KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: tschisi on June 03, 2010, 08:20:26 AM
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Hi!
I have to replace the upper bearing of my lower clutch lever :-D
This one:
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/5120/bearingi.jpg
Unfortunately i can?t pull it out of the case.
Any ideas?
thx
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A bearing puller, such as harbor freight tools will remove the top one. I managed to pull mine with just some simple hand tools. It cannot be reused after.
The lower one, had to be removed by a machine shop.
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You need a blind bearing puller, you can get one from http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/?category=&q=blind+bearing+puller the quality is poor but it will get the job done. I recommend the one from http://pitposse.com/blbeandbure.html although the quality is not the best in the world as far as tools go it is much better then harbor freight.
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I bought the harbor freight ones that BDI mentioned. Opened the package when I got home and closed it right back up and returned them. They aren't worth the money. Weren't even worth trying. The second link is quite a bit more money but they look a hell of a lot better quality than harbor freight ones.
I had a friend at a machine shop remove mine. I told him I didn't care how he got it out as long as my case was still usable.
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Blind bearing pullers are definately the way to go. However if you can't afford a quality one sometimes you can get by by welding a nut (or bolt) to the inner race and using a slide hammer to get it out. Best done with TIG to avoid welding spatter.
Cheap bearing pullers (of most kinds) are false economy because they don't last very long. Sykes pickavant might be expensive but it will last you a life time if you look after it. If you rarely need it done take it into an engineering workshop to have it done (just make sure they have a blind puller so they dont waste your time/money). Should be minimum charge of 1/4 hour to get those out.
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I bought the harbor freight ones that BDI mentioned. Opened the package when I got home and closed it right back up and returned them. They aren't worth the money. Weren't even worth trying. The second link is quite a bit more money but they look a hell of a lot better quality than harbor freight ones.
I had a friend at a machine shop remove mine. I told him I didn't care how he got it out as long as my case was still usable.
The harbor freight one is junk for sure. mine was given to me and I do the dance of joy every time I successfully pull a bearing with it.
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I bought the harbor freight ones that BDI mentioned. Opened the package when I got home and closed it right back up and returned them. They aren't worth the money. Weren't even worth trying. The second link is quite a bit more money but they look a hell of a lot better quality than harbor freight ones.
I had a friend at a machine shop remove mine. I told him I didn't care how he got it out as long as my case was still usable.
The harbor freight one is junk for sure. mine was given to me and I do the dance of joy every time I successfully pull a bearing with it.
LOL! You are much braver than I. I was afraid of breaking something important with that junk.
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You don't need a bearing puller. Place the case half in the freezer overnight. Then quickly heat up the case around the bearing and slam the case (bearing facing down) off a wood block. The bearing will fall out. You might need to do this a few times if it's a really tight fitted bearing. I've done tons of bearing with this method. If that cluch bearing resides deep in it's bore, it might be a challenge, but this method is "free" so you got nothing to loose by trying !
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Thanks guys, i already got it out.
Just milled a gap into the bearing (carefully).
The inner basket and needles had already been removed.
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I bought the harbor freight ones that BDI mentioned. Opened the package when I got home and closed it right back up and returned them. They aren't worth the money. Weren't even worth trying. The second link is quite a bit more money but they look a hell of a lot better quality than harbor freight ones.
I had a friend at a machine shop remove mine. I told him I didn't care how he got it out as long as my case was still usable.
The harbor freight one is junk for sure. mine was given to me and I do the dance of joy every time I successfully pull a bearing with it.
LOL! You are much braver than I. I was afraid of breaking something important with that junk.
had a friend at a machine shop remove mine. I told him I didn't care how he got it out as long as my case was still usable.
[/quote]The harbor freight one is junk for sure. mine was given to me and I do the dance of joy every time I successfully pull a bearing with it.
