KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kawdude on February 04, 2004, 03:25:22 PM
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All,
I'd like to ask everyone's opinion on the topic of drive chains. My hope is that this will be good reference for others to get there answers.
In another month or so I will need to replace the chain (and sprockets..no aluminum) on my bike. In doing a search of several part houses online I've become really more confused on what chain should be used on the bike. Vendors sell standard chains, oring chains, xring chains, gold and silver chains, etc. What should one look for in a chain. Tensil strenght, I assume the larger the number the longer it will last?!? What about the wear index number that I've seen somewhere. Basically I want a chain that will last.
In past experience, I had a Suzuki GS750 and never had to do anything with the chain. Of course this was huge fricken chain that you could run a combine with and I don't think I ever had to tighten it. Later I had a GS700 which had a smaller chain and I was always fooling with it. Stretched a lot and made a lot of noise and I believe this was an Oring chain but still screwed with it a lot.
Please shed some light on this subject for me!
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Let's put it this way...
My RK o-rings outlast most everything-else on my bikes....
Manny
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Ditto on Manny's post. When I bought my latest K5 last year, I put the RK O-ring on as soon as I got it home.
Dan
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Same here - RK O-Ring lasts a loooong time. I got a DID 520 X-Ring this time (cuz it's GOLD....!!). That and steel sprockets F and R with about 15 days riding both look brand new - pretty amazing for a fat 500 2-stroke....
Sharc
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I'm also due for a new chain, definitely an O or X ring. Did any of you have to get a spacer for the front sprocket to prevent the chain from rubbing the case?
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Thanks for feedback! I've never used an RK chain but certainly can if ya'll recommend it. What about the tensile strength, material (stainless). wear rating. Is there really a difference?
Which RK chain is being recommended? They seem to have a couple oring chains.
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It's pure and simple on the KX500 really, a good strong chain and STEEL sprockets. Those pretty aluminum sissy 250 and below sprockets maybe needed for those lower powered bikes but a couple ounces don't mean a thing to an aluminum sprocket wrecking 500 :lol:
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It's pure and simple on the KX500 really, a good strong chain and STEEL sprockets. :lol:
I totally agree. Using aluminum junk is nuts on the big5 but what makes a good strong chain???
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I think MOST name brand are good enough, I change it when i change sprockets. HOWEVER... A friend of mine owns a shop close to my house and sells a 520 O-Ring for $9 a foot - hey sells it off the roll - and it is a solid quality chain, no idea who makes it though.
Makes that thing about $58 for a 114 links.
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Yup, RK an steel is the only way to go...
Rick
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I find the Tsubaki chain to be quite a bit better that the RKs I have used, although they cost way more. Seem to handle sand abraision better. I normally run the best Tsubaki I can buy and use cheap steel sprockets.
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Okay so when I decide on a chain should I go to the oring or xring or no oring.
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Steel sprockets! D.I.D. or RK O-ring or X-ring.
I prefer X-ring myself. By design you have 2 lips to keep dirt out and 2 lips to keep the factory lube inside. I am not religious enough at chain maintenance to run a standard chain.
John
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Twisty's right - O or X. RK or DID. I love the RK's. Got the DID this time cuz it's gold. Couldnt find the RK O or X in gold...
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I have to give another vote for an Rk O or X ring. I have two years on my currant one, and will get at least one more season out of it.
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hello,
when going to a spacer on the (inboard)front sprocket, how are you able to clip in the c-clip on the outside of the shaft, i'd like to do this as i don't want any futher rub on my case., thanks, jdv
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Since we're on the chain topic here maybe you guys can educate me a bit too... I heard that O-ring chains(dunno about X-ring) are not good for sand riding and since I will probably do most of my riding at the dunes what would you recommend for me? I'm sure it would still be an RK or DID and steel sprokets... but do I just run a standard chain? The chain that came on the bike is a renthal... appears to be standard type chain(no obvious O-rings or anything) that is gold in color. I also just noticed that I also have wear on my case so need info in that area too.
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GDubb,
I'm sure the sand guys will have more direct experience on this. For me, O-rings keep the sand out and sand inside the chain is bad. Really bad. Cam.
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Thats kinda what I thought too, but then I heard someone somewhere in either another post or another forum say something about sand eating the O-rings so I thought I would run it by all the moto-genius' here at Pitbull since you guys always seem to straighten things out. I trust you guys and take everything else I hear elsewhere with a grain of salt.
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trying to write this again,
as for chains , buyers beware, there are several 520 size chains out there that are only rated for 125/250/300cc off-road, as this cc or larger on-road would meet or exceed the design limits.
what you must watch for is the tensile strength and wear life rating regardless of price, brandname or friends advise... many sites i've seen will show an in-depth chart of chain capabilities. for you guys who have bought a used bike or at the point of replacing the stocker, do your homework in this area.
i read above someone has said that a o/x-ring chain may be a bad thing in the sand., quite the opposite actually, the sand that bonds itself to the outer layer of grease has just increased the shielding layer against penetration. for almost 20 yrs now we have been using this practice in all our aircraft as directed in our tech manuals. o-rings and internal grease captured in pin reliefs are commonplace. as for non o-ring chains in sand or anywhere, is a no-go...they offer nothing but a cheap subsitute at best,and short lived. there is no barrier at all in these chains after the initial shipping grease is slung away.
