KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: chrisorbics on June 16, 2007, 01:39:38 PM
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Hi I was just wondering how good the stealthy flywheel weights are. I heard that they make the bike easier to start. Someone else said that they do not foul out spark plugs anymore after using a weight. Also I can not find the stealthy website. Any help would be great.
Chris
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Yep, lots of the guys run them! Check out these posts!
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php?action=search2
Alan :-D :-D
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Its spelled Steahly not Stealthy. :-Dwww.steahlyoffroad.com
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Hi I was just wondering how good the stealthy flywheel weights are. I heard that they make the bike easier to start. Someone else said that they do not foul out spark plugs anymore after using a weight. Also I can not find the stealthy website. Any help would be great.
Chris
I rode my KX for about 2 months without a weight. Now, I won't ever throw a leg over a 500 2 stroke without one. Flywheel weights do an amazing job at smoothening out the nasty torque hit, and turning that hit into unbelievable tractor like traction!!
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monkeybuttparts.com has the best price on their kx500 steahly f.w.w. $99.00
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I have a KX500 flywheel weight that is like new, comes with the special tool to install it and has the instruction. Dont remember what I paid for it, I will look that up tonight. E mail me if you are interested . jcwyma@yahoo.com John
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I thought flywheel weights robbed power?
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I think it has to. I think the idea is that extra inertia keeps the power steady and will bog and die less at super slow speeds on tight trails. Seems like a fix for a 125 or maybe even a 250. I think the 500 has alot of bottom grunt and plenty of inertia in its crank. It may help guys who want to use the clutch less, I would tell them to try a hydraulic clutch pull and keep the power.
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I have a flywheel weight and my experience is no power loss. The extra weight on the flywheel stops the rpm from spinning up so fast. There is a point at low rpm, so low the weight of the stock flywheel can't push the piston over top dead center because of the gasoline combustion. You know killing the engine and it jerks to a stop and almost puts you over the bars? With the extra mass of a flywheel weight the flywheel can push past top dead center at lower rpm's. That's my finding when riding the tight rock strewn trails in the Kiamichi mountains in S.E. Oklahoma. In the sand dunes or open desert you would be better off without a flywheel weight. You want the engine to spin up fast. I'm not a racer so I don't need the engine to spin up that fast. I like hill climbing and trail riding with the occasional trip to the dunes. FMF Gnarly pipe, Moose reed spacer and Stealy weight helped tame the brutal rpm "hit" of my bike.
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I have a Steahly flywheel weight and it was my final mod to make the bike a true "woods" machine. I does exactly what it is suposed to do.....give better control and much more traction in the low to mid part of the power band and flatten out the hit just a little at the top end. Here are the other mods......PC Platinum II pipe and 296 silencer, moose reed valve spacer and VForce II (not III, II) reed valve. When I put the Vforce in (it has two settings, hard and soft I believe) I had it set on hard (stiff) and I found it gave the bike even more hit at the top. I changed it to soft and it made a world of difference at bottom and midrange. I dropped the needle one notch and went two sizes lower on the pilot also. The engine is perfect for the type of woods riding we do. I put a lighting coil in when I added the flywheel weight so I don't know if that added to the effect.
When I bought the bike two years ago, it was impossible to ride in the woods and fouled plugs EVERY ride. Finished the mods in June of 07 and haven't fouled a plug since.
I run Klotz oil at 50:1 with at least 91 octane gas.
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Compared to 4 stroke usability how is the power delivery. My last bike was a Husky 610 and it was like an armchair to ride. My mate bought it(long story...) and we ride together. Sometimes my kx500 brings me to tears how brutal it is on the rutted out hillclimbs. Then i hop back on the old husky and at the moment im way faster on that than the k5.
I feel the k5 will be an awesome machine for me in about 2 yrs when ive hardened up a bit, but at the moment i need to chill her out a bit. This weight seems the goods. Also the reed spacer. There are posts on here from guys that have done them all Reed sp, flywheel, and gnarly pipe.
is there anyone who has tested them individualy to see which one makes the biggest diff?
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WRX,
Here is what I feel made the most difference listed from best to least (for single track woods riding).
1. Jetting
2. jetting
3. Gearing (not too low 14/48 for me)
4. Gnarly pipe
5. boysen dual stage reeds (or v force)
6. Reed spacer
7. FWW
As you can see I list the FWW as last. My bike was so smooth after the mods that I didn't need the FWW. I put one on only because I had run out of things to add to the trusty K5. The FWW was a nice addition and did make a difference but not as much as I expected, compared to other 500's I had put one on. Keep in mind that jetting is NUMBER 1. Cam.
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i have a 165 main and have set it up as per the jetting chart for my eleveation and temps and as is i love the mid range power hit all the way to up top but its when it gets technical it gets a little scary. i think i did the mistake of trying the 13-50 gearing, its hurting when i get fatigued.
how do you jet it for smooth bottom end. bigger pilot(more fuel and bogging?) or smaller pilot(crisper but less fuel for less bang?)
does Gnarly pipe increase bottom end and rob up top?