KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kiwikx500 on April 30, 2006, 09:47:35 PM
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Out of your KX500, even if it was at the exspense of mid to high ? 8-)
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There are alot of tricks but gearing made a big change in my bike. I went to 14/49(I ride in the woods) and I don't need to clutch it to get it going. Reed spacer, good set of dual stage reeds, A pipe designed for that power output Pro Circuit Platuimn 2, Jetting, there is trick for the power valves to keep them from over closing. I did this and it seems to work. Do a seach here and you should fine it. Some other members will have some info for you.
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You can cut your silencer back a few inches and it will ruin the top-end. :'( Also, a flywheel weight seems to bring the power down.
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I'm running 14/51 gearing and man you can just lug it around like crazy in any gear. I haven't had an extended ride as of yet due to some stupid issues but I may have to go to a 49 tooth rear sprocket to get some more top end speed out.
My next mod will be a set of boyseen dual stage reeds and maybe a pipe, maybe not
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Like Alan says, a reed spacer is the best bang for the buck.
Dale
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dose it really hurt your top end that bad to cut a few inches off from the sinlencer. if so then how come?
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I've never done it, but my friends used to chop at their 125's to gain some low-end grunt to be competitive in the 4 stroke world. It works fine, but you lose alot of top-end. I'm sure somebody here can explain what and/or how it does this.
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For super low end, I would suggest that the flywheel weight is #1 mod. It's not more power but slows and controls the delivery so you can use more power. Cam.
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drop your barrel to reduce exhaust and trancsfer timing and wack on thicker head gasket to stop piston hittin head. This will give more low end power
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Put a thick spacer inside barrel exhaust before pipe,makes more headerlength and transform topend-power to more low "grunch".If you can weld,add a spacer on pipe and then reweld stock-inlet.
You can even make a new spacer like pic.
This toghter with Brett?s tips and a reedspacer will make it to trailbike for sure. :wink:
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Raise the compression, gear it down. The aforementioned reed spacers work well too.
From what I understand, and I could be wrong, the reason the shortened silencer helps bottom end is by increasing the back pressure. At higher rpm's the extra back pressure increases turbulence and hinders flow.
Or not. :evil:
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Put a thick spacer inside barrel exhaust before pipe....
You can even make a new spacer like pic.
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Make either, but make inside diameter smaller than stock. It cheap to try different diameter, but start although 2-3mm smaller.
Honda use on 500cc works bikes exhaust flange with different inside diameter depend of track.
I have my own experience of that too. I ride sometime earlier DirtTrack (1km=0,62mile track) with my then bike (Honda CR480). It has bigger hole in exhaust pipe than exhaust duct in cylinder. Of course :x :oops: I make to exhaust duct same diameter as pipe has. Everything else work fine, but starting out gone very very difficult. I put 2mm? thick washer with original exhaust duct inside diameter between pipe and cylinder and starting out work again fine! I was very happy then. :lol: