KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Original => Topic started by: kiwikx500 on April 26, 2006, 11:03:03 AM
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Whats the easiest way you find to start your bike ? ie couple of kicks first with no choke on with hands on handle bar and not on the throttle then kick over with choke on.
Interested in hearing your methods of starting the beast.Cheers 8-)
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The technique that has work for me for years on all my big bore 2 strokes is, (this is assuming that it is cold) Turn the gas and choke on, next lean the bike over till gas comes out the over flow tube on the carb, then give one slow kick through with no throttle. Then with the kick starter all the way up at the top kick the hell out of it! I have never met a big bore 2 stroke that will start with a wimpy kick. Maybe with the compression release system you could get away with it, but not a KX5. When it is hot I usually just crack the throttle just a touch as I am kicking it. The problem I still have is when it has cooled down for an hour or two and I some times beats me to death before I get it restarted!
Alan :-D
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I use a method that was picked up from this forum that requires fuel on , hook 2nd, and rock backwards then foward a few times to turn the motor over a little. Then get the kickstart lever biting at the very top of its stroke. Boot it like you mean it all the way to the footpeg. Have had great succsess with this method. Very seldom does it require a second atempt.
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Gas on, choke on, no throttle, three easy kick throughs, then one like you mean it usually does the trick. The guy I bought it from used Timbowe's method while he was off the bike, then put it on the stand and kicked her (he was altitude challenged).
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Cold: same as Timbowe, just with choke on from the very start. 1 or 2 kicks max.
Warm: 1 good kick with some throttle is usually enough.
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turn on fuel and choke kick through bout 6 time slowly, then get it on the compression stroke push the kick start down slow one click or till it just barely comes over the tdc then let it up and one hard stomp works for me every time.
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Cheers guys alot of food for thought,mine has started well so far but have a problem with my spark plug cap as my other post shows,just posted this post to see if there was a correct way.
Is the rocking backwards and forwards in 2 nd gear alright to do long term ? i do not want to put any unessasary wear on the gearbox especially a cold one ? I have seen my mates 5 hundie gearbox in pieces and there is alot of bits and pieces to it, equating to lots of dollars to spend when it craps it self.
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kiwikx500
Food for your thought:
Roadracers bump start their bikes all the time. I know, because I do it too.
It won't damage your gearbox. If it does go, then its because the damage was already there.
Kiwi, hmmm. What end of the isles are you at?
I'm down in the wet south (Dunedin)
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Cheers Im in CHCH Timbowie is in Timaru we have pins on the world map,if you place a pin for Dunedin that will be three kiwis all in the south island - Dunedin is such a kool place heaps of charcter i have had many a good night with m8's down in old dunners,we ended up one night in the Dunedin YMCA with three chicks we had dragged out of one of the clubs,it wasn't the best scenery in the YMCA the next mornng lolol,spot ya.
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I used to lay it on it's side and give a lord loving kick. But, now that I my jetting is on par, it fires up pretty much after one slow kick and one big kick. With the choke of course.
A few slow kicks then a hammer kick seems to fire it everytime for everybody I know. Good luck. If you don't mind a sleeve, check out the ebay company that sells the compression release kit for the big K.
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Kieran. How goes it chap? Tim @Timaru here. You got a Kx5? What type of road race bike do you run. I raced here and at Ruapuna for a few years a couple of years back. :mrgreen:
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I use Tim's method too. Cold: Choke on, rock back and forth in 1st 2X, 1 kick start mostly. Hot: just kick it, 1 kick start mostly. The big thing is to ALWAYS kick it like you mean it and always wear boots. Why? I once kicked my 400 Maico with loafers on. It kicked back right as my foot slipped off, caught me under the ankle bone and gave me a greenstick fracture of the leg bone. Day before a big race! Nice!. :x Cam.
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Cheers, Yeah I know what you mean about wearing boots,when i got my bike i took the mrs out to show off to her,i had had it out the day before and it run sweet,but the next day with the mrs it would not fire it did once but i took the joke off to quick,i was determined to get the beast going,i kicked and kicked proberly at least 50 times clad in only some cheap gumboots the raised part of the sole would not stay on the kick start so there was only a very thin layer of rubber between my foot and the kickstart,the day ended with my right foot in the cold river looking over my shoulder at the clean K5 sitting on ther trailer and a very bored looking mrs sitting in the car,lolol ( pain i will not forget :cry: )
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Like a couple other posts stated, I prefer the method of getting the kick pedal up to the top of the stroke, and then "kicking it like I mean it". Of course, since I weigh about 130 pounds.... :lol: I have to jump a bit by kicking up off the ground or off the footpeg with my left foot, and then pretty much jump on the kickstarter. Works for me in 1 kick when its warm, I recently fired it up after 4-5 months of sitting and it took no more than 3 kicks.
Definately recommend wearing boots. I had my converse all stars on the other day and 1 time was all it took for me to decide to go change footwear.
