KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Steel Frame Conversion (SFC) => Topic started by: jonny500 on September 19, 2010, 04:34:04 AM
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The reason I came to this site was to find info on kx500af's and sf's. I found what i needed. it is now my turn to put some back.
I have decided to do an 99-02 250/500 conversion as it is the most straight forward and if my memory serves me right the 99-02 250 wasn't a bad bike. Over the past few months i have been collecting the parts together. for the engine I purchased an 89 kx500 with damaged clutch basket for ?700, I thought it didn't matter what year as they are all the same and i planned a complete rebuild. I put a new clutch in it and rode it a few times but ended up seizing it up. So i pulled the motor and sold the chassis parts on ebay and got all my money back plus more. i managed to buy a kx 250 2000 rolling chassis from ebay for ?300.
I know this has been done before i would like to know if members want to see this one, also if anyone wants see the engine rebuild as it seems a few are apprehensive about spliting cases. i can go into as much detail as people require on the build and engine rebuild.
heres some pics, i have found a horrible dent on the frame. I think i will source a new one unless anyone has some clever ideas
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i want to see them, and all the little things
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Yeah I'd like to see it too. I like looking at pic by pic rebuilds just to learn a lil bit more and see what the inner components look like.
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Yah, Let's see it! Post lots of pics. I wish I would have stopped to take more pics. I just got too excited and took very few breaks.
Carry on!
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just found a pic of the kx500 doner bike. i regret breaking it down, as you can see i was very good for a 1989
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PLEASE sell me those blue side plates!!! How much $ ?
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Silencer also.. If you wish to sell off some of the 500 parts.
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theres not alot left now panels and silencer have gone, i sell parts for all kx's on ebay. if you let me know on ebay that you are from here i will do you a deal.
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Got another frame from ebay today its a 99, the frame i have is a 2000. all parts should transfer i hope? While i was on ebay a got a set of friction plates made by prox has anyone use these before? Here take a look
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130427782636&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230525870312&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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new frame has arrived. not great but will do with a bit of fettling. have striped the motor to find the con rod is bent. i also found that the flywheel had sliped. this could be the cause of the bent con rod, if the ignition had advanced. any veiws on this are welcome? the taper on the end of the crank is in poor condition now, any ideas on a repair for this? failing that i will renew the crank and flywheel. dose anyone have 1? even with a shot big end as i will renew the conrod anyway. here some pics
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pic 2
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more pics
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looks like some one went nuts with rtv. :-o
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sorry, what is rtv
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The orange/red silicone. Don't buy it here it's just an example.
http://www.buy.com/prod/ultra-copper-rtv-silicone/q/sellerid/11408470/loc/66357/206889560.html
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something tells me you will have problems with that motor.
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I think you just found out why the rod is bent! Hydraulic Lock. You can compress a Gas but not a Liquid. :oops:
DoldGuy
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Doug
Should you be working. :-D
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Dont tell my Wife! :-o
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thanks danger. what makes you say that kaw rider? doldguy, i was riding the bike when it gave up there was no water and the rads were full when i stripped it. i did notice the big end bearing is shot to so that may have given up and then bent the con rod. it doesn't matter i plan on doing a complete rebuild anyway. i.e cylinder replate, piston, all bearings and seals, con rod and any thing else that is not to standard, thanks for your input guys
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does any one now what flywheels are interchangable with the 89
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does any one now what flywheels are interchangable with the 89
I believe '89 was a split year that could contain the newer or older ignition, but yours looks like the bigger flywheel. I would say one from a '90 up is what you need.
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Hi guys!.
Info about the Flywheel: F3T81171 5701 FITS 86-89 / F4T102 71 9X01 FITS 90-91 / F4T107 71 FITS 92-04
Greetings!
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thanks for the flywheel info. does anyone have one for sale.
bit more today drilled the rear swingarn/engine mount
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i then assemebled the the engine cases to use to for engine mounts
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you should have drill the cases together. hopefully your table is 90 degrees true.
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today i removed the front mounts on the frame ready to take the engine. now you see them
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now you dont
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i had the swing arm bushes shortened to 45.2mm
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i had to modify the bottom mount slightly so it would take the bolt
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the engine went in fine
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i didn't fancy using the original front mounts so i made some more using thicker steel and a bit bigger
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they fit ok too
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The reason I came to this site was to find info on kx500af's and sf's. I found what i needed. it is now my turn to put some back.
I have decided to do an 99-02 250/500 conversion as it is the most straight forward and if my memory serves me right the 99-02 250 wasn't a bad bike. Over the past few months i have been collecting the parts together. for the engine I purchased an 89 kx500 with damaged clutch basket for ?700, I figured it didn't matter what year as they are all the same and i planned a complete rebuild. I put a new clutch in it and rode it a few times but ended up seizing it up. So i pulled the motor and sold the chassis parts on ebay and got all my money back plus more. i managed to buy a kx 250 2000 rolling chassis from ebay for ?300.
I know this has been done before i would like to know if members want to see this one, also if anyone wants see the engine rebuild as it seems a few are apprehensive about spliting cases. i can go into as much detail as people require on the build and engine rebuild.
heres some pics, i have found a horrible dent on the frame. I think i will source a new one unless anyone has some clever ideas
Hi,
limited knowledge of KX series or scramblers generally - looking for general advice about the KX500 - why did you get rid of your KX500 pls ?
What's the advantage of a 250 frame with the 500 motor - is there significant size difference ?
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the 500 was not changed much since 1989 althought it was sold untill 2002 in the U.K and 2004 in the U.S. i have to be carfull here because there are some serious fans of the k5 on here. the k5 i had was an 89 so was pretty bad to ride (through old age) and combined with the fact there was little devolopement of it between 89 and 2004. compared to a modern mx bike the k5 is a tough beast to handle. so the advantages, basically are 10 plus years of development. the kx 250 chassis it lighter narrower with supirior frame geometry and suspention for motocross which is the what this bike will be used for. thats not to say the kx500 is a bad bike because its not, from all account it is an exellent dessert bike too.
having said all that neither bike would be suitable for a bigginer
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not much progress today. managed to get a cr 500 pipe from ebay, its a little rough but not alot else about, i will see if i can clean it up when it gets here. it will do to make the pipe mounts if nothing else. take a look http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370437261879&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
i made a template for the heads stay mount also
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i made some of the head stay today but ran out of time
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Johnny, this thread is very close to my build. It's like deja-vu!
How does the fuel tank fit with the rear headstay that's on the K5? Mine had to go (the headstay).
torch
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its gota go, just not got round to it yet. did you post your build on here? i bet your engine wasn't as wrecked as mine though lol
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Here is my thread:
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7388.0.html
torch
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yeah i watched it. i even found 1 of my posts on it. the reason its deja vous is cos i robbed some of your ideas lol, hope you didn't mind
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Rob all the ideas you want! That's why I posted it. :-D
torch
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finished the head stay, i will get it welded by someone else as my welding is poor (and thats being nice)
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Looking good Jon, cant wait to see it finished.
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great project.... great description!
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the cr 500 pipe a got off ebay turned out to be a 250 pipe so the build has been held up
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removed head stay, i will sand blast to give a factory finish (another of torches ideas)
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after the ebay problem i purchased a new dep pipe. i had a sleeve adaptor made to join the pipe to the exhaust port, i will have to see how this works/seals. the bottom mount is a kx 500 damper mount with the hole elongated and the rear is one i made, i will make a proper one with a rubber later. i had to put 2 dents in it 1 for the water pipe and 1 to clear the top of the engine. if this works the only mods for changing the pipe will be the 2 dents so a stock cr pipe can be fitted in about 20 mins use a hammer. here some pics
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removed head stay, i will sand blast to give a factory finish (another of torches ideas)
What happened to your bleeder screw?
Also, if you spring for shipping, I'll send you some of the large glass bead that I used. Your headstay removal looks great, BTW.
torch
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thanks for the offer but i am ok for blasting, i have a friend. the bleed was like that when i got it, i will helcoil it befor the final build up
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i would be careful with the bleed screw area when installing a helicoil
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i would be careful with the bleed screw area when installing a helicoil
why
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i would be careful with the bleed screw area when installing a helicoil
why
no answer was the stern reply lol, wouldnt it be better just to run a tap through it?
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there not alot of meat are the thread area. last thing is you dont what a coolant leak there.
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to be honest, the head is pretty beaten up i may use it as a practice for a de-comp and source a better one. but yeah i hear what you are saying kaw rider. i have bought some new casing from an 02 and a gear box from a 2000. i have sourced a recon barrel on an exchange basis, the clutch is new anyway. to be honest i will be using very little from the old engine, in fact you cant really call it the same engine lol
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dave engineering, i take it you mean a larger tap than the m6 (you cant put a thread in fresh air) and use a larger bolt. the next size would be m8 and as kaw rider says theres not a lot of meat. another option is to fill with weld and start a fresh with the m6, i will come up with somthing i am sure
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jon, I used to end all my rides with a wrecked flywheel woodruff key, and if yours moved it could have fired while the piston was still moving up, bending your rod. The cure? simple, cheap, and it never moved afterwards.get some valve grinding paste(being careful to keep it away from seals if crank in engine) and put some on taper using coarse paste first, then fine paste, and spin flywheel back and forth for about 5 minutes each type of paste which matches flywheel to crank taper.IT WILL NOT MOVE AGAIN.The present woodruff key is over 3 yrs old and no more dnf's as it were.Result.K.
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wakefield off road said they will supply a good crank half for ?60 and i also have another crank here as well. i have heard of that fix befor never tried it though. the flywheel and crank are pretty ruined the pics show it favourably. i wil do the grinding paste thing on the new to me/second hand parts to be sure, i dont want any more little problems lol
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the cases arrived from america today, i bought some other bits from the same guy as they were cheap. i think you will agree they are sweet
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Nice panties!!!!
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:-o i didn't realize they were in the photo :evil:
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Nice panties!!!!
He must not wear the purple ones when he rides, I dont see any mud stains :-D
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I just thought maybe those were some of the "other bits" he bought from the same guy.
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Do you have any pics or specs for the pipe sleeve that you had made?
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i am still prefecting it. i had to cut the first 1 down to get clearance for the front wheel. basicaly the first design had a honda fitting 1 end and kwak fitting the other. i ordered the cr exhaust ring and did not like it much. it turned out that the kx manifold actually fits in side the cr manifold so the final design is a double ended kwak manifold using 4 kx o rings. the length is up to you mine is as long as my front wheel clearance will allow. please remember this is untested so far. if and when i perfect it the final design drawing will be posted for all, if you need more now i will give you what i have or if you can wait i should be able to say what will work
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Thanks for the info! I can wait, I already have a Service Honda KX pipe but am looking for alternatives in case I smash the pipe.
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bought some rads from ebay, they came today. not to bad i can make them good. i have covered them in another more relavant thread http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,8247.msg63380/topicseen.html#new
heres a pic of them
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how thick are those radiator. what is the core size, width and height.
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by the core size do you mean the veins running up and down
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yes, i would guess the core is around 1-1 1/4" thick.
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kaw rider, the new rad is w=4 1/4", h=8 5/8", d=1 5/8" . the stock 250 rad is w=4 1/4" h=8 5/8" w=1 1/4".
i have some stock 500 rads i can measure but im sure you have some too
i think the new ones are more than upto the job, do you think the will make the motor run too cool?, also the rad system on the new bike will be in parallel compared to series on the the stock 500, how do you think that will effect it.
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thats around 72 sq.in. Get them up around 140 sq.in and 2" core and you will be good on a hot day. If you don't ride wide open all the time then you will be safe. For the price you cant go wrong.
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is that 140sq" on each rad or left and right together
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together
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140 seems a Massive overkill and to get that size sounds like your plastics would take some heavy modding. Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not sure how you worked out the core size, but from what I can tell no such rads exist excluding a custom job/running extra rads.
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Dave
There acouple of ways we could do this. Yes you are right if we made a radiator with 140 sq.in it would be big. The way the cooling system is, it's only working at about 40% eff.
How many guys have a water temp gauge on there radiator hose.
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My guess would be none. Tbh I think the ones Jonny has will do the job if you take into consideration that he's not a sand racer (due to the fact there are no desserts in the UK) and generally the temp in the UK is alot lower than the US.
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the cases arrived from america today, i bought some other bits from the same guy as they were cheap. i think you will agree they are sweet
how much the cases cost , bought a set from bikebandit myself two months ago, the new cases did not have any engine numbers?
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i payed about ?250/$400 for the whole lot including shipping. parts like that are hard to come by in the U.K. the U.S has more parts and they seem to look after the bikes better as the part i get from there have up til now been exellent. the price is about the same as the u.k even when shiping is added, just takes long to get but well worth the wait. while we are on the subject of u.k parts i had a crank half arrive today, i bought it for an established u.k breaker. i payed ?80 for it, i asked if the fly wheel tapper was good, they said it was a good crank half. this is what came. i will be phoning them in the morning lol
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Holy crap!! :|
Thats worse than the crank you had to start with.
