KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: delphipro5 on November 17, 2010, 12:01:53 AM
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O.K. here we go
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0757_1_1.jpg)
THINGS ON THIS BUILD HAVE CHANGED A LOT SINCE THIS FIRST POST! READ ON. - (ADDED 02/25/11)
I am in the process of rebuilding my 2000 KX500 and would like some input if yall wanna be a part of it. It's in excellent shape and is worthy of having some nice stuff done. i was thinking about going all pro curcuit on this build and just send them my forks, shock,engine, and carb. to them to have them do as much work as they could to them. have a pro curcuit full mod. but they don't seem that willing to take it on, and i don't like having to send everything to Cali. to have it done. I do not trust anyone when it comes to packing and shipping! I live in Maine and Factory connection's head office is in NH which is like a few hours away so now I'm thinking have them do my suspension, and have my Carb. modded by Dick's racing they look like they really know what they are doing, but thier in Cali.. and I am not sure about the engine itself, ethier send it to pro curcuit or Dick's, or maybe do it myself or a local shop I can trust to do it right! any way that is all I think I need to have sent out, the rest I can do myself. but I am not quite sure what it is for carb. and engine mods. I really need to get done? I don't think I want to big bore it but I want a wiesco piston put in, would these places do things like that? like putting Vforce reeds in or use thier own stuff? What would they do with the engine i could not do myself? I already have a pro moto billet kickstand, sunline shift lever, D.I.D. ERV3 chain, renthal twin ring and chainwheel, pro curcuit sparky(pipe coming soon), going to get a magura hydro. clutch, rebuild the clutch with barnett plates set, get a steathy flywheel weight(woods riding), scaryfastracing intake thingy (if needed), replace ALL worn bearings with new, Vforce reed kit. I AM ONLY DOING THIS ONCE! So I want to go ALL OUT! Any advice would be cool, I am getting renthal twinwall handle bars soon and am wondering how to pick out a bend for this bike?? any advice?? thinking the windham. Also, FASST company makes these vibration damper inserts for the handlebars? think they work?(this thing is a vibrator) What else oh yea' I am thinking about having the triple trees polished, they are that stock cast aluminum right now except for the machined surfaces and in spots they did not even fully deburr the tree!!(around the bolt area's). I would like a shop to polish them to a ultra shiney surface before reassembly, What do you think? I actually would like to get as much of the dull grey cast aluminum polished as I could! imagine what the cylinder and head would look like polished!! any way that is it for now. P.S how do you put pics in your posts??? This is what the guys at Dick's racing suggested I do:
I suggest:
fork/shock mods - 610+parts
fork/shock black dlc coating - 650+r&r+shiping
rubber mounted triple clamps - 475
carb mods - 350
cylinder porting - 300
power valve cleaning - 175
intake system - 175
oversize front brake - 295
fatbars/handguards - 250
exhaust system - 400
What do you think?
ALSO I would like to get the compression release mod i heard about and the kips bolt everyone is talkin about. ani ideas on where to get it? i am also threading this on TT too. i will have pics. soon. thankx, P. :evil:
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I see you made it over here. Welcome. I feel with a good repair manual you can do most of this yourself. Depending on how many hours is on the engine you may need to do more than clean the power valve, also you can do a lot of mods to the engine to get power without porting the cylinder. Furthermore, you want to keep the plated bore in the cylinder. Search the engine modifications forum and find a wealth of knowledge.
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Welcome to KXRiders!!!!
As far as cleaning the engine, try this... Makes parts look amazing! Read about soda blasting.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,8161.0.html
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I would have the head cut before porting. Also what kind of riding are you doing.
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I have not heard anything good from the magura clutch for the 500. I have a MSR pro raptor lever and it made a ton of difference. It has three spots to put the cable end to change the pull ratio. Worth the money. PC 2 pipe makes the most power with the 304 silencer, it is something that is much debated here. It comes down to rider. Compression release is a decent mod to do to and the kips bolt mod. Contact JFAB and he can hook you up with that stuff. I would rather buy a Sudco 39mm PWK for $250 than send it out for a $350 mod. I run the 41mm and it is awesome, mileage suffers a little. The V force 2 still out flows the new V force 3. But the 2 has screws on the petals and some find that as a minus. Either is a major improvement over stock. Some like the RAD valve from Boyeson. Dyno numbers still show the V force 2 as the better choice for overall power. The engine is a very easy engine to work on. It is more fun to build it yourself, buut if you are uncertain of your skills, best to have someone else do it. Pro Circuit would do a great job building your engine but there a lot very talented engine builders on this site that would do it and charge a lot less and be every bit as good if not better. Good luck and keep us posted! and post some pics of the build!
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Thank you alward25, awsomme info back gotta say, GOOD SITE! SO what bad have you heard about the magu hydro?? I have heard the stock pipe does a pretty good job all on it's own, but as you said debateable. Jfab does the Kips bolt mod? what does that entail exactly? the comp. re. that weichman does looks so smooth comparably to the Jfab one, and I don't need it remote. Button on the head is adequate, just a looks thing. on the carb. and engine I am still figuring what I really need done! I need some direction! head cut? windowed piston? porting? boring? jetting? I am going to say it, and I'm not happy about it, but these thing are still a mystery to me and I have been a bike rider for years(what is wrong with me?). I am over going all PC with this already. I think fac. conn. will do the forks, shock though. pics soon more to come I have been very busy latley @ work so have not had time for the build. SOON
all of you have already made a differance in this build, keep it up! P.S. it's kinda kool it's the millenium model (2000) I have. Maybe I should theme the build to that somehow? (http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0833_1_1.jpg)
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I just want to say that the type of riding I am doing is mostly trails type north woods recreation riding(live in Maine), twisty luggy in the woods and all out straight shots on the fire roads. For me the stock motor is enough, I just want to do improvements to the eng.carb. that are solid mechanical improvements, I do not want to gain anything like MORE speed or HP, by having to tear down my engine completly every season because it's modded to the max!! I am looking for a happy medium between power and reliability. I just want to smoothe it out and let it breathe, I want to have a solid, reliable, POWERFULL mill. Without haveing to check for engine damage after every ride! This thing will only ever drink from the local gas pumps too! It's not like i'm runnin racing fuel! If there is any shop out there that want's to take it on let me know, I would like to have the work done professionally and have some parts put in while it's open, Also I would like to buy a completly rebuilt engine for this bike if any are available. What about service honda do they sell the refurbed KX500 engine?
