KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: Larry Gude on January 26, 2009, 09:35:58 PM
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Hi folks,
I'm sure this has been covered numerous times but, I'm betting folks around here won't mind at all covering it again!
As I understand it, the KX's are now extinct as a new machine, all having gone to 4 stroke. Correct?
So, please steer me in the general direction of what year(s) to look at as 'good' years to buy, ie, less cantankerous, more reliable, etc. Much of my riding will be more trail oriented, lots of daily short rides as opposed to having to wait for the weekends and then go all day, though that'll happen some, too. There will be some MX in my future, not competitive, but shooting to be able to get around the track competently and safely to myself and other riders.
I'm not a guy who wants to spend lots and lots of time tinkering with the bike. I wanna ride! So, if a 2 stroke simply needs more attention than I'm inclined to, maybe the KX isn't for me? I don't like that idea, but I do want to be informed and eyes open to what I'm looking at here.
Anyway, I'd appreciate all comments and thoughts!
Thanks
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Hi folks,
I'm sure this has been covered numerous times but, I'm betting folks around here won't mind at all covering it again!
As I understand it, the KX's are now extinct as a new machine, all having gone to 4 stroke. Correct?
So, please steer me in the general direction of what year(s) to look at as 'good' years to buy, ie, less cantankerous, more reliable, etc. Much of my riding will be more trail oriented, lots of daily short rides as opposed to having to wait for the weekends and then go all day, though that'll happen some, too. There will be some MX in my future, not competitive, but shooting to be able to get around the track competently and safely to myself and other riders.
I'm not a guy who wants to spend lots and lots of time tinkering with the bike. I wanna ride! So, if a 2 stroke simply needs more attention than I'm inclined to, maybe the KX isn't for me? I don't like that idea, but I do want to be informed and eyes open to what I'm looking at here.
Anyway, I'd appreciate all comments and thoughts!
Thanks
Well I just brought home my first KX5 last night. A 2000. I'm in love! I have found on here that 97 was a fork update. So after that is what I looked for.
I also understand that the 03 and 04's were redstickered. Meaning only can be ridden from like Oct. to Apr. depending on location. If you are in Cali.
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From the subject it appears that your looking at getting a KX500. Most of these bikes will require some work due to the last production year being 2004. With that being said you might able to find one of those rare kx500's that has never been ridin or very low hrs. If you search will find later models that have been very well cared for. When buying used always try to buy the newest model you can and best condition, but the kx500 hasn't changed much at all, so a 97 model could be better shape and condition then an 04 model just depends.
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Sorry, we posted at the same time,
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[/quote]
Well I just brought home my first KX5 last night. A 2000. I'm in love! I have found on here that 97 was a fork update. So after that is what I looked for.
I also understand that the 03 and 04's were redstickered. Meaning only can be ridden from like Oct. to Apr. depending on location. If you are in Cali.
[/quote]
Would you mind giving me a run down of what else you were looking at that helped you pick this particular one?
Thanks!
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to give a few tips ,
check for excessive wear on the subframe ,chainwear to be exact.
check pipe mount and mounts ,they reveal crashes ,flipovers often
check crankbearing freeplay ,if the owner has no prob.with that check.
check steering /wheel/unitrak bearings
check allingment ,if the bike is true ,not warped
check for escessive overall wear on things like the kicker ,shift pedal sitting tight
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Comments, please:
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/mcy/1013619314.html
have an 02 kx500 lots of extras like full fmf pipe with dyno jet kit renthal bars msr levers k an n filter fresh tires fresh topend have invoice to prove it has about 25 hours on new sleeve wisco piston an rings v force reeds new fork seals rear is sprung or 200 pound rider very very clean an very very very very fast it will wheelie in every gear with no clutch never its never been wrecked an runs very strong an is very clean always stored inside email for more pics oh an the pics were not taken in 06 my camera is just screwed up
Thanks
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get a k5 theres nothing like a 500 of the trails
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I would say NO on that one if the cylinder is sleeved, on that aspect alone. You should be able to find a nicer one without a sleeved cylinder for less than $3500 especially in todays economy. He also states that it has never been wrecked... If it hasnt been ridden hard enough to wreck then why would the engine be so worn as to need a sleeve job? Just my thoughts.
-G
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I would say NO on that one if the cylinder is sleeved, on that aspect alone. You should be able to find a nicer one without a sleeved cylinder for less than $3500 especially in todays economy. He also states that it has never been wrecked... If it hasnt been ridden hard enough to wreck then why would the engine be so worn as to need a sleeve job? Just my thoughts.
-G
So, what's that mean, 'new sleeved'?
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Larry,
I am not far from the Craigslist Ad you have posted and know there are MUCH better deals to be had then that.
As GDubb mentioned if the cylinder has been sleeved (I prefer the Coated Bores) it had to have been run with straight gas (no oil mixed) or hung a ring in a port or lost a crank or etc.etc.etc.
A sleeved cylinder has the original Nikasil coating removed and has a cast iron liner installed, which can be bored, but will be worn much faster then the coated cylinders. If you are trying to locate a K5, and are serious, let me know and I will keep my eyes on the look out.
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As DoldGuy stated, it basically means serious damage was done to the factory cylinder and could not be easily repaired so they bore out the cylinder and put a cast iron sleeve in to refurbish the cylinder.
Sleeve....
(https://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/graphics/00000002/lasleeve.jpg)
-G
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D and G,
Thanks.
OK, so the cylinder itself is prohibitive to replace in order to get it back to 'new'?
And an older KX with a sleeved cylinder is NOT normal?
Doldguy, I'd jump on a great deal now, probably go for a 'good' deal, but not in a 'must have right now' frame of mind. So, thanks!
FWIW, I'm 6' 2", 260 if that matters at all.
KXfreak, what does it mean to check crankbearing free play?
Thanks, all.
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Larry, here's a link on Nikasil,(electrodeposited oleophilic nickel matrix Silicon Carbide coating :-) )
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil
It's alot cheaper to bore and add a liner the cyl. as apposed to re-Nikasil (re-plate)
To check endplay/ worn bearings.
Warm up the engine. Switch off the engine. Remove the left side cover (the flywheel sits behind).
Grab hold of the flywheel and very firmly try and move it up and down and front to back.
Feel for any slight movement or clicking. (service limit is 0-0.10mm or 0-0.004") not much...
If you feel any thing excessive the crank needs a re-build (since the generator is bolted to the end of the crank)
* Using a dial indicator and comparing reading changes with manual specified end float and radial movement tolerances will give a more accurate idea of the significance of any play found.
* If there is no movement it doesn't mean the crank is healthy,just that it's not really worn.
* This is more a test to see if the crank is bad rather than a test to see if it's good.
Stewart has a link on the subject of crank being "Out of Clock"
Swingarm, put the bike on a stand (rear wheel off the ground) facing either the side of the bike firmly grab hold of the swingarm and push/pull back and forth. Look at the movement at the shock linkage and engine/ swingarm mount.
Before leaving the side grab the wheel and try "Twisting" back and forth This will give you an Idea of both the wheel bearings and the condition of the spokes.
Go to the back of the bike, grab the swingarmand lift-up and down. Check the linkeage & shock bearings.
While the rear end is up off the ground give the rear wheel a spin look for wobble (runout) in rim & sprocket.
Is the chain really riding on the center of the sprocket?
Look closely at the rollers on the chain is it centered or is it favoring a sideplate. and condition of both sprockets.
Have someone hold the rear wheel down and get the front wheel off the ground. give her a whirl. Look for runout, (rim and brake disk) condition of brakes. grab the forks at the bottoms near the axel, push/pull towards bike this will give you an Idea of steering stem bearings. Have someone hold the handlebars and "twist" the front wheel to check bearings and spokes.
Whew...
The bearings in the suspension and wheels aren't too awfully expensive,however the can be a challenge to replace.
crank bearings...well they are not overly expensive but the process is...
Shock / fork re-build kits are not too bad, but again the process..
Hang in there,
Tuck\o/
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KXfreak, what does it mean to check crankbearing free play?
i couldn,t be more specific then how friar-tuck stated it 8-)
filtered the crankstory out so its maybe a bit more clear-reading
To check endplay/ worn bearings.
Warm up the engine. Switch off the engine. Remove the left side cover (the flywheel sits behind).
Grab hold of the flywheel and very firmly try and move it up and down and front to back.
Feel for any slight movement or clicking. (service limit is 0-0.10mm or 0-0.004") not much...
If you feel any thing excessive the crank needs a re-build (since the generator is bolted to the end of the crank)
* Using a dial indicator and comparing reading changes with manual specified end float and radial movement tolerances will give a more accurate idea of the significance of any play found.
* If there is no movement it doesn't mean the crank is healthy,just that it's not really worn.
* This is more a test to see if the crank is bad rather than a test to see if it's good.
Stewart has a link on the subject of crank being "Out of Clock"
Hang in there,
Tuck\o/
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Friar,
Thanks! I know y'all have probably covered this plenty of times before. You're saving me hours of searching old posts, I'm sure.
Now, is it to be expected to find a bike that is just in really good shape or or is there a priority as to what really needs to be in good shape or walk away?
What's fair, from top dollar, ready to ride, on down to a good deal even if a fair bit of work needs to be done?
It sounds like a sleeved cylinder should pretty much be a deal killer at any price?
I appreciate the patience!
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Larry,
Check this thread:
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,5234.msg39797/topicseen.html#new
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Also,
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/mcy/990377048.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcy/1008110988.html
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mcy/993996981.html
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/996016980.html (Too Much$$)
Just a hop, skip and a jump away. Let us know what you find :-D
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The last link has a great description. :lol: :evil:
-G
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The last link has a great description. :lol: :evil:
-G
OK, now for the down side; I keep reading the most terrifying descriptions about KX500's; widow-maker, terrifyingly fast, brutal, 450 killer, etc, etc. With my limited experience, if this is so, how come top racers don't ride 'em and are they that 'brutal and terrifying and dangerous' etc, etc, etc compared to 450's?
I mean, my few days on one I can see how powerful and fast they are and I was nervous the first few hours, but, not once did I feel it was gonna just up and kill me our of the blue!
:lol:
So, KX lovers, what are the objective downsides, if you can be objective, what's the negatives?
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Hey Larry,myself I would not want a bike with a sleeve in it because that will mean to me he just wanted to cheap shot it, go with a bike that the cylinder has been renikld and it would be better on the heat and Performance my friend.My top end went out right after I bought it the cylinder cost me under $250. I ask 5 different people and they told me about the sleeves and it is not a good thing.Look a the Subframe make sure the chain hasnt worn thru it and near the top of the frame near the seat.If he said he did the top-end you got to take his word for it unless he has proof.Is the bike clean? Was it kept outside? Did he do maintanace on it? Like I said I bought mine an 01 KX500 for $1800,top-end went, but I know it has a fresh rebuild like I want it, hope I helped you out,Peace, let me know what you done.
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"how come top racers don't ride 'em"
Kawasaki quite making them! I think it's all about $$$$.
The big guns tell the team what to ride, EPA coming down on manufacturers. Class rules in MX & SM.
I believe the 2 Smokes can run clean, but R&D costs money. Re-tooling, cost effective,yadda-yadda...
Downside? Parts availability, primarily. A gallon of pre-mix, (which is almost redundant compared to a top end service)
You could say they / We are bit of a Cult following, But whats wrong with that?
( It's all about the fun factor for me anyways) And a bit of Going against the grain...
As far as being comfortable on an open class bike has a bit to do with maturity (I think).
You can get in trouble in a hurry.
However I think you'll find these old girls are quite forgiving and with a minimum of work are at home in just about any environment you throw at them. Ice racing to Dune riding, Single Track to SM to Motocross & Hillclimbing,Sand Drags and Good Old PlayRiding. Sorry Mark, Land Speed racing takes a bit more than a sprocket & Exhaust Swap...
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Let me scare you.... these things are insanely fast. But now realistically, are you going to crank the throttle and hold it pinned wide open? No. Not very often at least. The great thing about this motor is that you can get in some tight woods, pop it down in second gear, and tractor around in the low rpms. Yes, the same exact bike that will stretch your arms out and give you whiplash when cranked wide open is also very manageable in the tight stuff in low rpms. Throttle control is key, but this bike is very rideable in many different conditions and at any speed. Insanely fast, but very rideable. Readers Digest version right there.
-G
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Let me scare you.... these things are insanely fast. But now realistically, are you going to crank the throttle and hold it pinned wide open? No. Not very often at least. The great thing about this motor is that you can get in some tight woods, pop it down in second gear, and tractor around in the low rpms. Yes, the same exact bike that will stretch your arms out and give you whiplash when cranked wide open is also very manageable in the tight stuff in low rpms. Throttle control is key, but this bike is very rideable in many different conditions and at any speed. Insanely fast, but very rideable. Readers Digest version right there.
-G
Amen! I took mine out for the first time this weekend, did some tight technical stuff and it was a pure delight to ride. Then in open terrain it flys!
I am in love, and bleeding green!
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are you going to crank the throttle and hold it pinned wide open?
Yup. :evil: :-D 8-)
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Let me scare you.... these things are insanely fast. But now realistically, are you going to crank the throttle and hold it pinned wide open? No. Not very often at least. The great thing about this motor is that you can get in some tight woods, pop it down in second gear, and tractor around in the low rpms. Yes, the same exact bike that will stretch your arms out and give you whiplash when cranked wide open is also very manageable in the tight stuff in low rpms. Throttle control is key, but this bike is very rideable in many different conditions and at any speed. Insanely fast, but very rideable. Readers Digest version right there.
-G
That's what I found on my two days on the thing; throttle control. I just want to ask these questions, given my inexperience, what I might not understand or may be missing about this. I love the things!
One thing I did notice; I wear glasses and there was a good bit of vibration so that it actually blurred my vision at higher speeds, just a bit. Anyone wear contacts? Does that solve the issue?
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hey larry ,
i use glases too ,but i don,t have issues like you.
lenses can work out real bad ,if dust comes behind it..man ..while @ WOT you just don,t want that
try sport utility glases,or buy one of these special mx goggles for replacing the one,s on your nose right now.
dunno the link but maybe someone will,or check google for it .
succes :-)
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hey larry ,
i use glases too ,but i don,t have issues like you.
lenses can work out real bad ,if dust comes behind it..man ..while @ WOT you just don,t want that
try sport utility glases,or buy one of these special mx goggles for replacing the one,s on your nose right now.
dunno the link but maybe someone will,or check google for it .
succes :-)
I wear MX goggs over the glasses.
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I wear goggles over my glasses and ride at wide open throttle a lot, at least when I have a wide trail. I dont really notice any distorted vision, but maybe I am just used to it. Throttle control is the secret to long life, nothing wrong with full throttle at the right place and right time. I just love the huge power of my 500 at wide open throttle, I love passing 450 four strokers that are topped out. I may not be the greatest rider in my group but I do have the most power and like to show that off.
John
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Lense Wears,
http://www.pro-vue.com/moto.html
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Lense Wears,
http://www.pro-vue.com/moto.html
good job !!
thanks man
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Lense Wears,
http://www.pro-vue.com/moto.html
I like it! Thanks!