KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: seff23 on August 30, 2010, 04:30:38 PM
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well i finally put new seal and mains in my bike since i had apart anyways for a rod bearing. so my question is when i put in the new bearings i know there going to need some oil on them but how much? should i pour a cap full in each bearing oil drain or just a few drops? what about on the new rod bearing itself, a few drops or a cap full??
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some people (me included) use engine build grease on the mains, ask your local bike shop what they use, if you use oil put a good dribble on all mentioned areas, too much over too little where lube is concerned everytime...hth
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X'2
Like Kwak said, I use moly and twostroke oil mix. Too much might produce a little too much smoke at fie up, so?
Too little... well you know what too little will do...
The Idea is to provide enough lube until the oil starts to separate from your induction (Fuel) to fog and precipitate on your new bearings.
Tuck\o/
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X'2
Like Kwak said, I use moly and twostroke oil mix. Too much might produce a little too much smoke at fie up, so?
Too little... well you know what too little will do...
The Idea is to provide enough lube until the oil starts to separate from your induction (Fuel) to fog and precipitate on your new bearings.
Tuck\o/
Is your mix thick enough to "pack" the bearings?
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Use a good grease for the seals and i pour in my break in oil into the crankcase intills it fills the hole crankshaft area to the top and i let it sit for one hour then i suck most of it out leaving about 3 oz in bottum of case.
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Use a good grease for the seals and i pour in my break in oil into the crankcase intills it fills the hole crankshaft area to the top and i let it sit for one hour then i suck most of it out leaving about 3 oz in bottum of case.
Like moly grease? Your break in oil should be the same as what you normally run?
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Your break in oil should be the same as what you normally run?
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Are you sure about that. You can do that but if you what good ring seal and no piston wear then you what to run break in oil. I have alot of testing in this subject. Plus it even more important with a plated cylinder. Also most rings don't come lap for the bore there going into.
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Your break in oil should be the same as what you normally run?
Are you sure about that. You can do that but if you what good ring seal and no piston wear then you what to run break in oil. I have alot of testing in this subject. Plus it even more important with a plated cylinder. Also most rings don't come lap for the bore there going into.
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I was just asking brother. I wanted your opinion on what would be the best break in oil. Obviously the Amsoil Dominator synthetic would not be ideal IMO for assembly lube, but thats what I like for my premix oil.
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the amsoil dominator is made for short life race motors with no rust protection. For long life motor need to look some where else. When we ran amsoil we had crazy fast piston wear. A good semi-synthetic oil is good for long life motor. I buy it from a piston manfu. that makes break in oil for 2 strokes piston rings.
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the amsoil dominator is made for short life race motors with no rust protection. For long life motor need to look some where else. When we ran amsoil we had crazy fast piston wear. A good semi-synthetic oil is good for long life motor. I buy it from a piston manfu. that makes break in oil for 2 strokes piston rings.
OK cool, while I have your attention, what premix oil do you recomend? I know to stay away from castor based oils for KIPS valve protection...
What say you sir?
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It depends on your riding demand. A guy running his motor with alot of tire up a sand hill verus a guy cruising around his local riding spot will vary. The real way to do it is to pull your reed cage after riding and put a bore camera down the crankcase and look to see how much oil is down there or feel how much oil film is on the crank and rod. With most of the 250 and 500 i build for track use i'm at 20:1-24:1 with any castor oil out there or 32:1 with synethic.
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It depends on your riding demand. A guy running his motor with alot of tire up a sand hill verus a guy cruising around his local riding spot will vary. The real way to do it is to pull your reed cage after riding and put a bore camera down the crankcase and look to see how much oil is down there or feel how much oil film is on the crank and rod. With most of the 250 and 500 i build for track use i'm at 20:1-24:1 with any castor oil out there or 32:1 with synethic.
OK, thanks for your input sir! :-D
Aren't you concerned with the gumming up of the KIPS valves with castor based oils? Just curious.
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i just put a motor together for a customer and it had 20 hours on it since last rebuild and the powervalve add alittle soft carbon on it and looked good. Jetting is key to getting no gumming up.