Many more q&a's to come so I hope you guys are still with me here!
Let me also say, I have learned a lot since my first post and am now working on a more level head. BUT not too much more! the DLC coating I may still get on some parts!
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Me personally, I think you will be spanding WAY too much money with all the shock fork dlc coating mod. The KX500's suspension is late 1990's as far as technology and effectiveness. However I do agree on the INTERNAL suspension upgrades, that money WELL spent ! Good luck, and enjoy !
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Going to get started on the engine rebuild soon hopefully :| this is what I got figured so far, To Do:
Complete engine rebuild/cleaning(Bearings,seals,ect.)
Crank trued/balanced
Weichman treatment(Comp. Re./head polishing and cut gasket surface)
Kips bolt mod.
Thick head gasket
Double base gasket
Barnett clutch kit
Flywheel weight-(optional)
Reed spacer-(optional)
v-force2 reed kit
Dick?s carb. Rebuild-(stock 39mm pwk, reworked)
New ignition-any suggestions???
Wiesco piston-windowed?
cylinder replated
missing anything? I would like to keep the cylinder stock bore. any real important porting or polishing I should do?
Is it o.k. for me to run just 91 octaine pump gas in this thing??(premixed of course!!32-1!)
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if you are doing a complete rebuild spend the extra money on plating.
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Consider installing the reed spacer.
I installed it with a rad valve and it really smoothed out the power delivery.
Great for trail riding.
I modified my kips stop bolt myself by drilling the back side and JB welding a 1/8" nut with the hex rounded off. Length at .52 inches (13.2mm).
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Still, to this day no one has filled me in on what this KIPS Bolt mod is or the reasoning behind it! I know the mod has something to do with altering the way the valves turn by machining the operating rod in some way but that is all I have been able to decipher from it. Everyone just says you need to do it. :roll:
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There is a long thread on the subject and it can be accomplished in several ways, but basically there is a cover bolt (black allen head) on the left side of the head that can be lengthened to stop the kips shaft from fully closing and in turn keep the kips sub-valves from over-closing and reducing compression at low rpms. It is theorized that this over-closing was purposely designed by Kawasaki as a compression release for easier kick-starting.
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I found this while reading thru threads all over and it is about DETUNING a 500.. NOW I know what you are thinking, who would want to detune!! BUT, I can glean a little knowledege I think from some of this!-- I post it here so hopefully you guys will pick it apart a little with me. so here goes, and i quote
"There are a few things you can do to make the bike more enjoyable and work better for you. I have riden, tuned, and modified KX500's for years, if you look at my avatar you will see a KX500 in what seems to be a 250 chasis (it's actually a custom frame) so I know a little about the bike. First the bike isn't jetted properly from the factory and has the wrong needle . Let me know your elevation and outside air temp and I can get you really close on jetting which will actually give you more power but will smooth the rough transition from low to the midrange. Next, I would retard the timing. There are 3 marks inside your mag cover on the stator. Loosen the three phillip screws and turn the stator counter clockwise to the last mark on the right. The 89 has a really small flywheel, so I would send it off to moose or get a add on one from stealthy off road products. This will also smooth the power and add much needed lugability for trail riding. Then I would change out the stock aluminum clutch plates to moose racing steel plates. This will do two things...it will add fly wheel effect, do to the heavier rotating mass on the clutch and it will add to the clutch life itself. Again this will smooth out the power. I would then go to the optional thick head gasket. This will reduce the compression and again reduce the hit in the powerband. You could take it a step further and put in an extra base gasket, this will again reduce compression slightly and raise the port timing, it will again slow or smooth the transition of power and give you some top end over rev. Next, I would chuck the stock pipe and buy a FMF Gnarly pipe. Before installing the pipe there is a crush ring that goes up into the cylinder...buy four of them and install them with the pipe. This is one of the best mods you can make to the bike. You'll have stronger power but it will be smoother and more controllable than you would ever believe! If your still not where you want to be...then cylinder porting is next. Through porting an experienced engine tuner can create just about any type of power delivery you would like. MY motor on my KX500 is fully built and tuned. It puts out over 70 h.p. on the dyno at the rear wheel at fairly high elevation and is the best trail bike I have ever rid'in. The power delivery is much smoother than even my CRF450 I just sold....and way way way more power! The KX500 when properly set up tuned is just about the best all around do it all bike there ever was!"-end quote..
SO What do ya' think any sense here?
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In all your posts you never mention doing anything to the bottom end, you do mention serious vibration, and while they do vibrate, they will vibrate much more with a crank that is not true. If your going to stick all this money into it the first place I'd start is the motor. Pull it down, install new bearings and seals, install the wiesco windowed piston, the comp release with the head cut, V force reeds, and if you want bottome end then install the reed spacer. I like the 38mm air striker carb bored to 40mm or maybe the 44 Lectron, the Lectron I've not used as a trail bike so I'm not sure exactly how I feel about it, its awesome on a competition bike. Like said earlier stay away from the Magura Hydraulic, I've seen bad things happen when you least suspect it. Suspension mods would be good, but remember even though your bike is a 2000 it has 1995 technology, you might be better off updating to something newer.
