KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kawdude on February 22, 2004, 04:07:19 AM
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Where would one go to buy a rebound spacer for the KX rear shock. I've seen pics that show a .5" thick white plastic spacer to limit the shock rebound. I just don't know where to buy or if I can make it. My goal is to lower the bike.
Thanks!
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Here is what I have done in the past. Leave the shock alone, and change the drag link (often called dog bone). If you take a look under your suspension, you will find that there are two arms bolted to the swing arm just in from of the tire and extend frontward to the shock linkage. If you make a new matched set of these arms, you can modify the height of the rear of your bike. Start by making a set ? inch longer than the originals. If this still does not do the trick, add or subtract a little on the next set until you get the desired result. Also, since the bolts do not turn in the holes, I have never installed brass inserts, but I know other folks who have fashioned brass inserts. Keep in mind that you will also need to push more of the front fork through the top triple clamp to keep the bike balances.
In order to make sure you have a matched set, drill your first hole in each bar (either together in a drill press vice or separately), and bolt the two bars together through the first hole. Drill the second hole as one unit, and then round the ends of the bars on a belt sander while still bolted together. Use aluminum stock the same thickness as the stock bars to ensure you will have sufficient strength.
As a note, some folks choose to lower the rear by loosening the spring. This only serves to ruin any chance of having rear suspension that is works at speed.
Good luck
Rick
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Make sure you leave enough meat on the ends where the bolt goes through.I know a guy who had them to thin there after making a set and the bolt streached the eye of the dog bone out.So he wedged a stick in the swing arm to hold the back of the bike up so he could limp back and was checking it so often,well the chain started to rub the stick and it caught on fire.He said he felt it starting to get warm,then saw the flames!Stoped and threw dirt on it,but the plastic had already caught on fire and it was all over.Watched his bike burn to the ground and walked out.
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Ouch! :shock: Now that's an ugly story!
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This sounds like a plan. I can't loosen the rear spring because I'm about 270 with gear. This does bring up several questions...
Where does one get aluminum to fab this especially at this thickness?
I don't have the bones at my house. How thick are they so I can buy the flat stock...3/8"?
What size holes need to be drilled? Just make it close?
If I want the brass bushings where could I find these or would you just make them?
How much lower will the bike be with a half inch longer bone...
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Wow, that's a lot of questions: Let me see if I can answer some of them at least:
Thickness - 3/8 is going to be pretty close. I will try and remember to measure them tonight or at lunch time. You don't have to have the exact same thickness, just close.
Where to purchase - I would start with a local machine shop, as they make a lot of parts out of aluminum, so should have some aluminum stock around. I buy a lot of my aluminum from the local scrap yard, as they have it segregated so I can spend five minutes looking through bins for anything that might be of use.
Holes - These are important, and must be right. You will have to measure your stock holes to make sure you get the right drill bit, and might need to purchase a drill bit from the local hardware store to have the right size. This is an important step, so worth the $10 on a new drill bit to be sure. As for your particular size, I'm not sure if Kawasaki changed the link bolts over the years, but my thought is that these have changed. To be sure, take off your bones and take them with you to the hardware store. Test fit the butt end of the drill bit into the holes until you find the right size. Don't try and use a tape measure...remember, this step is important.
Brass bushings - you can make the brass bushings easily enough by just using brass pipe from the local plumbing supply house. You will probably have to purchase pipe with the inside a little smaller than the bolt and then drill to fit after the bushing is installed. You will also need to purchase a second drill bit that is just smaller than the outside of the brass pipe to ensure you have a good press fit. The process is to slice off a section of brass pipe that is just thicker than the aluminum stock, press into the aluminum, and carefully file or sand the excess material from the inside of the aluminum. The first set you make should be without the brass inserts (if you choose to install), as they probably are not going to work anyway. If they do work, you can just redrill the holes for the brass inserts and press away.
How much lower - Well, that kind of depends. Are we talking about initial height change, or change with you in the saddle? For initial height change under the bikes own weight, you can check this by placing the bike on a stand with the rear wheel suspended. Take an initial measurement between the axle and the fender. Remove the bolt through the swing arm side of the dog bone. Support the rear well with blocks of wood or other material until the alignment on the dog bone hole is 1/2 inch offset. Remeasure your axle to fender and just do the math. If we are talking about difference under weight, this depends upon a lot of factors like correct spring rate for your weight; static and race sage settings; your riding position, etc. As a result, this is somewhat trial and error, which is why I think your first set of bones will be wrong, but send you in the right direction.
Well, how did I do for answers?
Rick
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Excellent as always. Thank you for your time and I apologize for all the questions.
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I am having trouble finding a drill bit for this. 9/16" is too small and 5/8" is too big and seems too loose. Does anyone know if there are bit sizes between these two. The sets that I've been looking at only have common sizes and I think there maybe weird sizes available but I don't know where.
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Look for a 15MM drill bit, MAY be able to find it at Sears or a Harbor Frieght
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Aaah! a metric bit. I didn't know they made one.
Not having much luck finding a supplier for metric bits.
I called Sears and the may have the correct SAE size. That size would be .0032 larger than a 15mm according to the following charts. I'll give it a shot!
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I found the attached sizing charts and will use according. I'm putting this info out for future reference and also suggest it's placed in the FAQ's. :idea:
Look for a 15MM drill bit, MAY be able to find it at Sears or a Harbor Frieght
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Another attachment listing bolt, tap, and hole tolerances.
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I'll add it to the computer toys ;)
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Cool. Sears and Harbor Freight do not have the right size bit. I'll keep looking.
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Well guys the bit size that is needed is a 15mm or 19/32" and finding one has been impossible. The good news is I found one in a coffee can buried in the local scrap yard. It a rusty piece of crap but at least the right size. Drilled the holes adding 5/8" to the length. WAY TOO much but a good test. I would say that increase in the dog bones lowered the seat by 4+ inches. I will make another set and add 3/8" of an inch to see what that does.
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Try www.koubalink.com I'm pretty sure that their KLX650 "Bones" will do the trick.
Manny
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Find a good machinist. I have a buddy who makes them for me, he usually charges me about $40.00 bucks, but that is the buddy deal. I go shorter to make the bike turn better. Pro Circuit sell shorter ones for $80.00 I belive. MIne are nice CNC type parts. I may be able to con my buddy into making you some, just need to know how much shorter you want them.
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That's the problem. I don't know how long to make them. My first try was about 5/8" extension and that lowered to the point of dragging the tire on the fender. I suppose the next set will be 3/8" extension to see if this meets my needs.
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This weekend I made couple of these dogbones trying to test what length is needed. I believe the best one for me was to increase the stock length by .25 inches. This appeared to lower the bike by two inches. Now I need to dial in the spring.
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With this lowering project completing, is there a process to "balance" the front and the rear suspension.
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Yup, same as before you lowered the suspension.
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Ok but isn't that process just for ride hight of rear? Is there a separate process to match that hight of the rear to the front. See I have lowered the triples on the forks. I can do a search within the forum but I don't know what the search term would be. I'll start with suspension and see what happens. Thank for your help.
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Oops, misunderstood your question. Don't think I have ever dealt with changing the ride height in the front before, so I'll do it now.
As a general rule, if you lower the rear one inch, you should lower the front the same amount. This will keep the front and rear of the bike in the same aspect as before. The simplest way to lower the front is to raise the forks above the top tripple clamp.
As for balance in the suspension, as a general rule, if you take the bike of the stand, put your foot on either foot peg and push down, the front and rear of the bike should both go down at the same rate and the return to the extended position at somewhat the same rate. That's the general rule, and adjustment to even the front and rear is done with the adjustment screws first (assuming you have springs that are correct for your weight in both front and rear. There is a lot that goes into balancing the suspension, and the fast your ride, the less you rely on balance the front and rear as tje bike sits idle. However, this is a great way to start with a new bike before you begin to adjust anything.
Rick
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Thanks for the help!