Still, not as bad to start as my old RM465. That thing would actually kick you back if you weren't careful. Turned the whole side of my calf an ugly bluish purple and gave me a gimp for the next couple days.
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130 lbs! Thats great power to weight ratio there!! Welcome to Kx riders BTW. :mrgreen:
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How I start my KX5 (before and after major ported rebuild):
COLD Start: use the choke. Added this following part I forgot at post time: First do about 3-5 slow kick throughs to just rotate the piston through a couple strokes and prime the pump then Slowly push the kickstarter down until the piston passes TDC and releases compression. Bring the kicker back up and push down one click (nudge). Then to the top and give a nice even kick (without hitting the footpeg - speed of initial kick is more important than a full stroke in my opinion - hitting the footpeg definately shortens the life of the already week KX5 kickstarter ----> check out how to make the kickstarter MUCH Stronger http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,2306.0.html
HOT Start: No choke and sometimes around half/full throttle to release some fumes (too rich) but the exact same kicking method.
Sly
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I've had my 5 for about 3 months, and I have my own personal method of starting dialed in sweet. Cold: pop tranny in second gear, and rock bike back and forth like three times (this easily draws some mixture into the crankcase). If possible I lean my bike against a wall or tree, and bring the piston just a tad BEFORE TDC. I then literally jump on the kickstart. My 5 consistantly lites off with one or two kicks. Hot: open the throttle to 1/4, and again jump on the kick lever, one kick get it going every time. Jetting plays a BIG role in ease (or not) of starting. My 500 when jetted stock, took a lot more kicking to get lit. I run 100% Cam II race fuel, and I am jetted WAY leaner than stock. My 5 runs perfect now. I think a big bonus is running race fuel.
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If possible I lean my bike against a wall or tree, and bring the piston just a tad BEFORE TDC. I then literally jump on the kickstart. Polar-Bus
d**n... I need to get a kickstarter like yours! Must be a doozie... Sly
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If possible I lean my bike against a wall or tree, and bring the piston just a tad BEFORE TDC. I then literally jump on the kickstart. Polar-Bus
d**n... I need to get a kickstarter like yours! Must be a doozie... Sly
I only weigh 155 lbs. Sometimes I jump off the roof of my garage, and if my aim is good I can land in mid air right on the kickstart lever (I just pray I don't get a backfire kickback...... then I get catapoulted through the air like a trapeeze artist! LOL
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Yesterday, I sadly removed all my studded tires, swapped my jetting over to spring/fall spec, and swapped back to my MX gearing. I hadn't started my 500 for a month. When my 5 sits for a long time, it taks many kicks to draw in some fuel. I thought I would try the "lean the bike over" method to see if this would work. I leaned my bike over hard, until some fuel spilled out the overflow. I gave the bike 1 easy kick, and on the 2nd full kick the bike lit right off! So this suggestion WORKS awesome!
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We can't forget the ONE main factor.......Kick it like you mean it!!! Cam.
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All my big bores were the same. Slow kick it until it's on the compression stroke with the kick starter at the highest position possible and jump on it like you caught it in your house in the middle of the night! It helps to recite "Who's your daddy" while repeating the process. :lol:
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I don't know the best way probably, but I usually kick it through about 10 times with the gas and choke on, with no throttle. I don't kick real hard until I'm sure it has gas flowing. Also, as with all kick-starting, try to push the kicker around to a compression stroke, then wind it up for a hard kick. If she won't go after a few solid attempts, I may crack the throttle during a kick or two. I always turn the choke off as soon as the bike's idle has a drastic change in its sound and RPM's. Every bike has a "personality" to it. Some bikes start better, if you lean them over until you see gas coming out of the over-flows. The 500 hundred can be a beast, to kick, and can wear-out a lighter rider, so try having a buddy hold the front tire and bars, so you can really get your weight into it.
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I tend to agree with Alan's method. For starters, wear boots or you are inviting a trip to hospital and an embarrasing story. pull the choke, lean the bike over, straighten up, gas should run out the carb overflow hoses, and then SLOWLY ease the kickstarter past top dead center (the maximum compression -- the kickstarter is hardest to push here). Let the kickstarter return to the top of its arc, and jump on it full force. It should fire up in a kick or two if jetting is right. When its hot, no choke should be needed.
Finally, if you have old gas in the bike, it could be cranky. My suggestion is to turn of the fuel petcock a minute before you shut the bike down, and then when you reopen the petcock (assuming you poured some fresh premix in to start the next ride), it gets fresh gas in the carb.
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Hi I heard that if you install a stealthy fly wheel weight it will make starting much easier. Does anybody have one of these? I would like to know how much easier it make starting. I was just out ridding today on my 1986 kx500 and man that thing takes some getting used to.
Thanks,
Chris
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The best way I have found is to first get off bike, then let friend start it for me.lol
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Hi I heard that if you install a stealthy fly wheel weight it will make starting much easier. Does anybody have one of these? I would like to know how much easier it make starting. I was just out ridding today on my 1986 kx500 and man that thing takes some getting used to.
Thanks,
Chris
Proper pilot jet size makes the bike easiest to start. I believe that the flywheel weight is supposed to give you more controllable roll-on power. I don't see how it would be easier to start. It does seem like it would increase the surge that k5's have when youy let off.
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Probably just repeating what others hav put, but Ive found the best improvement on mine after setting the float level. Ive tried starting similar bikes that people cry about being hard to start....and being the bikes fault. Stubborn people...If mine takes more than 2 kicks its because its fallen over, then 3-5.
Cold: Choke on, one slow kick - 1/8 throttle held open, kick from the top fast
Hot: 1/8 throttle and a fast kick from the top
BTW, Im 5'6" and 140
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I like to push start mine In first gear going up hill in the dirt :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I like to push start mine In first gear going up hill in the dirt :lol: :lol: :lol:
Always the kidder.
I second the no sissy kicks!
Fired mine tonight,insane! Sounds pissed off!
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The lean over method works best for my 500 also. Turn on the gas, choke it, lean it over just long enough for gas to start spilling, stand it up, give a couple of soft kicks, and giver her hell. That will bring my 04 to life on the 2nd or 3rd kick even on 30 degree mornings.
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Hold the red button and kick.... and kick.... and kick :evil: :evil: :evil:
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The lean over, wait for gas to spill out, hand full of soft kicks (with choke on), then kick with everything you have, works the best.
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Start with yer hand??? wow time for rings!!!!!
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Wow, by hand? My start up procedure is to wear boots. I mean a good pair of boots. I tried starting it with tennis shoes, and well lets say I did not go riding that morning.
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This method requires a running bike to begin with (!), but assuming that has happened:
- get your jetting close, especially the pilot (the ride around in circles with constant throttle method works well for me).
- once it's warm, set the idle adjust. No bog when twisting the throttle between thumb and finger, no bounce when it comes back down.
- set the idle speed so it runs smoothly (too low and it'll kind of struggle to stay running).
THen, for cold start:
- no throttle, full choke, 2 easy kicks and then kick it like you mean it once. Always starts for me - I've made the claim that this always works and now my riding buddies watch to make sure, just waiting for the chance to roost me if it fails.
for warm start:
- no choke, just the slightest 2 stroke throttle blip on the first kick, >90% of the time it will fire. If not on the first kick, try just a bit more of a blip. If it hasn't started by the 2nd kick, the idle adjust is off, I usually go an 1/8th turn leaner.
I've had the bike since '94, the first few rides it was a bear to start, but once I dialed in the jetting and the method I've had no problems. I used to giggle watching the 4stroke guys kicking themselves into oblivion, then kick mine once and roost them.
Every 1000 feet or so of altitude, or if it's a really hot dry day, I'll lean the idle adjust 1/8th turn for the 1st cold start.
Usually only have to tweak the idle once every few rides, so I have to remember to check how it's running BEFORE shutting down.
Interesting to read all of these different methods. If somebody smarter than me can come up with the common thread and explain it, that'd be pretty cool.
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I can start mine with my hand. maybe my heavy flywheel makes it easy to start or maybe your silencer is clogged up.
holy crap, js that must be one heck of a stout hand or else something is wrong with your bike. i know my bike is a little low on compression and is due for a top end but theres no way i would even think of attempting to kick it over with my hand. i'd like to see a video of you starting your 500 with just a hand. i'm not saying that i don't believe you, i just think it would be fun to see. MADDOGGY
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I can start mine with my hand. maybe my heavy flywheel makes it easy to start or maybe your silencer is clogged up.
holy crap, js that must be one heck of a stout hand or else something is wrong with your bike. i know my bike is a little low on compression and is due for a top end but theres no way i would even think of attempting to kick it over with my hand. i'd like to see a video of you starting your 500 with just a hand. i'm not saying that i don't believe you, i just think it would be fun to see. MADDOGGY
Yeah! What he said! :-o
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Just to add my .02...
Just bought a 2002 K5 about three weeks ago and coming from a KDX 200, there is a difference in starting these things.
I've found that putting it in gear and rocking it to cycle the piston 5 - 10 times, full choke, and setting the air screw out 1.5 turns works great. First time I did that it started on the first kick.
Oh, another essential - MX boots. I can kick it without fear of breaking things. I've tried this with both hiking boots (decent) and sneakers (bad, bad idea) and the MX boots are now a necessity when starting. Just can't give it the kick it deserves without 'em.
Bob
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I've found that putting it in gear and rocking it to cycle the piston 5 - 10 times
I believe Andr? Malherbe was doing this with his bike whene he cold started it!
Must be good then!!
Dutchie
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why does every forum have a long topic about staring something. its pretty simple it has a kick starter. you kick it. if you don't have enough kick them maybe you need a smaller bike. i have herd it all tilt the bike tell gas comes out crap. find TDC and then kick crap. just kick the darn thing with authority. and remember if you cant start it you cant ride it.