OK reread, you did mention complete engine treatment, make sure that includes a crank alignment and that it is installed by somebody that knows what they are doing, i've seen many a true crank become un-trued by somebody that didn't know what they are doing.
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I have the VForce 2, no spacer and mine runs great on or off the trail. Plenty of bottom end and smooth transition. I would try the VForce mod and see if you need the spacer before you buy it.
I also woods ride the stock pwk 39. Jetted right it is very consistent and runs clean all the way through. Very predictable with stock throttle cam. No plug fouling, even with the cheapest b8es plugs. 93 pump gas, Bel Ray H1R, no ping.
The compression release is the bomb. I dont have the head cut mod. Starts easily 1st or second kick.
I think the window piston is a worthwhile mod. I also think having the crank trued by someone who has the equipment and experience will make a big difference. My bike runs very smooth. No disappearing bolts. No broken pipe mounts. No tingling fingers, even with 7/8 bars.
You might consider putting your money into the core and then modify the periphials (sp?) if you need more. You will save bucks for all the fuel these things burn! My 2 cents.
Fitz
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I would also try the stock flywheel before you add a weight.
Fitz
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SO as I have said, 91 oct. fuel is all that is available from the pumps in my area so I do not wan't to mod this engine for race gas.
Where can you get race gas? like the belray H1R mentioned? 91 is a little low, any suggestions on how I can spice it up a little?
What about octane boost like lucas oil has for cars?
Just got my v-force2 kit today. When I put this back together I will try without the spacer first.
I have ridden it all last season with the stock flywheel, interested to see how it feels with a weight.
Keeping the stock 39 PWK, but I might have it modded slightly/jetted correctly.
NEED TO FIND: Local shop that can do the Bottom end/ crank balance. ( need to send out cylinder for plateing too)
I keep my post on the engine updated so you may see the list grow and change.
ALSO, What makes this bikes suspension so archaich? it's got a linkage shock(some KTM's still don't)?
and are the forks really that much different to now?(aside from the sff models)
WHY can't you just buy a brand new shock and forks 2010 tech, in the same sizes as the stocks and replace them?(trust me I know the cost involved with doing something like that!), BUT I have not even seen it as an option, i'm just saying......... I mean, that is basically the idea behind the AF and SF mod's is to update the erginomics and suspension but keep the power.
I'm just asking what makes this suspension so outdated?
No I am not going magura anymore.
let's see anything else.-nope
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SO.... Anyone want to fill me in on where I should have the bottom end work, crank balancing, and cylinder plateing done?? Need a good shop to do these things. I should have the engine out soon, any takers??
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You can buy VP fuel from most race shops, but it is expensive. Last year when I was burning VP I frequently burned through $100 or more in a day of riding. This year I switched to just running 100LL av gas. I have no idea how the availability would be in your area, but if you have a pilot buddy, it might be an option.
Here is an octane booster that actually sounds very promising:
http://torcoracefuel.net/pro-accelerator.html
Most of the typical service station octane boosts don't do much. I've never tried the Torco Accelerator but have read some independent reviews that say it really does work. Just don't mix it with the fuel ahead of time. It has an extremely short life when mixed. Only mix up what you will burn that day. Apparently after as little as 24hrs, the higher octane component has evaporated out and you are back to the same octane you started with.
Belray H1R is a two stroke oil, not a fuel. It will be available from every motorcycle shop.
And just in case you didn't come across it in your searches, here is my rebuild from last winter. I did a lot of the things you are looking to do.
I didn't do anything to the suspension other than new fluid and fork seals. I didn't consider myself to ride at a high enough level really benefit from big suspension mods. I thought it would just be wasted on me with my ability. But then I bought a Gasgas with Ohlins at both ends, and wow... I can't believe how plush and nice handling that bike is. If I had money to burn, I would try to get a set of Ohlins forks and shock for my KX.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7066.0.html
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You can buy VP fuel from most race shops, but it is expensive. Last year when I was burning VP I frequently burned through $100 or more in a day of riding. This year I switched to just running 100LL av gas. I have no idea how the availability would be in your area, but if you have a pilot buddy, it might be an option.
Here is an octane booster that actually sounds very promising:
http://torcoracefuel.net/pro-accelerator.html
Most of the typical service station octane boosts don't do much. I've never tried the Torco Accelerator but have read some independent reviews that say it really does work. Just don't mix it with the fuel ahead of time. It has an extremely short life when mixed. Only mix up what you will burn that day. Apparently after as little as 24hrs, the higher octane component has evaporated out and you are back to the same octane you started with.
Belray H1R is a two stroke oil, not a fuel. It will be available from every motorcycle shop.
And just in case you didn't come across it in your searches, here is my rebuild from last winter. I did a lot of the things you are looking to do.
I didn't do anything to the suspension other than new fluid and fork seals. I didn't consider myself to ride at a high enough level really benefit from big suspension mods. I thought it would just be wasted on me with my ability. But then I bought a Gasgas with Ohlins at both ends, and wow... I can't believe how plush and nice handling that bike is. If I had money to burn, I would try to get a set of Ohlins forks and shock for my KX.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7066.0.html
O.K. Egg on me, I thought he was talking about a mix of pump gas(93) and some type of racing fuel(belray h1r)! I have never used belray anything, have ran golden spectro my entire life and never had a problem. I just think 91 is too low and I want to find a mix I could use.
As far as the susp. mods, once you have sat on a bike properly set up for you with top line susp. components there is NO going back!
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What is 100LL exactly? I know it is aviation fuel, but what does 100LL mean? how would I run it, just regular mix 32-1? could I cut pump gas with it? I have a lot of fairly small airports around me, maybe I could get it there somehow.
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ALSO, What makes this bikes suspension so archaich? it's got a linkage shock(some KTM's still don't)?
and are the forks really that much different to now?(aside from the sff models)
WHY can't you just buy a brand new shock and forks 2010 tech, in the same sizes as the stocks and replace them?(trust me I know the cost involved with doing something like that!), BUT I have not even seen it as an option, i'm just saying......... I mean, that is basically the idea behind the AF and SF mod's is to update the erginomics and suspension but keep the power.
I'm just asking what makes this suspension so outdated?
No I am not going magura anymore.
let's see anything else.-nope
changes are made to improve action on both the forks and shock, and I'm sure there are many that will debate this issue and thats fine. You could buy some Ohlins stuff, but that would be very pricey. as an alternative you could use a newer shock, however the newer shock is longer than the stocker so you could swap the clevis or mod the newer shock clevis, I've done it both ways and they work equally well. the forks are another story, you can buy newer forks with the triples and swap them easy enough, however the neck on lets say a newer 450 is at a different angle and so if you were to use them, your rake would be greater, the way around this is to have a set of triples made for the 500 with the larger tube size, I think sombody looked into this and it was about $900, so yeah you can do it the question is at what cost.
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What is 100LL exactly? I know it is aviation fuel, but what does 100LL mean? how would I run it, just regular mix 32-1? could I cut pump gas with it? I have a lot of fairly small airports around me, maybe I could get it there somehow.
100 octane low lead. It also keeps longer than pump gas since it does not have any ethynol in it. You could cut it, I would run it straight.
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Alward,
Do you run 100LL? If so, what oil in what mixture? I am assuming that that the additives dont harm the fuel system??
Fitz
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I run 100LL mixed 50:1 with Belray MC1. So far, no issues. I think I went through about 50 gallons this year.
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I'm on 100LL also.
Do your research. There are no additives in it from the refinery. It's up to the airport to add anything they feel the need to (deice additives). Here In southern California. The airport doesn't add them. N you can ask
I run h1r at 40:1.
Watch it though because of it's low specific gravity it will change your jetting..
AND SOME OILS WILL SEPPARATE IN IT. Castor 927 comes to mind
100ll also ends up being approximate 106 oct to car bike standard of testing. Also has about halfthe lead as say vp C12
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As long as h1r will not seperate thats all I need to know. I've ofter wondered why more guys dont use this option if it is viable??
Thanks
Fitz
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I had asked the question earlier on a different forum and it spun out of control. I've copied and pasted a few of the replies from a guy that worked in a fuel refinery, and also races boats.
It also uses totally different parameters for determing the octane. If Avgas was tested under the same conditions as "mogas"or "autogas", it wouldn't have the octane rating it does. The test procedure is close to the MON test for autogas but with a much lower intake temperature. It DOES NOT have the same octane rating as 100 octane race gas. And it has a much lower REID VAPOR rating. Also, the whole "dry" thing is completely misunderstood. The "dry" in Avgas means it is certified to contain much less water, which will freeze. Any glycol in the fuel is to inhibit any water it does contain from freezing. And there isn't much glycol in it.
And Avgas has a Specific Gravity of about 6.05, compared to say VPs 110 which is 7.30. This means you should be jetting up with Avgas, and be using more. And the "octane rating" of avgas goes up as the mixture gets richer. All gas does, but Avgas even more so, because of the blend. I've got friends with 13:1 980hp big block ford running on 100LL, just by jetting a little richer than he does with Trick 104.
Some people mix avgas 4:1 with pump gas to "stabilize" for lower altitudes. The avgas is harder to vaporize than mogas. The vaporization thing is one of the issues with the supplemental type certificaion, the certification that allows mogas to be used in an aircraft. The fuel lines must be insulated and routed away from any heat source and cooled by outside air etc. or the mogas can flash off and cause a vapor lock. Not a good thing at 10,000 ft So by adding pump gas to the avgas, you are adding fuel with a high enough vapor pressure to flash easier and allows for an easier ignition. It isn't really neccessary, specially if you run mag, because Avgas is still much easier to light than methanol. And remember, airplanes still have to start and make good power at lower altitudes. But the addition of mogas will make the process easier. But will also lower the knock index down slightly. So go lightly.
There is nothing in the compounds that doesn't or didn't exist in mogas in the 60's. Just in different amounts. So maybe its the toluene. As far as comparing av with mogas in evaporation, there are more than a couple of race gas blends that will flat out run it in that department. And they aren't harder on fuels lines than any other fuel. Ask any fuel line supplier which they would rather deal with, Avgas or todays pump, and every last one will tell you, they would rather deal with avgas. There are in fact compounds in todays gas that is not in avgas, and was not in mogas 40 years ago. And these compounds are wrecking havoc with fuel lines in older cars and non-teflon hoses. Even the synthetic rubber stuff. So if its because it evaporates, I can see it. Any fuel will do that to rubber lines. Other wise, there is nothing mysterious in the stuff. Same stuff, just a different blend.
You may not be old enough, but gas in the 60's was cold as hell on your hands, not quite like alky, but cold just the same. Evaporation. Big time. And it would raise a welt on your skin is no time, and burn like hell. You could light it off in a 12 to 1 427 with nothing more than a points and condenser battery ignition.
There is nothing unique about the stuff that makes up Avgas
But while we are on the subject of evaporation, that is the major bitch with the tree huggers. And why they are pushing for an alternative fuel for 100LL. Less than 1% of gas is avgas, yet it is responible, so they say, for 25% of all unburned hydrocarbons released thru evaporation. Wait till they take another look at boats. Sealed fuel tanks and vapor recovery systems will right after the catalytic converters that are already here.
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I live in the midwest and all of our auto gas from the pump is 10% ethanol. This past year odd things happened and I wondered if it was due to a change in what was in the auto gas.
The guy who winterized my boat last year said to drain the tank instead of filling it up and putting stabil in it like years past. He said that the fuel was causing problem in marine applications.
The fuel pickup hoses in both my weedeaters and my leaf blower broke down and desintegrated.
The fuel system in my fathers golf cart did the same thing.
