KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: demographic on October 05, 2003, 04:40:55 AM
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Right , my reason for starting this thread is to (hopefully) provide a resource for information on how to combat those little niggles that can be a problem to KX owners.
Please contribute your ideas cos that way it should grow and help us all out.
Fault
The top exhaust mount (under the tank) on just about ALL KX 500s breaks.
Fix
Get a welder to reinforce it with 1/8" by half an inch flat steel.
The chain seems to rub on the inside of the rear subframe (on mine anyway) so I cut a length of aluminium which is aproximatley half an inch by a sixteenth of an inch thick angle and about 6 or seven inches long (I am writing this at my girfriends house so don't have exact measurements) ans rivet or screw it onto the frame so it wears instead of your expensive subframe.
Destrys bike has this mod cos I have seen a picture in a MX mag and could just make it out on the piccy.
Fault
Aparentley they also can shear woodruff keys which allows the flywheel to slip round and then your timing is out.
This can be caused because the crank end taper is not an exact match for the tapered hole in the flywheel
Kickback anyone :shock:
Fix
Remove your flywheel and woodruff key from the crank end taper.
Put a dab of valve grinding paste onto the taper and then put the flyeheel (minus the woodruff key) back on but don't put the nut on.
Lap the two surfaces together by turning the flywheel until they are evenly matt in colour.
Wipe ALL the grinding paste off the taper and use carb cleaner to get it out of the inside of the flywheel cos it's a bugger to get out otherwise.
Reasemble it all and tell the folk with YZ 490s about what you have done cos they have this problem also (acording to Eric Gorrs book anyway).
Thats all I can think of for now but I will post any more if I think of any.
Please add your KX faults and fixes to this thread and any suggestions you come up with :)
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The leaky countershaft seal. Not really the countershaft seal but the o-ring behind the metal collar.
I took the metal collar out, tossed the o-ring into the trash can and took alittle metal from one end of the collar. I then took another o-ring (not the expensive little booger from Kawasaki, one from Home Depot :wink:
This o-ring has the following specs:
1-1/8X7/8X3/32 it is a #17 o-ring from Home Depot stock number 35734B
I used the "Scientific Method" of grind a tiny bit and check the fit until it fit well, so I don't have an exact amount to remove from the collar. This mod had prevented that leak for well over a year.
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Just thought of another.
If your like me and think that a Boyeson ignition cover looks better and more importantly, stronger that the cheesy plastic item they have standard. you should be aware that they don't fit over the 14 ounce Steahly flywheel weight I have fitted............
bugger :roll:
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DRAIN PLUGS.....or.....actually, Drain Plug threads in CASES!
Simple fix:
1. Engage brain before fidling with it (Don't OVER torque the bolt...that's a good start)
2. Get an Aluminum Drain Plug with a magnet in it (Zip-Ty...cheap v. fixing your cases!) The Aluminum (Aluminium, for Sir John...) is less likely to strip the threads outta the cases in the event you missed item -1-.
3. Drill and Safety-wire your plug. This will aid in your confidence since you didn't get to "Crank" on it like you wanted to! :shock:
In my "Introduction" where I listed all the goodies on my bike...I failed to mention the "Insert"(!) in my cases due to my TEAM-MATE (An educated engineer, non-the-less!) tore the threads out when new! :oops:
Best of Luck....I should be riding today...no rest for the Wicked, I guess! :evil:
Manny
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The linkage likes grease,especially the small linkage bearing in the shock.The K5 sucks a lot of air so with that you get a lot of dirt,clean your air filter or check it each ride(I know its a maintenance thing,not a flaw.)I rerouted my clutch cable and keep it lubed,extended my clutch arm 8mm(8 or 10,it was a long tme ago so not sure) and bought a cluth perch with an easy adjust and a bearing in the lever.I didnt do this but I hear polishing the actuater rod helps to.The sub frame mounts near the tank needs some gussets added.You should keep fresh o-rings in the pipe and high temp silicone to keep the pipe from rattling.Foot peg mounts will spread over time,use Terrycable/Ty-Davis or ProCircuit mounts(up date to newer style if your on a older bike and having spare foot peg springs is a good idea.And of course if you have the older kick starter get a new one and keep the old one as a spare,I just ordered one after braking mine in a bad place(but do things ever brake in a good place?)cost me $94.36!Id write more but its off to work.
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My KX500 has a negative effect on all other bikes around it. It makes them slower. :)
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What makes it real fun is you can get a used K5 for a few thousand or a new K5 for $4999.00 and smoke the $6500.00 four bangers,even after they dump a boat load of money in them to make them faster!Sorry four strokers,just in fun!
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Nothing to be sorry about...
Sorry four strokers,just in fun!
Like the old saying goes "Truth hurts don't it?" :lol:
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Yup!
Manny
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two years ago, when I was shopping to replace my 94 KX500 I considered a KTM 520MXC, killer bike except for the price $7999.00, I purchased my 01 5hunny brand new in june of 01 in Denver for $4153 including tax! A fellow can get a great deal if he shops, when I purchased my 94 it was new, but had sat on the floor for nearly 3 years, i bought it in Nov of 96 for $4074 in Kansas City. When you look to step up to a new 1 spend some time shopping.
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Kelly's Kawasaki - local Mesa, AZ dealer - will sell you anything on the floor for $1000 below the ticketed price during the month of January every year. I got my '01 for $3799.00 (sticker) and $4083.93 out the door.
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Water pump seal...but what can you do???
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Talked to Kelly Kawi, they said they'd never heard of such a deal. Me and my office mate were considering 3 of em...maybe we'll find a deal somewhere. I've got an offer in on an '01 for 2600 used, no paint off of frame. sooner or later i'll have a kx motard and dirty :lol:
mo
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Thats very odd, it's on the local radio station, 98 KUPD, every year in the Dec / January timeframe. The first year I heard it was the year I bought mine. Since then I've heard it each of the last two years.
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Check Valley Kawasaki. Last time I was there I saw a 2003 for 3650.
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My '01 KX5 hasn't idled worth a dang since the day I bought it off the showroom floor. I doesn't matter how I jet the thing either. It frustrates the hell out of me since I do alot of tight woods riding and idle alot. I have to keep revving it to keep it running. Replacing the stock reed valve with Boyeson Power reeds seemed to help. I still had to cut some of the spring off of the idle screw so I coud turn it in further. :? Any ideas???
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Mine has a similar problem but not as bad. It will idle for approximately 15-30secs before it dies.
It's a pain in the rear.
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It appears that fuel tank cracking may be a common problem. My 99 cracked and leaked near the left side shroud mounts this summer. The 97 that I sold my buddy just cracked and leaked in a similar location. Has anyone else had this problem? Any one have a stock tank they want to sell?
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My tanks been in use since '95-no leaks or cracks.
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If you're having jetting and/or idling problems, post what jets you are currently using and where you live.
I live in Ohio and have a 52 slow jet. My bike idles but I think it's still a tad too rich.
Also take a look for vacuum leaks.
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1. If the problem is that the engine comes to a sudden stop, an extra flywheel weight would help keeping the engine in motion.
2. If the engine slowly decrease the rews until it stops, check the carburetor jetting. (Usualy too rich, check the spark plug or the fumes when you start the engine).
3. If the idle "rolls" up and down, that would indicate a leak on the vacuum side.
This is my experience...
//John
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I have recently bought a KX 500 from Price Racing out of Las Vegas, It was one of Shane Esposito's practice/race bikes. The bike is awesome.
Some of the things they did to bullet proof it for desert racing were to:
Heliarc weld the entire frame.
Reweld the radiators.
Weld on protective loops for the waterpump and ignition.
Install a Hinson Clutch.
Take apart the airbox and seal it with good sealant
PC Valving for Desert 210lb rider Pro Level
PC KYB works fork kit
Installed a Pro Circuit Bladder in the shock
IMS footpegs and mounts
Renthal Bars and Sprokets
Mild Porting by PC
PC Pipe and jetting specs.
Extended clutch arm
Balanced crank from Falicon
Rear Disc Shark Fin
Excel Wheels, Talon Hubs, and Bulldog Spokes and Nipples
GPR Anti Vibe Bar Inserts/Stabilizer
BRP Chain Guide
IMS Tank with dry break valve
The only thing I didn't get was the trick PC forks that Team Green' Desert racers are using on their KX 500s. Great pic in new Cycle News shows forks that have much less underhang. I am sure they are probably late model KX 250 forks with nitiride coating
Since I have had it I have drilled out the gas tank mounts and ran a 6mm or 1/4'' bolt through the tabs to tie everything together. Now it is grade 12.1/8 with a double sheer.
I replaced the crank bearings with close complement bearing that have two extra rollers as compared to stock. Kaman Bearing in San Diego had them.
Installed time serts in all of the head studs.
I also drilled out the top shock mount on the frame and replaced it with a longer bolt that enabled me to get al nyock nut on it. The bolt I used was off a 1987 Fourtrax 250. It is the upper/lower A-frame bolt. They come in different lengths so make sure that it is long enough that the spherical part of the shock won't be riding on the threads.
Keep suspension and motor bolts tight.
This bike hauls and rides super smooth. I am getting ready to start racing again after a long layoff, that whole school thing.
BE SURE TO USE LOTS OF LOCTITE, BOTH RED AND BLUE!!!!!!!!!!!
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Sounds Realllly familiar... :lol:
Manny
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Installed time serts in all of the head studs. quote]
Lost me there mate.
I don't want to sound stupid but what are time serts :?:
Understood the rest but that one baffled me
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Sounds like a great addition to the family.
One thought. On the top shock bolt, instead of drilling out the threads, just purchase a stock top shock mount bolt from a newer KX125 or 250. They use the same threads, but are longer, so you can add a nut to the bolt after you screw in place.
Just a thought...
Rick
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Time sert are like a Helicoil.New threads,as in threads for a bolt.
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could it be Keensert?
http://www.keensert.com/
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Time sert are like a Helicoil.New threads,as in threads for a bolt.
Ahhh, Helicoil.
Got it now :)
Ta muchly
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Thanks for keeping me honest.
Sorry for the confusion. A time sert is an insert that replaces the threads by swagging the threaded insert into place where I think a keen sert has the hole brouched then is inserted. A time sert is kind of a cross between a heli coil and a keen sert. Just my two cents
http://www.timesert.com/
Also thanks for the idea with the longer late model KX 125/250 bolt. I drilled mine out because the threads got hammered from coming loose.
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does anybody got any pictures of the top exhaust mount rig?
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What about the viberation? It is really bad!! Any rubber mounts or anything that can be done? It's to the point of annoying.
THanks
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Short of getting the crank dialed in to zero (no runout), there are only a few things you can do:
- Switch to Pro Taper bars...more flex
- Switch to big fat "Pro" grips. For less than $10 you won't believe the difference.
- Bar inserts. These are brass inserts that you stick in the end of each bar, and they ride on rubber orings.
- Loosen your grip on the bars...assuming you are running a Scotts dapener. Riding more relaxed without the death grip on the bars was the single best fix for vibration, as less vibration is transmitted when you don't hold on as tight.
- I think Paul swaps the rubber bar mounts for solid mounts, but I have never tried this change, so can't comment on it's impact on reducing vibration trasmitted to the eye balls through your arms. (after 75 miles on a bike with lots of vibration, my eyes go numb :shock: )
Of course, you can always change your sprockets to 15/40 so you don't have to rev so high. :wink: :lol:
Rick
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Never thought about Grips. Any suggestions? If I remove the center bar (thingy that hooks from one side of my renthal bar to the other) would that help?
Thanks
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If you are running a 7/8" renthal bar (stock bar clamps), you might want to leave that center bar in for strength and support.
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I have heard that filling the bars with silicone sealant (like you put round the bath) helps reduce vibration.
Another way of doing this is to fill a plastic tube with silicone then put the tube into the bars (bit like a Bar Snake). I was goin to try this method but the plugs that hold my Barkbusters in place won't come out :roll:
I seem to remember both these cures coming up on dirtridernet but I have not tried them so can't comment :?
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I used expanding foam,works and its lighter than silicone.
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Did the expanding foam help?
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I didnt have any thing to compare it to,but yeah it helped mine.
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It was easy to build a sharkfin for the rear disk. Got some .375 scrap aluminum for free. Shaped it and drilled a few holes for appearance and got a friend to weld it to the rear brake caliper holder. Works great and cost zippo.
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What? No mention of cracked exhaust bridges or rear brake levers rubbing the cases or sticking holes in them during road/dirt/bike interfaces?
I think the biggest fault has got to be the purple colour (yes I'm Englisher) scheme that Kawasaki cursed the bike with in the 90's. :D
Oh, I'm a friend of Demographic, you can blame him :D
I'm currently rebuilding from scratch, a 1995 KX500 Supermoto (tuned and making about 65hp ATM) got lots of goodies to go on it but need the frame and engine sorted first, got a rebuild post going on Allthingsmoto if anyone's interested.
Ta ta. :wink:
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What? No mention of cracked exhaust bridges or rear brake levers rubbing the cases or sticking holes in them during road/dirt/bike interfaces?
I think the biggest fault has got to be the purple colour (yes I'm Englisher) scheme that Kawasaki cursed the bike with in the 90's. :D
:wink:
Brake lever/casing rubbing can be sorted by bending it out slightly. And you can stop the cases getting damaged in a fall by welding KDX style frame loops onto the two tubes under the engine, a good time to do this would be when you have just removed the paint and before you powder coat it....................
if you also get a mild steel plate welded onto the bottom frame tubes (like a skid plate but welded on) which will stiffen the frame a tad and add life to one that might be slightly battered on the underside..........
dunno who I could be thinking about when I mention those though.
You could even use a stainless plate instead of mild steel but make sure that you use something like 19/9 chrome/ nickel plate and 25/12 chrome/nickel welding rods as used to weld together dissimilar metals.
If you go to a fabrication shop they should know what I am on about and have some of the right stuff.
Think the 19/9 stuff gets called 304 grade stainless
Just don't forget to put a hole in to drain the oil through :wink:
Oh aye the purple was a bit dodgy :shock: