking it. I am busy cleaning it and repainting stuff. Also it needs a clutch cable cause the one it has on it, the guy broke the end off of it. Also I want to get a new throttle cause it has a pocket bike throttle on it and it doesnt return when you rev it...I opened it today and its not the needle slide or carb. Its not the cable. Its the throttle so I have to regain money and purchase those 2 things. I will get pics when Im done fixing it up.
Good news! jets came today Tuck! I didnt get the chance to open them up today cause im busy with homework actually right now haha I took a break but I can put them on tomorrow most likely. Also Tuck, just wondering if you fully recovered and can get around now from your surgery?
Thanks guys.
Chris
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Chris,
I'm doing pretty darn good for an old Crow. I do have to wait another 6 weeks before I have the left side done. Then another month recovery before I can get back to work.
I really wasn't counting on having this much time off between parts replacement, but I don't have much of a choice...
Any way... Hope school is going well.. You don't want the folks having any reason to keep out of your shop...I mean garage...
They are gonna start charging you rent if you get any more bikes in there... :-D
I am hoping this time is the charm and you can finally get your bike dialed in. (jetting)
Crikeys it's been all bloody summer...Your kids are gonna get more seat time on at than you! :lol:
Well I guess one good thing is that you are not afraid to take the carb off or swap jets any more.
You are gonna be the expert in the neighborhood on small engines now...
Take Care,
Tuck\o/
Sorry I was at a union meeting for a while and realized my phone was dead when I got home.
Go with the next size up from where you left off. 30.5 I think on the pilot and 210 on your main on the thrird clip position to start.
"T" \o/
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Good to hear! Hopefully the left side is much easier to go through. Can you feel the difference of each sides?
School is going good. One class I have to work harder in though.
haha hopefully they wont. My brother has a ton of vintage bicycles like the schwinn dx, stingray, etc. He also has a old bicycle with a old motor on it! He cant get it running but after I get my bikes situated then I will help him.
Ive gotten much better at taking the carb on and off the bike. I dont even have to think about it anymore! Good news! I opened the jets package and opened the carb to see if they all fit. Theyre all a match! Now Tuck and I have to dial it in.
Please stand by.
Thanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
Yes there is a definate difference with my new replacement parts. I have been working around the house to try and get the right side back in to some sort of shape. however thre left side is now holding back my progress. I'll get all fixed up it will just be a while.. I'm hoping to be able to get the 5oo next summer and see if I can do some trail riding.
I keep telling my kids to take care of themselves, so I'm gonna keep telling You and 89'er the same thing! Hey, Take Care of yourself!
Get some gloves and wear them as much as possible to keep the chemicals off your hands... I used to think gloves were for sissies until my hands started cracking and bleeding...
Lecture over...
Now- Read through the section on fuel in your clymer to get an Idea of what all is happening when you swap those jets out.
Like when the bike is idleing, off idle to about 1/2 throttle and then 1/2 to W.O.T. (Wide Open Throttle)
The reason is so you know what to adjust. the pilot,clip position or main.
You will need a book for your Suzuki DR also.. Look for a used copy. it has the same info as a new one for half price!
Tuck\o/
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Hopefully the next surgery will turn out just as good. I actually just asked my mom to get the rubber gloves from her work haha.
What jets should I try for the first try and 3rd clip position? When I get the time tomorrow I will call you if that is ok and we can talk through it. Im trying to spend the least money possible for the dr cause I plan on putting a lot of work into it and fixing it up then selling it to buy another kx or just save the money for a car. Let me know about the jets and clip position. Thanks
Chris
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I would try a 35 pilot and a 220 main 3rd clip position on the needle.
I'm sure the temps are pretty cool in the morning and warm up a bit in the afternoon.
should be up after 8:am my time
T \o/ :-D
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Hey Tuck,
Sorry, I couldnt get a chance to put them in today cause I had soccer, then I had to go to my grandmas to help her fix her tv for the whole day. Tomorrow I should be able to put them in although I do have a travel soccer game at 3. I will let you know.
That forum that I made with all the kx's is awesome! Tuck, would you be able to post a pic of your bike up there? I would love to see it!
Thanks.
Chris
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Family First Amigo, The bikes and all will be there when you have time.
I'll get a pic of my old gal this evening I think. I have a few pics on photobucket of the engine but not the whole
bike. Nothing special I assure you, but a good runner.
Catch you later,
Tuck\o/
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Good news! I put the 35 pilot and 220 main in just like what Tuck said and its back to normal now! The power is back! I put new Renthal grips on the bike I got from a friend. Im gonna try to find out how to get a video of me riding. Is it possible to post vids up here? or do I put it on youtube then get the link? Thanks guys.
Chris
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Update: It is not dead on but it is almost there! The bike makes a clicking noise when accelerating. I think one size up pilot to the 37.5 would do it. Then if that stops the jetting problem and theres still not as much power then I probably have to adjust the stator.
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Another update: I put in the 37.5 and the bike smokes a LOT of white smoke and it still doesnt have the power it use to. RIght now im mixing 32:1 exact and Im running 37.5 pilot and 220 main. WHat is not right with this? THanks guys.
Chris
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Chris,
You said your getting alot of white smoke with the larger pilot.
If the bike ran better with the #35 go back down on the pilot and increase your main if you think the bike can handle it. If the clicking noise you are hearing is detonation the larger main should fix that. You should have one size larger main in the last order that came a #230.
If you continue to get alot of white smoke below 1/2 to 3/4 throttle you will start to see the dreaded oil spooge start to appear. The larger main should give you more fuel from 1/2 to full throttle.
Why do you think you need to adjust the timing? The bike ran well before the meltdown, and I didn't change the port timing enough to warrant it. By matching the ports, and cleaning up the casting flaws the flow will increase.
Raising and widening the exhaust will start the exhaust blowdown a bit earlier but I don't think enough that it would warrant a timing change.
You surely can try to go either way, but I think you will have to remove the flywheel to get to the screws that will allow you to move the stator plate.
I'm glad the bike is finnally running better. It may take a bit more tweaking but I'm sure you'll get it.
Remember as the temp continues to drop you will have to increase your jet sizes as there is more oxygen in the air (per cubic foot of the atmosphere ).
So you will have to richen the mixture.
Take Care, and hang in there.
T\o/
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Hey Tuck,
I cant tell if it ran better or worse with the 35 but there certainly was much more smoke with the 37.5...
Should I go into the bike again tomorrow and run 37.5 with a 230 main?
I remember reading somewhere that if you move the stator up or down that it will give more of a kick with the powerband...THe bike use to have a crazy powerband in any gear even first. Now there is no powerband except in 6th at full throttle. Say if im wrong or not.
Also I remember my bikes always ran the same way in hot or cold weather. I think if I get it at one base where it runs perfect then it wont be so bad. Tell me if Im wrong again.
Let me know what I should do with the jets. 37.5 with 230?
THanks.
Chris
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Chris,
The pilot jet is what the bike is idleing and running primarily up to about half throttle or so.
From around half throttle to full throttle is your main jet.
The needle and clip adjustment will help with how well the bike makes the transition from Idle to full throttle, or how cleanly the bike accellerates.
What is not right, and what does your plug look like? Does the bike start easily or is a buggar.
Go back through the fuel section of your clymer and there is a breakdown of what circuit in the carb is working or overlapping to the next circuit.
If you have a reason to believe you need to adjust the timing make small adjustments. You can always start over at the stock setting. This is just part of learning, it just takes time.
Hang in there buddy.
Tuck\o/
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That made me understand more. I actually did notice a difference in starting the bike. With the 35 it started first kick everytime without the choke. Now with the 37.5 it starts with like 4 kicks and I want it back to 1 kick since it was just rebuilt...
Im going to do my homework now then Im going into the garage. I will look at the plug then try 35 with 230 main.
After understanding that the main does half to full throttle I think thats the problem instead of the timing.
Thanks
Chris
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You may be right Chris,
But You have to be methodical in going through the systems and like the other guys have stated , Only make one change at a time. That's the only way you can Isolate the problem. If you have enough Money to throw at a problem you can eventually fix or find it. But being responsible with your cash on hand is something your parents will be watching. It certainly will tell other people how responsible you are with what you have.
The downside is it does take time...However the more you work with troubleshooting,
The quicker you can recognize symptoms or similar symptoms that lead to solutions.
If manipulating the main doesn't get what you feel the engine should have in it.
Then you can move to the next area you feel isn't right. If you feel the timing needs to be checked there is a way to verify it's correct. I hate to keep saying it... but have a look in the Clymer in the ignition section and and read through how to check it.
Tuck\o/ :-D
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Hey Tuck,
I put the 35 with 230 in the bike and im am very happy where it is at. There is still no powerband except 6th gear full throttle but its manageable. It still smokes but not near as much and it starts first kick again. Ill be sure to check how the spark plug looks tomorrow. I don't know what it is. What Im wondering is how did you know what spot to put the stator on when you rebuilt it? I had a picture of the exact lines where it was before it blew up. Did you put it to stock? ALso Im wondering if I took the flywheel cover off would oil pour out or does oil not go to that part of the engine?
THanks Tuck.
Chris
p.s. that kx bike forum I made is going great! I wanna see your bike, TUck, if you can!
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Hey Chris,
No there won't be any oil under the cover on the flywheel / magneto side.
The timing should be set in the stock position. With the mild port work and no other mods to the bike I didn't think changing the timing would improve anything.
I think I've read your last post 7 or 8 times and am trying to figure out how the bikr revs out wide open in 6th but no powerband 1st thru 5th...
I think you are telling me there is a lack of acceleration.
Move the clip down one notch and see if the bike needs more fuel. this will richen the mixture slightly.
With no air screw the only adjustment you have left is the needle and needle position.
If the bike runs good wide open it may just be telling you it can take more fuel.
You may give it a try before opening up the left engine cover.
Tuck\o/
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Ok good to know that I dont have to empty the oil if I open it. WHen my old phone broke, it had the exact line position of the stator as a picture on it. I might have it on my other phone though. I have to check.
I will take a look at everything tomorrow If i have extra time tomorrow.
THanks Tuck
Chris
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Update: I checked my old phone and it had the picture! then I opened the cover and it was exactly the same! So that means it is certainly jetting. That solved it.
THanks
Chris
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Oh wait I didnt check it right. I only looked at the lines and I didnt look at the arrows on the case. I will get back tomorrow to check.
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Hey guys. I checked if the timing was right again and it was. So its still the jetting. also when the cover was off I noticed a little puddle of oil in the case...what could that be
Also, today I got a motorcycle for $60! It is a 1978 Honda hawk 400cc. Great condition except the engine I have to scrub like crazy with a brillow pad. I bought it non running. The things that it needs is a battery, a throttle cable and brake cable...The throttle cable doesnt move and there is no brake cable or battery...Its a dual carb two cylinder bike. My friend has a similar bike and he said he could help me. He got his non running too and its running now. His is a four carb cb750. Im never riding it probably until im like 18 haha. It is so big and heavy. I tried kicking it and I can barely push it down one notch. So I have to get the battery for the elctric start.
One more thing. My friend gave me his pocket bike to fix for him. Its an x19 he bought from minipcoketrockets.com. He just bought it and it broke down. It is definetely wiring I know that. My friend that has the cb, a klx140, anda ttr90, said he could help cause hes good at wiring. The bike doesnt crank. Its only electric start automatic. No noise when pressing the button to start it. THe fuse is good but no spark obviously cause it doesnt crank.
Thanks guys.
Chris
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Oh My goodness!
You are gonna have to start making room in your "Shop" for all the new projects. :-D
Look around for a digital multimeter and check out some vids on how to use one. Sounds like you are gonna need one. The sooner you pick one up and learn how to use it the better.
You should see if you can pick up one of those books by Eric Gorr and a service manual for that Hawk.
One more suggestion is a book called how to restore your classic motorcycle. I think it's by motorbooks workshop. The carbs will be a little different but same basic Idea, meter the fuel and air.
Take some photo's of the area you are gonna work on in case things don't look "right".
You should also pay attention to the way the throttle cables are hooked up,the linkage between them and how they are hooked together. Also be very careful to label the vacuume lines to the carb and possibly the Fuel tap/petcock. Alot of bikes have a vacuum line to the tank to keep the tank vented and open the fuel to the carbs. Take your time, take good notes, take digi photo's and label the connections clearly.
Tuck\o/
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Haha Im catching up to a kid I know that is in my grade. He I believe has 8 or 9.
From what I searched digital multimeters are pretty cheap so I will be sure to get one when Im at it.
The Hawk actually came with the original 1978 manual! haha my friend that has his cb, he said when he took his carbs off (4 carbs) it will be impossible to ge tthem back on without a special oil because the rubber is so old and the oil will soften it back up.
I got a picture for you guys of all my toys except the dr cause its apart right now cause my dad is getting the seat reapolstered.
Thanks guy.
CHris
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This will have some of the info you seek Grass-Hoopa
http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Motorcycle-Motorbooks/dp/0760337721/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1319683517&sr=1-2
:-D
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well i havnt read all th posts but check to make sure your niddle is not bent. check your plug gap i messed around with mine and got where i liked it.as far as the air screw you do have one you just have to drill to get to it. never understood why they covered it. i went and bought a brand new one for 110 from sudco. still have some minor adjustments to do but alot better than it was. you might want to check your float height also
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man i must say, you have some fine machines right there :-o
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TUck, I will be sure to check that link out. I also got to get those jets sent back out to you. About the kx now. When I go in the garage to start it up, I turn the gas on and kick it. Before, it took 1 kick every single time without the choke. Now with the jets in it, i try to start it without the choke and I kick 4 times without choke then I pull the choke out and it starts 1 or 2 after that. Why is this? Also when its running, I turn the choke off then rev it a little. Its at a highish rpm when idling but after letting it warm up for like 3 mins, it goes to a lower idle then stays there and is good from there. Is this normal? its not a problem but im thinking this might help diagnose the long time of starting.
Im gonna do my homework now then get working more on the cb. I actually got my friends pocket bike running for him and I put the carb back on and all the cases. I had to take the positive wire and put it touching the two metal parts onthe circle cdi. THen it sparked a lot and cranked. THen I charged it and it works now. But it doesnt stay idling. My friend with the cb says he still thinks the battery needs to be charged even more cause the horn doesnt work. So im gonna charge it more.
I hope I can manage to get the carbs off the cb today. THe clutch lever is really stiff too. I adjusted the freeplay and its still stiff...I think its cause its such a big bike/engine? Ill do updates when I can. Thanks 1989 kawasaki. YOur bikes are really nice too.
Thanks guys.
Chris
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I'm on my way out the door to another Dr. apptment... Choke first, start it warm up then choke off.
Yes that's right especially now that it's colder. Choke on-> warm up -> choke off
Careful with the electronics... one false move could fry the ignition.
Catch you later this eve. or early tomorrow.
T\o/
P.S. finally posted your piccy's :-P
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Hey Tuck, when do you want me to send those jets back out to you? Anytime let me know.
Also why does it take longer to start? I miss the old 1 kick and it goes no problem. Tell me what I should do to get it running like it is now and have 1 kick again? Although it does smoke a lot still. Thanks.
Chris
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Hey guys,
My power went out for 2 days then I just got my internet and cable and power back like a minute ago. Still waiting on a response.
Thanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
I heard you guys got some pretty heavy snow this weekend. Must be the global warming from all your motorcycles! :-o Hope you guys made it all right.
I have been trying to get as much wood in as I can before it starts snowing here or I get my other side rebuilt. so I haven't been here as much, I find out for sure if I get my new left side re-built nov 9th.
O.K. , about this 60..
You said then I pull the choke out and it starts 1 or 2 after that.
With the cold weather you guys are having the engine may take a few kicks to get her going.
Fuel will not atomize as easily in cold weather, or the engine is cold.
Thats why you have a choke on the bike, to get more fuel in the engine for starting. Once the engine starts the increased velocity of the air being drawn through the carb will help atomize the fuel. and once the engine warms up the fuel air mixture will be warmed up as its pulled through the engine and pumped through the crankcase.
You simply have to put on the choke first and then start kicking the bike. Two or three kicks to start the bike does not seem excessive to me. Be careful if you intend on riding during the really cold weather. Its just as easy to run the bike lean in cold weather as it is in hot weather.
I think there is going to be a bit more smoke with the less expensive oils you have been running.
I'm not saying there will be no smoke with some of the more expensive oil, but it should be less.
Something else to consider is the bike is going to smoke jetted on the safe or rich side as opposed to running on the edge.
I wish I had a magic formula to give you and the bike will be set up perfect every time, but that's just not possible.. I can tell you that if you stick with it, and keep reading all the material
you can on jetting, oils, and two stroke engine basics you will "Get it" and it will all make sense.
The only thing I would be doing to get the bike to run better is keep working with it.
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
thanks for the response. We are fine now. The house was 50 inside which was colder than outside! and I was locked out of the garage cause its electric! haha
I realized that your probably right with the engine being cold...cause everytime I start the kx now I pull the choke out and starts on the second kick most of the time. Then say I turn it off after 5 mins, it will start 1 kick no choke. Also about the kx. Something is up with the clutch. Say I start the bike and it is idling. Then I go to pull the clutch in then click down to first gear. It will still go forward if I totally let off the clutch then give it gas but with some bog. Like with any other clutch bike, the bike will just shut off no doubt about it. What could this be?
Also with the yz, which im fooling with today about the oil problem, it shoots black oil out the exhaust when riding. Also still drips and drools. This is all unburnt oil. I like how its running now but the oil is a big pain. I guess since I changed the ratio and not the jets, it is running wayyy too rich and is just shooting out the unburnt oil.
Now about the cb400...I put 3 new fuses in, connected jumper cables from my moms car to the bike, and it cranked and all the lights work!...Im working on taking the carbs off....they are clogged solid. That is why the throttle wasnt budging..I disconnected all the cables from the carb (2 throttle cables and choke cable) and they all moved freely...So now I gotta yank off those carbs and clean them and buy a battery then it should be good.
Thanks.
Chris
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dont put the choke on for 5 mins. only keep it on for less than 10 secs
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noo I meant turn the bike off after 5 minutes lol
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noo I meant turn the bike off after 5 minutes lol
:lol: :lol:
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Nevermind about the kx with the clutch. Cause usually when I put it into first gear I roll it forward then let off the clutch.
Still waiting on a reply with the yz.
About the cb400...I worked on it more today with the help of my friend and we got the carb off...THen we opened it and tried cleaning it as best we could. All 4 jets were clogged and the bowls and everything was totally gummed up. We got the jets unclogged and most we could ungummed. Everything we got working except the throttle still doesnt move. It moves if you push it hard down then it wont go back to the original position. I looked in the manual and I didnt get anything from there. What is it?
Thanks
Chris
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Still waiting on a reply with the yz.
Higher quality oil and corrected jetting will solve the spooge a.k.a.
dripping or drooling oil from the exhaust. Sorry, you have to start that all over again. But I bet you are twice as fast as pulling the carb than last summer! :-D
Say I start the bike and it is idling. Then I go to pull the clutch in then click down to first gear. It will still go forward if I totally let off the clutch then give it gas but with some bog. Like with any other clutch bike, the bike will just shut off no doubt about it. What could this be?
I'm sorry Chris, I read this four or five times and I'm not understanding, could you try again please?
If you are telling me the bike is creeping forward with the clutch in, you may have to adjust the free-play in your cable.
There should be about the thickness of a nickel between the lever and the perch Before you feel the clutch start to compress the springs. Or Feel the clutch disengage. What may be happening is the clutch is not fully disengaging or the oil is cold and thick and is dragging.
The CB...
Did you remove any of the springs off the carbs? Are you sure the linkage between the carbs is correct.
If you didn't remove any springs, and the linkage between the carbs is correct, you may have to take the carbs to a shop and let them dis-assemble them completely and clean them with stronger chemicals. Your only other option is replacing them....and that may be pricey..
What usually happens is a bike will quit running and the owner will just park it. As the fuel evaporates you have a
gummy residue left over, what you saw in the carbs and what plugs the passageways and jets.
You may want to consider adding a fuel filter to the fuel line as the inside of the tank may have rusted over the years. You add fuel to the tank and the rust particles start to flow into those carbs you just spent big bucks on cleaning.
There is usually a filter on the intake of the petcock or fuel tap that extends on the inside of the gastank.
This will catch most of the rusty stuff, but you can catch more with an inline filter bettering your odds at keeping the carbs clean.
I'm pretty sure the carbs on that bike are Constant Velocity and work primarily off engine vacuum. I could be wrong, but either way if the throttle itself won't return you shouldn't "Push it down hard" so nothing gets bent or broken.
Sorry I can't give you a better answer Chris, I know you guys are doing your best.
Maybe you and some of your friends could make some money helping the old folks in the neighborhood shovel their driveways. Heck, a few more storms and you could get a snowblower and really clean up! Get it... Really Clean Up! :lol:
What....Not Funny..? :|
O.k.....
Take Care,
Tuck\o/
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Ok cause I like the way its running right now except the oil and smoke problem...
About the kx I figured out that wasnt true haha. Everytime I use a clutch dirt bike I pull the clutch in, click down to first, then push the whole bike forward then let off the clutch lever so its easier...
About the cb, I did remove the springs and it still doesnt work. Im almost positive that it is gummed up somewhere but its really complicating for me cause the whole spring mechanism in the middle. I will think about that idea with the extra fuel filter. Ive opened the petcock before and I cleaned the filter and the tank wasnt bad at all. Basically im 90 percent sure its gummed up.
My friends and I actually planned on a winter business to make some money haha.
Thanks tuck.
Chris
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A Ha! found this! Exactly what is on my haynes manual pg 73. This will probably help solve.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb400t-i-1978-canada_model15772/partslist/E19.html
Chris
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That is the CV type of carb I was talking about. Your throttle will not open and close the the slide and needle.
engine vacuum will draw the slide up.
There are lots of pages designated to the operation and explanation of how these work.
http://www.hondanighthawks.net/carb01.htm
http://www.omnilex.com/public/bmw78/cvcarb.pdf
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Ohh...cause I can push both slides up with my finger easily....So your saying nothing is broken and I should put it on the bike now? I read a lot on those pages but still didnt get the info if the throttle is suppose to be locked while not running? THanks
Chris
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The throttle will move, however the carb needs to be on the bike and the engine running in order to move the slide.
If you cannot turn the piece of the carb where the cables hook up to the twist grip stop and seek professional help.
There is more going on preventing you from operating the carbs. Look in the yellow pages or online for a place that can clean the carbs for you. There should be somewhere around your area. give them a call and tell them whats going on. write down the year and model number of the bike and any numbers and letters on the side of the carb body and have it handy to tell the shop what you have.
Sorry Chris, This is going to have to go to someone who can dis-assemble, clean and re-assemble the carbs so you can bolt them on and go.
Tuck\o/
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But I dont think its something hard to figure out...how much would a shop usually charge for that?
Chris
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I'm sorry Chris, You will have to find a shop and then e-mail or call to find out what their rate is.
If you can't free up the carb with carb cleaner they will have to be taken apart.
You have to be careful because if the diaphragms get damaged they can easily run $100.00 a piece.
Tuck\o/
Here is the first place that popped up on my search:
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/
write them an e-mail and see what they have to say.
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Hey TUck,
thanks for the advice. I will keep trying to soak it to get it to move properly.
About the xr, it has been leaking a giant puddle of gas because the float was stuck...so I tried hitting the carb on the side...the next day it didnt work..so today I took the carb off and opened the bowl...it wasnt really dirty at all...then I got cutips and took the jets out. cleaned it the best I could...there was black residue that rubbed off and it was on the hole that connects to the air box and cylinder...I mean the slide is colored black stock..so idk...I cleaned it and put it all back together ...tomorrow we will see if I fixed it...THen I looked at the bottom of the bike and noticed a drip coming off of the oil empty screw on the bottom of the engine...I went to turn it with my fingers and it turned! It was loose this whole time...so then I tightened it and wiped the oil cap level then saw that the oil level was really low I think...im bad at reading those dipsticks...So tomorrow Im going to empty out all the oil and put I believe 0.6 qts of 10w40...I tried to find how much oil online but I got it for the xr70r year 2002...probably the same..0.6 qts...let me know if you know...
Thanks
Chris
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Update:
I went to do an oil change today and noticed 2 screws on the bottom of the engine...then I could tell which one it was by the screw being a little stripped...But the other one was where it was really loose and dripping...is this the tranny oil or something? could this be the reason why it shifts really loud?
Also when I saw the dripping I tightened that one screw then poured a little 10w30 in the oil dipstick hole...then I started it and it wasnt running good...So today I emptied the oil and poured 0.6 qts of 10w30 I had...then I rode it and it was running really bad...backfire when you accelerate in first then slow down...and it wasnt accelerating right either...what could this be...cause I didnt use 10w40? Let me know.
Thanks CHris
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Also another thing I forgot to say was I was riding it and the engine was hot and you put it into neutral and it would idle for a little then just shut off...I tried the idle screw and it didnt work
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10w40 is for 4 strokes.you want specific 2 stroke gearbox oil or auto tranny fluid.do you mean a screw was in the oil when you drained it?
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Ok so basically I have to drain the oil and put 10w40 instead? 2 stroke gearbox oil? its a 4 stroke? im confused? and nooo I didn't mean that. So is the other screw the tranny oil?
Thanks
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my mistake.thought you meant the kx.
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what bike are you on about?
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this is about the xr70r
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Oh Dear!
I've been trying to get enough wood put up for winter and our internet has been spotty at best. Sorry
Chris... Thank you for jumping in KWhack,
The 70 will use the oil for the engine lubrication as well as the tranny to the best of my knowledge.
It is important to keep the level up! Honda's generally have you hold the dipstick in the opening and check the level as opposed to screwing in the dipstick, and removing it and then checking the level.
There should be hash marks (they look like window screen on the dipstick. you need to keep the oil in those hash marks. The engine and tranny are counting on you!
The black "soot like " stuff is carbon and oil fumes in your intake boot. Most likely the crankcase vent and valve cover is hooked up to the intake to draw the fumes in the engine and burn them instead of just venting to atmosphere and having oil collect and drip on the ground.
Any gases or oil leaking by the valve guides or possibly the rings will carry/collect some oil, when the gas cools the oil condenses (like water vapor) by running the lines to the intake the idea is to burn them before they collect and drip.
[I was riding it and the engine was hot and you put it into neutral and it would idle for a little then just shut off...I tried the idle screw and it didnt work/quote]
Since it's so much cooler now than summer the jetting is "off"
If you haven't messed with the timing most likely the engine is running too lean and needs more fuel.
You may be able to open the fuel screw and get the bike to run better.
Since the 70 is a fourstroke it has a fuel screw, the two strokes have an air screw.
The fuel screw is just as the name implies, adjusts the amount of fuel in the engine for the slow circuit (known as the pilot in two strokes)
Look at the carb, the fuel screw will usually be on the bottomof the carb body on the engine side of the carb.
http://www.thumperfaq.com/fuel_screw.htm
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hey tuck,
that website gave me a lot of info but it still didnt work for me. What is the other screw on the bottom of the engine for then? I filled up the bike to the proper level of oil and still its not running how it did...I dont think its temperature related because it was the same temperature the day after and it ran perfect before... this is really annoying! haha
I adjusted the bike fuel screw (it was on the side of the carburetor bowl)? and I screwed it outwards some and it just started pouring out gas so I quickly screwed it back in. I dont know what is happening...Is it the 10w30? I checked and it has gas in the tank...
THis is my best explanation of what is happening...I kick start the bike and it starts 1 kick no problem and it idles high then gets lower then dies out in a matter of second...Then I try again and keep it going with the throttle revving...when you revv the engine its like a delay..like when im riding in say 1st gear and I accelerate then let go of the gas it still goes for an extra second...whats this?
About the cb carbs that I have off...I separated both carbs from eachother and I found the culprit! The side that has the spring mechanism attached is fine but the other carb that has the lever that connects to the spring mechanism is gummed up...it moves slowly if you push....so basically I have to wd40 and clean the heck out of the joints where it turns....
Thanks
Chris
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Update!
I was in the garage then 2 of my friends came over to just say hi and I asked one of them what you think is wrong with the xr and he said because you put old 10w30 in it, that it didnt lubricate the piston properly and it needed a new piston...I doubted him and kept working...So I took it all apart again trying to redo and see if I did anything wrong...cleaned the fuel filter, took the carb off, put everything back together and tried and it still was the same...So I turned the idle up so it would stay running then I turned the fuel screw a half a turn out and the bike just shut off....then I turned it back to where it was...Started it then turned the fuel screw in more...when I did that the idle was going really high so I turned the idle out i would say about 5 full turns! After this it runs perfect again! the xr is settled now! except what was that other screw that was loose and oil was dripping out?
THanks
Chris
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its been quiet in here...cant believe how long this thread is haha...but today my friend and I got the cb to run partially....we connected his cb750 battery then plugged that in to the wall then started it with starting fluid but it doesnt stay running even when you rev it...it starts for 3 seconds with revving it then it usually dies out...tomorrow im gonna buy a new fuel line that is see through cause its not getting enough gas we concluded...
Chris
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bought a new seethrough gas line from the tank to the carbs....so I fill a LOT of gas in the tank and turn the petcock on and no gas goes through...sometimes only a little line of gas...I tried all the positions on the petcock and the line isnt bent...I took the petcock off and its clean? Is this vacuum or what?
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Your gas tank might be totally gummed up from old fuel etc. !
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Well I unplug the line from the carbs and turn the petcock on and gas flows through perfectly...but then I connect it and turn it on and no gas....Even when trying to crank it, it doesnt give it gas...so im busy taking the carbs back off tomorrow
Chris
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Hey Chris your supposed to be spending time with your family on Thanksgiving!
There's plenty of time to mess with the bikes between the holidays... :lol:
It sounds like the carbs need to be completely taken down and cleaned... the bike will run on a shot of ether and dies after its been burnt. You have the problem isolated so now it just seems to be getting those carbs completely cleaned
Take Care and hope you guys had a good ThanksGiving.
Tuck\o/
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Hey guys,
1. My brother got a Schwinn Whizzer from the 40s!
2. I got the cb400t running by myself!
1. He bought it and I cleaned up the engine for him and unclogged the carbs and took the head off to look at it and it was good. So thats gonna be a project
2. Got It running without starting fluid and it idles! Later that day, my friend came over and he rode it. The one carb to the right leaks out the overflow....and when he rode it he said he lets off the clutch and gives it gas and it automatically is floored...when hes riding he cant pop into 2nd gear? Its like theres no second gear....I remember when I got it I was able to pop it up a lot into like 5th gear... Theres only a 1st gear and neutral right now...So what do you guys think?
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Update: I fixed the shifting to second and third gear etc. because the shifter pedal was a little bent in and the case of the engine was blocking it...so thats fixed but I dont know why he says it floors it when going in first gear
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Hey there Chris,
That Schwinn should be worth some Bucks to the right buyer if it is in good shape.
And as for the Hawk, Check the cable routing on the carbs. Watch the throttle on the carb while you turn the handlebars lock to lock. Sometimes the throttle cable will get pulled as you turn the handlebars.
Also check the choke cable. (doesn't the choke also open the throttle a tad when you pull the choke? )
Check the fuel needle on the carb that is leaking, maybe something not allowing it to shut off fuel when the bowl is full. Look at the carb diagram closely, is there an "O" ring that holds the seat for the fuel needle in place? I have seen these get brittle crack and fail. This allows fuel to flow in the carb bowl around the needle.
There is nothing connecting the throttle and the transmission, so the revving between shifting is odd...Hhhmm..
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
My brother still has got to work on the whizzer but I helped him with the engine...it gets spark cause it shocked me haha
Tomorrow I will be sure to check the cables on the hawk...I am not sure if the choke opens the throttle a little but I could imagine so that it does...I am not sure if there is an o ring but the carbs were very dirty and I got the throttle slides to move up and down smoothly ... I fixed the shifting where it only got into first...the shifter pedal was bent a tad...buuuut...
Let me try to explain this better...Ok so my friend pulls in the clutch and taps into first...when he tries to ride first gear he lets off the clutch while giving it gas and the bike just floors it without giving it full throttle...what do you think this is?
THanks Tuck
Chris
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Hey guys,
I checked the cables on the hawk and they seem to be fine...I adjusted the clutch so it has only about the size of a dime freeplay so I have to wait for my friend to come over and see if that fixed the problem cause I cant ride it cause its too big for me! haha
Still waiting on an answer on the question I asked before if any of you know...
About the yz....Im trying to get the rear brake foot pedal to work again...Everything is disconnected from it including brake cylinder and all cotter pins and washers etc....I have a vice grip on the pedal and I can move it up and down but it does not return and is very hard to move...I tried a ton of solvents to loosen it and none worked...I tried drilling it out and buying a new one but I dont have a big enough drill bit...I have to ask one of my friends...What could this be...rust inside or corrosion?
Chris
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Hey Chris,
I didn't see your text until it was late, How are you doing Buddy?
It is hard to believe that brake assembly is not budging, but I have seen stranger things.
There must be someone your Mom & Dad know that can give you a hand when you get stuck. You would be amazed at how much nicer it is to work on something when you have the right tools for the job.
I am gonna go back to work starting next monday, I have to wait to have my left side repaired.
The bills have started to pile up and I'll get have to get them payed before getting some more replacement work done! :-D
Tuck\o/
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Hey TUck,
Im doing good and hopefully you are too.
The pedal will not budge one bit outwards...My brother tried helping but no luck...My brother said that we have a ton of other big drill bits in a box in the garage so Im gonna go searching later....
I hope the next surgery goes well and dont let me bother you!
Im going to also check the jetting on my yz today cause I remember I wrote it down in the kx clymer! I dont think I updated the kx jets that I wrote down in the book with the ones in it now so I have to sort that out too...The thing is I am loving how my yz is running right now but the oil shooting out and dripping on the garage floor and swingarm is a pain...I want to keep the bike how it is running now but I gotta change the jets when I sell the motorcycle cause its obviously running wayyy wayyy too rich...also a ton of white smoke from the yz...
Also do any of you on this website do a top end even if the bike is running?
Hope everything goes well Tuck!
Thanks
Chris
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Thanks Chris,
There are several books out there that will help you sort out the basics of working on your motorcycles.
Unfortunately you probably won't to be able to take any mechanical classes until high school.
Go back through the thread and re-read it, go to the fuel part of your clymer and actually read through it.
I know it is not the most exciting reading but it will have the answers you need to get the bike's jetting sorted out.
Don't worry about bothering me! I just may not be able to get back to you quickly.
Write down the changes you make and only change one thing at a time. Record the results and make your next change. You will see a pattern and recognize what the bike needs after a while.
You really do have to be committed if you want to be good not only at tuning your bikes, but anything you put you hands to. Get a-hold of 1989kawasaki, he can tell you how long it has taken him to get where he is. And maybe what has been a help to him and what has been a waste of time.
Something you are gonna also have to remember is that as the weather changes you will also have to change your jetting. Since I don't ride in the winter here I only have spring / summer and fall. I usually change up my jetting three times a year. When I have the bike apart for cleaning I just swap out the jets.
Anyway, I hope you got the yz running better.
Take Care Buddy, and remember this is not something you usually pick up over night.
Patience Young Skywalker! :-D
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
Im in high school already haha :p.....I plan on going to college to be a mechanic
I have been writing all the changes I have done...
I got the yz running kind of better at least I think haha! I cant tell anymore haha. It doesnt shoot out oil anymore but theres a lot of oil that drools out and goes all onto the swingarm and floor...
Thanks
Chris
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Also with the kx, Its not a problem or anything major and doesnt really matter but when the kx is totally warmed up and its idling and you give it a tiny tiny bit of throttle then let go it stays at that level then soon goes back after id say 10 seconds...is this the adjustment on top of the carb with the slide or does the cable need to be lubed or something?
Thanks
Chris
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Hey Chris,
If the Idle "Hangs" and then Idles down it would lead me to believe there is either an air leak or you are too lean.
(usually on the pilot) as this happens when you blip the throttle. With very few adjustments on that carb you will probably have to tinker with it all the time to keep it spot on.
Hope you had a great Christmas. Happy New Year and Hope you get to pick up a new batch of Projects to work on.
Tuck\o/
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Hey Tuck,
I will go ahead and tighten all the bolts tomorrow. Once in a while after I ride the kx, theres a little tiny drip that comes off the exhaust but its nothing. So I wouldnt believe its lean, Am I right? I love how its running and riding except the smoke everywhere in the the air that it creates haha but you told me its the oil mix I use. The powerband is still awesome! I cant get it out of 3rd gear in my driveway that is pretty long! WHats the adjustment on the top of the carb thats brass? I had a great Christmas and I hope you did too. I got a new bicycle!