In fear for the fuel system in my 50cc RC Airplane, I strongly considered using 100LL.
Has anyone else had issues like those listed above? Or is it a coincidence that all three of my yard tools just imploded at the same time??
Fitz
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When riding cross country on the TAT (see ride reports). That d**n ethonal fuel ate the needle and seat out of 2 bikes. Had to ride across Oklahoma (top lengthwise) using pedcock as fuel regulator.. Had new needles shipped to Trinidad Colorado...
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YES FITZ IT'S THE ETHANOL!! I have it in 10% up here at the pumps in Maine and my weedeater just mysteriously broke last year too!! USE A MARINE GRADE STABILIZER IN ANY GAS YOU GET WITH THE 10% E, EVEN IF YOU ARENT STORING IT! TRUST ME
This last season I rode the 500 on: 91 Oct., 10% E Pump gas with K100-MG stabilizer, lucasoil octaine boost, and golden Spectro 50:1
And the frickin' thing was pingin' and poppin all over the place! It's definitly jetted too rich I think too, it backfired one time kicking it over and I swear it was louder than a shotgun blast!! I had to make sure I didn't blow the exaust gaskets out of it !! RETARDED, NEED BETTER FUEL AT THE PUMPS AMERICA! There is a dragstrip a town or two over, maybe I should go ask some of the drivers what they are using.
WILL HAVE MORE DEVELOPMENT ON THE BUILD SOON, NEW PICS OF MY SHOP TOO!BEEN A VERY BUSY BEE LATELY :wink:
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O.K. I think I finally have time to begin building again! The holidays killed me and work has Sucked, but I got my work area cleaned and sort of organized.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0852_1.jpg)
And have gotten my first shipment of parts in.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0854_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0853_1.jpg)
Nothing major just bars, controls, cables ect.,ect. I got my head bearing install/remover tools a while ago too.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0841_1_1-1.jpg)
Need to get going on the big stuff soon...
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0856_1.jpg)
And there it sits, just waiting to be reborn
More cool stuff soon, I know I was out of the loop for a while but hopefully i'm back! :mrgreen:
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Welcome back. Parts pile is looking good. Nice benches. They made of 3/4" osb?
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A note on that kickstand. Get the top tapered bolt 5mm longer and grind a nut thin so it clears the swing arm. Double nutting the top bolt is cheap insurance!
Fitz
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Welcome back. Parts pile is looking good. Nice benches. They made of 3/4" osb?
yeah, we make em' out of 3/4" advantech, they are tough as nails. We were thinkin about sellin them as a pre cut kit.
Cutting them correctly so they are perfect level is the toughest part, then they are pre-drilled and screwed with deck screws, nice bottom shelf that's removeable too. I'm not sure what the kit would go for if I made it?? but if yer' good :wink: go get some fresh advantech sheet and see what ya come up with!
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Nice thread, keep it coming.
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Well, I finally have gotten a little further into the teardown and have found some really excellent parts for this build too! I had posted on T.T. the beginning of the week that I wanted the engine on the desk by wed.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0924_1_1.jpg)(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0921_1_1.jpg)
Well it's fri., so a little longer than expected but I am VERY happy about how things are going so far.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0919_1_1.jpg)
The swingarm pivot bolt came out no prob.
I have not had to force a single thing to get this bike apart. It's in awsome shape!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0922_1_1.jpg)
My Shock before all the work.
As far as parts go for this thing, I got a Scotts st. damper w/ weld on tower and the BRP top clamp and bar mounts. (Scotts steering damp. triple tree combo pack.)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0927_1_1.jpg)(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0926_1_1.jpg)
I had not known BRP made a lower triple too! Now I do, and I am sending my OEM lower with the stem in it to them to press out the stem and press it into thier lower, so my trees will be all BRP. They make a nice rear chain guide too, far better than stock.
Also got my silicone hose kit.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0930_1_1.jpg)
My rear sharkfin.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0929_1_1.jpg)
That's it for parts I have so far.
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where are the kawasaki genuine parts? you gettin any :?
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New parts are cool. Sometimes it is hard to figure out where to start.
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I had to make this two posts because this dialog box does weird things when you get to the bottom? It keeps jumping up and down when I type?? :? weird.
Any how, I will also be sending out my Carb. to Dicks racing very soon for them to do thier boring, and jetting, and upgrades. Also sending the head off to larry soon for comp. re. and polishing. The stem pressed into the new lower by BRP, and Bringing my forks and shocks to Fac. Conn. for them to do thier rework magic! LOTSA CASH! Been waiting a LONG time for this, definitley! Have not even begun to dive into the motor work yet, I may have to take a financial breather first 8-)! BUT not for too long :lol:! This thing is gonna be freakin' amazin' when I'm done with it! It is going to be somewhat of a frankinstien though, not really a one company scheme like U usually see for a caliber build like this.
I am convinced I need to run race gas in this thing, but does anyone know where I can get it? I live in northern Maine, And I want to run VP's U4.4 - I belive is what it is called. I would go to the extent of ordering,PROPERLY storing, and dispensing a 55 Gal. drum of this stuff if I knew where to get it. Do I just order it direct from VP east and have it shipped to me? Is there any way to get it in smaller more manageable containers?
Look. I'm a newbie when it comes to race gas so a helping hand would be more appreciated than a scolding. But I can take constructive criticizim :-).
Thanks guys, enough for now :-P
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where are the kawasaki genuine parts? you gettin any :?
Why would you when there are far better parts out there??
I'm not rebuilding to restore to factory cond. I'm rebuilding it to FAR BETTER than factory condition.
If anyone want's the factory part's for this bike when they get it then they can have the one's that came off it! :lol: :lol: :-o just jokin' I know I know :-D
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I ordered the windowed wiesco from JFAB, hope to see it soon!! :cry:
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where are the kawasaki genuine parts? you gettin any :?
Why would you when there are far better parts out there??
I'm not rebuilding to restore to factory cond. I'm rebuilding it to FAR BETTER than factory condition.
If anyone want's the factory part's for this bike when they get it then they can have the one's that came off it! :lol: :lol: :-o just jokin' I know I know :-D
i rebuilt my 89 to factory, the ONLY non genuine parts i did not get were , crank bearings, rod kit, gasket / seal set, and wiseco piston kit , and suspension/wheel bearings, and bolts
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Good job, that is definitely a good thing. If you had one of these bikes still all stock, still in the crate, you could pretty much name your own price for it!
I love the classic 2-stroke Kawa?s and get great enjoyment from riding a standard OEM KX500. The same way I like riding in a Model-t at the owl?s head automotive museum! :lol: Great rides, all. But, time moves on along with technology, not utilizing that technology on the KX500 would not only eventually relegate this great 2-stroke platform to the annals of motocross trivia. But would also be a sad mistake. :|
I have no problem with the ?purists? but I plan on going in the opposite direction.
O.E.M. stock.......yawn! :evil:
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Good job, that is definitely a good thing. If you had one of these bikes still all stock, still in the crate, you could pretty much name your own price for it!
I love the classic 2-stroke Kawa?s and get great enjoyment from riding a standard OEM KX500. The same way I like riding in a Model-t at the owl?s head automotive museum! :lol: Great rides, all. But, time moves on along with technology, not utilizing that technology on the KX500 would not only eventually relegate this great 2-stroke platform to the annals of motocross trivia. But would also be a sad mistake. :|
I have no problem with the ?purists? but I plan on going in the opposite direction.
O.E.M. stock.......yawn! :evil:
ok you like after market stuff on your bike(s) , thats perfectley ok. but my mission was to make my 89 look like it did in 89
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Not here to alienate any one. to each his own.
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After more thought I am thinking maybe 100LL AV may be the answer. I can prob. get it locally and store and use it rather easily. I NEED to figure this out because I have my Carb. at Dick's racing and I NEED to specifiy which fuel I will be using so they can jet it accordingly. How would I go about telling them I plan on using AV fuel? will they be cool with that? Also I am sending my head to Larry Wiechman to have his Comp. Re. done and also the head work, so I will need to specify with him also the fuel used so he can machine it accordingly. Down to the wire now so I need to figure this out this week by Wed. :?
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So I took off my stator cover just to take a look, and I tested the coil resistance and found that blk/wh-blk/yel = 318.4 ohms and red/wh-blk/yel = 10.3 ohms. So I think it is out of spec., what do I do about that?
Also the gasket was leaky so it is a little corroded
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0944_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0947_1.jpg)
that kind of blows.
same thing with a few of my head bolts but they dont look too bad.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0941_1.jpg)
Here are some shots of my head and cylinder, what do you think?
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0933_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0934_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0935_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0937_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0938_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0939_1.jpg)
At least that looks like it is in good shape, it has a lot of carbon but that will come right off. And what do you think does the cylinder look glazed at all? I think it looks pretty good. :-P
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That cylinder looks very usable. Check around all port edges for any plating to be chipping away. I think a light hone job and you'll be go to go with that cylinder.
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Thanks hughes, Thats what I wanted to hear.
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I got to say, when I first started the engine work on this build I knew relativly little about any of it. Thanks to this site I am learning quite a bit! I know that who is doing the engine is compitent to do it, but he does not eat, breath, and pass- KX500 like some of us do :-D. But that is o.k. for now. this is my first 500 build, and I hope it is not the last! so I am still very low on the learning curve.
I have been getting a lot of stuff situated, soon I will be on the final build up stage of this and I will be posting some very cool pics of this monster as it goes back together. I hope I can be testing/dialing it before the snow starts again next fall.
At least I got my beat up kdx220 to ride this summer! :roll: (can't get out of it's own way! :lol:)
I live in maine and I hate the cold :|.... I don't even own a snowmobile :?.... I belong in so. cal. :oops:....
:? really, what am I doing up here in the sticks :?
P.S. Got another foot of snow today :x :x :x I am thouroghly DONE with winter :x :x .... Anyone want to trade places? The bike comes with me though! :lol:
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I will say rebuilding a Kx 500 motor the right way is one of the most pain in the ass motor to do, you have some many things you have to reserve engineer. I just hope for your pocket book your guy does a great job. Make sure he looks at all the issue these motors have.
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Your getting me uncomfortable Kaw, I hope for my sake too this guy knows what he is doing, but It will prob. go back together mostly stock. i'm sure this guy isint about to do much reverse enginnering for me, he acts like he doesnt even grasp the concept of the kips mod. I have mentioned it twice with no interest shown on his part, soo... as far as anything else goes we will see how he does. uh-oh spagettio for me if he screws it up! :|
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No worries Mate,
Kaw Rider has been in business and racing for quite some time, I'm sure his shop would love to have your business in the future. :wink: :-D
Tuck\o/
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So, things have been going a little slow latley. Still trying to wrap my head around where to go at this point. Just wanted to post some pics. Here are some things I have picked up.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0952_1.jpg)
Fork Bleeders
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0953_1.jpg)
BRP Chain Guide (Sweet 8-) )
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0957_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0958_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0956_1.jpg)
BRP Lower Triple (Holy Grail Of Triples! :lol:)
And THIS wicked cool... Carb Parts Wherehouse Keihen 39.5 PWK pre-jetted by them for kx500 + xtra jet kit:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0963_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0964_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0962_1.jpg)
Sweeter than sweet! 8-)
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Here I go setting up the layout for welding the stabilizer tower...
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0961_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0960_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0959_1.jpg)
More on the way, this will speed up soon, I hope :wink:
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great move on getting a brand new carb. You will thank yourself down the road. Hopefully your ingition system is good too, another part that has issues too.
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Working on the ignition thing, but it's a good$$tag to choke on! :|
Could anyone post a pic of how chamfered the window in the piston should be?
I didn't do anything to it before I sent it off to the builder, think that could end up being a problem? :?
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great move on getting a brand new carb. You will thank yourself down the road. Hopefully your ingition system is good too, another part that has issues too.
STILL... MY orig. Carb. is still @ Dick's. Have not heard a peep out of them! let's see... its' been since um, well UPS says they recived it on the 16th of March. And get THIS I called them on the 17th and said "I think you will be getting my carb. in today and I would like to go over the work order" The guy abruptly cut me off and said- "How about I call you when I recive it O.K. we'll go over it then." I said "O.K." and that was it! They did not even know they had recived it the day before! And Nothing since! I usually send them an email every few days but I just gave up! I have been meaning to call them, but I am BUSY! my comp. is much easier for me for getting in touch! So it's been about 2 weeks and no talkie talkie. They have not even tried to call me!
Called em today(03/02/11), they said dick is gone for the week so he will call me on monday... we shall see.
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I am headed down to NH tomorrow to pick up my suspension from factory connection. :-D VERY interested to see the back shock. I had them do some coating and anodize work. Should look and perform very nicely. :wink: Obviously I will post pics of it when I got it. Things have so far been going ok, I need to talk to the dude with my engine about a few things..... nothing major, and I need to get my stabilizer tower welded and the frame blasted and recoated..... Actually there's a lot to do, but thats allright I ain't in a huge rush :mrgreen: Not yet! :wink:
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So I'm back from FAC. CONN. with my susp. and you gotta see this shock! It is a work of art! Check this thing out:
BEFORE:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0922_1_1.jpg)
O.E.M. STOCK
AFTER:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0977_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0980_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0979_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0981_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0982_1.jpg)
Factory connection did the T-3 hardcoat on the body, They gave me my correct spring painted metal blue, the blue anodized endcap, DLC'd the shock shaft and gave me a fresh bumper, also the trick shock pre-load ring with the bearing in it and the top ring all in ano'd blue! They also did a tremendous amount if internal rework and parts switchouts. Absolutly Factory Connection Does an incredible job. They truly are "The best suspension period" I AM IMPRESSED :-o
Would suggest them to anyone for srevice. :wink:
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OOOOH pretty...
The Preload ring has a bearing in it? :?
I have never seen or heard of that...
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And here are the forks redone, They did an excellent job with what they had to work with. The fork job only cost me about uummm.... $390.00 rounded to that anyway... BUT I wanted the fork tubes DLC Coated and the fork lugs t-3'd also, so a while into the work and he had already broke a tool trying to remove the fork lugs from the shaft, and he gave me a call. " Hello paul, I am having a hard time removing these fork lugs and I do not want to go any further till I get an ok for you to do this. I may scratch, break, or bend another tool or your tubes or wreck the fork lugs in the process! So I told him to FORGET IT on the coatings on the forks and do the best he could for them. Anything cosmetic I can fix myself later. SO............ any one want some PICS :
PICS:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0984_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0970_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0966_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0967_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0968_1.jpg)
FACTORY CONNECTION DOES EXCELLENT WORK. These guys are serious! :evil:
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.43 springs... How much do you weigh? what kind of riding? Im curious how you like em once on the bike..
That is cheap on the work.. Think I just payed $4 somthing for my 08 forks to be re-valved, (didnt change spring) from precision concepts.
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OOOOH pretty...
The Preload ring has a bearing in it? :?
I have never seen or heard of that...
From what I read on the recipt- it has a bearing in it, it's like a thrust bearing that allows the spring to twist instead of bind when heavily compressed. Also it helps adjust preload so it does not stick too much, easier to turn. Kinda trick, I like it! They guy told me there were none left around anymore so I was bummed. I told him I really wanted it, and he pulled it out of the Fac. Conn. Archives somewhere, I don't know where he found it. BUT... I GOT IT!!! :-D :-D
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.43 springs... How much do you weigh? what kind of riding? Im curious how you like em once on the bike..
That is cheap on the work.. Think I just payed $4 somthing for my 08 forks to be re-valved, (didnt change spring) from precision concepts.
I weigh 185lbs. I am 5' 11" in height. I do woods trails(easy,semi open), pine forest mud trails(very technical), and WTFO when I pop out of the woods trails onto the open fireroads up here to blast the carbon out of it, and push it's speed limits.(drag it)! :evil:
I am confident with a few MINOR adjustments, this will be the best set up I have ever rode (suspension set up I mean.) PEACE ENJOY 8-)! Paul
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Got in touch with Dick's racing today, he is currently working on the Carb. I sent him. He told me he should be finished up with it tomorrow. He is doing the taper bore on it and installing a dial-a-jet, and rejetting it to compensate. I hope he sets it up for C-10 fuel but i'm not sure. I will give it a try set up his way and see how it goes. In the near future I will buy the boysen rad valve setup also, and I will be able to do some testing between the C.P.W. 39.5mm PWK / Vforce2 reed setup, and the Dick's taper bore D-a-J stockie mod/ boysen RAD valve reed setup. And also the swap of that. I will be able to do a lot of swap out combos and see what works the best. That should be a good time! :wink: And Larry's got my head going good, I should be seeing that real soon. I just got a PM from him today and he said he's working on it. He's a great guy, I love how clean the work is! GOOD STUFF!
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NICE! We both should be done with our bikes around the same time! I should be running in 2-3 weeks.
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NICE! We both should be done with our bikes around the same time! I should be running in 2-3 weeks.
HAH. funny... I should be also, at the rate parts are showing up now.
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Here's how KTM does it!
http://www.ktm.com/index.php?id=248&powerpartID=70193530&isotype=20
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Here's how KTM does it!
http://www.ktm.com/index.php?id=248&powerpartID=70193530&isotype=20
WOW! that part looks sick!
