KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Larry Wiechman on August 12, 2009, 03:38:06 PM
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The o-rings had worn grooves in the exhaust port counterbore so deep that even new o-rings and a shot of high temp RTV couldn't keep the goo from leaking.
The Fix:
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/EXSLEEVE1.jpg)
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/EXSLEEVE2.jpg)
Bore out the counterbore and press in a stainless steel sleeve.
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Man, nice work. Did you glass bead blast?
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That's awsome :-) great work it's about time someone did something to fix this problem.
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That looks fantastic. Did you cut the outlet oversize or just press the insert into the worn port? If so, did you mill the bottom flat as well?
I like the ss bore AND the end flange.
Didja make more while you were at it? hmmm? :-D
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Man, nice work. Did you glass bead blast?
Thanks!
The aftermath of glass bead blasting is real hard to clean up. Always seems to be a little bit of the dust or beads imbedded in the soft aluminum or stuck in a porosity. A very small amount will do a lot of damage. Tapped holes + glass beads = broken bolts. My workload of broken/stripped fastener repairs went through the roof after Friendly Local Dealer got a Snap-On benchtop blaster. OK, rant over.
The casting in the picture was cleaned by soda blasting. The process is about the same as glass beads, but the blast media (baking soda) is not reused. Clean up with hot soapy water.
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That looks fantastic. Did you cut the outlet oversize or just press the insert into the worn port? If so, did you mill the bottom flat as well?
I like the ss bore AND the end flange.
Didja make more while you were at it? hmmm? :-D
Outlet inside diameter had to be bored to remove the worn material and allow for the sleeve wall thickness. The bottom face got a light clean up cut to remove any damage and make it square with the bore. Heat the outlet area of the casting 250~300 deg. F and freeze the sleeve for an easy .003 press fit.
I'll post a CAD drawing later.
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thats a outstanding job off figuring out and fixing a much needed repair , could you sell the sleeves or do the job for the members here on the web site thanks stewart
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I would buy acouple of those seal sleeve.
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Here is a cross section view and the dimensions used in my application. Castings with more severe damage would need to be bored larger, within reason, and adjustments made to the sleeve outside diameter to maintain a .002~.003 press fit.
(http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac11/LJW197/kx500exsleeve.jpg)
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really nice work. did you make the stainless sleeve or was it a part from something else?
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really nice work. did you make the stainless sleeve or was it a part from something else?
2.5 inch diameter 304 stainless steel bar, lathe and time. :-D
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Just registered to this site and saw this ,I have been in this biz for 20 years , Very nice work I have been wanting to do this for the last 10 years on my 250's and now my 1996 Danny hamel 5 hundy. I knew someone would beat me to it.
good job
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very 8-) my ice bike could use this,(93 been around the block a time or 2) are you going to make more already asked i know and what do you think it would cost roughly
thanks in advance bob
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It's really nice to see nice work like this. Almost like art.. :-D
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Nice work larry. Thanks for sharing.
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Veerrrryyy nice!! How much ????
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Can we get this post loaded into Larry's forum of mods with the compression release? Seems like a lot of interest in this, but a price would nice too.
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I agree. Larry, you can go into buisness with this one.
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Larry...... I want it!!!! I'll be a guinea pig.
Did you get my check?
torch
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Grate idea 8-) is it a speedy sleeve from a bearing house :?
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not a speedy sleeve. note previous post.
really nice work. did you make the stainless sleeve or was it a part from something else?
2.5 inch diameter 304 stainless steel bar, lathe and time. :-D
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Larry obviously did a great job with this. I would like to do something with mine while I have the cylinder off and am curious regarding options. It seems someone could produce a sleeve easier without the flange Larry milled into his. One size sleeve should practically work for everyone if someone could produce it. Is that something a machine should should be able to do reasonably, bore the exhaust area and press in a milled sleeve? What options do the non-machinists have? Can the grooves be filled with high-temp RTV sealant and allowed to cure prior to installing the pipe? Maybe fill the grooves with JB Weld? Thanks for your thoughts, Kenny
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Quick question for someone to answer: with this being stainless steel, could you get your cylinder re-nikasiled without the worries of this piece dissinagrating in the acid bath. I know that I had time-serts put into an old cylinder and they were gone after the acid bath, but cant remember if they were steel or stainless steel. ( I believe one will last and the other wont? )
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Larry obviously did a great job with this. I would like to do something with mine while I have the cylinder off and am curious regarding options. It seems someone could produce a sleeve easier without the flange Larry milled into his. One size sleeve should practically work for everyone if someone could produce it. Is that something a machine should should be able to do reasonably, bore the exhaust area and press in a milled sleeve? What options do the non-machinists have? Can the grooves be filled with high-temp RTV sealant and allowed to cure prior to installing the pipe? Maybe fill the grooves with JB Weld? Thanks for your thoughts, Kenny
Good thinking on this, Kenny.
I've been trying to make this cheaper and easier for everyone.
I use high-temp RTV on every pipe, even if they're not worn. Improves the o-ring seal and limits the rattle and movement that causes further wear.
For cylinders that are already badly worn, I'd like to try a cheap, hillbilly fix. I'd make a round Delrin plastic plug the diameter of a new, stock port. The plug would have a slight taper (1 deg. per side draft) to ease removal. The plug would serve as a mold core to form a repair using JB Weld. No machine tools involved!
If someone wants to test it, I'll make the plug and do the work. You pay shipping and write a test report here.
Larry
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Larry,
If you are suggesting someone send you their cylinder for you to work on, I will be pleased to ship mine to you. My problem is it will be a few months before I am able to write a test report. I am recovering from eye surgery last week and will be unable to ride for at least 3 months. If you are receptive to working on my cylinder and think you can evaluate the results of the repair on your bench, let me know. Thanks, Kenny
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Kenny,
You must live in the south!
Where I live, in three months it's time to go ice racing.
This experiment may turn out to be an easy, low buck fix or it might be crap. One test is worth a thousand expert opinions. :-D
Larry
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Larry, you should manufacture these, I'd pay good money for one, beats buying a cylinder or paying somone to attempt a repair.
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Excellent job.
Just curious, how did you bore the outlet?
Custom fixture, special tooling, or CNC?
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Excellent job.
Just curious, how did you bore the outlet?
Custom fixture, special tooling, or CNC?
Just a sine plate on a Bridgeport