With the cb400, I bought the battery and new spark plugs. I got it all on the bike and it runs good. The thing ehy I put new plugs in and tried adjusting the clutch cable is because when my friend rode it, he pulls in the clutch, clicks down to 1st gear, gives it full throttle gas, lets go of the clutch, and it has barely any power at all even with full throttle. But when it gets going it is good. So I was running it for a little then pulled the new plugs to look at them and the left cylinder plug was totally charcoal pure black and the right cylinder one looked new but a little wet. Also if you leave the gas on without running it for id say 10 mins there would be gas coming out the right side carb overflow valve. What could this be now...
Also I helped my friend out by working on his pocket bike to get it faster. He bought it new and it didnt run good cause he by accident put gas oil mix instead of regular gas..also it didnt go as fast as it should with a lot of cutting out. So I took it from him to fix it for him and I first looked at the fuel filter which was all blue of oil and really bad! So I just put a new fuel line with no filter...Then I looked for governors cause the bike came new as epa certified...So there was a governor in the airbox that let half air in. Then I took the carb off and noticed that the throttle went up halfway. I looked it up and they make the new models with the slide as a governor so I had to cut it and smoothen it out to let it open all the way...it now works! Im learning haha!
Hope to solve the cb problem.
Happy New Year,
Chris
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Hey Chris,
The oil drip and smoke from your KX is one of three things I can think of without having the bike.
If you are riding the bike under half throttle most of the time, the unburnt oil from the combustion process is collecting (or condensing) in the pipe and getting blown out the exhaust. One reason the oil is not being consumed is the quality of the oil and the 32:1 premix ratio.
Check your Clymer for the Brass thing on the top of the carb. it will tell you what it's for . I'm guessing it's there to adjust slack in the cable, is it Knurled?. when you twist it it should unscrew from the top of the carb and if there is no slack in the cable it will start to raise the slide and Idle speed.
The carb on the cb 400 that keeps flooding either is just set too high or more likely is leaking fuel past the needle valve.
One cause of the black sooty plug may be the oil leaking past the valve guide and being drawn into the combustion chamber or poor ring seal, oil is being drawn up from the crankcase or not being kept in check by the oil control rings on the piston. There are some tests that can be done at a dealer to help trouble shoot the issue by using a vacuum or leak down test similar to checking a two stroke for an air leak.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_cylinder_leakdown_tester/viewall.html
This is basically the same for a bike or lawnmower engine or auto.
Then you said "when my friend rode it, he pulls in the clutch, clicks down to 1st gear, gives it full throttle gas, lets go of the clutch, and it has barely any power at all even with full throttle."
If the bike is screaming at full throttle and not moving in first gear the clutch is fried.
This bike is going to either wait until you gain some more experience or sold as a parts bike.
The carbs sound like they need to be re-built and the engine and clutch may need to be re- built from what it sounds like. This is not gonna be an easy fix.
Best of Luck Buddy and Hope you have a Happy and prosperous 2012!
Tuck\o/
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Tuck,
I tightened the kx bolts today and they werent loose but could have used the extra tightness. I ride the bike mostly in 3/4 throttle I would say. I will check the clymer tomorrow for the brass adjuster on the carb.
About the cb, I don't think you understood what I was saying on what happens. When you give it full throttle and let go of the clutch, it moves but has barely any power. My friend was talking to his motorcycle mechanic and he thinks it has nothing to with the clutch and it is just that the carbs arent synced with eachother...when I was cleaning the jets I didnt think there was differences with the sizes of the jets so do you think they would be different? I was gonna open the clutch cover tomorrow but now it might not be that im thinking? THere is a rip in the one carb boot to the right that connects to the cylinder but I put some glue on it thinking it wasnt a big deal. I dont think the rip in it went all the way through...Whadya think?
Take Care,
Chris
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Sorry Buddy I guess I would have to see what your talking about.
If you give the bike full throttle the engine should be screaming, and then let out the clutch?..
You would have to consult a service manual(clymer etc.) to see if the jets in the carbs are the same or not. They may not be.
The XR600 I sold had two carbs and they did have different jets in the carbs. there was a primary and secondary set-up. One Carb ran the bike until a certain point in the linkage opened the other carb to add more fuel when needed. This did two things, keeps the air speed up to help fill the cyl. , good throttle response and also helped keep the fuel mileage decent as long as you didn't keep it pinned.
I think you either need that service manual or a clymer to be able to set up those carbs.
If there is an air leak in the boot you will lean out the mixture and draw unfiltered air in your engine. Both Bad..
Sorry I don't have any better Idea.
Take Care,
Tuck\o/
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Thats correct...Pull in the clutch then click down to first and give full throttle then let go of the clutch and it has barely any power but it still does move. I was looking in the manual today and they do have a section for carb syncing. I will look if theres different jets but I would assume not...This bike im basically trying to put as less of money into it as possible then sell it for more money for a car (1967-72 chevelle!!)
I might get a 4 gauge carb synchronizer from a guy in trade for 2 silver half dollars. Ive located where the brass adjusters go into already.
Thanks
Chris
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Also I was wondering if I decided to do this in the summer maybe to change the carb on the kx to bigger. What would fit even with changing the boot or reeds or something? Is there a way to put like a kx125 carb on there haha? WHats the biggest possible carb?
Chris
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Is the kx60 carb I have 26mm or 28mm? cause would I be able to buy just any kind of 26 or 28mm carb off ebay from no specific bike then jet it? Or would a kx85/cr85/yz85 carb fit on the bike?
Chris