KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: matzilla on May 08, 2010, 03:26:54 PM
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ok, my bike was running awesome just the other day with a 62 pilot 2 turns on the air screw 3rd clip on a CEJ needle and 180 main. then i went to ride it the next day and it is so rich all over that it will barely run. i have gone down one jet at a time to a 55 and it is still way to rich on the pilot circuit. loads up bad then clears out with some throttle. it has a fresh B8EG plug and a clean and lightly oiled k/n filter. i used starting fluid spray to check for vacuum leaks, but it is acting more like it isn't getting enough air. i am wondering if i should be looking at my Vforce reeds. any other possibilities? it is only about 10 degrees warmer than when it was running perfect. thanks in advance for your help.
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I know its a long shot but when you cleaned the air filter did you put a rag in the intake to keep out dirt, and leave it in? I did it the other day. I even taught to my self "take the rag out", I was doing two bikes, took out the first one, got distracted and left the 2nd. I remembered about 20min later and went in after it. Its probably not your problem but I figured I'd throw it out there.
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no rags. thanks
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Hum... Head scratcher.
Ok I got another thought, maybe the air passages in your carb are clogged with dirt. I would remove the carb. Remove the jets, clean everything real good with carb cleaner and compressed air. Also check to see that your slide is closing all the way. I would install your original jet specs. and see what happens. When the carb is off it couldn't hurt to give the reeds a look. I don't think that's it, but it is right there.
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Check silencer. Any obstruction in there causes power issues quickly. Your main is a 180? I would also clean jets and float bowl to rule that out. You might find something when you're looking in there.
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when it started doing this and i started looking at jetting i pullud the carb apart and cleaned it and cleaned the jets. slide closes all the way too. i am going to tear it out again tonight and dismantle the carb and soak it in the chem dip. while i'm there i"ll pull the reeds and inspect them too. i wonder if filter oil could get into the pilot air circuit and clog it partially making the pilot rich by not mixing right. frustrating having to work all day first when this is on my mind.
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The filter oil could be it. Good luck
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try the vent tube and ck the fly wheel to see if it sheared the keyway
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check the choke circut on carb, remove the choke plunger to clean, could just be little dirt under the plunger which make it run rich ,
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funny you mention the vent tube. the only other change i have made was routing the bowl vents up to the air box. is it possible for this to affect float levels or create some kind of pressure drop in the bowl?
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put vent tubes where they belong,if not the problem check float level. sounds like something simple. 180 main,sounds big.
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What kind of fuel?
I have had the back east fuel (with all the corn in it) swell the needle and seat and cause it to not seal properly. Causing exactly what you described. Can't tell by looking at em.
An external fuel level check (see clymer manual) will tell you alot
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sunoco 110 leaded race gas. 40 to 1 with dumonde tech full synthetic
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my vent tubes got plugged a couple years ago at st. anthony with oily sand. got worse every ride till it just ran like crap. totally plugged a couple tubes. i found the problem and got new lines from ace hardware and everything went back to normal.
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that is crazy.. i have never seen that..this is one of those once in a lifetime things that you will never forget..lol
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yesterday after work i pulled the carb and cleaned it again. blew out the different circuits and all the vent lines. went back to original jetting and worked my way back through the pilot jets back down to a 55. it seems inconsistent. it will respond well for a couple trips up the street, then it sounds like it loads up the pilot circuit again. then i put my uni filter on and it did the same thing. i think i may have to pull my exhaust and look at things. i can see up the silencer, no packing obstructing. if i can't find anything wrong in the exhaust side i might have to pay my friend to fix it. i am getting frustrated.
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Did you wind up looking at your reeds? When mine sucked a petal, it lost power. It idled, but fell on its face with a handful of throttle. But that was pretty consistent. No chance you are running old fuel? sounds like you ride too much for old fuel, but just rambling on about possibly overlooked issues. Did you try a new plug? I have had new ones that didn't work right.
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What about a bad crank seal on the clutch side . It's now rich , it's oil foul . Everytime our 5's go extremely rich it's the crank seal clutch side - extremely lean suddenly crank seal flywheel side. CBX
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oh i hope that isn't it. what a pain. just put it together in november. oem seals.
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Matt,
Like CBX mentioned, without any other changes to the bike the crank seal would be a likely suspect. The ones I had go bad did so in pretty short order. Like one ride the bike was running like a scalded Dawg and the next time I took the bike out I fouled a plug trying to start her up. No rhyme or reason, just Ka-Poot.
You also had a question on the Vent lines in the air box.
The pulses in the airbox of a single or twin can be a pretty big boom to something as sensitive as carburation.
Every time the piston moves up and down their are some pretty big gulps of air rushing in to the engine and then getting stopped in it's tracks as the ports and reeds open and close. Those pulse waves also can affect the fuel in your carb.
Just like manipulating a liquid in a glass with a straw the same thing is going on in the carb bowl if the vent lines are terminated in your air box. I had run mine in the airbox also and didn't notice any changes except less dust in the vent lines.
Some more experienced riders Claimed it messed with their jetting. I now run my vent lines up along the backbone of the frame and the fuel tank. no problems...yet...
Tuck\o/
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would that discolor my oil? or affect my oil level? oil is still super clean and has not dropped at all.
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after i posed the question about the vent lines i moved them back to their stock location, though it made no difference. the reeds look great, power valves are clean and rotate easily. i need to check the flywheel key still. i can see clean through my silencer, but am unsure of the packing's condition, or how it would affect exhaust flow. but it is not obstructing it.
on a side note i welded my broken upper pipe mount right before all this happened. but i took all of the electronics off the bike first, so i don't think that it is related unless i have a bad connection now that it is back together.
i want to thank you all for all of your input. there is so much experience here on this site. i check several times a day from my phone and am posting from it now. thanks again and pray it isn't my main seal. ugh!
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You would see a drop in the tranny oil level.
Since the oil gets sucked out of the tranny and into the crankcase there is usually no other indication.
(I could actually smell the trans oil on the plug I had oil fouled.)
Tuck\o/
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Key is secure! I did notice a very small amount of oil sitting in there though. a tiny amount, just enough to feel the slick on my finger after wiping it out. maybe 2 drops? Is this normal? could that just be from the couple times that I have forgotten to pull the wash plug before trying to start it? This is about to be a can of worms, I can feel it.
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funny you mention the vent tube. the only other change i have made was routing the bowl vents up to the air box. is it possible for this to affect float levels or create some kind of pressure drop in the bowl?
routing the vent tubes thur the air box could cause it to pull vacume from the bowl which could put fuel in the air box and more fuel in the air before going into the carb.also the wasp could plug the hole up . it happens around here more than you now .
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Key is secure! I did notice a very small amount of oil sitting in there though. a tiny amount, just enough to feel the slick on my finger after wiping it out. maybe 2 drops? Is this normal? could that just be from the couple times that I have forgotten to pull the wash plug before trying to start it? This is about to be a can of worms, I can feel it.
I would do a leak down test (pressure test, vacuum test) whichever you prefer to call it. That would tell you if your seal is leaking or not. Not sure if you have done this before or have the tools but here is a link to get you started. http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,6608.0.html Hope this helps.
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would that discolor my oil? or affect my oil level? oil is still super clean and has not dropped at all.
No it won't discolor the oil , It sucks it into the crankcase , and there is almost a quart of oil in there , it doesn't take much case oil to foul the plug .CBX
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I'm working on putting together the necessary pieces to vacuum test my motor. when testing should i test with the crank in different positions? or maybe slowly rotate the crank
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I don't think it matters what position the crank is in. I've personally never done a leak down test. When I rebuild the top end I replace the crank seals as well. Keeps the down time to a minimum so I have more seat time.
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I'm working on putting together the necessary pieces to vacuum test my motor. when testing should i test with the crank in different positions? or maybe slowly rotate the crank
you have to block off the exhaust and intake to get the leak down to work . most leak down tools for this hook up to the intake side.it does not matteras the leak down will bypass the rings . now if your head gasket is leakin yo find that out too. this test is for your main seals mainly.hope this helps
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my curiosity was related to whether it would hold the vacuum if the crank was turning in the seals.
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turning the crank should make no difference in a leakdown test unless the sealing surface on the crank is in bad shape or grooved.
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I have got the same problem, but so bad that there is no way to start the engine.
Have a look at this:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9929/aaayx.jpg
Do you think the oil on the piston looks like a crank seal problem?
Arrgh.
Please save my day and say something like: "Replacing the seal takes about 5 minutes and the cases don?t have to be split."
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Have to write again.
I had my top-end removed and my crank seals are ok.
My head gasket was leaky so i had water in the crankcase, but it was clear and free of oil.
But the engine won?t start, checked everything.
:? :? :?
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Hey T,
There are five pages of troubleshooting (1st pg.) (http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/11045/thumb_Electrical_System_13-5.JPG)
http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=259&pos=12
Is there anything else that changed other than doing a top end?
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Only got the VForce3 reeds, but have already been riding with them once or twice.
Spark and timing ok.
Float valve closes.
Fuel not too old.
Jetting done with correction chart.
I guess i?ll study yout link, thx for that!
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Hi again!
I tried the stock reeds, but the same problem.
Is ist ok for the intake port and reed cage to be wringing wet after kicking?
Or could this be a carb problem?
I?ll check my float height again.
Should it be changed by bending the bracket of the float?
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Checked the float.
The conical upper tip of the valve is new and closes nice.
The float touches the lower tip of the valve at about 17-18mm, which should be not too bad if i got that right?!
I have no more ideas what to do with the bike. :?
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Hey T,
Read through this, It sounds very similar to your situation...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,6188.0.html
(Flywheel key ? C.D.I.)
I'm not sure, however you may be able to swap 250/500 c.d.i. for test.
The only thing left is flywheel/mag...
Tuck\o/
Also some float level "How To" post #3 :-D
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,7731.msg59549.html#msg59549
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Flywheel should be ok, i just replaced the nut.
I also have a strong looking spark, so i guess the magnets and statot should be ok (suggestion, i know) ?!
CDI would be bad, i have no second one to test, and i think the 250?s wouldn?t work because that one uses the throttle sensor and stuff like that.
The 250?s wiring is about thrice the wiring of the k5...
Maybe the coil fits...
If it doesn?t, i will take the bike to the dealer for troubleshooting.
Some kind of giving up, but i?m out of ideas and want to ride it again! 8-) :evil: :mrgreen:
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Not sure if this was already done, but why doesn't anyone suggest a Compression test ? It's simple, and should "almost" always be one of the first tests !
If you trashed the rings, your engine will run rich and be hard to start.
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No this hasn?t been done yet.
It feels like i have very much compression, nearly can?t kick the lever down.
Thought that couldn?t be bad?!
The only thing i really don?t know is if it?s ok for the intake port an reeds to be wringing wet after kicking several times?
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I'm not sure that anyone mentioned the other symptom of a bad clutch-side crank seal...you're exhaust will be spewing unpleasant smelling white smoke as the engine attempts to burn the transmission fluid. Sometimes the smoke is the first indication that your seal is bad.
On the wet reeds and intake, it sounds to me like too much fuel is being supplied. However, the only time I've run into a problem like this was on an LT250R Quadracer...the engine was an '85 with a hybrid case-reed/piston-port intake. When the previous owner rebuilt the top-end, they didn't chamfer the port edges very well and the piston skirt snagged the intake port. This broke off a section of the piston skirt on the intake side, which was eject out the exhaust and the engine continued to run as if nothing had happened. Problem was, as the piston moved toward bottom dead center, instead of sealing off the intake and creating positive crankcase pressure to force air/fuel up through the transfer ports for combustion, a portion of the air/fuel was getting forced back out through the intake tract soaking everything in it's path with fuel. The air filter was actually fuel soaked and a small puddle of fuel was visible in the bottom of the airbox. The fix was a better chamfer on the bottom of the intake port, cylinder honing, and a new piston kit. While I understand that this is a Kawasaki site, and the KX has reed-valve induction, I thought I'd share the info anyway, for the simple fact that more information is never a bad thing.
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No this hasn?t been done yet.
It feels like i have very much compression, nearly can?t kick the lever down.
Thought that couldn?t be bad?!
The only thing i really don?t know is if it?s ok for the intake port an reeds to be wringing wet after kicking several times?
Just because you "think" the compression "feels" good, doesn't mean it's within spec. If you own a dirt bike, you should own a compression tester. A C/T will tell you a very quick story (both good and bad) about what's going on inside your engine. This whole thread makes me laugh, as you are suspecting every component but the one that most commonly fails.... the piston and or rings. For the past 27 years, I have a method of after I purchase a fresh top end, I put about 5 hours on it, then do a compression test and write the number down for future reference. Sometimes I can run a bike for 3 or 4 years before a needed top end. So when I see the PSI has dropped substantially, I now know it's time for a new top end. I'm not saying you have a trashed top end, but what I am saying is just check the simple things FIRST.
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Makes you laugh?
Cool, maye i should work on my comedian career instead of my mechanic skills.
:roll:
My focus is on my wet intake port right now.
I still don?t know if that is ok.
Next thing is that the engine ran great till the end, maybe another indication of good piston and rings?
But sure you may be right, i guess on a k5 you don?t feel worn components like on a 125...
I?m glad that there are some things left that i can check...
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I don't think Polar Was trying to get you upset T, He was laughing no-one, (All of us) had made a suggestion to Check the compression.
There is a little lost in translation that's hard to get across. (:oops:)
Won't engines with low static compression start and run, The bikes with a compression release will start,
There wasn't any dramatic event to cause the issue, You have plenty of fuel, spark & air... It looks like you have too much fuel, But is that from attempted starting ?
I'm stuck on the timing... Even if the bike was Really rich, like soaking the silencer dribbling spooge rich, it would start and run... (albeit poorly)
I'll look for a test for the CDI, (It should be in electrical section in my Gallery)
Tuck\o/
Wiring: http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=1&pos=-1797
Specs For CDI (Testing) : http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=259&pos=20
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I know this may have been mentioned already, but here's my take on it. I have had bad plugs that will foul about half way, then run, but sputter at lower rpms. Also, summer temps and humidity often require stepping down a main jet size, and possibly turning out the air screw. Also, if it has the idle screw in too far, it holds up the slide and loads it up at lower rpms, and adds to the extra "bings" after you let off the throttle. As far as the wet petals, and intake, that is probably how it is, especially while choking. I have noticed, that if my bike does not start right normally, then the choke can flood the engine by just kicking alot. If it doesn't start right away turn off the choke. If you think its flooded twist it wide open, and if its really flooded turn off the gas. Make sure silencer is not collapsing. Its rare, but the packing can clog it up, if the center tube decays. If the floats are having trouble, you will have fuel pouring from the overflow. Be sure that the vent lines are not blocked, so they can work.
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I managed to get it running with starter spray (brake cleaner didn?t work).
Once it runs, it also runs just with fuel. :-o
I would take that as an indication of low compression, but i also found something in the ohm values.
Everything is fine, except of the primary side of the ignition coil.
Here i only got 1 Ohm instead of 31.
Guess i should buy a new coil, and also find someone with a compression tester...
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That's what sucks about probs like yours. Ignition problems exhibit the same symptoms as fuel problems. Anytime you have a problem like this you should check everything just to rule it out, even if you think theirs no way that's what could be wrong.
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Hey T,
You should be able to swap out coils on your two fifty to verify the problem.
There may be several things working against you here so don't give up!
The starting ether has a much lower flash point than the pre-mix.
I never heard of using brake cleaner for starting,( the stuff here is pretty caustic.)
I have used it to look for leaks as the engine, (I thought) would stall if it got pulled in an air leak.
There is something new to learn every day..(so much for me being stuck on the timing..Dohh! :roll:)
Hang in there Buddy!
\o/
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I also measured my 250?s coil, and the ohm values are different.
I?ll get a new coil, i?m afraid i could damage the 250?s...
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You wouldn't hurt the coil but if it is not the right one you could burn up the cdi. Either way not good.
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Guess i would have burnt it up already with my 1 Ohm coil :wink:
Anyway, i?ll order a new one this week!
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Newsflash!
The new ignition coil didn?t make any change.
Done a comression test:
Lubricated the cylinder by kicking several times with fuel in the bowl and the throttle wide open, hope that?s enough?!
Kicked with the throttle wide open again, result is about 100 to 105 psi.
What do you think?
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My rc car has more comp.
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sounds like you need to pull your topend and inspect it.
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sounds like you need to pull your topend and inspect it.
With those kind of numbers... you need to walk in the garage and make sure the top end is still on the bike. ;)
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i had a max power replate one time only produce 60 psi.
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I?ve already had my top end disassembled several times, looked not too bad to me.
The gap between cylinder and piston seemed to be ok, also played around with the feeler gauge.
So i will replace the rings.
What do you think about taking the cylinder off with the head mounted?
Head gasket...
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was the cylinder replated lately.
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No, i would like to avoid that, because it?s rather expensive in Austria.
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wow! crazy to see how this post has grown since i last looked. been busy around here and haven't had time to mess with the bike lately. haven't done anything with it yet either. too hot to ride around here. they close the woods to us for most of the summer. big fines if you get caught too. now the hunters are out there, so soon i will be back out there.
i did think of something though. my bike ran great until i started playing with my jetting. i may have put my slow jet in a bit too tight at first. ever since i can't get the pilot lean enough. i had the pilot so lean it worried me, and it was better, but still not right. so i may just keep trying. any thoughts? did i trash my carb?
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Things getting worse and worse.
New piston rings inside.
I?ve let an old wise guy have a look at the cylinder and piston and he said they are both ok.