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http://www.myvideo.de/watch/582361
:-D
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why does every forum have a long topic about staring something. its pretty simple it has a kick starter. you kick it. if you don't have enough kick them maybe you need a smaller bike. i have herd it all tilt the bike tell gas comes out crap. find TDC and then kick crap. just kick the darn thing with authority. and remember if you cant start it you cant ride it.
i'll spend 20 seconds prepping and start in 1 or 2 kicks rather than kick and kick and kick and kick and kick, and tire myself out before i even put my helmet on. you go ahead and just kick that thang. DOG
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I cycle the bike through a couple times with the choke on and then start the bike it starts with one or two kicks.
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Before leaving the garage: gas on exhaust plug out. With left foot on driveway curb (the extra height is nice) find compression stroke kick twice with choke if no start once w/o choke, and a touch of throttle. She?ll be running.
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Tuen on the gas a choke it. Put it in first gear. Rock it back and forth, you will feel the piston turning over. Do this for 20-30 seconds. Put it in neutral and give it a stout kick. It will start in one kick.
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What does rocking the bike back and forth do??...Why not just kick it through slowly about 4 times?? that is what the kickstarter for right?? ....km
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this is how i start mine http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u297/ttoks/?action=view¤t=MOV02693.flv (http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u297/ttoks/?action=view¤t=MOV02693.flv)
fuel on, no choke hot or cold, get it just before TDC if it's hot, or get it to TDC cold, then literally jump on the starter, works every time.
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i kikcked my 5 hunny over in jandals once. and i mean once cut the inside of my ankle from sole to the ankle bone. went to get it stitched at hospital. the nurse was horified i told her to double stitch it as i was going riding the nest day. she did and i went riding, bloody sore. but hey a rides a ride.
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^^^ which is why i always put at least my right boot on whenever i start it. Even if im just starting to load it up in the truck, i bruised my foot one to many times.
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The best thing I have found so far to get my 500 started is some race gas. A friend told me to try it, that I'd love it. Sure enough. At least when it's hot it will start on the first kick. When it's cold, the only thing I have found is to choke it, and kick the hell out of it.
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i have a few 500s and i start them
all the same, cold
slow kick through about 4 times with choke on
kick till it goes hard (top dead centre)
then drop kickstarter about an inch past(it will sort of lock in )
bring kickstart to top no throttle
and kick it like you are gunna steal her :-D
works every time 8-) :wink:
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Hi all, I'm new to this site and a new owner of a 1993 KX500 (2 weeks ago). I have read most of the tips on starting this beast and have tried a few, but she still won't start. It was sitting for atleast 1 year if not 2 without being started as per the previous owner. I have taken the carb off, removed jets, cleaned and inspected and all I can get is a pop/bang and a sore foot. Its has good spark and is getting fuel, possibly too much as the plug appears wet after a few kicks. The motor is fresh (3-5 rides) and the rest of the bike has been basically rebuilt. The previous owner bought it, rebuilt it, rode it and got scared, so now I own it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan
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kxdel, if you cleaned all the jets and they are not full of varnish and gum, even an overly rich bike should start. I'm presuming you mixed a fresh batch of fuel, and there isn't fuel that is months old sitting in the float bowl. One possibility is that the crankcase is totally loaded up with fuel, and so the bike is essentially flooded. I'm presuming you checked the choke circuit to make sure it wasn't clogged, and based on your post, I'm guessing it isn't a lack of fuel that is stopping it from starting, it is too much.
If a good kick won't light it, I'd try bump starting it. Either roll it down a hill in second gear and dump the clutch, or have a few loyal friends push you till it starts. Then give it some throttle and see if it smokes like crazy for a while and sounds boggy -- that would be consisted with a flooded bike that hasn't burned off the excess fuel. After that, if you keep fresh gas in it and have a fairly clean plug, it should at least start.
Proper jetting and float bowl height will make things a lot easier after that. One last thought, did you check the tip on the float needle? If it is worn, it will let fuel keep dumping into the float bowl and the bike will feel flooded all the time.
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I'm sure some will cringe at this but......... give her a squirt of starting fluid to at least get it going once. You can at least make sure it runs.
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I have seen rebuilt bikes spin the flywheel on the crank more then once do to the flywheel not being torqued good.You will get a few rides out of it and then the flywheel spins, usually when you are trying to start it for some reason. Just a thought. Have you checked for compression :? if a kx500 will not start there is something wrong. I myself am not a fan of bump starting, It should start on its own inside of three kicks.
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Del,
This may be a longshot, but I have a friend who went through everything on his '99 Kx5 much the same as you are.
Jetting,float height, spark,kill switch, fuel. and the dern thing would just pop,pop pop...
He Bought all new ignition parts on e-bay and when he went to replace them he noticed the
woodruff key on the flywheel broke and every once in a while the bike would fire close enough to pop but wouldn't run.
Like I said it may be a longshot.
A fellow in the 250 threads had a similar problem with his flywheel/magneto going out. He ended up re-building the whole engine, the only thing left to replace was the flywheel. Replaced it and she lit right up.
I'm not for sure this will work, however it may relieve some of the pressure 'till you get the starting issue figured out.
A few of the serious engine guys here came up with a modified bolt for the KIPS Valve.
Long story short, I'm thinking if you unscrew the KIPS bolt and put a few washers on it it should allow your exhaust valve to over-rotate and "Leak" some compression out the exhaust valve.
I know what it's like to have 2stroke 500 foot. I ruined a brand new pair of a-star 6's in two days when I got my CR5. I probably could have destroyed it in one, but I was too out of shape.
Best of Luck,
Tuck\o/ EDIT BDI posted above as I was trying to send my reply..... maybe there's something to it :wink:
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Checking the flywheel is a good start. I work on other two cycle engines and the symptoms also sound like low compression or an air leak. If you can, it is always good to pressure check a two cycle engine. If you check the compression for a stock kx500, it should be around 164psi; and figure 130-145 for mid-life, and less than 130psi I would freshen the top end back up.
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Reeds been inspected? Timing mark? Be sure no mouse nest in pipe, wasp nest, anything. Whats the air filter look like? Fresh fuel right? It pours from petcock freely? I like clear fuel lines.
Also try with slide open 1/4 to 1/2 way, maybe all they way open if you think its gettin that much.
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Yes it has fresh fuel, carb was off tonight and hot tanked, reeds were inspected and it's being kicked like I stole it, but still no start. I pulled the cover off and inspected the flywheel (it seems tight) but i can't see the timing marks. Does the flywheel need to come off first? As for the key, I'm not sure. I got a hold of a friend of mine about a puller and he has 1 that I can borrow. It does seem more and more like timing to me so hopefully I can remedy that or rule that out tomorrow. I haven't looked in the pipe or checked compression as of yet. Maybe I should just disassemble the whole thing and start all over. I greatly appreciate all of the input so keep it coming and hopefully someday before the snow flies, I can get a good ride in. Thanks again, Dan
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The flywheel can spin and sheer the key and still seem tight. Make sure you use the right puller that screws in the center of the fly wheel. If you use a claw puller you can and will ruin the flywheel by either bending it or streching the rivits that attach the flywheel hub to the flywheel. P.S. the puller has left handed threads.
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IT'S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE, IT'S FINALLY ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After about 80 miles of driving today locating tools and parts, the beast started. It was a sheared flywheel key after all. I bought 3 keys from 1 bike shop and a puller from another 40 miles east. I had 5 different bike shops on the phone and visited 3 before I was done. So a maiden voyage around the house at 35? and raining and twice down the street all in the dark was enough for me. This bike is going to be a handful, but I'm up for the challenge. It only took a couple of 250 like kicks and then 1 500 kick all with the choke off before it started. So hopefully no more sore foot and mass quantities of profanity trying to get it started. I am greatful for all of the input so keep up the good work. Thanks, Dan
p.s. if anyone needs a flywheel puller just let me know.
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It's a good fealing isn't it. That flywheel puller fits so many bikes It's not even funny. I bought mine when I was 14, That was twenty years ago and I still use it all the time. I hope you torqed it to spec and put some thread lock on the nut they can come loose and destroy the crank.
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It's torqued to spec but no threadlock. Should I use red or blue? There didn't seem to be any on it when it came apart, but I can put some on now. While I was out today I also bought a new bike stand that gets the bike up about 3 feet high and makes it a whole lot easier to work on. It gets rather old sitting on the garage floor or laying on my side to work on these things. Sitting in a kitchen chair and looking eye to eye with the crankshaft is a wonderful thing. :-D
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If it's torqued to spec you should be fine. I put thread lock out of paranoia :| a drop of red is cheap insurance but probably overkill.
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I am considering putting threadlock on the bolts that hold the body work on. When i got the bike a bolt on the side panel was missing and the other was loose. So maybe a little dab of blue just to be sure. :?
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Glad to hear things worked out.
Snoop around on the thread in the 500 forum for KIPS mod. , drop Stewart an email and order up a Top Secret Decoder Kxriders KIPS Bolt. :wink:
(As an Aside on the flywheel)
Before, you button things up you might grab some valve lapping compound and lap the flywheel to the crank.
Spin it about a few minutes and look for high spots. (tip from Eric Gorr's book) My friend who also had the key break lapped his three years ago and its still good to go. I don't know if this kept it from breaking again, but when he lapped it in he was surprised to actually see the High/low spots.
Take Care,
Tuck \o/
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Don't use threadlock for plastic mounts. Bolts are cheap, but if you have a bolt spin a mount, it screws up all sorts of stuff. Gas tank, radiator shroud to radiator and rear fender bolts thru air box all have deals that I call "body nuts", but no doubt are called something else. Spin a mount in a gas tank, and its time for brand new cuss words. (and a tank) 500's do need lock tite. Mine seems to fling the bolts on a regular basis. The trick is to use it in the right places, Also take note when bolts are hard to withdraw because they are already loaded with it. Double doses may cause the bolt to seize and break.
Congrats on getting it running...
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I must agree, I have adopted a new theory on non critical bolts. I would much rather buy a new bolt then have to fix or buy a new part that is striped out. I also keep spare bolts in my riding box and some in my toolbag that I carry. There are some things I would rather thread lock the s**t out of, my flywheel nut is one of them. Never put thread lock on a machine screw unless you never plan on taking it apart again if it is steel or titainium into aluminum use antiseez if it goes into a non critical part like plastics you may try teflon tape but to be honest I dont have a problem with lost fastners on my 500.
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Once again thanks for the input. I like the teflon tape idea as opposed to locktite. I guess I'll just buy a handful of bolts and keep them in my toolbox for the ones that get away. Thanks again.
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The technique that has work for me for years on all my big bore 2 strokes is, (this is assuming that it is cold) Turn the gas and choke on, next lean the bike over till gas comes out the over flow tube on the carb, then give one slow kick through with no throttle. Then with the kick starter all the way up at the top kick the hell out of it! I have never met a big bore 2 stroke that will start with a wimpy kick. Maybe with the compression release system you could get away with it, but not a KX5. When it is hot I usually just crack the throttle just a touch as I am kicking it. The problem I still have is when it has cooled down for an hour or two and I some times beats me to death before I get it restarted!
Alan :-D
Sorry for the "post mining", but I tried this method today on my KX5, and it was a first time shot! Will use it again to start when cold.
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The technique that has work for me for years on all my big bore 2 strokes is, (this is assuming that it is cold) Turn the gas and choke on, next lean the bike over till gas comes out the over flow tube on the carb, then give one slow kick through with no throttle. Then with the kick starter all the way up at the top kick the hell out of it! I have never met a big bore 2 stroke that will start with a wimpy kick. Maybe with the compression release system you could get away with it, but not a KX5. When it is hot I usually just crack the throttle just a touch as I am kicking it. The problem I still have is when it has cooled down for an hour or two and I some times beats me to death before I get it restarted!
Alan :-D
Sorry for the "post mining", but I tried this method today on my KX5, and it was a first time shot! Will use it again to start when cold.
i do every thing but lean the bike over. i will try this today. i had to learn to kick my '01 by myself,the last owner could not start it(hehehe). i found out that it has to be tdc and kick it like ur mad at it :-D
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I have really tried to be easy on kicking the beast. The lean over, run through the kicker a couple times and then kick it like a dog works, but I worry I will break the kicker some day.
Is this a legitimate concern?
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I've always used the lean over, gas on, choke on, gas out the overflow tubes and jump on the kickstarter, and I haven't broken a kickstarter on either of my KX500's (1985 and 2000). And they started. I can't imagine the engineers wouldn't design the bike knowing it took a really strong kick to turn over a big bore.
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ooooooooooooooh you will break one so plan ahead and buy an extra one or two .
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To Start mine, Cold: Choke on, 2 twists of throttle, full kick from the top of the stroke, fires right up.
Hot: a little twist of the throttle held while giving it a full kick from the top of the stroke, fires first kick.
In both cases..Did I say kick it from the top of the stroke?
Cheers!
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im with alan turn fuel on then choke, lean her over till fuel pisses out over flow. atand her up click the kick starter till piston top dead center.get the kick starter on the comp stroke and give a solid kick and possibly blip the throttle and thats all she wrote
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with the bike in 2nd gear roll back and forth , priming the engine, choke first kick start from TDC
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just coming from a noob but this is the best way for me.
First don't skimp on the 2 cycle oil or gas. Get high quality of both and save yourself and your energy.
Ok the next for me was to lightly push the kick start to get the engine on the compression stroke. Then allow the kick start to come up 1 click from horizontal. That seems to allow the kick to spin the motor just enough to fire but still allows me to not feel akward trying to kick it. Other than that Start with Choke on and I normally tweek the throttle a bit for the first 2 kicks then the 3rd kick normally starts up on cold. Hot normally starts one kick.
I think that's about it from my experience.
Other tid bits of worthless knowledge that I have found for any motor is to remove the spark plug and torch the end to heat it up. Then put it back in and violla. It's starts like it's a hot start. It's a last ditch effort but wow that has saved me a few times with the snowblower, lawnmower, etc.
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I think some of you guys might get a "kick" out of this video, especially the guys stressing to wear proper boots, and not just running shoes :evil: Nothing but socks!
(http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/snoopjonnyjon/th_PB110109.jpg) (http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/snoopjonnyjon/?action=view¤t=PB110109.flv)
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I learned a trick from a friend which involves taking 1 of the air tubes and blowing into it. within a couple of kicks it should start
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To Start mine, Cold: Choke on, 2 twists of throttle, full kick from the top of the stroke, fires right up.
Hot: a little twist of the throttle held while giving it a full kick from the top of the stroke, fires first kick.
In both cases..Did I say kick it from the top of the stroke?
Cheers!
Not to be a d*ck, but twisting the throttle on a bike that isn't running will do absolutely nothing. It's a vacuum system and it needs to be running for any fuel to be sucked/pumped into the carburetor.
Just sayin'....
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I used to lay it on it's side and give a lord loving kick. But, now that I my jetting is on par, it fires up pretty much after one slow kick and one big kick. With the choke of course.
A few slow kicks then a hammer kick seems to fire it everytime for everybody I know. Good luck. If you don't mind a sleeve, check out the ebay company that sells the compression release kit for the big K.
this is always a good way to burn up some grass in your buddys yard and say sorry bout that then make sure your wearing a GOOD BOOT or else you may be replacing your shoes
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86 says gas on,choke on if weather is cold,off if weather is warm,(cold engine)1 slow kick to prime, then stab at kicker from 1 third down the stroke,not from top,but kick it like you mean it.never fails, instant ring ding ding pop bang. :-D
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Cold: Fuel on, choke on, Lean the bike far right for about 3 to 4 seconds but no need for fuel dribble, give her 1 to 3 hard boots and BAM! She's running. Hot: just 1 kick no throttle. I think propper jetting is the key.
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being the 86 K5 is my first big bore i'm starting it quite well,first gas on pull choke on,give it a couple of slow prime kicks with throttle open then get it on its compression stroke and then one hard fast as possible kick all the way through to the footpeg and usually fires first or second time!!
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being the 86 K5 is my first big bore i'm starting it quite well,first gas on pull choke on,give it a couple of slow prime kicks with throttle open then get it on its compression stroke and then one hard fast as possible kick all the way through to the footpeg and usually fires first or second time!!
If your going to give it a couple of "prime kicks" don't open the throttle that will NOT allow the choke to work, the throttle must be closed for the choke to work.
For me, back before the compression release, I would pull the choke, click it in second gear, rock it back and forth, and one swift kick and it was running.
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[/quote]
Not to be a d*ck, but twisting the throttle on a bike that isn't running will do absolutely nothing. It's a vacuum system and it needs to be running for any fuel to be sucked/pumped into the carburetor.
Just sayin'....
[/quote]
i call B.S. on that one. i understand what you're thinking though. my bike absolutely will not fire if you don't crack the throttle just a touch
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me too maddoggy, just a touch of throttle.
I think I`m off on the pilot a size. :roll:
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I use a method that was picked up from this forum that requires fuel on , hook 2nd, and rock backwards then foward a few times to turn the motor over a little. Then get the kickstart lever biting at the very top of its stroke. Boot it like you mean it all the way to the footpeg. Have had great succsess with this method. Very seldom does it require a second atempt.
BINGO! This IS the best/easiest way to do it! I have to kick twice maybe only once in 20 tries and that's due to my being lazy/tired or slipping off.
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I use a method that was picked up from this forum that requires fuel on , hook 2nd, and rock backwards then foward a few times to turn the motor over a little. Then get the kickstart lever biting at the very top of its stroke. Boot it like you mean it all the way to the footpeg. Have had great succsess with this method. Very seldom does it require a second atempt.
BINGO! This IS the best/easiest way to do it! I have to kick twice maybe only once in 20 tries and that's due to my being lazy/tired or slipping off.
Works great for me too. I am going to give the leaning it over method a try.
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Here's a trick that was posted earlier in this thread that some of you might have missed.
A neat trick to get a KX500 started with WAY less kicks in the colder temps, or when your 5 has not been started in a few months is to lean the bike over hard left until you see some raw fuel exit the carb overflow vent line. Choke on, and the bike should lite off with a few kicks. This method adds a slight amount of raw fuel into the carb venturi for easier starting.
Rich
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I've never had any problems kicking over 500,s.Only bike i ever done 'a routine' with was my cr500,s.The 83 KX500 i have you just switch on the gas,choke on and kick,lights right up every time!Oh,and being 6ft 3 inch tall helps! :-D
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All those things but the main thing on a 2stroke is getting the piston just past the compression at top dead then kick it for all you're worth, 4stroke is the opposite bring the piston to just before compression then kick.
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I have a 99 green machine. I turn the gas on, never use choke, put it right on tdc and hooff that s.o.b and she fires like a ww2 cannon.
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I like to pretend I can`t get her goin so my buddy will try it for me.
He`s a 250 rider and I love ta see him struggle
:evil:
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Cheers, Yeah I know what you mean about wearing boots,when i got my bike i took the mrs out to show off to her,i had had it out the day before and it run sweet,but the next day with the mrs it would not fire it did once but i took the joke off to quick,i was determined to get the beast going,i kicked and kicked proberly at least 50 times clad in only some cheap gumboots the raised part of the sole would not stay on the kick start so there was only a very thin layer of rubber between my foot and the kickstart,the day ended with my right foot in the cold river looking over my shoulder at the clean K5 sitting on ther trailer and a very bored looking mrs sitting in the car,lolol ( pain i will not forget :cry: )
That's quite a common thing,none of my bikes will kick over with the Mrs watching! :lol:
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I like to pretend I can`t get her goin so my buddy will try it for me.
He`s a 250 rider and I love ta see him struggle
:evil:
Hahahaha. classic. I just did that too. Funny stuff.
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I just get my wife to start it for me. She can do it too!
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I'm sure some will cringe at this but......... give her a squirt of starting fluid to at least get it going once. You can at least make sure it runs.
+ 1 :-o :evil:
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6'5 280lbs.... 3 kick starters later... no technique i just kick really hard :-D :-D
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6'5 280lbs.... 3 kick starters later... no technique i just kick really hard :-D :-D
5'9 140lbs.... a half dozen kick levers over 15 or so years...no technique I just kick really hard also :-D
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You guys realize we're all saying the same thing, right?
Load the carb and bottom end with some fuel, and kick hard from TDC, or just past it.
Rocking back and forth, and leaning over/prime kicks do the exact same thing.
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I just sit on mine and make "vroom vroom" noises til I'm tired. :-P
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Just wanted to say that this thread saved my bacon last weekend. New to owning a k5, was nervous going to the dunes not having really riden the bike before. Read this entire thread before leaving and it saved me by the second day. The first day, cold start, followed the procedure, fired up first kick. But new to riding the beast I stalled out a couple times, loading the cyclinder and she played me out good a couple times. Used to wear a Garne trials boot, and actually bruised the bottom of my foot and had to buy new boots at Rexburg Motorsports after day one. By Mid second day I had it figured out. Cold as per procedure. Warm, find TDC, crack throttle and kick like you mean it, starts first or second try. I found it very particular on how you shut down as to how easy to start. Come to stop, rev up and shut er off to clear cylinder, easy to start as per procedure. Stalling out, not so easy to start. Sometimes had to shut off gas and hold throttle wide open and kick hard at tdc a few times to clear up. In that case, usually started 3rd or 4th kick on TDC.
Anyways, thanks for the input, was what I needed to start to get "the knack" of starting the Beast! :-)
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Put on a Compression release and relax when starting :-D
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This technique has worked for me like a charm. Even worked when my bike was in storage for two years (no maintenance), started up on the third kick! Gas on, choke on, kicker all the way up, throttle completely closed. Kick down very slowly, at around half way you will feel a "click" for lack of a better term. Once you feel it "click", take the kicker back up all the way and jump on it like you mean it! I have started many big-bore two strokes very successfully with this technique!
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all i ever do is pill the choke up turn the fuel on ,ir visa versa. normally as long as i get a full from the top (push the kicker until its pressure is tight all the way to the top). then kick like she deserves it. i dont think i even turn the throttle. maybe slightly. once she starts i reach diwn and turn off the choke .then once i can feel the pipe getting warm i start giving her some slow revs. sometimes it makes it easier to have something to lean up against on the left side of the bike so you can really stand into the kick all the way.i hear a lot of comments about how much leg it takes to start a k5 or dont try it with your tennis shoes on. honestly ,the k5 has been the least kick to start bike ive ever owned. if i remove the carb the first start afterward can take maybe three kicks to go. otherwise i cant remember having to kick mire than once to fire.hope this helps
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can anyone explain to me WHY this is working? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FamfgXMW9Mc
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just a different way of priming it....a little outa the way(longer), I'll stick with my three 1/4 kicks, then one full one.
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they seemed to kick fairly easy for starting them in tennis shoes :roll:
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I lean my 91' on my hip let fuel flow out of the overflow of the carb, put it in 2nd gear rock it back and fourth a few times, choke it and kick it. 2nd kick everytime :-D
Brandon
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I found this on a site about a Lambretta with a KX500 engine.
I know what you mean, starting a KX 500 is a real pain in the ass for sure. So I have addressed this by fitting a small manual de-compressor. I won't take all the credit for the idea, I stole the idea from the KX riders forum. They do a little mod where they weld a small boss to the head and drill a 2mm hole into the combustion chamber. The de-compessor is off a large chainsaw. They fit them to large chainsaws to prevent pull cords snapping. You simply push it in and start the engine, when the engine starts the de-compressor snaps shut.
Hi guys, the de-compessor was off E-bay, less than £10 deliverd. It has a M10x 1.0 thread on it which is a standard thread for brake parts like banjos etc. I had a tap anyway. Snapping kickstarts is another reason to fit one. A kickstart for this engine is £90 + vat form Kawasaki.