KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: jbehunin on February 10, 2011, 02:27:43 PM
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I was planning on doing a complete bottom end redo, complete with all new bearings, seals...etc..
But I have a problem.... I cannot get the clutch nut to budge. I read in my clymer manual that it is to be torqued at @75 ft pounds. I swear the person who had it before me used an impact wrench on it. I used my torque wrench as better leverage and put it on 180 ft pounds and the things clicked!!! So I know its on there freaking tight!!!
Anyone have any ideas how to get this thing to budge?
I was thinking of buying an impact wrench (i need one anyways) to try to get it to budge, but the nut looks like it is starting to round the edges... :?
I have already broke a socket trying to get it to move... :cry:
I also thought about cutting it off as well!!!
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A good impact wrench and a 6 point socket should do it.
You would be surprised how efficient a good impact wrench is.
They are so good that once in a while this can happen.
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu165/oemcycle/BLOWNSOCKET.jpg)
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I was planning on doing a complete bottom end redo, complete with all new bearings,
the nut looks like it is starting to round the edges... :?
OH NOOO!!!
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It's not a bad thing, it's really very exciting :-o
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I had a K5 clutch basket nut i couldn't get off and i had to damage the inner hub to get it loose. :-D
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I bet that was exciting too :-D
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I dont want to get too excited and break anything!!!
I will need a new nut, but I dont want to have to buy a new clutch hub....
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If all else fails you can take a Dremel tool to it or a die grinder.
Most of the time you don't need to cut all the way through the nut.
The heat and stress relieve usually loosens it up nicely.
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If all else fails you can take a Dremel tool to it or a die grinder.
Most of the time you don't need to cut all the way through the nut.
The heat and stress relieve usually loosens it up nicely.
i will do that as a last resort. I dont want to damage the shaft, and knowing me, I will!!!
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Just go slow and easy.
Only cut about 3/4 of the way through.
Then, take a chisel and hit the nut counterclockwise.
Sometimes that breaks it loose enough to allow you to use the socket.
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I have run into them red loctited by previos owners.. Takes some heat to do away with it... And a impact gun is ur friend on dissasembly. Easyer on parts..
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i use an impact wrench my self. but when i didn't have 1 i would put a normal socket and wrench on the nut. you need a freind to hold the socket on the nut. then use a hammer and hit the end ot the wrench and it will give the same effect as an impact wrench. it is a good idea to have the bottom end in the frame as it does a good job of holding it still. needless to say you need to be carful not to damage anything or your freind. this does work i have used it on several flywheel and clutch nuts. i am sure 10 or 20 impacts will have it off
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just do yourself a favor, follow Sandblasters instructions with dremel before you do anymore damage. then go to autoparts store and buy a cheap electric impact gun with some impact sockets and work on it the proper way. It will save you time, money, and headaches. An impact is a must for certain things on your bike. I think I got mine at Autozone for $ 60....A great alternative if you dont have an air setup. Jonny5's method is what i used back in the day and have ended up rounded many nuts and busted many knuckles - no good and bad for your temper...lol
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Well, I tried the impact wrench, and it failed. This impact wrench is capable of 250 ft pounds.....
So, I have no choice now but to cut the d**n thing off!!!!! :x :x :x
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Sounds like some numbskull used loctite and had the incredible hulk tighten it on so it would withstand a nuclear blast....Im surprised impact wouldn't do it. was it because the nut is too rounded off already or is it really that tight ??
were you using an impact socket ? those fit tighter have thicker walls and wont blow apart like Sandblasters picture
If all else fails, the dremel and a steady hand is the solution. use a small cutoff wheel to fit in that tight spot. have patience and dont try to bite too much at a time with dremel tool.
I always make sure there is a good working dremel tool in my garage. It is a must have...
P.S. - dont forget a little heat if you suspect there is loctite
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Well, I got the nut off....finally!
I had to cut it off, but thankfully it came off rather easy once I cut through it.
Got the complete bottom end all torn down and almost all the bearings out.
As I was using my case splitter to push out the crank, the main crank bearing stuck to the crank. Is there a special way to get this to come off?
Plus I am thinking of having the cylinder replated. What kind of piston should I use? I heard that stock kawasaki pistons are good, but are there other brands that will work with a freshly replated cylinder?
Also, as I was cleaning it off, the solvent I was using took off the paint of the engine. I guess the previous owner painted the motor with gray paint. Is there a special engine paint out there, or can I use engine paint to repaint it with?
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As I was using my case splitter to push out the crank, the main crank bearing stuck to the crank. Is there a special way to get this to come off?
That is a good sign! :-D
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As I was using my case splitter to push out the crank, the main crank bearing stuck to the crank. Is there a special way to get this to come off?
That is a good sign! :-D
are you sure doug.
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It may or may not be a bad thing.
If it came out really easy then the case could be out of round and should be repaired or replaced.
If it came out hard then it is probably ok (Probably).
You will need to carefully mic it to be certain.
To get the bearing off the shaft you can use a bearing splitter like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/LARGE-BEARING-SEPERATOR-PULLER-REMOVAL-SPLITTER-TOOL-/290526777943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a4bed257 (http://cgi.ebay.com/LARGE-BEARING-SEPERATOR-PULLER-REMOVAL-SPLITTER-TOOL-/290526777943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a4bed257)
You need to buy the correct size, but a lot of these fit a wide range of bearings.
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As I was using my case splitter to push out the crank, the main crank bearing stuck to the crank. Is there a special way to get this to come off?
That is a good sign! :-D
are you sure doug.
Shows signs that the crank journals are most likely good if the bearings stay with the crank instead of the cases. I have been told that on a good set of cases & crank, the bearings will stay with the crank. With that said, it does not necessarily mean either measures in specs but...............
DoldGuy
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True, an argument can be made either way.
I have seen it true in both cases.
So, the moral of the story is, "measure it and see if it is in tolerance".
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I have already bought all new seals, bearings, gaskets...etc to do the complete bottom end.
I wanted to replace everything.
But now I have a big problem!!!
Whoever put this bike together before, really F'ed it all up!!
In one of my earlier posts, I made mention that the clutch nut was on way tight, well, this guy put in so much red locktite on everything, nearly all the bolts in the cases have either stripped or sheered off.
One even broke one of the case halves!!!
Now I need to get new cases... Anyone have any ideas????
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Are you sure you want to buy new cases? A visit with a reputable local machinist may give you another take on the problem.
Cases are expensive, labor should be much less.
Just my $.02
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[quotethis guy put in so much red locktite on everything, nearly all the bolts in the cases have either stripped or sheered off.[/quote]
That sucks
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good news!!!
I have a buddy who owns a cycle salvage shop. I gave him a call and he has the cases to a KX 500. I went to his house this afternoon and picked them up!!
So now I have new cases and I am happy!!!
But I still need info on where to go for cylinder replating????
And also what kind of piston can I use in a freshly replated cylinder?
also, what is a windowed piston and what are the advantages of them?
Where can I get a windowed piston?
Thanks!!!
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sounds like you made out big time on the cases...make sure they are in good order. Mic em like others have stated already and look close for cracks. Whoever you choose for plating, make sure you send them your piston for matching. I would also have agood machinist look at you other cases. Would be nice to have a spare set
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good news!!!
I have a buddy who owns a cycle salvage shop. I gave him a call and he has the cases to a KX 500. I went to his house this afternoon and picked them up!!
So now I have new cases and I am happy!!!
But I still need info on where to go for cylinder replating????
And also what kind of piston can I use in a freshly replated cylinder?
also, what is a windowed piston and what are the advantages of them?
Where can I get a windowed piston?
Thanks!!!
http://mt-llc.com/
http://www.powersealusa.com/