Now i can start it with starter spay, but once it?s burnt, the engine stalls, no chance to keep it running.
New measurement: 90psi
:? :-(
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This should be easy to sort out :? Have you leak tested the engine?
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I got my coolant into the crank case because of a leaky head gasket.
Tried to start very often in this condition.
The coolant was clear and free of oil, so i guess the seals are ok?!
I also had the top end removed after replacing the gasket (for the piston ring change), with several start-tries in between, and the case was free of oil.
The next question is if the engine could have only 100psi without major visible damages on cylinder or piston?!
Piston:
http://img42.imageshack.us/i/37116426.jpg/
http://img823.imageshack.us/i/43981050.jpg/
Cylinder:
http://img814.imageshack.us/i/38083025.jpg/
http://img641.imageshack.us/i/67710335.jpg/
The only things that keeps me fron replating is the chance that the compression tester is defective and my cdi too.
Against that stands that it runs/ran with starter spray...
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The next question is if the engine could have only 100psi without major visible damages on cylinder or piston?!
What if the head gasket still leaks? Can't imagine how you came to use starter fluid. Probably a bad idea. When head gaskets leak, they pop and hesitate a bunch, barely run. If you run the motor alot, it will start looking like it got beat with a ball peen hammer in there. I would start measuring cylinder, piston and their clearances. Pay attention to rings and top of cylinder and gasket. You can usually find issues with a keen eye like where the gasket is leaking, or where the cylinder has egg-shaped itself, or rings stuck in the piston. If it won't start you need to take it apart anyway. Time to order more top-end gaskets and don't bother reassembling until you find what doesn't belong. 90 psi is a problem.
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The next question is if the engine could have only 100psi without major visible damages on cylinder or piston?!
What if the head gasket still leaks? Can't imagine how you came to use starter fluid. Probably a bad idea. When head gaskets leak, they pop and hesitate a bunch, barely run. If you run the motor alot, it will start looking like it got beat with a ball peen hammer in there. I would start measuring cylinder, piston and their clearances. Pay attention to rings and top of cylinder and gasket. You can usually find issues with a keen eye like where the gasket is leaking, or where the cylinder has egg-shaped itself, or rings stuck in the piston. If it won't start you need to take it apart anyway. Time to order more top-end gaskets and don't bother reassembling until you find what doesn't belong. 90 psi is a problem.
I am with BDI on this one. If you do a leakdown test it would show a leaking head gasket (or whatever else needs attention) & stop the assuming its only low compression because of a loose topend.
DoldGuy
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I agree with the old guy. I would like to add if you are not sure about your gauge barrow a couple from some other buddies to make a comparison to yours. If you just barrow one then you will be scratching your head wondering who's gauge is right but if you have three and two of them say the same thing,then well. or just go buy a brand new gauge and screw it on your comp tester and check all your O rings. also week spark will make the bike run just like it does when it's to rich.
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these motors will run on 90psi. But the problems is your starting it with fluid. most of the time that means you have a big air leak or carb problems. Is it easy to kick over. I would add 2 oz. off oil down the spark plug hole when the piston is at TDC and see if the compression goes up when kicking it over with the compression gauge hooked up.
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I also heard that they should run with 90psi, although this is not a good value, but it doesn?t. :-(
I checked everything x-times, the whole intake section for leaks, reeds (vforce and stock), jetting with chart, float, ohm-readings (also had a defective ignition coil, so it would be possible that it did damage to my cdi), ...
I have very much resistance on the kicker, but i heard this can be an indication ow low compression too?!
The surfaces of cylinder and head, where the head gasket is, look good and the gasket is new.
I also don?t lose coolant any more, and if i drain it it is clear.
Well, nothing but suggestion.
I will look for a second compression tester or another cdi to check.
Then thinking about splitting or re-plating. :x
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Wanna sell it? :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Yes, the market-price of metal is not too bad at the moment! :-D :-D :-D
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Hi!
I just got my cylinder back from the re-plating.
The surface looks very rough:
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6223/bild003q.jpg
I?m wondering if they just honed it without re-plating, but i also heard worn coatings have a look of shiny yellow?
Would you say that cylinder looks re-plated?
(Unfortunately i don?t have measurement values...)
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Cylinder looks fine. The cross hatch is supposed to be there. It holds oil for lubricating the piston and rings. Put in a new piston & rings and try it out.
Looks like new plating to me. Are the gouges/scratches still there on the intake side close to the top of the cylinder? http://img814.imageshack.us/i/38083025.jpg/
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No they aren?t:
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/4737/bild001ou.jpg
I?ll put the old piston with new rings in for testing.
Would you say a compression test after the assembly, when the parts are lubricated with the 2-stroke oil, is meaningful?
Or would the compression be always good because of the thick oil?
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~100psi, again.
Leakdown test:
The engine holds the under pressure rather good, but when i wiggle the flywheel it decreases faster.
Splitting...
btw, a ktm 144sx piston works nice for sealing the k5?s exhaust port :wink:
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With a new plating on the cylinder I wouldn't run that old piston. It has already been formed for the old plating and wont have the right clearance all the way around. probably egg shaped and causing some of your compression issues. It's best to use a new piston & rings with new cylinder plating.
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Sure a new piston would be better, the old one is just for testing.
But i don?t think the old piston could cause my compression problem when coating and rings are new?!
I?m also afraid the seal isn?t the solution, because when i did the compression test i put a large amount of grease on the seal so it couldn?t suck (much) air.
It didn?t make any difference... :?
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Sure a new piston would be better, the old one is just for testing.
But i don?t think the old piston could cause my compression problem when coating and rings are new?!
I?m also afraid the seal isn?t the solution, because when i did the compression test i put a large amount of grease on the seal so it couldn?t suck (much) air.
It didn?t make any difference... :?
Curious... whats your ring end gap?
are you sure the ring lands were clean? free of burs? proper spec? this could cause a re-occuring issue when using the old piston...
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I haven?t measured the gap, can do this when i have dismantled the engine again.
I?m not planning to run the engine long with the old piston, but it has to run first...
Is it maybe possible that the 100psi are standard for not broken in coating and rings?
Guess i still won?t be able to start the engine with that value...
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Measuring the Ring Gap
'83-'86 0.20-0.40 mm or 0.008" - 0.016" (new) Service limit 0.07 mm or 0.028"
'87 -'04 0.15-0.35 mm or 0.006" to 0.014 (new) Service limit is also 0.7mm or 0.028"
Put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down about 1/2 inch from the top evenly spaced.
( Start the ring in the cyl by hand & then use the top of the piston to push the ring where you want it in the bore. This should have gotten you pretty close to having the ring squared up in the cyl.)
Now use a feeler gauge to measure the width of the ring gap.
This info is from the Clymer pg. 174 table 6
If you have to open up the gap, a small ignition file and patience are in order, work slowly. You don't want to chip any edges of the area your filing. (most of the rings have coating and will Chip if you push too hard with the file or stone)
Squeeze the gap closed and make sure the ring faces meet squarely.
I take emery cloth and lightly run around the rings edges and piston groove to remove any possible burrs from the cutting/machining process. You're not trying to sand the down the corners, so easy does it.
Here is a link to a great write up with help from Mr. Do or Die, ( DoorDie one of our members) from 2005, http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/
Tuck\o/
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Measuring the Ring Gap
'83-'86 0.20-.040 mm or 0.008" - 0.016" (new) Service limit 0.07 mm or 0.028"
'87 -'04 0.15-0.35 mm or 0.006" to 0.014 (new) Service limit is also 0.7mm or 0.028"
Put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down about 1/2 inch from the top evenly spaced. Start the ring in the cyl by hand & then use the top of the piston to push the ring where you want it in the bore. This should have gotten you pretty close to having the ring squared up in the cyl.
Now use a feeler gauge to measure the width of the ring gap.
This info is from the Clymer pg. 174 table 6
If you have to open up the gap, a small ignition file and patience are in order, work slowly. You don't want to chip any edges of the area your filing. close the gap and make sure the ring faces meet squarely.
I take emery cloth and lightly run around the rings edges and piston groove to remove any possible burrs from the cutting/machining process. You're not trying to sand the down the corners, so easy does it.
Here is a link to a great write up with help from Mr. Do or Die, ( DoorDie one of our members) from 2005, http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/
Tuck\o/
Another old timer trick... a OLD ring broke in half... works as a great ring land cleaning tool/scraper...
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Yep, Another good tip Mo-Rad,
There is also a ring land / piston measurement to take. Click on the thumbnail, bottom left of page.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/service%20repair%20maitenance/th_Piston4-16thru4-215.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/Friar-Tuck/service%20repair%20maitenance/?action=view¤t=Piston4-16thru4-215.jpg)
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Ring gap is 0,22mm.
I will do the bottom end rebuild (which will take a year or so) first, everything else would be non-essential right now...