small micro sand bits can and will get into the pin bore, get crushed even smaller and then be capable of getting into smaller places, super abrasive. this is the fastest way to wear something other then acid etching that i know of. we're dealing with higher pressures then most other bikes and so the minimum standard is higher as far as reliability go's.you there riding in loose sand will not stress a chain as someone who runs motard-street or hillclimbs.
the only downside to a ringed chain is it's drag and rolling resistance, but this is no issue on a 5 is it.? they are pricey, but they will last the life of the bike. lastly, pay attention to your chain free play. too tight a chain, even on a strong chain at that will stress the chain and fatigue a drive gear/s or elongate the bores..
have'nt you ever heard the guy who cracked his rear sprocket lugs by a too tight of chain, adjust your chain while the swingarm is in a true centerline thru the pivot and counter gear shaft., lastly an ATV chain in 520 size is completely different size, (atv specific) it will fit in the teeth pattern but is much wider and taller then a motorcycle 0 link, not a good choice for our 5's, it may hit your countershaft housing,deflector plate and the nylon guide that cradles your rear gear.. mine did-previous owner. atv chains require this additional mass due to their tires having such a large footprint on the ground, 2 contact patches biting., it takes more to spin them, torque-wise.
be sure to spray and wash the chain at the end of your day, lubing the rings and rollers, white lit grease is great for the rollers, but you need a thinner type of chain lube to keep the o-rings moist, imagine a dry wiper blade on your windshield vrs a wet one wiping. also helping to avoid drying the rings out.your ready for next weekend.
** know the chains design limits before you swipe your card....i've learned from the many charts that for our bike it needs to be at 8,100 lbs or greater.
my local dealer was trying to sell me a sweet looking gold rk chain 120 links for $118, i told him i'd be back, went home , did the research on that very chain by part number and found it to be rated for 250/300cc off-road only...so, i found and now own a did-vm, gold, x-ring 120 link, for $68 online, rated at 750cc street, no clearance issues at the counter shaft at all. thanks and enjoy, jdv, pics pg-6
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I second the question posed by member SLEEZ concerning case scoring due to tight 520 o-ring chain clearance at countershaft sprocket.
SLEEZ states,
"I'm also due for a new chain, definitely an O or X ring. Did any of you have to get a spacer for the front sprocket to prevent the chain from rubbing the case?
I ask this clearance/spacer question also as i bought a junk K500 with sotck Countershaft 14 tooth sprocket that had o-ring 520 chain that ripped into case above sprocket from 10 oclock to 2 oclock respectively.
I think you must run a 15 tooth sprocket if you go with a 520 o-ring chain on K500 to avoid case-chain interference/rubbing??
Does anybody have rubbing marks?please advise
I wish to run same o-ring type chain on my 94KX250--Do I need to use a spacer or a 15 tooth sprocket to avoid interference??
Please advise--
PS I dont think there is room for spacer as no play in C sprocket, but only option is to mill sprocket or flip it if it is offcenter type.
Please answer SLEEZ and My Question and advise.
Thanks
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mine rub with a 14 sprocket and oring chian but has not caused any problems
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mine rub with a 14 sprocket and oring chian but has not caused any problems
Ditto, mine rubed for years on on my 1990 K-5 and has been rubing every since I built a whole new engine a couple of years ago. I just went and looked at my old cases from my 1990 the rub mark isn't even 0.5mm deep and the portion of the case that the chain rubs on is the outer area that the counter shaft bearing presses into this area is as thick as the bearing. I cannot see it causing a problem unless the rubing is extraordinary.If thats the case you have bigger problems to address
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or run a 87 input shaft. or input shaft mod.
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I didn't really have a problem but I spaced my sprocket outwards with a shim, then used a lathe to cut a same size pocket in the front side of the sprocket. This way the whole sprocket is moved outwards. I didn't worry about rear sprocket alignment and never noticed any wear. Pics in my gallery. Cam.
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Not sure about the rubbing issue but I highly reccomend a DID 520 X-Ring and sunstar steel sprockets.
and I 2nd the post that said an o-ring or and X-ring is BETTER in the sand than a traditional, I ride most of the time in sand dunes and have gone through sprockets but my chain is in tack, and doesn't stretch near as bas as a stocker.
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kxer if you are using a worn chain with new sprockets no wonder you are going through spockets. ft sprocket-rear sprocket and chain should all be changed as a set. i would inspect that chain closer you are sure to find some discrepencies.
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I agree and disagree with you KXnut. If I were to replace an entire gear set say once a season sure, all should be changed with wear.
But I change my gearing almost as much as I change my chonies LoL. I will adjust the chain accordingly of course, but I have never found it necessary to buy a new chain with every new sprocket set.
I am a bit of a maintenace freak, and I am fully aware of the condition my chain is in, I usually replace parts before it is necessary so I have spares in an emergency.
T
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I also don't change as a set, at least as a rule. Last year my CS was looking a bit worn so I replaced only it. Chain and rear looked good. Also may depend on the material. An OEM aluminum rear sprocket will wear much faster than a good quality chain. Heck I just put the ancient but high quality chain from my KX on my new CRF since it measures out better. Thats a 12 year only chain on new OEM aluminum sprocket. Plan to get one or maybe two more seasons out of it. Then I will likely replace the whole set with a new X-ring. Cam.
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The R-K x-ring chain is nearly indestructable. I find it pairs nicely with my Renthal sprockets with minimum wear or adjustments. Albeit, it's on a 250 but it's the strongest chain I have come across.
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I almost always changed out as a set. But, I'd usally do 1 change out per bike, most of the sets last me the bikes life (at least its life with me)