KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: stock500 on May 06, 2008, 05:07:52 AM
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I have never had to replace a clutch on any of my older bikes, but I think my 2004 500 is in need of a clutch. The clutch is not slipping when I accelerate, but the shifting seems to be a little more harsh, and I just changed the oil. When I pull the clutch in and I am just coasting to a stop, as I downshift the rpms jump a little bit each time. Also when I am stopped and I put the bike in gear It almost kills on me because of the drag on the motor. The clutch pull feels like there is plenty of room in the range for the clutch to engage fully. What do you guys think.
P.S. If I replace the clutch should I get heavy duty springs? My bike is bone stock.
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I recently replaced my clutch [93' 500],and opted for the heavy duty springs.All works well but the heavy springs added about 25% more effort to the clutch pull.The replacement clutch I got was an EBC from Rocky Mountain[excellent service].
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Stock: You don't need a clutch you just need to adjust the one you have ....when you pull the cable it isn't moving far enough to disengage the clutch......screw the adjuster out at the clutch perch so it has about 3-4.. between the lever and perch at the widest point of the gap....if there isn't enough adjustment room there you'll have back the adjuster in, then go down to the cable adjuster on the motor and get some more cable tension there (not too much) but to where you can finish the adjustment at the clutch lever......that way it gives you a place to adjust it without needing tools
Raptor : By an "EZ-PULL" for your clutch...I got one and love it.........km
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It's been awhile since I have been around the 500 but I don't remember any adjustment to made for the clutch cable down at the engine. Sounds like you clutch plates are sticking together, from a dead stop that would cause the bike to stall or even surge forward while holding in the clutch and shifting the engine into gear. Over heated clutch plates like to stick together.
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There is the adjustment at the lever and another at the number plate.(Front Plate) You should have some play in it. It should not be tight to the perch. If you are tight to the perch with no adjustment then you need to replace the cable or clutch disks. I've found that mine needs to be a little tighter after warming up and that I always have a little drag when in gear. Thats why it is easier to start in neutral. IMO, you are not needing a new clutch, unless there is a bunch of hours on it. I don't quite get the downshifting issue, but it could be the k5-surge that is common to them all. Be sure not to overtighten clutch pivot bolt, also. It is backed up with a nut so you can have an easier clutch-pull.
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I guess the best way to describe the downshifting issue is this. When I am down shifting it feels like I don't even have the clutch pulled in. I will check the cable adjustment, and the perch adjustment tonight when I get home. Thanks for the advice. I might just be over cautious. I am the second owner of the bike, and the original owner barly rubbed the paint off the frame with his boots. I have not been on the bike much yet either, so I thought it would be early for a clutch to go out. I never race, and almost never slip the clutch, and I use pro honda gear oil. Last night when I was riding around my field I could stop in 1st gear and my bike would idle, and not want to creep forward. If I need to change the clutch is that a pretty easy job? I am somewhat handy.
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Stock,
Changing a clutch is easy. My DP clutch had stiffer springs but I also extended the actuation arm 8mm so the overall pull was much less than stock. You might want to take it appart and have a look anyway. Generally a worn out clutch will slip, but it is also possible to break a friction plate causing it to drag. As hughes said an overheated clutch can have the plates stick together. Take it apart and have a look. Cam.
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Cam, what did you use to extend the arm on your clutch? You are talking about the arm down on the engine right.
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stock500, i had the same thing happen to my k5. I was riding on the west slope of the bighorn mountains and i started to notice that the clutch seemed to be fading fast, not slipping but it just didn't seem to want to disengage all the way. the funny thing is that i couldn't feel a change in the clutch pull or any loosness at the lever. so i rode back to the truck to have access to tools, and i found that the adjustment locknut at the lever had backed off and the cable was loosening all on its own. like i said, i could not feel a difference at the lever. my actuation arm has been lengthened as cam suggested and it really makes a noticable improvement to the ctutch pull. MADDOGGY
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Can you buy a new arm that is longer, or do you have to make one?
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as far as i know the "release" as kawi calls them is only available as OEM. my arm was already modified when i got the bike. if you're handy in the shop then you could remove the arm assembly from the case and do the mod on the bench. i think it would be pretty hard to do if it were still on the engine, though not impossible. MADDOGGY
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I'm kinda new to the KX ,,,whats an "e-z pull",,,?Where to buy?
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I have an E-Z pull. Its in a tool box. It sucked for me. Wasn't much easier, and there's alot of slack in cable plus too much friction inside the part that has the leverage. Check that the pivot bolt is not overtightened. A Magura Hydraulic clutch is awesome. ($200) When you first pull on it, you will wonder if its even hooked up. Self adjusts and as smooth and easy as it will get. Look to replace clutches when you cannot get any slack at the perch or is slipping noticeably. Stay AWAY FROM SYNTHETICS DESIGNED FOR CARS AND TRUCKS. Teflon coating the plates will cause them to fail.
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It was easy to extend the clutch arm. I found some steel that was the same thickness and cut out an 8mm piece then cut the arm and welded the piece in. You can go up to 10mm and maybe more with no issues. Makes a huge difference. I also rerouted my clutch cable but I am not convinced that it did much. My clutch is easy to pull and the feel is quite a bit nicer than my new CRF. I may have some pics of the mod in my gallery. Cam.
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I think I will try extending my clutch arm this weekend.
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Requesting ordering information on the Magura Hydro you mentioned! Pleasey-please!
In the meantime... I've yet to use my ARC-welder... That 8mm extension sounds like a good easy project to try for a 1st-timer. I'll just make sure to do a ton of practice welds with that similar thickness steel before attempting it.
I didn't really think much about my clutch pull until the crash. This other (total Newbie) dude who rides a CRF250X was all saying "his clutch lever feels like there's something wrong!" or something like that when he was trying to get the bike into neutral so he could load it into the other guys truck when they fetched me from the desert floor.
I'm pretty sure my clutch is fine. I went to give the lever a squeeze the other day and it seemed to actuate fine, the way I remember. So I figure he just was trippin' since his lil' 250 probably has a girly-man clutch pull.
But checking the feel at the lever did make me notice that it does require an awfully strong pull. Something definitely needs to be done there.
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Motosprot outlet has the magura clutch pull. Its the lever, perch, the line, and the actuator. You use the same arm down on the case. You'll think its not even working when you pull it in until you see it moving the arm. Heads up though, it comes with a plastic line that melts pretty easy on exhaust. They also sell a replacement line that is braided steel for like 30 bucks that is very sweet. Also can get shorty lever. 1-877-674-3571
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Have any of you found a good way to remove the needle bearings for the actuator arm from the dead end pocket in the LHS case? Back when I rebuilt my motor with all fresh bearings, I remember not being able to find a solution (including several dealers) and ended up taking the cases to a machine shop.
Anyone come up with any good methods for this?
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I was looking for a tool as well, Ultimately I ended up making my own. I used a bolt that was 1/2" cut the head off and came in just from the end and machined it down to 12mm, on the threaded end I drilled a 3/16" hole almost all the way through the bolt, from the other end I drilled a 1/16" hole till it met up with the other, then I slit the bolt so I had 4 slits. then I took a 1/8" rod pointed one end and slipped it into the 3/16" holeand left a little extending out the bolt. I made a collar that would fit a old slide hammer and the bolt. So you push the bolt through the bearing till the little lip has passed through the bearing, then when you tighten the slide hammer, collar, bolt it pushes the rod down through the bolt causing the split end to expand, then I heated up the area around the bearing and used the slide hammer to remove the bearing. Worked like a charm.
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The tool is called a "blind hole bearring puller" it is basically a rod and at the end it has a nut that you tighten which spreads the bottom, then a small version of a slide hammer on the upper half yanks it out. Locate a guy that has that tool and you find a guy that probably has every tool. Its pretty simple to get out the top bearring, but the bottom one definately needs that tool.
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The tool is called a "blind hole bearring puller" it is basically a rod and at the end it has a nut that you tighten which spreads the bottom, then a small version of a slide hammer on the upper half yanks it out. Locate a guy that has that tool and you find a guy that probably has every tool. Its pretty simple to get out the top bearring, but the bottom one definately needs that tool.
I have that tool, unfortunately it won't reach the bottom bearing, which is why I made the tool.