KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: stock500 on October 21, 2008, 06:21:01 AM
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My chain adjuster bolt on my sprocket side has broken off. I have tried to turn it out but I can't seem to get it to turn enough to get it out. How the hell do get this thing out?
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a left-turning threadmaker dunno how its called in tech.english,
this way you can tap a smaller bolt in the original bolt,
and then you can loose it by tightening the smaller bolt
note :use a strong bolt 8.8 or more
good luck :-)
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There are a few options. Best is to get a screw extractor set. They are small tapered shafts with a reverse twisted ridge on them. Drill a pilot hole in the broken bolt, tap in the extractor and turn it out with the extractor. That is about the only sure way. Sometimes on a adjuster bolt (since you have good access from the side) you can use a hammer and sharp punch to tap near the perimeter of the bolt (on the broken face) to make it turn. Slow but effective. Hope these ideas help. Cam.
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stock5, is there anything left of the bolt sticking out? or is it broken off flush? cams extractor suggestion is good. however, you need to center punch the bolt so you are sure you are drilling in the center. if you get off to the side you will end up really ticked off. i see guys at work mess this up all the time. make sure you use some kind of penetrating oil when you start to extract the bolt. by the way, don't horse on the extractor. extractors are extremely hard and if you break an extractor off in the hole the whole project is pretty well screwed. welding is the only option after that. if i can help any further, feel free to give me a call. i'll pm you the phone number. MADDOGGY
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So.... my sprocket side adjuster bolt broke this weekend. Any ideas on what causes that to break? Is there really that much pressure on those where it snaps?
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Dont know if you have a Mig welder or not.... But my way of extracting bolts like this, is to get a nut.... set it over the broken bolt.... and weld them together.... helps if you use a smaller nut than the bolt (creates a guide so you dont get into the swing arm)... then you just remove with a wrench......
Makes it nice because your not at risk for drilling the threads out of the swingarm.
Also... if the bolt will spin freely, just doesnt have enough to get ahold of.... Try getting a drill.... (electric) and putting either a bad drill bit, or a piece of rod in it..... push it REALLY hard against the bolt, and spin it counter clockwise.... sometimes it will because of the friction cause the bolt to spin with the bit and walk it out.. (only works if the bolt spins freely)...
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So.... my sprocket side adjuster bolt broke this weekend. Any ideas on what causes that to break? Is there really that much pressure on those where it snaps?
I don't now if your wheel was far to the back. Thats wy Pro circuit sells asimetric axle blocks so that
the bolt doesn't gets to long and break.
Snap On sells Left turning drills, there are awsome. Not cheap but very good!!
Dutchie
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Once you get it out get some Never Seez and coat the threads. I use Zip Ty axel blocks. The bolt goes through the block and has a c clip that holds the block to the bolt. When you remove the axle the blocks stay on the bike.
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Those zip-tie blocks look like the way to go. Thanks for posting that up.
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Once you get it out get some Never Seez and coat the threads. I use Zip Ty axel blocks. The bolt goes through the block and has a c clip that holds the block to the bolt. When you remove the axle the blocks stay on the bike.
don't ever use silver antisieze on a bolt that contacts aluminum. the silver kind actually eats away at the aluminum and when you try to remove the bolt it will sieze up and you'll probably break it off and then the cussing will start.
trust me i've done it and learned the hard way. MADDOGGY
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Never Seez doesn't eat aluminum. Never Seez has aluminum in it. Never Seez is cheap insurance. But, you dont want to Never Seez every bolt because you would have bolts fallin out every ride. Chain adjuster bolts would be fine though because that bolt cant just fall out. Maddoggy, dont know what happened to your bolt but maybe it was cross threaded or cracked.
http://www.bostik-us.com/tds/TDSFiles/NSRegular.pdf
http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/general-ducati-chat/46667-how-do-i-avoid-galling-galvanic-corrosion.html
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Never Seez doesn't eat aluminum. Never Seez has aluminum in it. Never Seez is cheap insurance. But, you dont want to Never Seez every bolt because you would have bolts fallin out every ride. Chain adjuster bolts would be fine though because that bolt cant just fall out. Maddoggy, dont know what happened to your bolt but maybe it was cross threaded or cracked.
i've been paid as a master mechanic since i was 18 years old. i'm not saying that i know everything but trust me when i tell you not to do something. i wouldn't share the info if i hadn't experienced it. however, you can "never seez" every part on your bike and it won't make any difference to me. i am just trying to help.
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Never Seez doesn't eat aluminum. Never Seez has aluminum in it. Never Seez is cheap insurance. But, you dont want to Never Seez every bolt because you would have bolts fallin out every ride. Chain adjuster bolts would be fine though because that bolt cant just fall out. Maddoggy, dont know what happened to your bolt but maybe it was cross threaded or cracked.
i've been paid as a master mechanic since i was 18 years old. i'm not saying that i know everything but trust me when i tell you not to do something. i wouldn't share the info if i hadn't experienced it. however, you can "never seez" every part on your bike and it won't make any difference to me. i am just trying to help.
I sent Bostik an email which asked them if "Never-Seez" is safe to use on aluminum. Here is their response. You should call them if you have had experience with "Never-Seez" eating aluminum.
"Our Never-Seez products have aluminum in the product. There would be no
problem with using our Never-Seez products for your application. If you have
a concern please give me a call at 972-355-3791."
Phil Bentley
Bostik Representative
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the brand i used that led to this experience was PERMATEX. never seez brand may not cause the same problem, but past experience makes me gun shy of any silver brand. i now use the copper based anti-sieze exclusively. by the way, ever see how a tiny drop of silver anti-sieze can miraculously cover your whole body in minutes? :lol: the copper based products don't have that body covering effect either. MADDOGGY
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On the label of the Bostik Never-Seez I use, it says copper formula.
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I'll add this little note... Be very careful using never seez on aluminum parts. It may not "eat" aluminum, but the added lubrication on the threads makes it VERY easy to strip out aluminum threads so pay extra special attention when torquing things down.
-G
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While we are sorta kinda on the anti-sieze topic, I would like to add to it. I have found on automobiles that using either anti sieze or caliper lube on the slide pins on automotive calipers (even though it should ) does not work out very well. I think the heat from the brakes dries out the anti sieze or caliper lube and if left alone long enough the moisture from snow or rain eventually caused rust and the slider pins will stick. But by using high temperature wheel bearing grease ( that is not supposed to be used in this application)
you will find the caliper slider pins will stay free for years.
I have chosen to use the wrong product that provides the best results.
Also as probably everyone already knows,when two dissimilar metals make contact ( steel bolt to aluminum swingarm/chain block) an electro-chemical reaction occurs known as electrolysis. And the chance for corosion or siezure is very high, those anti-sieze products work great to prevent this. John
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Johnnie,
In reference to the antiseize drying out, is it feasable to mix the anti-sieze with your bearing lube?
I've been thinning out this old nuclear grade Anti-Seize can with WD-40.
I had gotten this several years ago and just sitting on the shelf the oils started to separate and lay at the top of the product.
After mixing up the stuff already in the can with a screwdriver, I scoop a small amount out of the can and thin it out in an old jar lid and apply with a brush. I rekon it ought'a work with high temp bearing lube also. It may also cut down on the
electrolosis, :? ( if you don't have the stuff with copper instead of nickle/chrome..) ?
Tuck \o/
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Friar Tuck
I actually have tried mixing anti-sieze with wheel bearing grease and it does thin out the product, but I dont know if it will stay thin or separate. This is mostly trial and error stuff, where I try something and see the results a year or two later. I have found that WD 40 dries out quite quickly and have learned that is is actually a water dispersant, thus the initials "W D " I am currently using PB Blaster for penetrant and it seems to be the best penetrant,I have not tried Kroil -oil penetrant, but have heard it is very good. I also really like using "Tap Magic" in stead of engine oil when tapping threads, they make Tap Magic for aluminum threading as well, works better than oil. Try it you will like it.
Sorry for straying from the broken chain adjuster topic, but this stuff is distantly related, to broken bolts and the prevention or repair.
It's too cold to ride the KX now and the snow is not quite deep enough to ski.
John