KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: 5004life on March 06, 2010, 12:05:19 PM
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ok im goin to putting my kx 5hundy together here soon ...i took the powervalve apart to clean it and for some reason didnt pay attention to how it was put together lol but i have a manual and put it back together jus like it said and for some reason it doessent look right so i took some pics of it to see wat ur guys opinion on it was ......and also would synthetic amsoil grease work for lubing the powervalve parts?
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fully closed position with the rod pushed all the way in (http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2010%5C03%5C06%5Cbikepics-1920120-800.jpg)
fully open position with the rod all the way out (http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2010%5C03%5C06%5Cbikepics-1920121-800.jpg)
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yeah they look ok
i assume the timing marks are line up exactly? the flywheel side kips valve will look wrong on the closed position
this is due to 87 valves being identical but fitted to different sides
the recomended grease for the kips is molybdenum dilsulfide grease
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thanx man i have been wondering about that valve for a while ...but where do i get this grease? my local moto shop recommended this waterproof bel ray grease but idk and we got the amsoil grease where i work.. for cheap
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I THINK YOUR PV TIMING IS OUT,JUST HAD A GANDER AT MY 86 AND WHEN THE ROD IS ALL THE WAY IN,YOU CANNOT SEE THE HOLE IN THE VALVE ON THE FLYWHEEL SIDE.WHEN THE ROD IS OUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE THROUGH THE VALVES INTO THE BARREL.HTH.
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i wouldnt know how thats possible i have the notches on the valves lined up directly with the notches on the rod
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if they are open when the rod is out I wouldnt worry too much, maybe the pics were at a different angle than i thought.
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thanx man i have been wondering about that valve for a while ...but where do i get this grease? my local moto shop recommended this waterproof bel ray grease but idk and we got the amsoil grease where i work.. for cheap
last time i put in valves i used copper grease spray [ not as thick as tub] should be very easy to get
i put a small bit of standard grease on kips rod output seal
i cant see a problem using it but any opinions welcome
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thanx for your help
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so i take it nobody objects the idea of using regular wolfs head red grease for my powervalve?
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so i take it nobody objects the idea of using regular wolfs head red grease for my powervalve?
The guys that wrote the Kawasaki factory service manual do.
They call for a molybdenum disulfide grease. Much better suited for the high temperatures in that area of the engine.
Larry
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so i take it nobody objects the idea of using regular wolfs head red grease for my powervalve?
The guys that wrote the Kawasaki factory service manual do.
They call for a molybdenum disulfide grease. Much better suited for the high temperatures in that area of the engine.
Larry
where do i get it and is there a brand name i should search for
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i think the moly grease your looking is used in cv joints of cars
this i the copper grease spray i used [did not have a manual at the time] its got added graphite for even better lubrication ,
we used to use copper grease in excavator hydraulic breakers, now they use moly grease as a cheaper option
anybody see any problems in using this,
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thank u
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you probably better using the recommended grease
if u do a google search on the moly grease it will give u loads of info on the grease and where to get,
i live i the UK so u probadly have different brands to there in the US
i though the copper grease spray was a good option for me cos my 88 valves were pretty worn and thought they could be expose to a little more heat ,
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not trying to be an a$$ or anything but why does it even matter any grease is gonna melt and run off eventually and the lube in the fuel should take over then
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kawi calls for moly there b/c of its high heat resistance, +1500?F. My tube came from Honda :roll: ask for it at the red dealer, u can recognize moly by its very distinct odor.
My personal opinion would be to do it right the first time with factory specified lubricants, but as mentioned, after running awhile the exhaust spooge of burnt 2stroke oil lubes some. They told you to just use BR grease, b/c thats what they had available to sell you. 4oz tube of moly might cost as much as two, 1lb tubs of the blue stuff. I guess bottom line.....the wrong grease is better than none at all :mrgreen:
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on that note, I just remembered lightly coating pv parts with H1R, the last time I did a parking lot top end and only had track box with very limited chemicals :-D
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not trying to be an a$$ or anything but why does it even matter any grease is gonna melt and run off eventually and the lube in the fuel should take over then
the copper grease i used is not going to melt until +2000"f ,
dont think the lube in fuel is going to lube powervales, gears ,bushes [ except for slightly around exhaust sub ports]
i would not use any grease less than molygrease quality [ie any gease with a melting point below 1500f]
melting boiling grease is probabaly going to do more harm than good
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melting point? :lol:
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melting point? :lol:
what do u call it when grease overheats and turn to liquid?
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:lol:I knew what you meant! Just razzing. Technically, melting point is when things turn from solid to liquid. Not sure if you can apply that to an amorfious substance like grease, toothpaste, or ketchup( catsup). Thermal breakdown, or viscus change maybe? Again, I knew what you meant, just having fun :roll:
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:lol:I knew what you meant! Just razzing. Technically, melting point is when things turn from solid to liquid. Not sure if you can apply that to an amorfious substance like grease, toothpaste, or ketchup( catsup). Thermal breakdown, or viscus change maybe? Again, I knew what you meant, just having fun :roll:
try a google search : melting grease :-D :-D
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gave me moly links :lol: