KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: stewart on September 08, 2009, 02:21:46 PM
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if you dont see this in the engine mod section there is a working compresion release set up for the k5.it makes a high comprsion motor start like a pussy cat or a 125 larry wiechman from this site did this mod on one of my high compresion heads great job and works even better
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Stewart,
That is nice work. I sure like that one better than the one that goes in the cylinder wall. Is there a machining spot in the water jacket or did he create a passage thru the water jacket. Cool. Thats more like my old euro bikes that had a 2nd plug hole so you could run a compression release in the cylinder head. Cam.
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there is no machining in the water jacket...much better than the cylinder with a hole set up
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I'd have to agree with both of you, that I like this alot better than the idea of running one into the cylinder. Looks like some clean work too. I guess I'll be the first to say it: Any price yet, Larry?
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Anyone figure out how to make one work with a desert tank yet?
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Yeah........... where were you guys with this last year when I had a big old hole bored in my jug??????? :-( :-( :-( :-(
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Stewart show us a picture of the top and side of the head.
Serafin
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Anyone figure out how to make one work with a desert tank yet?
I knew that was coming. That's a good question!
I don't have one locally to look at. Can you send me clear, closeup views of all sides of the head/tank area?
Larry
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Larry I sent you a e-mail.
I have the clarke 3.9 gal and I have room on the kick starter side by the head stay.
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Anyone figure out how to make one work with a desert tank yet?
I knew that was coming. That's a good question!
I don't have one locally to look at. Can you send me clear, closeup views of all sides of the head/tank area?
Larry
Well I guess the real question would be.... can the compression release be placed anywhere on the Head that is between a stud and water passage?
If that is the case, Us desert tank guys could hang them off the back of the head... and just have to reach for them (yet another inconvinience to add to the list of deasert tanks)
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I sent Larry some pics. I am pretty sure you can put it on the kick start side ,back by the head stay. I have the big 3.9 clarke and it blocks everything. Also the choke on the 44mm lectron is on the kick side any way.
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Muleman,
Great photos, looks like it will work. Is that a Goodson valve? Nice piece, looks like it's all stainless. Might be a bit longer than the saw units.
Larry
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I never thought I could be sold on the comp release. Who ever it was that came up with that is a real thinker. I like it and I would have one on my bike for sure.
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I like the idea of having it behind the head as it will makE it hidden. Making me look all that more manly when my budys try to start it without one.
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Unless one of your Buddies happen to be our member BennieBen :-D
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I like the idea of having it behind the head as it will makE it hidden. Making me look all that more manly when my budys try to start it without one.
Start it with your arm and be a real hero. :evil:
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Could someone post more pictures of this. I would love to install one on my Isetta, since the electric starter is very weak and the compression is at 7-1. This release would allow me to boost the compression way up.
Thanks in advance. John
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I like the idea of having it behind the head as it will makE it hidden. Making me look all that more manly when my budys try to start it without one.
Start it with your arm and be a real hero. :evil:
yeah the valve is all ss. I got it from a guy that does them on the cr500's. He just put one in a cr500 for my buddy and it kick so easy I can use my arm lol.
Any idea how much to install.
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This is the kind they use on the old kick harleys
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/decomp.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/decomp1.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/decomp2.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/decomp3.jpg)
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ran compression release today no problems after a mile wide open sevral times
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Do you manually switch it from start mode to run mode, or is it automatic ?
Who sells these ?
John
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just push it in then when the motor starts it auto seals ..very simple
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ran compression release today no problems after a mile wide open sevral times
Looks like we're good to go. I just ordered 12 valves, they should be here in about 4 days. Cost to modify your head will be $125 + shipping (about $7), complete with valve, ready to bolt on the bike.
Anyone interested?
Larry Wiechman
6222 Elevator Rd.
Roscoe, IL 61073
815-623-8940
wiechman@charter.net
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Me :-D
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Me once I figure out where I can put it to clear the tank
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Me once I figure out where I can put it to clear the tank
Muleman is going to be the test case for the big tank version. Look at his pictures above, is it the same setup you have?
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if this will work with the big clarke tank then im in for sure. which tank do you have muleman? mine the 3.9 gallon.
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Me once I figure out where I can put it to clear the tank
Muleman is going to be the test case for the big tank version. Look at his pictures above, is it the same setup you have?
nope I run a zip-Ty tank and pipe
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nope I run a zip-Ty tank and pipe
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/BigTank5.jpg)
Will the area marked with the red dot work for you?
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figured out that is same tank as me. red dot on mulemans would work perfect for mine
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figured out that is same tank as me. red dot on mulemans would work perfect for mine
You owe Muleman a beer. Maybe two. :-D
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Not my bike... but the best (Pipe side) pictures I have found....
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,4930.0.html
as stewart has my motor and pipe.. I have no idea where I can stuff one and have access.. its all speculation
Now since I will have a Batt on the bike due to the Dual sport kit. I was thinking maby one of these would work... just hook to the horn button or somthing on the controlls
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harley-Davidson-Automatic-Compression-Release-28861-07A_W0QQitemZ110429005277QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item19b614e5dd&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
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I have the 3.9 gal clarke tank
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This past weekend I built some tooling and fixtures for the compression release modification. Then, tried out the process on my '89 head.
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0676.jpg)
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0677.jpg)
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Beautiful work Larry. For us guys that run a large tank IMS, Clark, it looks like we're going to need the unit on the right side of the head. Any problem with that? I was thinking their might be room on the left side if you were able to machine the unit to attach vertically sort of like a street L. One last question what valve were you going to use? The chain saw version or the other "Harley" version?
Thanks
Serafin
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(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/head2.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/head1.jpg)
I made a bung and going to use the 2mm drill bit as a pin so it doesn't move when It is welded. (http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff25/muleman750/head.jpg)
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Sorry these are from my cell phone.
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This past weekend I built some tooling and fixtures for the compression release modification. Then, tried out the process on my '89 head.
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0676.jpg)
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0677.jpg)
Wow larry it looks like it was molded in by the factory lol.
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WOW!!! thats awsome work!!! i cant wait to get mine back, its on the way!! :-D
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Beautiful work Larry. For us guys that run a large tank IMS, Clark, it looks like we're going to need the unit on the right side of the head. Any problem with that?
No.
I was thinking their might be room on the left side if you were able to machine the unit to attach vertically sort of like a street L.
I played around with that concept, but it got complicated fast. I think the other side is a better option.
One last question what valve were you going to use? The chain saw version or the other "Harley" version?
The saw valve is smaller, cheaper and was manufactured with a LOT more quality control than any aftermarket HOG part.
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Here you can see what Im dealing with with the zip ty tank pipe combo...
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/764/013en5.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/013en5.jpg/)
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/8765/008ze.jpg) (http://img195.imageshack.us/i/008ze.jpg/)
here is my bike with the tank sitting on it stewart has my motor and pipe, so I dont know where everything is in relation to the tank...
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6882/dsc2986s.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/dsc2986s.jpg/)
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I'm trying to make one with a cable and hotstarter lever!!!
Where do you have space with a zip ty tank???? My AF has a lot of space on the sides.
Would like to make it less visable, maybe I'll try it to make it on top or at the back of the head.
Dutch
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I think the back of the head would be more universally usable for all setups.
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I'm trying to make one with a cable and hotstarter lever!!!
Dutch
I was going to suggest that myself. :-D
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Maybe I'll buy or make this one.
http://www.racebase.co.uk/item--Decompressor-Valve-Assembly--EH_VDE5.html (http://www.racebase.co.uk/item--Decompressor-Valve-Assembly--EH_VDE5.html)
Dutchie
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R&D....Rob and Duplicate...Got to love it. So easy a caveman could do it. Well the Rob part, the duplicate took a little more time. Thanks Larry, I loved the weld on bung idea. :-D
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Done deal. Works great. IMO, it is the best mod that you could do to the kx500 engine...except put it in an aluminum frame. :evil:
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I'll definately take one, after having my cyl. replated and a new piston installed on my 87 KX500 it was real bear to kick. The only good thing about the hard to kick problem was there weren't to many people in my area that wanted to ride my bike because they couldn't kick it.
This mod is worth it's weight in gold easily to me.
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I have mine on its way to larry right now. Can't wait for this mod to come back. Thanx again Larry!!!
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Maybe I'll buy or make this one.
http://www.racebase.co.uk/item--Decompressor-Valve-Assembly--EH_VDE5.html (http://www.racebase.co.uk/item--Decompressor-Valve-Assembly--EH_VDE5.html)
Dutchie
Just brought two of these, ones gone onto a yz490 and the other getting put on my kx500. We putting these in the head on both bikes i'm getting the k5 done now and the 490 kicks over like a 125!!!
We got some nice hotstart levers and no one will ever know :wink:
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i have an 85 jug would it be possible for my head.
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No problem! :-D
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L.W. & JFab,
Has anyone approached you guys on doing the big CR's? or those big MX sidecar motors?
I believe when this gets around you're gonna be swamped... :-D
Tuck\o/
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The CR's really benefit from this modification, especially if the cylinder has been bored oversize. The stock decompression grooves near the exhaust port are removed by the over bore. Now you have additional cylinder volume being squeezed into a stock volume head.
Larry
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Anyone worked out a hotstart activated one yet? :evil:
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Anyone worked out a hotstart activated one yet? :evil:
Do you mean cable/lever operated?
Larry
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Anyone worked out a hotstart activated one yet? :evil:
Do you mean cable/lever operated?
Larry
I have been working out the details of this idea for some time. I just finished it up this morning and if the rain here ever stops I will take the K5 out and thrash it a bit.
I think it was Dutch-K5 Fan that said he was interested in using this type of valve. The valve can be bought all over the internet and with very little head work and the little adapter that I am going to offer it can be installed on just about any head on any bike.
JFAB
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I hope you guy's make a zillion with these.
"Find a need, Fill a need"...
Tuck\o/
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Although it's not going fast now, I'm working on it bit by bit.
It realy looks good Jerry!!!!!
Dutchie
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Thanks Dutch, I like the one built for chain saws that I put on my KX500AF but if you are running a stock K5 with an over size fuel tank it is hard if not impossible to use especially in a hurry. I just got in from some riding and so far so good. It starts easier than the AF but the engine is bone stock as opposed to 13:1. I think that is the difference. I used the same size hole into the cylinder. Thanks again for the idea Dutch.
JFAB
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Forgot to mention...I might kick it in bare feet on you tube in a bit....maybe. :-D
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Your brave, wrap the foot peg with duct tape.
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Jerry
That valve looks more heavy duty compare to the other one. I think this one will work great for guys that run nasty compression.
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The compression release lever that came with the generic valve kit was a small lever like the one that was used on the YZ426. I just installed a Moose lever set that had a Hot Start lever incorporated into it. It works and feels ok but I think the ASV style lever might be a little better. The little lever that came with the valve worked great but was not too sanitary.
JFAB
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Some blurry photos of my version of the big 14mm compression release installation. This was to prove out an installation on a CR500 that had really tight space limitations.
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0697.jpg)
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/DECOPM%20TEST/DSCN0695.jpg)
Long ago, these cable operated valves were used on 2-stroke flattrackers as an engine brake. Run up to the corner, pull the lever and flick'er in. Made for nice, easy slides and a cool farting noise as the valve bled off cylinder pressure. The down side in this application was that the motor was sucking in dirt on the intake stroke. Then someone produced a valve that had small metal reed valves covering the discharge ports. Genius! No more Filtron foam wrapped around the compression release and it even functioned better, because now there was also resistance as the piston moved down. I've searched for a supply of the one-way valves, but I think they died with the 70's.
Simple solution, don't ride around at the back of the pack doing brake slides no matter how much fun it is!
Larry
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I toyed with the idea of welding a boss onto the head just as we have done with the 10mm x 1mm valves, only toward the rear of the head. I chose the stud mounted version because of less modification to the head. Also, if you decide that you do not like, no longer need it or want to sell the bike with out it, just remove the valve and put a nut back on the stud.
I already have plans to minichureize the valve that I use in an effort to maximize mounting locations...and to cut out the middle man.
JFAB
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Long ago, these cable operated valves were used on 2-stroke flattrackers as an engine brake. Run up to the corner, pull the lever and flick'er in. Made for nice, easy slides and a cool farting noise as the valve bled off cylinder pressure.
Larry
I don't want to hijack this topic but this is the second or therd time that I have read this. I do not understand how releasing the pressure from the cylinder will slow the engine. Someone has compared it to a Jake Break. A Jake Break releases the preasure just befor TDC after the resistance of compressing the intake stroke has taken place. With the pressure dumped at TDC there is no pressure to rebound the piston and the engine slows.
I know it is done and it must work but I would like to know how.
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BKaw,
The application here is primarily to make the bike easier to start.
As I see it, You are correct in that this is not an "Engine Brake", but merely an additional application.
The force of the piston pushing all that air out of the small passage in the valve will create some resistance.
If I'm not mistaken Jake Brakes "are designed" to use engine compression to aid in vehicle braking, not aid in starting.
Hope I didn't just make this any more confusing...
Tuck\o/
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Also, if you decide that you do not like, no longer need it or want to sell the bike with out it, just remove the valve and put a nut back on the stud.
JFAB
Do you really believe someone would not like, need or want a decompression device after having used one. Can you think of a better resale feature?
I think the future is something like this concept patented by a Husky engineer.http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=6,253,723.PN.&OS=PN/6,253,723&RS=PN/6,253,723 (http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=6,253,723.PN.&OS=PN/6,253,723&RS=PN/6,253,723)
Small, automatic and simple.
Larry
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Also, if you decide that you do not like, no longer need it or want to sell the bike with out it, just remove the valve and put a nut back on the stud.
JFAB
Do you really believe someone would not like, need or want a decompression device after having used one. Can you think of a better resale feature?
Larry
Larry you are right. I had not looked at it in that way. I can't imagine not having decompression valves now that I have them.
JFAB
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Digging the idea... As im one of the many that can not run the chain saw setup (tank interferance).
Few quick thoughts/questions..
Volumetrically how much extra area are we adding to the combustion chamber (how much space is in all of these adaptors, area around the stud, etc) If you add it all up, are we getting into some serious numbers?
Hot exaust gas: Over time, do you think there will be an issue with hot exaust gasses erroding anything? studs, gasket serfaces around the stud.. Its amazing what things like this will do on car motors.. Will ditch things right up.
Sealing.. Just off looks, is thre now 3 serfaces you are sealing with that setup (spacer to head, adaptor to spacer, Compression release to adaptor)... Things like that scare me a bit, being a desert racer, DNF due to a stupid crush washer backing off etc sucks...
In another thread you said "There is a hole drilled into the chamber at an angle. The adapter is designed to capture the hole in a counter bore. " are you capturing it like say a banjo bolt? or are you filling the entire area around the stud with combustion to then travel into the adaptor?
Anyone worked out a hotstart activated one yet? :evil:
Do you mean cable/lever operated?
Larry
I have been working out the details of this idea for some time. I just finished it up this morning and if the rain here ever stops I will take the K5 out and thrash it a bit.
I think it was Dutch-K5 Fan that said he was interested in using this type of valve. The valve can be bought all over the internet and with very little head work and the little adapter that I am going to offer it can be installed on just about any head on any bike.
JFAB
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Motorrad,
There are only 2 sealing surfaces, valve to adapter and adapter to head. The shinny piece is a machine mark from the lathe work on the adapter. The valve has a spark plug washer between it and the adapter. My proto type uses no washer between the head and adapter. A copper washer could be used.
I did the some math to get a rough idea of the volume created by holes and it is less that 1cc. I will do an actual cc test latter.
The exhaust gas does share the space with the head stud and I am sure over time there will be some oil build up in that area. As far as maintenance goes, I am skeptical that it will be more than is required to keep the KIPS working. The gasses moving past the decompression valve are not hot unless you hold the valve open for a prolong period of time.
I have a little over 20 hours of testing on mine between me and my 13 year old nephews riding the k5.
View the video; I think the plusses outweigh any maintenance issues. Even if you had to clean the carbon from it ever so often.
In the video I point out the Hot Start lever. The bike was warm but not hot. That was the first and only take with the camera. First kick!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXDVzyiV5oA
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXDVzyiV5oA)
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AARGgghh... You're KIllin' me! :-D :-D :-D
Dang JFab That's Great!!
As an aside, I don't personally know anyone who has had problems with their comp release on their chainsaws.
I have an OLD Craftsman (made by Echo) in the 80's and that old girl has had no prob.
Tuck\o/
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Thanks jfab that answered a few questions I thought up really quick. And I'm sure others had as well.
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How do these comp releases work jfab?
Are they lome the chain saw ones that auto kick out when the bike fires?
Or do you have to hold the leaver down to keep it engaged?'
Hard to tell from the video if you continue to hold it down with your other thumb or not...
Reason I ask. is Im looking at these as a option to the "clutch side" hot start leaver.... But if you need to continue to hold it... it would be nice to be able to use the trottle..
http://www.asvinventions.com/RotatorClamp/RCU05.php
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Motorrad,
It is hard to tell from the video. I was only trying to make the point that a shot fat guy could start the K5 without boot, from a seated position while keeping both hands on the bars.
Yes you have to hold it while you do have to hold it while you are kicking it. That feature in itself was another reason I thought it would be a good idea to have full control over the valve. The chain saw valve that I installed on the AF will reset if the engine sneezes or hits and does not stay running for whatever reason, and we all know that happens. After having to hunt for the hot start button on my YZ426, which is on the carb right next to the choke knob, I realized that for me it would be better to have it on the bars. It my not make a lot of difference in a 2 hour hare scramble or a long distance race but I race MX and if I stall it in a berm a few second can make a lot of difference in a 6 lap race with a 2 min lap.
I have used it with the clutch side Moose and ASV lever and the chrome one that comes in the kit.
JFAB
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I like the idea of the cable/handle bar controlled release. With my right knee/leg problems I have to use my right hand to assist getting my foot onto the kicker. A hot start controlled release on the left handle bar would be ideal for me.
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Motorrad,
It is hard to tell from the video. I was only trying to make the point that a shot fat guy could start the K5 without boot, from a seated position while keeping both hands on the bars.
Yes you have to hold it while you do have to hold it while you are kicking it. That feature in itself was another reason I thought it would be a good idea to have full control over the valve. The chain saw valve that I installed on the AF will reset if the engine sneezes or hits and does not stay running for whatever reason, and we all know that happens. After having to hunt for the hot start button on my YZ426, which is on the carb right next to the choke knob, I realized that for me it would be better to have it on the bars. It my not make a lot of difference in a 2 hour hare scramble or a long distance race but I race MX and if I stall it in a berm a few second can make a lot of difference in a 6 lap race with a 2 min lap.
I have used it with the clutch side Moose and ASV lever and the chrome one that comes in the kit.
JFAB
did you have ever gotten the remote lever adapter designed and tested for the compression release valve that i build for my bike?
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gianni2takt,
Back when the whole cable operated compression release valve was being kicked around I had thought a couple of designs through. The adapter for yours was one of them but due to the cost of manufacturing I decided to go version that had already been tested for years in other applications.
I installed the "chain saw" valve in my personal KX500AF and it works flawlessly. The lever/cable operated one in the k5 bleeds a little more compression and works a little better in my opinion. I do like the cable idea.
Larry is working on a his version of an adapter to remotely operate his compression release. When he gets it perfected I am sure it will be up to par with all of his work.
Here is a picture of the one that I came up with for the saw valve.
JFAB
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gianni2takt,
Back when the whole cable operated compression release valve was being kicked around I had thought a couple of designs through. The adapter for yours was one of them but due to the cost of manufacturing I decided to go version that had already been tested for years in other applications.
I installed the "chain saw" valve in my personal KX500AF and it works flawlessly. The lever/cable operated one in the k5 bleeds a little more compression and works a little better in my opinion. I do like the cable idea.
Larry is working on a his version of an adapter to remotely operate his compression release. When he gets it perfected I am sure it will be up to par with all of his work.
Here is a picture of the one that I came up with for the saw valve.
JFAB
looks fantastic!!!!
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Any problems with carbon buildup blocking the tiny hole in the head?
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I have a little over 20 hrs on the '95 and it still works like it did when I installed it. I have the engine apart too offen to tell on the AF with chain saw valve.
JFAB
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What model chain saw are these decompressors off?
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The ones that I use are for a Stihl 650 660...I think. I went to the saw shop and told him I needed a decompression valve for a Stihl and that is what I got. I have sence bought the cheaper blue ones off e-bay. They work just the same. I buy most of them from this guy....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Decompression-valve-fits-Husqvarna-Jonsered-Dolmar_W0QQitemZ390128244072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad5749568 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Decompression-valve-fits-Husqvarna-Jonsered-Dolmar_W0QQitemZ390128244072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad5749568)
JFAB
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The ones that I use are for a Stihl 650 660...I think. I went to the saw shop and told him I needed a decompression valve for a Stihl and that is what I got. I have sence bought the cheaper blue ones off e-bay. They work just the same. I buy most of them from this guy....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Decompression-valve-fits-Husqvarna-Jonsered-Dolmar_W0QQitemZ390128244072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad5749568 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Decompression-valve-fits-Husqvarna-Jonsered-Dolmar_W0QQitemZ390128244072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad5749568)
JFAB
Great stuff, thanks.
What thread pitch and diameter are they?
I've been looking on Google and I spotted a patent for a different type of compression release that goes in the sparkplug hole and the plug goes through it, Unfortunately I can't see the picture properly to fully understand it. I'll see if I can sign up to it.
This is the plug one...
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6240888/description.html (http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6240888/description.html)
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I've just signed up so I could view that Patent properly and I'm not dead impressed with its design, you would need a long plug by the looks of it, also you would have to drill the plug threaded area.
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The thread is 10mm x 1.0 on the saw valves.
From the looks of the plug type he is more than likely counter boreing the spark plug seat and then drilling a hole along side of the plug bosses threads and then routing the gas to the valve in a similar way that I have done with the remote valves. The plug is probably the same size as stock.
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The thread is 10mm x 1.0 on the saw valves.
From the looks of the plug type he is more than likely counter boreing the spark plug seat and then drilling a hole along side of the plug bosses threads and then routing the gas to the valve in a similar way that I have done with the remote valves. The plug is probably the same size as stock.
I don't suppose you have seen one with the little blue knob removed? My KMX125 from many years ago had a handlebar mounted choke that was rather handy as I remember it and I wonder if it would fit.
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Do you have to reset the valve if the bike fires but does not start or will it stat set?
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Do you have to reset the valve if the bike fires but does not start or will it stat set?
You do have to reset the valve if the engine fires and doesn't start. That is a small inconveniance. The remotely opperated valve solves that problem.
I am currently working on a completely automatic decompression valve. All you would have to do is kick the bike like a KX450f.
JFAB
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You do have to reset the valve if the engine fires and doesn't start. That is a small inconveniance. The remotely opperated valve solves that problem.
I am currently working on a completely automatic decompression valve. All you would have to do is kick the bike like a KX450f.
JFAB
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I will post a little more on this later. Does anyone have any thought along these lines...good idea, bad idea, concerns?
JFAB
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if you have the blue deco valve from jonsered , you dont have to reset the valve after not starting because the holes on the side are bigger . but the still valves have smaler holes but you can make them bigger and dril more holes in it like i did by my 570cc , and i do not most reset the valve after not starting and reset itselvs after starting
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if you have the blue deco valve from jonsered , you dont have to reset the valve after not starting because the holes on the side are bigger . but the still valves have smaler holes but you can make them bigger and dril more holes in it like i did by my 570cc , and i do not most reset the valve after not starting and reset itselvs after starting
Does the Jonsered (and I assume that Husqvarna will be the same cos J Reds have been bought out by Husky and often pretty much the same saw with a different colour) valve have the same thread diameter and pitch as the Stihl one?
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Does the Jonsered (and I assume that Husqvarna will be the same cos J Reds have been bought out by Husky and often pretty much the same saw with a different colour) valve have the same thread diameter and pitch as the Stihl one?
They do have the same threads. They are almost identical. The Stihl does have smaller holes than the others. I have used both and did not notice a big difference in kicking effort. I went back to the Stihl valve with the black knob on my bike. I didn't like the blue knob.
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Does the Jonsered (and I assume that Husqvarna will be the same cos J Reds have been bought out by Husky and often pretty much the same saw with a different colour) valve have the same thread diameter and pitch as the Stihl one?
They do have she same threads. They are almost identical. The Stihl does have smaller holes than the others. I have used both and did not notice a big difference in kicking effort. I went back to the Stihl valve with the black knob on my bike. I didn't like the blue knob.
Fair comment as the black one does look more like it was put there by Kawasaki, there's a local tool dealer that sells J reds, Huskies and Stihls so I should have a fair choice if I go for it.
I'm not dead keen on the idea of drilling a hole in my cylinder head though.
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Fair comment as the black one does look more like it was put there by Kawasaki, there's a local tool dealer that sells J reds, Huskies and Stihls so I should have a fair choice if I go for it.
I'm not dead keen on the idea of drilling a hole in my cylinder head though.
I was a little sceptical at first. A chain saw gets used a lot more hours than KX500 and they are still useing them. That was how I justified it in the begenning. Now that I have one there is no going back.
JFAB
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Fair comment as the black one does look more like it was put there by Kawasaki, there's a local tool dealer that sells J reds, Huskies and Stihls so I should have a fair choice if I go for it.
I'm not dead keen on the idea of drilling a hole in my cylinder head though.
I was a little sceptical at first. A chain saw gets used a lot more hours than KX500 and they are still using them. That was how I justified it in the beginning. Now that I have one there is no going back.
JFAB
Sorry, I didn't make my post very clear, I'm not bothered about someone else who knows exactly where to drill the hole doing it, I just don't know exactly where to do it myself and by the time I would have sent the head over to the US and back plus the cost of the work, its more money that I currently have spare.
I really like the idea and considering I ride mine on the road I don't want to be wearing massive clumpy MX boots when I do. Having a decomp valve would make a huge difference to it.
Just have to save my pennies up.
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I never thought I could be sold on the comp release. Who ever it was that came up with that is a real thinker. I like it and I would have one on my bike for sure.
that real thinker was me
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Fair comment as the black one does look more like it was put there by Kawasaki, there's a local tool dealer that sells J reds, Huskies and Stihls so I should have a fair choice if I go for it.
I'm not dead keen on the idea of drilling a hole in my cylinder head though.
I was a little sceptical at first. A chain saw gets used a lot more hours than KX500 and they are still using them. That was how I justified it in the beginning. Now that I have one there is no going back.
JFAB
Sorry, I didn't make my post very clear, I'm not bothered about someone else who knows exactly where to drill the hole doing it, I just don't know exactly where to do it myself and by the time I would have sent the head over to the US and back plus the cost of the work, its more money that I currently have spare.
I really like the idea and considering I ride mine on the road I don't want to be wearing massive clumpy MX boots when I do. Having a decomp valve would make a huge difference to it.
Just have to save my pennies up.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5255.0.html in this topic on page 5 you can see how you can make it yourself :wink:
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http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5255.0.html in this topic on page 5 you can see how you can make it yourself :wink:
I haven't been on this forum for a while and missed out on that thread, thanks very much for the link.
What a great idea.
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demo, I did misunderstand. Sorry for that. The infor that you were linked to will get you there yourself.
JFAB
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demo, I did misunderstand. Sorry for that. The infor that you were linked to will get you there yourself.
JFAB
No worries at all, we are all here to help each other as far as I see it. This forum has changed a huge amount in the last few years and is now more of a source of technical information than ever.
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here are some pictures of the high quality work from larry wiechman ,,very nice job on these heads modded for the release thanks larry great work
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:cry:.... 8-)
Thou Shall not Covet... Thou Shalt not Covet....
Tuck\o/
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Is that one from my bike???
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Or is the one for me :wink:
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Or is the one for me :wink:
Really, my motor is at his shop.
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Mine is in my bike I just ordered a head from Stewart and I cant wait till it arrives
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Is that one from my bike???
yes i got 5 of them back one is yours they look fantastic
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Mine is in my bike I just ordered a head from Stewart and I cant wait till it arrives
yes one of these is for your bike as well ,,today i was checking the bleeder bolt holes and plug threads on every head then lapping the decks then mesuring the ccs and thickness of each head