KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: robert40215 on March 19, 2007, 03:02:25 AM
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I have gotten my 1986 kx500 to start. But this sunday after it sit for a day it will not start since it keep flooding and leaking out of the overflow hose again. Do I need to adjust the floats again? And I am using ngk b8eg plugs. Is there a better plug for this bike? I had to much oil mixture in the gas but I mixed up some more and to see if it would run better. But it wouldn't start it would try to start so I think since it was flooded it would not run. Is there a different way to keep from flooding.
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If the float has been adjusted corretly then you just might have a worn needle or seat. If the bike is sitting up right on a stand or side stand fuel should not over flow out the vent lines.
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Robert, there are 19 pages of posts related to jetting and carb adjustments in the KX500 maintenance section, called Jetting again & again. You need to read that information over and also I strongly suggest you to purchase a book on your bike. The carb is one thing you must get absolutely right or you will have all kinds of problems! :-) :-)
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I have a clymer manual. And have done what it says to do. I can adjust the tang and for a couple of days it doesn't overflow. Then later it starts overflowing gas. So I am just getting a fuel valve needle and see what it does then. And I have some guy at a repair shop going to look at what could be wrong with the bike since it ran one day and next day it won't run.
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Ok, Good I am glad you have a book!
If it is simply running to rich you need to you may need to rejet it. Things like simply changing oil mixtures also change your mixture, like say the bike has been using 32:1 mixture and you decide to change to a new Synthetic oil and go to 80:1 you will have more gas and less oil and the bike will run much richer with the same jetting.
If it is still running out of the carb you need to replace the needle and seat.
Alan :-D
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I will try to carb rejetting this week and then see how it does. Is there a spark plug that I can buy that is better than ngk b8eg.
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I use platinum or iridium plugs, they are expensive, but I don,t like pushing a dirt bike in the desert at 100 Plus!
The single best thing that stoped me fouling plugs, was Reed Spacer! :-D :-D :-D
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What does the reed spacer do and where do I buy one?
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http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,1737.0.html
:-D :-D :-o :-o :-o :lol: :roll: :roll: :-o :-( :-) :-D :-D :-D :-D
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Here is a link about plugs and fouling.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,1462.0.html
BR8E(G)(medium duty-fine wire nickle) or BR8E(V)(race duty-fine wire gold platinum), instead of an BR9E(S)(standard duty-copper core). The lower number is hotter and larger number is cooler. Dunes 9, track 8, woods 7, so to speak. R=resistor-newer gen for less radio frequency interference.
Dang AlanI use platinum or iridium plugs, they are expensive, but I don,t like pushing a dirt bike in the desert at 100 Plus!
Plat Irids are what I need to get up over 100 MPH in the DUNES :evil: :evil: hehehe
Sly
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I was using ngk b9eg spark plugs for my 1986 kx 500. So I ordered NGK BR8EIX Iridium spark plugs so I want to know if these new spark plugs work better.
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Generally speaking the lower the number the hotter the plug. So assuming the carb was jetted properly and the plug was black with carbon and oil you could go to a hotter plug to avoid fowling out.
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One other thing I forgot to ask, did you just get this bike? What altitude are you at and where did the bike come from?
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Sounds like the float/needle and seat are worn and letting fuel by.
Also, if your bike is fouling plugs and the jetting is stock chances are there is a bigger underlying problem like bad crank seals letting excess oil in the chamber, low compression due to worn rings/wall, etc..
A hotter plug may fix your fouling plugs issue but sooner or later the underlying problem will come to the surface in a big way.
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I got the bike from a friend it was just sitting in the backyard for a year or two. I am in Kentucky it come from the same state. I know the bike runs since it worked the other day. I am going to try some higher grade of fuel after I receive the spark plugs I ordered. I had to much oil in the gas since it was smoking pretty bad when it was running. When I get it started I am going to let it run longer to heat the engine up before I turn it off. Oh I got the bike for nothing so any parts I put into it is fine with me since I didn't pay for the bike. A guy at a bike shop said he would look at the bike for like $60.00 an hour. But since it started up the other day I think there is nothing electrical wrong with it. It is just getting it to fire up everytime I kick it without hurting my foot. But If I put the choke down instead of up it will want to start but it would backfire a couple of times then start.
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I have got the it to stop flooding and I got it to kick over once today.
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Cool, more we all know about your KX the easier it will be for us to give advice.
Well man it sounds like the first thing you need to do is clean that carb completely and fill the bike with fresh gas. Sounds like you fouled a plug and have a gummed up carb.
LOL It kicks back huh? Sounds too advanced on the timing.
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If it starts flooding again you may want to check to see if the floats have a pinhole in them.
Just a thought.
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Just a new idea. You are most likely flooding the engine while you are trying to start it, getting the plug to wet. These things can be a little tricky to start. For my bike pilot jet size and idle mixture screw adjustments helped big time plus learning how to start the bike. There is another post about how to start the bike check it out. My bike sat for 3 months went riding this past sunday and bike started on the third kick. It's a learning curve for starting these bikes.
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I would surely heed Big Green Mach. advise and give the innards of the carb a proper cleaning, along with the fuel tank and fuel line.
I believe you had the carb off to replace the inlet valve, and cleaned out the bowl. There are diagrams of the carb at Sudco.com
and if you have the patience to follow the links at Kawasaki.com
Remove the choke plunger (14mm small brass nut at base of choke knob)
Main Jet (6mm)
Pilot Jet (small standard blade screwdriver)
Note the #'s stamped on the Main & Pilot and write them down.
(save's time later)
CAUTION !! DO NOT try to remove the smooth brass tube that extends from the inside of the carb body to approx 1/3 of the way down into the bowl, or the overflow tube in the bowl.
On the out side of the carb there are two screws.
The Knurled plastic one with the spring extending at an angle down is the Idle speed adjustment.
[if you have a small ruler measure the distance from the head of the screw to where it enters the carb body. This is not overly criticle, it's adjustable, and while you get her dialed in you will need to change its position]
The other small brass screw is just to the rear of the inlet side of the carb (choke side, where the carb boot attaches to the air box)
This is the air screw. The end of this screw is easily damaged, be careful. remove it and the spring (inbound).
Blast all the openings several times, most of the passages are small and easily gummed up. Refrain from running wire & such through them,
compressed air and cleaner should do the trick.
Keep the parts in a ziploc or tub to keep them together.
When you are ready to re-install every thing, care must be taken installing the air screw.
Slowly intall the air screw (with spring) until it gently seats (bottoms out) to much force and the end may be damaged.
Back the screw OUT one and a half to two turns
[depending on model].
And since you've got the carb off...six more 8mm bolts will take out the reeds and check for splits,chips or the reeds not lying flat against the reed block. This all sounds like a major operation but its about two hours to remove and check all these things out.
Some the other things affecting carbuertion are altitude and ambient air temp and humidity, modifications and oil/fuel ratio,clean air filter, fresh plug,etc.etc .
There are several good links in the jetting sticky. It may seem to be all greek at first, hang in there and before you know it you friends will be asking you for advice. (ie.Gowen)
Don't get discouraged, my best friend spent a month trying to get his '99 running, carburation, electronics,fuel ratio and on and on.
When the bike did start it would run a moment or two and then just die.
Ten to fifteen minutes kickin and would fire up and die again.
( I almost got that thing for hundred bucks)
His last resort was a complete ignition and wiring harness off ebay.
When he went to install them Lo and behold...
The woodruff key had sheared of and the flywheel was spinning on the crank. Sometimes it would be close enough to get the bike to fire and then would slip and the dern thing would die.
This link will help understand what all the carb does and how it works. http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html
Have patience, good luck.
Tuck \o/