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if i lived closer to the supplier of this part i would politely return it through a closed window :evil:
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So????? did you ring them???
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Yes, the guy said "I bend over backwards to help people with parts and this is what i get, just send it back. i said "i will but you cover the shipping". apparently he has 2 and this was the best one. well i wouldn't like to guess what the other is like or if he wasn't bending over backwards lol
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mounted the rads and cut the hoses to size just to get an idea of how everything is gona fit. the 2 90 degree bend hoses were suplied by a u.k manufacturer and the 180 degree was from ebay all told the hose cost ?30 delivered.
heres some pics
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Oh yeah, looking good. keep them pics coming.
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Don't forget to get rid of the weld seem on the frame where the lower cross over hose goes between the cylinder and frame :wink: Man I have to say I'm struggling with a little bit of radiator envy.
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yes i had noticed that, also making things worst is the wall thickness on that pipe is big, so i may have to look in my rad hose box for something better, but yes i think some of that weld will have to go
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You know If I was to do it again I think what I would do is notch the frame out and weld in a quarter piece of tubeing to make plenty of room and retain the strength of the frame.
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bdi, have you had problems with that hose chaffing ect, can i ask how the bike (02 500/250) is does it ride and jump ok ect
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No chaffing but I got rid of the weld seem and made the frame flat. if you do not do that it will rub a hole for sure. the bike rides awsome, it is a cool feeling to have this skinny little bike between your legs that barks with 500 power. My bike is a little scary to jump it will loop out very easy if you leave the lip on the gas.
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bdi. have you got some photos of it you could post
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the bike or the weld seem?
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the bike, thanks looks sweet
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Johnny looks like its coming along keep up the good work
mine is 2000 frame and 97 500 engine i used the 97 500 forks/swingarm/wheels. it handles good compared to the stock frame
also hope your not going to mount your pipe solid if so not a good idea
well good luck
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Updates man!! I know you have some....
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You know If I was to do it again I think what I would do is notch the frame out and weld in a quarter piece of tubeing to make plenty of room and retain the strength of the frame.
I never thought about doing that! I think I will try it, I was going to just grind the welds down and weld it flush.
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mounted the rads and cut the hoses to size just to get an idea of how everything is gona fit. the 2 90 degree bend hoses were suplied by a u.k manufacturer and the 180 degree was from ebay all told the hose cost ?30 delivered.
heres some pics
Can you list more information on how to get a hold of the hoses? :-D
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powerfiend, are you it the u.k. ? i got most of them from dph, web site
http://www.derbyperformancehose.co.uk/dph-sport-silicone-hose.html
the guy is tops and will really help you out, however he has limit on what he can manufature i.e the 180 bend, you will have to get that from ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270617101927&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
there is loads on there like this. it not as good quality as the dph stuff but i had no choice and its cheap. if you ask dph they will leave the dph print of the side so that it will match the chinese ebay stuff
hope that helps you
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more to come soon dave :-D
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just bought this little beauty of ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280594529530&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Winning bid: ?157.00
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just bought this little beauty of ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280594529530&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Have you managed to pay for it without the Mrs noticing then?, Or just braving the telling off your going get?
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mind your own dave its a sore point. set up another ebay account now and got another little beauty. winning bid $105/?67
brand new in the box. dont think they come round very often
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engine mounts welded and had the frame and head stay powder coated. i went for the af look even though the colour is called nickle
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d**n that frame looks good now, and to think Tib didn't like the welds.
Cant wait to see it come together now. Rock on!! :mrgreen:
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Good work, has a factory look.
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I'm really impressed.
I never read any of the SF posts till now.
Nice job.
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with christmas out of the way, it time to get on with this and get it done, i sand blasted the swing arm and used wire/steel wool to get a brushed stock look.
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i quick up date. crank is is going away tomorrow to have the journals welded and re-ground, wiseco piston is going with it to have the piston port put in. the crank will be rebuilt with an oem rod. it will all be dynamically balanced as a complete unit with the piston and oem gudeon pin (lighter that wiseco) and ignition flywheel. so it should, hopfully be a super smooth motor when built. awaiting bottom link and head stock bearings
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Looks great Jonny, When your crank is balanced. Would you like to ask at which balancefactor they
balanced your crank? I found out what it means, am trying to do it my self.
I have heard of a factor of 56% and 60%. Only scarry thing is that I'll choose the wrong factor.
Thanks Dutchie
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dutchy, when the crank arrives at the engineers they will ring me i will ask them about the balance factor as i have no clue. thanks to all for the coments
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crank is still away. the bearings arrived and have been fitted (heads stock and linkage) shock clean and fitted. i used the baking soda blaster idea for some of the parts including rear brake. this is awsome for cleaning cast alu parts. the rear brake caliper looked like it had just been dug up. sorry i didnt get befor pics but take a look at the after pic and see for yourselves. i can see light at the end of the tunnel now :-D
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Looking good. I like the clean look you have goin with everything silver or bare metal. Keep up the good work.
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Really coming along nicely!
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Very clean look.
Good job. 8-)
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Bloody hell Jon is that the same calliper??? keep the pics coming, I cant wait until its finished.
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rear wheel, sub frame and air box on. the paint on the sub frame was rock hard. took aroung 4 hours of sandin and blasting + nitromores. forks are striped ready for seals and slide bushes coming tomorrow. still no crank yet but should be coming this week. i rang applebees the other day and they are very buzy. i see that as a good thing (as long as my crank isn't too long)
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front forks have new seals and guide bushes, new oil and a good clean inside and out, new tyre on the front and dug some bars out. front brake disc was damaged so will have to get another. just thought i would pop the tank and seat on it so i could have a sit on it (boys never grow up) :lol: felt good. :-D
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nice project.....
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rang applebees today, and my crank is being done now and should be back very soon. dutchy, i asked about the balance factor and it is 50%, when they return the crank they are going to send a cd with pics and a vidio of how they did it. obviously this will be shared with kxriders.com
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Hi Jonny.
Thanks for asking about the balance factor, I have found how you could balance a crank at home.
And best of al what 50% balance factor means. I'm making a rig for my crank to balance it, and will post all the info
and pic's.
Dutchie
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i should have the bike running soon so will be able to give some feedback on how it runs
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crank is back, piston has the port in. i have cleaned and instaled the power valves with the doordie pin flip. cases are cleaned and have a new set of bearings :-D
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Looking good... Is all the weight only taken off one crank web??
I'm curious what your ring end gap measures at.. As mine was way loose...
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no there is more removed from the other web at the oposite side. i dont have any feeler gauges but my gap is less than 1mm. the piston feels really lose in the bore. this is my first 500 rebuild and my first with a forged piston. if you need me to a will get some feelers
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no there is more removed from the other web at the oposite side. i dont have any feeler gauges but my gap is less than 1mm. the piston feels really lose in the bore. this is my first 500 rebuild and my first with a forged piston. if you need me to a will get some feelers
If your gap too tight.. You will damage the motor....
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just had a look at cylimer and ring gap should be 0.15-0.35 with service limit at 0.7mm. i will check it properly tomorrow
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just had a look at cylimer and ring gap should be 0.15-0.35 with service limit at 0.7mm. i will check it properly tomorrow
Be warned.. I believe the specs. The Clymer are wrong... I'm sure other motor builders on here will agree that .006" on ring gap on a 86mm bore is bad juju...
I know wiseco wants it set at .013". And some say .016". Sorry. I don't work in metric...
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i have just very crudly measured it with a peice of folded up paper and a digital vernier. i make it the top end. 0.35mm or 0.014". i think i should be ok but i will be checking it properly tomorrow. thanks for the tip motorrad. i have come across mistakes in books before and they have caused me some headaches lol
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Johnny,
Make sure to chamfer the piston window also, as I had less than 4 hours on mine & could see wear marks in the new plating. Everything is looking good on your build & I am interested in your frame work as I have a chassis waiting for a transplant :-D
DoldGuy
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no there is more removed from the other web at the oposite side. i dont have any feeler gauges but my gap is less than 1mm. the piston feels really lose in the bore. this is my first 500 rebuild and my first with a forged piston. if you need me to a will get some feelers
i'll bring you a set of feelers tomorrow Jon, I've got metric and Imperial.
Be warned.. I believe the specs. The Clymer are wrong... I'm sure other motor builders on here will agree that .006" on ring gap on a 86mm bore is bad juju...
I know wiseco wants it set at .013". And some say .016". Sorry. I don't work in metric...
Dont worry, Here in England we use both.
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nice 1 dave :-D doldguy, i will be giving the piston the once over before fitting, anything you need to know about the frame just post on here and i will help in any way i can. thanks to all
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OK, so I must have missed something over the years, what is the doordie pin flip? Are you talking about on the KIPS flapper valve?
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Yeap! Pull the pins and swap ends & reinsert. IMO the pins are cheap enough to just replace & I bought a new center valve & will fight with the old one later.
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Yeap! Pull the pins and swap ends & reinsert. IMO the pins are cheap enough to just replace & I bought a new center valve & will fight with the old one later.
I had to buy another center valve also... as whomever tryed to do the pin flip on mine, while the motor was not in my custody... beat the living crap out of my flapper.... to the point of it not being usable IMO...
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hi don, the doordie pin flip (what i call it) all is described at 3.3 here http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/
the pin flip went ok for me about the only thing that has lol
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I flip a set of pin on a cylinder and they loosen up and jammed up the powervalves and it stuck the powervalves and it was a pain to get out. So i tack weld the pins now.
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motorrad, my ring gap is 14 thou. so thats good right?
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motorrad, my ring gap is 14 thou. so thats good right?
Perfect.. Your golden....
I just ordered 4 sets of rings in hopes one set will measure what yours do...
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when i put my piston in the bore it feels very lose, is this a forged piston or a 500 thing. i have loads of experience building 2stroke motors but never used a forged piston or built a 500 (they just not very common over here)
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I would measure the bore and piston to be sure what you have.
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I always check the work of the plater bore etc,..
Not everyone has a bore gauge.
You can kind of fake it with those feeler gauges you have..
Not the best and most accurate way.. But better than closing your eyes and slapping it together...
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yeah i think you are all totally right. i just dont have the equipment to accuratly measure it here. i can take it some where to have it done, i think i will do that as it better to be safe. this thing has cost alot and i plan on keeping the motor for years to come, i will just keep puting it in newer frames as they come along.
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hi don, the doordie pin flip (what i call it) all is described at 3.3 here http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/
the pin flip went ok for me about the only thing that has lol
the pin that joins the two section of the centre kips is the same as the pins your flipping,
only ?1.73 each so no real need to flip pins when you can buy new
part no 92043
PIN,4X23.8 ?1.73
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yeah i think you are all totally right. i just dont have the equipment to accuratly measure it here. i can take it some where to have it done, i think i will do that as it better to be safe. this thing has cost alot and i plan on keeping the motor for years to come, i will just keep puting it in newer frames as they come along.
Its alot cheaper to do it right the first time... than do it twice...
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thanks dave, i have done it now so no need but usfull info. new bearings all round in the bottom end. assembled so far as you can see. just waiting for the new clutch plates to soak over night. should hopfully have the bottom end complete over the weekend
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looks like that crank took a bit of balancing? did u get it welded or not? chis did not weld mine but i am still thinking about welding (cold) it myself,
is that the head gasket 1mm in picture u are using?
U can get a genuine 0.4mm steel from Cornwall for under 12quid
{when i sent my barrel with prox piston to langcourt i sent all clearance etc from cylmer manual }
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the crank looks like swiss cheese lol, looks like they had to take alot out. that is a lancourts cylinder, i think they are the best in the U.K so i am sure it will be right but i am going to check it any way. crank not welded i dont think it needs it, time will tell. the gasket it a mitaka, no idea of the thickness i will use it for running in, then lift the head to check every thing and set the squish, how is yours going dave, is it together yet
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thanks dave, i have done it now so no need but usfull info. new bearings all round in the bottom end. assembled so far as you can see. just waiting for the new clutch plates to soak over night. should hopfully have the bottom end complete over the weekend
Darn your ahead of me now!...
Looking good..
Crank give you any trouble going in the cases?
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it was tight but thats a good thing. i was carfull, i didn't want to un ballance the crank it cost alot
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it was tight but thats a good thing. i was carfull, i didn't want to un ballance the crank it cost alot
Use the good old freezer/oven technique?
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just had the bore and piston measured as follows piston = 3.374" / 85.70mm and bore = 3.386" / 86.00mm. this is out of spec by cylimer. is this ok to run or not :|
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the cylinder is good, but the piston is small or they measured the piston wrong.
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the cylinder is good, but the piston is small or they measured the piston wrong.
Agreed... where on the piston did they measure?
You should have a .008" differance between the piston and bore total (if your running wiseco specs. (.004" clearance)
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i have just measured it with my digital vernier and it comes out 85.8mm that gives 0.2mm/0.008" . i am going to run it. the guy must have made a mistake. it was the bore i was struggling to measure anyway. thanks for your input kawrider/motorrad
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i little more progress. we may be hearing that sweet 500 2 stroke sound before the week is out :-D :-D :-D :-D
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Jonny the Kawasaki SM i have is 1988 standard bore 86.020 -86.035mm
max bore 86.10 mm and standard piston 85.910 -85.925mm max 85.80mm
and clearance is 0.105-0.125 mm
hope this helps JM
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i little more progress. we may be hearing that sweet 500 2 stroke sound before the week is out :-D :-D :-D :-D
CANT WAIT!..
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thanks jm. motorrad, neither can i but i may have been slightly optomistic in my last post. may get chance to put some hours in today. i am under going a training programe too, just so i can hold on to this thing when its done. time is short
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i was torquing the head bolt and 1 of the studs pulled out grrrrrr, got to helicoil it :cry:
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well it'll be good as new i hate when things like this happen
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i was torquing the head bolt and 1 of the studs pulled out grrrrrr, got to helicoil it :cry:
Ugg hate it when stuff like that happens..
Was building a toyota 22R motor about a year ago... and was doing final torque on the head bolts (this is after a few heat cycles in the car.. so it was already in the car!!) ... and one... took the thread with her.. (wouldnt go to torque)... UGGGGG... makes you pull your hair out... (or what little some of us have left of it)
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ITS ALIVE :-D :-D :-D helicoiled the barrel and got the motor to gether again. built it up so far. main jet 170, idle jet 60, needle m82r on 3rd clip, pilot air 1 turn out, putoline castor oil at 32:1. my experience of 500s is limited so please coment on the jet ect. it fired up first kick and ran fine on the stand. just got to sort the pipe a little, i am going to abandon the exhaust sleeve adaptor and weld it on. should be having the first ride by next weekend
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Damm Jonny, looking good!!
You must have butterfly's in your stomic and eager to ride the beast :-D :-D :-D
Feels great, isn't it :roll:
Dutchie
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looking good jonny,
will that coolant inlet on barrel upsidedown work ok?
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yes it will work fine, just need to make sure there are no air locks
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Fantastic, I know what we are doing tomorrow lol.
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pipe is sorted, i had a new kx manifold made and welded on to the cr 500 pipe. i used the stock 250 silencer but changed all the internals to larger 32mm (1 1/4" ) tube and fabed a new stinger to go with it. for the less experiened guys, the photo shows a test i did after the pipe was complete and fitted, it is to check that when the front forks are fully compressed the the front wheel does not hit the pipe if this were to happen when the bike was in use it would cause the front wheel to lock and it would hurt, this test is a must when building the type of bikes we build on this site.
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thanks dave, i have done it now so no need but usfull info. new bearings all round in the bottom end. assembled so far as you can see. just waiting for the new clutch plates to soak over night. should hopfully have the bottom end complete over the weekend
(http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8032.0;attach=10030;image)
What clutch basket is that?
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(http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8032.0;attach=10269;image)
What Rads are those?
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What clutch basket is that?
Its a mitaka basket
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Coming along nicely! I never thought of checking the front wheel to pipe clearance!
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Right guys, I filmed Jonny start the bike today for its first proper run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk9zAtONO_U
Its only a short video as the battery died in my camera.
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Right guys, I filmed Jonny start the bike today for its first proper run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk9zAtONO_U
Its only a short video as the battery died in my camera.
sweeeet
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That bike is looking really good it should not be long to you get it to its first meeting.
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I LOVE THE SOUND OF A 500!!!!!
GO JONNY
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power feind, like dave said it a mitaka basket cost about ?100 from ebay. the rads are chinese specials they are all over ebay, there are some quality issues but for ?100 delivered i thought i would give them a go
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Cant wait to hear how you like that balanced crank!
Nice basket... Im looking for one myself....
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Cant wait to hear how you like that balanced crank!
Nice basket... Im looking for one myself....
That is a nice clutch basket. Let me know if you find them. I'd like 2!
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Cant wait to hear how you like that balanced crank!
Nice basket... Im looking for one myself....
That is a nice clutch basket. Let me know if you find them. I'd like 2!
what? find mitaka baskets?
here you go
http://cgi.ebay.ca/MITAKA-Clutch-Basket-Kawasaki-KX250-1990-91-KX500-86-04-/390294771007?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5adf61953f
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Cant wait to hear how you like that balanced crank!
Nice basket... Im looking for one myself....
That is a nice clutch basket. Let me know if you find them. I'd like 2!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MITAKA-Clutch-Basket-Kawasaki-KX250-1990-91-KX500-86-04-/390294771007?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5adf61953f#ht_1730wt_905
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bike is almost finished now. brakes on, new plastics and decals. i have a new seat cover to go on and i have to to some work on the rad plastic as they are a little too wide with the over size rads on moded frame mount, but can be sorted easy. as you can see the is some mud on the bike, i had about half an hour riding yesterday. i felt right at home on the kawasaki. since my last kawsaki about 5 years ago i have had a ktm380 98, cr125 2001, crf450 08 and rm125 05. prior to that i had always had kx's. i had forgoten how good the kwaks are, they just seem to suit me. the motor pulls very well the crank work was well worth it, i would equate the vibs to that of a bad 250. but seem to get alot batter as i get up the revs alittle. heres some pics sorry should have cleaned it. i will post 1 last pic of it totally finished
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bike is almost finished now. brakes on, new plastics and decals. i have a new seat cover to go on and i have to to some work on the rad plastic as they are a little too wide with the over size rads on moded frame mount, but can be sorted easy. as you can see the is some mud on the bike, i had about half an hour riding yesterday. i felt right at home on the kawasaki. since my last kawsaki about 5 years ago i have had a ktm380 98, cr125 2001, crf450 08 and rm125 05. prior to that i had always had kx's. i had forgoten how good the kwaks are, they just seem to suit me. the motor pulls very well the crank work was well worth it, i would equate the vibs to that of a bad 250. but seem to get alot batter as i get up the revs alittle. heres some pics sorry should have cleaned it. i will post 1 last pic of it totally finished
50% balance factor would run smoother higher in the rpm range...
Looking good!...
Get it sorted, and dialed in.. you will love it even more!
Please post more than just "one last pic" of it finished... post alot of them... some in the air, some in the mud... so on..
I like pictures.. (reason my build thread is FULL OF THEM)
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We've been for a run today and I shot a few videos of jonny500.
All can be found on my youtube page http://www.youtube.com/user/Madr0cker
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A+ on the bike, i love it! 8-)
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Cool!
Looks sano too--plus such a good handling frame--good on ya
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Johnny i bought the exact same rads for my 01 500 and had some big problems with the stupid china crap! first they didnt bolt up properly so i had to re drill holes then the rad shrouds didnt fit properly and when re doing the hoses i noticed that my pipe was hitting the hose ! I emailed them and reamed out the guy got the rads for free with my money replaced
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how are those rads holding up? ive got some new china rads for my cr250 project and i was wondering if they are any good
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i really havent used the bike much. its got about 3 hours on it max. but so far so good
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thanks for the flywheel info. does anyone have one for sale.
bit more today drilled the rear swingarn/engine mount
quick question.. do you absolutly have to split the cases when you drill it to 17mm?
also why do you have to drill out the swing arm mount anyway? if im using everything from my kx500 im trying to understand why i wold have to do so. any help understanding this would be great. thanks
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the cases can be drilled together, in fact its widely believed on here that its better to drill them together. remember my build is different to yours i used the 250 swing arm. i would say if your using the 500 swing arm then you will not have to drill the cases at all. however the 250 frame has 17mm holes for the 17mm swing arm bolt, imo to make a good job of it you will have to use some custom made washers 17mm 0n the out side and 15mm on the inside to sleeve the holes down. i would say the first thing you should do is get the 99-02 frame so you can have a look at what is needed, we need junk man to chime in this, you could try pm to him. if not im sure we will sort it out
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the cases can be drilled together, in fact its widely believed on here that its better to drill them together. remember my build is different to yours i used the 250 swing arm. i would say if your using the 500 swing arm then you will not have to drill the cases at all. however the 250 frame has 17mm holes for the 17mm swing arm bolt, imo to make a good job of it you will have to use some custom made washers 17mm 0n the out side and 15mm on the inside to sleeve the holes down. i would say the first thing you should do is get the 99-02 frame so you can have a look at what is needed, we need junk man to chime in this, you could try pm to him. if not im sure we will sort it out
o ok.. well that would make sense wouldnt it lol.. thanks for clearing that up. also good to know i can drill it without splitting the cases just in case i go another route.