[/quote] I Know :lol:. I'm a real fan of quality tools but a buddy brought over and engine cas and wanted me R&R all the bearings for him. I told him I wouldn't do it with out a blind bearing puller and he showed up with that POS. One thing I can say is you need to grease the pllers before use. Grease the pin that gets driven between the fingers of the piece of the puller the goes into the bearing. Also make sure you get the puller fairly snug in the bearing the first time we tried we didn't have the puller very tight and it pulled right through the needle bearing. It didn't hurt anything but the puller, I think it happend because the metel the puller is made from is so cheep. I have cut them pesky needle bearings out more then once and I'm over it. At the price of new cases It is not worth the risk.
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if you weld a small bead on the bearing race it will fall out. This should only be done by qualified people. We do this with jetski pump bearings, works great.
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On a needle bearing?
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brian your right, i most been smoking something when i wrote that.
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I may be way out in left field here as I haven't had the opportunity to physically see this scenario, but an old machinist taught me this trick to removing blind bearings/bushings in crankshafts (clutch pilot bearings). You first need to find something that will fit into the inner diameter of the bearing to be removed, the tighter the fit the better, but it needs to have enough clearance to move easily in the inner bore of the bearing. Kinda like the fit of the master link in a chain, not a machined fit, but tight enough it doesn't wobble all over the place. This can be a bolt, a piece of allthread, a brass/steel punch or whatever has a pretty snug fit. Next pack the cavity under the bearing with the thickest grease you can get by pushing it through the inner race of the bearing, essientially filling the whole cavity up with grease to the top of the inner race of the bearing to be removed. Then insert the previously selected piece that fit into the inner race of the bearing and force down into the inner race (remove some grease if needed you can add it back later) enough that the race willl guide it when you start to hammer it in. As previously stated you are going to strike the aforementioned piece that fits into the inner race of the bearing with a hammer. You don't need to swing from the backyard or hit it like some redheaded brat from down the road, just a nice sharp,accurate strike and whatever bearing is there will start to move. You will need to add grease every three to four strikes to keep the pressure where you need it but it won't take long and your bearing will be free. This works even if there is a "drain hole" for the oil underneath the bearing, it takes a little longer in this situation due to the leakage through the drain hole, but just keep packing in the grease and beating it with the hammer, you'll get it. Hope this helps.
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good method there bigdaddyj. i have used this method before with success. my dad taught me that trick. it's amazing when you stop and think about all the cool tricks your dad taught you, or little shortcuts learned from the "old" guys at work.
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my dad told me that one but he said to use a wooden dowle so not to damage anything. He says it works and if pops says it works :wink: it does. I have never found myself in a situation that I thought it would work, not to mention my ocd side has a fear of cleaning grease off the ceiling. You know for a long time I wouldn't eat ribs because of the barbeque sauce. Anyway That is an awsome trick I never thought of mentioning because I didn't think it would work in this case but some day some where some one will get to use it. Good call for sure :|
P.S. maddog and I post are posts at the exact same time. I just thought that was way cool.
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bdi, you need to come up to my place and we'll have some beer and eat smoked ribs. no bbq sauce to be afraid of.
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I would love to :-) man I could use a vacation. By the way My wife laughed at me enough I got over the sauce but I will have a stack of towles when I'm done. I love me some ribs, sweet baby rays MMMMMM
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my dad told me that one but he said to use a wooden dowle so not to damage anything. He says it works and if pops says it works :wink: it does. I have never found myself in a situation that I thought it would work, not to mention my ocd side has a fear of cleaning grease off the ceiling. You know for a long time I wouldn't eat ribs because of the barbeque sauce. Anyway That is an awsome trick I never thought of mentioning because I didn't think it would work in this case but some day some where some one will get to use it. Good call for sure :|
P.S. maddog and I post are posts at the exact same time. I just thought that was way cool.
It's funny you mention "wooden dowel" I remember back in trade school, learning to extract clutch pilot bushings on cars and trucks, by packing grease in the bushing, then finding a snug fitting dowel, then smacking the dowel wirth a hammer. The dowel forces extreme hydraulic pressure on the backside of the bushing forcing the bushing outwards. I't worked too.