KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kiwikx500 on May 08, 2006, 10:18:43 PM
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Is there any common parts along the electrical circuit that goes faulty ? Cheers 8-)
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No spark?? Disconnect the kill switch.
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I just fitted a new kill switch,it was switching the bike off when i pushed on it,will disconnect it though - thanks - its been an on going problem with spark before i fiited the kill switch,like something has been on the way out and may have finally given up.Can someone please tell me how reliable the electronic ignition and the generator that generates the electrical current for the spark are ? :-)
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Hughes i'll check in all the places you mentioned in the best place to test for a spark thread too,cheers 8-)
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I will check my KX5 service manual today and see what is in there trouble shooting section the CDI.
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Sounds good thanks Alan,Cheers 8-)
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Ok this is what I found in the Service Manual.
1st. the coil
3 needle arching distance 7 mm or more
Primary winding resistance 1.0 Ohm (+)or(-)15 %
Secondary winding resistance 5.9K Ohm (+)or(-)15 %
Next The trouble shooting section for no spark.
No Spark: Weak Spark
Spark Plug dirty, Broken, or Maladjusted
Spark Plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark Plug cap not in good contact
Spark Plug incorrect
CDI unit in trouble
ignition coil trouble
ignition coil resistor open
Flywheel Magneto Damage
Wiring shorted or open!
They forgot! Kill Switch!
Don't forget to let us know what you find, Please
Let me know if you need the CDI testing INFO?
I will have to scan it!
Alan
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Make sure your battery has a full charge.
Danger
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Make sure your battery has a full charge.
Danger
Ok guys stop looking for your battery that was a joke.
Danger
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My battery alright as the electric start working great lol,BIG thumbs up to you Alan - top man as always!
I will proberly not be looking at it for a few weeks now as went to the miss work social - karting,soon as i walked in and seen the seatbelts fitted to the karts i thought bad idea,went to pass one of my partners work mates on the back straight and she did not keep her track position and forced me between her kart and some tyres,was not so much the impact but more the snap lock seatbelt that has cracked some ribs :x,quite ironic really as i have a racing kart sitting in the garage that i have used for years with no injury,its like the dude that rides a big k5 then breaks a leg on his sons 80,will let you know when i track down the problem Alan - thanks,:-D
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Hope this helps,
Danger
Stator Coil Test Specifications (Clymer)
KX500
1983-1985 Ohms
Black/red to black/yellow 336-504
Red to black/yellow 14.2-21.4
White/red to black/yellow 10.4-15.6
1986
Black/red to black/yellow 432-648
White/red to white/green 4.0-6.0
1987-1989
Black/white to black/yellow 432-648
White/red to white/green 4.0-6.0
1990-on
Black/white to black/yellow 153-230
White/red to black/yellow 7.9-11.9
Ignition coil test specifications (Clymer)
Primary
KX500
1983-1986 0.85-1.15 ohms
1987 0.8-1.2 ohms
1988-1989 0.85-1.15 ohms
1990-on 0.26-0.36 ohms
Secondary
KX500
1983-1986 5.0-6.8 K ohms
1987 5.6-8.4 K ohms
1988-1989 5.0-6.8 K ohms
1990-on 2.6-3.6 K ohms
Flywheel (Rotor) Tightening Torque (Clymer)
KX500 N-m 78 ft.-lb. 58
Ignition Timing (Clymer)
KX500
1986 15deg. BTDC @ 6,000 RPM
1987-1989 17deg. BTDC @ 6,000 RPM
1990-on 19deg. BTDC @ 6,000 RPM
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This might help also, make copy.
Danger
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Cheers Danger4u2 top stuff! Was hoping someone might list some wiring diagrams,will be handy for future reference for other members too,it would be great to have a section on this site with wiring diagrams,exploded drawing of engine parts for each model etc,the scanner site i go to has user manuals for every uniden scanner which is handy if you are not home but near a computer, could work the same out in the bush with the K5 if something is not running right,the fault could be looked up on a wireless etc or for at home if a particular manual is not owned .
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There is a site on the net somewhere with the fische on it. Part numbers and all. www.bikebandit.com Check it out.
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1 out of it site! Cheers for that Timbowe,will be the shiz for identifying parts :-D
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Howdy everyone,hope all are well.
Late feedback,have been travelling the world :-)
Put an ohm meter today on the ignition coil,as in the digram Danger4u2 was good enough to post with one meter lead on the BLACK wire and the other meter lead on the HT lead - I Had an open circuit.
Verdict = coil buggered ????????
Between the black wire and earth I have a very low resistance circuit - Continuity,looks correct with regards to the diagram
Its prob the original coil,not bad for a 1990 KX500
Has the Mitsubishi symbol on the casing of the ignition coil
Have looked on www.bikebandit.com and US$67 probably 5 times the price here in New Zealand
Is the coil specially made for the KX500 ? Cause as soon as I say to the Mr Green dealership that the part is needed for the fastest motocross bike in the world it will be $$$$$$ ching ching $$$$$$$ ching ching :-o Me
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i have had a similar problem a few times in the past. with a yamaha banshee and my k5. i have also have this happen to some of my customers bikes.
case of the banshee, the bike was runng great. my buddy and i shut both of our shees' down for fuel. with in minutes no ones bike would start for about an hour. my understanding was there was a strog magetic field that passed and it temperarly making all CDI's useless... :?
on my k5 i ckecked everything... same story as kilkx. i replace dthe plug, fired on 1st kick. i have to get back to work if i think fanything i'll let you know
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Cheers dude
I strolled into the kawai dealer and he spotted a crack straight away around where the lead comes out of the coil,ordered a new one - going to take 2 weeks to get here from the land of the rising sun.
Shot to a mates work he pulled old coil apart around where crack was,then took lead out - it sits on a spike thread inside the coil like the spark plug cap end.
Because it had the crack and previous owner had used arallditeg glue to fix crack that had failed in time the lead came lose and must have been arcing between HT lead and coil spike stand off inside coil causing large heat inturn burning coil out and open circuiting.
Can not wait for the coil to arrive so can go kick some 450 butt! :-Should be like a new bike,spark been poor for most parts of ownership.
Cheers for all the feedback everyone,thumbs up to Danger4U2 and Alan for all the info the wiring diagram and especially the electrical values made it easy to isolate the fault :-D