KX Riders

Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: rdcjohn on February 06, 2004, 01:38:30 PM

Title: Clutch
Post by: rdcjohn on February 06, 2004, 01:38:30 PM

I installed new levers and clutch cable tonight and the clutch is super hard to pull in. I never remember a bike ever this hard even riding my dads big 2 strokes growing up. Any advice? When I bought it, it had a white bros easy clutch mechanism on the cable but it was beat up so I did away with it.

Title: Clutch
Post by: teamgreen500 on February 06, 2004, 04:37:30 PM

Somebody, in all their wisdom, may have installed some heavy clutch springs?

Manny

Title: Clutch
Post by: mikesmith on February 06, 2004, 09:42:28 PM

Cable routing,lubing the cable(even if its new), extending the clutch arm,running a CR type lever positioned for most leverage made mine pull lighter than some 250's.

Title: Clutch
Post by: rdcjohn on February 07, 2004, 04:32:33 PM

I have got bigger issues now, No matter how much I adjusted the cable it would not release the rear wheel with it in 1st gear and me pushing it back and forth in the garage.. I have no clue what is going on now, I adjusted both adjusters to the max then back down slowly.

Title: Clutch
Post by: mikesmith on February 08, 2004, 07:27:01 AM

Did the clutch work before you removed the "easy clutch"?Maybe the "easy clutch" gave you a little more adjustment on a almost worn out clutch,by removing it you dont have enough adjustment left.Try it with it on,most likely your clutch is shot and that just helped squeeze the last bit of life out of it.

Title: Try this
Post by: kawdude on February 08, 2004, 07:29:18 AM

How about putting some vicegrips on the lever in front of the sprocket and see if that makes the clutch engage.  If it does then you know where the problem lies...

Title: Clutch
Post by: rdcjohn on February 09, 2004, 03:59:49 PM

Here is another question now. Should I be able to put it in first gear and pull the clutch and have it push around as if it was in nuetral or should it be very difficult to push and sound like I am trying to jump it?

Title: Clutch
Post by: mikesmith on February 09, 2004, 08:57:08 PM

Mine has some drag in first gear with the clutch in,but if I push it or coast down a hill its not going to turn the engine over.It's not going to freewheel like neutral or not in gear.

Title: Clutch
Post by: Rick on February 10, 2004, 06:06:41 AM

You don't want to rely on just pulling in the clutch with the engine not running as the diagnosis, as the clutch plates will stick together with the engine off after the clutch pack has been release by pulling in the clutch.  You'll have to start her up to check on to see if the clutch pack is releaseing.  

The other advise on getting a smooth clutch pull is correct.  I use a Fly adjustable lever, as it has a Honda ratio and bearings in the pivot.  With the Fly lever and stock clutch cable, no modifications to the clutch arm are required.

Good luck

Rick

Title: Clutch
Post by: Sharc on February 10, 2004, 07:49:14 AM

Sounds cool.. Where do you get Fly perch/levers...?

Sharc

Title: Clutch
Post by: gwcrim on February 10, 2004, 08:07:49 AM

I'm not saying this is the culprit, but did you thoroughly lube your new cable?

Title: Clutch
Post by: rdcjohn on February 10, 2004, 09:33:48 AM

What should I lube it with? Thank you for all of your help. The bike is officially back together. I just need to ride it now. I will try and get a pic

Title: Clutch
Post by: mikesmith on February 10, 2004, 08:27:15 PM

Rocky Mtn has a cable luber for $12.99 and lube for $4.59.Or use a can of Tri-Flow,elevate the end of the disconnected cable,make a funnel out of tape, fill it with lube and let gravity do its thing.You can get a adjustable lever/perch from Fly Racing,Works Connection or Pro Circuit,be leary of the cheaper lever.My pivot bolt for the lever bearing must be made of butter!Veary cheap!.Why not lengthen the lever for no money and a little work,unless you have to pay a welder. And even then?

Title: Clutch
Post by: Rick on February 11, 2004, 01:42:38 AM

Yup, the cheaper Fly lever with the little spring steel piece that engages the adjuster is not the right ticket.  The lever that uses the ball bearings in the adjuster is the right lever.  However, you must remove the allen screws and add loctite, as these little guys will back out drop the spring and ball on the ground.

Rick

Title: Clutch
Post by: gwcrim on February 15, 2004, 07:59:46 AM

I just dangle mine from the ceiling and drip motor oil down in over the course of a few days.

Title: Clutch
Post by: mikesmith on February 15, 2004, 08:48:49 AM

I see Rocky Mtn has a second cable luber in the catalog made by Tusk for $7.99.

Title: Clutch
Post by: Rick on February 17, 2004, 02:53:25 AM

I use a cable lube tool I have had around for about 9 years, so have no idea who manufactured, but they are al built about the same.  Once installed, I use carb clearner and spray through the cable to clean it out.  Using an air hose, I spray into the lube hole made for the little red hose from the can to help the carb cleaner flash.  I then spray with WD40 until it is coming out the bottom.  Finally, I use only stock cables, as I have found them to outlast after market cables I have tried, and I usually replace my cables about every 12-18 months.

Rick