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Got my KIPS BOLT. And my Comp. RE. Head from Larry, SWEET! I figured Id post a few pics. I am headed down to my engine guy tomorrow to drop off the bolt and the Head, and talk to him about the finish out of the engine build. Things are going good, but I think I may have to go on hold for a bit after I get the engine back. We will see where the $$ stands after that whole chestnut! I will keep posting as I go.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0992_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0993_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0996_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1000_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_0990_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1004_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1007_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1008_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1009_1.jpg)
These are the bolts I will first work with for my first run of my own. Not as nice looking.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1010_1.jpg)
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Looking great! I love your suspension. I may have to copy you and look into having them do mine too.
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OK, I got my engine back from the builder and it LOOKS GOOD! :-D :-D
I am a fairly happy camper. I have been stressing this whole thing like crazy latley and I think I finally got over it. If you are spending boku $$ on a project, and learning the whole thing for the FIRST TIME, some thing you have been dying to do for 18yrs of your life, your bound to get a little up-tite about it!
Sorry for the bitchin in some of my posts, it was never directed toward anybody here. I'm Learning a LOT, and learning how to have FUN with it too! :wink:
SO, with that out of the way- Here are some pics of the engine. I have had very little time latley so my bench is a mess! And I really did not have time to take pics, so I just snapped a few shots. LOOKS GOOD SO FAR($1'450.00 worth of "good so far"!). Thanks for all the know how guys. MORE LATER!
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1053_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1050_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1051_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1052_1.jpg)
:-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-o :-o :-o :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D
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SWEEEEET!
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That shock is sick, way cool. The bearing in the pre load adjuster, they come stock on the Ohlins TTX shock as well, a word of caution, it is exposed and will rust up almost immediately if you wash your bike. I tried keeping it greased, then it gets all gummy from the dust, not sure what the answer is.
The preload adjuster that KXpegger listed is available as an aftermarket product for Showa and KYB, recently saw it in one of the magazines.
Delphi, your going to have one sweet ride, that thing will last you forever.
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I can't wait to see this bike finished, it's going to be bad a**. thanks for the pictures and keep them coming.
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Very nice build.Enjoyed following your progress.The bearing on the shock does work well to reduce a little bit of the jittery feel when hitting breaking bumps and choppy areas from acceleration bumps.It should help a little over rooted trails and rocky areas.It does eliminate the coil bind of the spring.Some forks could also benefit from them on the fork springs!
Did you have the valving of either the forks or shock changed?
I have an 03 500 and will put money to the handling first.IMO best place to invest.Hard to use a great motor with inferior suspension.More motor just brings out the short comings of the suspension and handling.I'm pretty happy with my stock motor and haven't had to rebuild yet!
I'm looking forward to finished project and follow-up on your mods.Also pictures!
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SO Here it sit's waiting to be welded:
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/IMG_1061_1.jpg)
I brought the hight of the tower down another 3mm from that pic. To assure NO BOTTOMING of the linkarm on the pins flats due to flex of the rubber mount handlebars. ( if you install one of these, remember that! )
NOW, my Q is this: IS this frame- cromoly steel- or -just mild steel? The scotts manual says to use just mild steel filler rod.
Now I need to figure out who or where I am having it welded.
IS THIS FRAME CROMOLY OR JUST MILD STEEL?
This is the final hurdel to leap, after this it should start to go a little quicker. soon the first run video will be posted :-D
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YEAH I KNOW IT'S BEEN A WHILE! Since I posted any progress on this bike, but it was because I hit a speed bump with getting the tower welded on it!! I do not have any equip. and no buddies to do it. So I took an adult ed TIG welding course(I can weld very good) and the teacher let me do it in class. SO IT IS DONE!!! YOU HAVE NO IDEA, 2 HOURS OF WELDING TOOK 2 MONTHS TO GET DONE!! CRAZY But now it is there and it looks pretty good to me. Now it is off to the sandblaster/painter to get powdercoated. After that it will be full steam ahead with completing this build. I promise just a few more months at the most! :-D
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1089_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1091_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1092_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1094_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1095_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1096_1.jpg)
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m510/delphipro/KDX220R/IMG_1097_1.jpg)
All set, It's a dirt bike so I guess it doesnt have to be that pretty! :lol:
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Nice build man. You'll be happy with the whole package it seems.
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Getting my parts sandblasted/ powdercoated very soon, so it wont be long..... I CANT FRIGGIN WAIT!!
HEY GUYS!! I just noticed that my exaust pipe has a huge crack in it!! :x must have cracked from excessive vibration.
SO, I NEED A NEW PIPE. I was going to just use the OEM cuz I was told it was plenty good. But now that I need to buy a new one anyway, maybe I should go for a pro-curcuit platinum or a platinum2. What do you suggest? I trust oem as far as fitment. But what about the pro-curcuit pipe? Will it fit up perfect or will I have to monkey with the mounts?? I am looking for a well rounded pipe as far as powerband goes. Should I just get an OEM?
I will eventually fix the crack in the one I have when I get my TIG welder. And keep it as a spare. :wink:
no suggestions? :?
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Should I remove the old races from the neck before or after I have the frame media blasted and powdercoated? :?
Bringing it to the coat shop friday
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I dropped my frame off for blasting and powdercoat Monday. He asked me to remove the races before I brought it to him.
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I dropped my frame off for blasting and powdercoat Monday. He asked me to remove the races before I brought it to him.
THANK YOU
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went with the platinum 2 for the pipe. :evil:
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I am ending this thread at this point and starting a new thread. "MONUMENT TO THE 2-STROKE, PART 2" - FINAL ASSEMBLY
I just figure it has been a while and I think it will work better that way. So, if you want to keep following the build search that name thread and I will see you there. I will check this thread from time to time too. SEE YA' :wink: